You would think that it's easy to do and it is, if you install the hinge at the right time in your restoration. Otherwise you will have to remove a lot of stuff from your dash just to be able to access the inner nuts.
It’s really special how American motors assembled all external body parts ( roll bar , windshield hinges , battery tray , dash panel , front fenders. Tail lights , front grille and other parts ) and all of the mating surfaces were prone to rust . Only the galvanizing process of the sheet metal would have prevented rust for as long as it would have . Depending on what climate and weather conditions , your mileage may vary . Weld through primer , as annoying as it is to weld through , and anti corrosive treatment , POR15 and the like , seam sealer , top coats and undercoating is all we can do . After that , a pressure wash and a garage is all we can do to preserve our Jeep . You pointed out something that more people should know ; there is a nut with the star washer built onto it on the inside of the cowl on each torx screw . If we would just take a moment to loosen , and some penetrating oil , we would prevent stripping the hex screws or snapping them , if we do . There is no reason to ruin these screws if we just take care to remove them properly . Good tip on reassembly also . If the dash panel is off , access is so much easier than reaching under the dash . Reassembly in the proper order is very helpful .
Thanks for all your details and reasons behind your details! Hope you give more videos on wiring,like gages ,fuse block,blinker assembly etc. etc. looking forward for more cool guy videos!
After market hinges are ass nothin fits. Idk what md jaun sends here to the us but i bought and shipped some straight from the phillipenes, to here. Hinges were un usable right shape but part of the hinge was too long so doors wouldnt close. Windsheild frame wasnt much better and didnt have defrost holes. Granted maybe the ones for the Filipino market suck cause they all have no doors or soft tops or custom made hard tops down there, but still really crappy. Also they dont need defrost down there. Anyhow we toured the factory and they had a Library of oem jeep bodys they can refer to, which im sure they never go back to look at its just all for show and to sucker tourists like me who happen to be into jeeps. The frames were cheap, getting them over here was not, but i went ahead and had some rear hatches made of stainless steel by a local shop down there and sent em over here. Still havent gotten around to installing them cause the curve in the glass is different but i think i can grind and weld to make it fit. Plus my rear latch is on its way out. Any how enough brain dead tired midnight rant for me i should get to bed. My hardtops still doesnt line uo with the frame so i can put the self tapping screws in it. Added foam to seal the doors and re ajusted.
@@chickensfloat7427 Sounds about right. Sorry about the misfortunes with alignment. Funny that AMC was as poor as they were and the aftermarket industry has managed to make things worse.
@@coolguy_CJ7 Now l am going to have to remove them to paint my Jeep in who knows when I also need to replace the dash panel, so I'll work something out!
I am restoring an 83 CJ5. Found your channel and I am going through all your videos. Thank you for doing all this videos. Interesting though mine used to be white and I am planning on a dessert sand. I still haven't decided if I am going conventional paint or rhino lining.
@@coolguy_CJ7 True. But, I have no intention to sell it at all, ever. I still have not painted the body. Your advise is very appreciated. I shop for parts at Morris 4X4. Do you have a place with a wide selection of jeep parts?
Morris 4X4, Quadratec for CJ specific parts. Rock Auto for replacement/maintenance items. If I need OEM or NOS, I reach out to Ray Moulton at Dead Jeep. He really is incredible.
I was thinking of running a bead of it across the upper lip of the lower hinge plate to do exactly that. Good idea. IIRC AMC did put a small line of seam sealer on the inside of the hinge before they applied it, but what it wound up doing is was keeping the water from draining out and just sit between 2 sheets of untreated metal.
I was fortunate enough to find an original, no rib frame with glass with a parts CJ7 that I bought a few years back. It was super clean with no rust. I replaced the gasket and cowl seal, but everything else is OEM and accurate to the year. After 81, they made the window frames with a single rib right above the cowl seal. Have no idea what Chrysler did when they bought the brand. Maybe the double ribbed ones were indicative of the YJs.
Getting them out of the windshield frame can be hard. Heat, patience, and a good penetrating solution or phosphoric acid sometimes is the only way. The body part of the hinge is a lot easier if you remove the daah first and go in from the back of the cowl. Took me 2 restorations to figure that out.
@@coolguy_CJ7 ….thank you sir…..I have been working around it but the windshield frame is the only rust I have and it must be replaced…im going to have did in, not their brightest idea, same with the tailgate.
