Hi all - this video has been "remastered" and the music track removed! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7BMsep-i3MU.html Our early videos had background music, guess I thought it had to be like TV. I learned, and read feedback in comments, so I am slowly working to rework these and cut out the music while retaining the chat. This one is done and at the link above!
And if you don't tighten the lug nuts, but leave a bit of slack so that the rotor can slide along the studs, you don't need to hammer the rotor - you can grab it by the edge and use it like a slide hammer to pop the axle out.
Just a thanks for that. Had a hub that I used your method on today ...NOTHING else would grab it because no lug nuts, just an internally threaded hub.. except the rotor itself of course w/no room for a hammer@@dunebasher1971
This is about the easiest video to watch and learn from. Great job. I'm waiting for a new axle to arrive. The old one had a grooved seal surface that was causing oil leakage. You are the only person I've heard to say to stop pressing the bearing/retainer on when it bottoms out.
Regarding bearing install, have you ever considered using a crock pot with differential oil, place all the interference fitting parts in the oil, heat to 285°F, then slide in place (in the correct sequence) and let it cool? I've done it on large equipment successfully multiple times (the old fashion way). The heating of steel will typically make the steel grow by 0.006"/100°F. Since an interference fit is ~0.0015 - 0.002" smaller than the shaft diameter, the heated growth should allow for everything to slip on easily, seat in place then lock onto the shaft once cooled off. Also, the oil will be retained in the bearing! BTW, make sure you use PPE (silicone mittens) to protect your hands from the heat. Nice video...
I have to tell you, I've watched TONS of videos, and scoured every forum. YOU were the ONLY person to handle the issue I had! The retainer plate DOESN'T come flush with the flange by default. That's why EVERY video people post shows them trying to remove the outer wheel bearing race upon removal. Well, it was helpful to see someone FINALLY using a mallet. If you haven't done this, and it's your first rear axle DANA 44 on a 1999-05, you wouldn't know that. Not even the service manual mentions it when discussing the Rear Axle 226RBA. THANK YOU!
Killer music in back ground! Thank you for showing the new baring orientation on the axle. I needed to be sure before I press on. This video is the only place to find that image. Thanks again very helpful.
Great video! I like how ya showed using a drill to cut the locking collar. And wow man completely different steel the inner race is made of, we used a Dremel and a cut-off wheel to make a nice cut in it then one good lick with ye 'ol cold chisel and the big ball peen hammer. We have a HARBOR FREIGHT 20 TON PRESS that has once again paid for itself. We also have a bench top drill press makes things easier 1/4" high speed bit. Thanks again. We is my 12 year old son and I. We did the procedure in the driveway and on our outside work bench. We used all Spicer and Timken parts. Denny's Drive Shafts in Kenmore, New York will help ya get squared away with WJ and other driveline components. Brand new Made in The USA Spicer bearing retainers were $8.95 a piece. Fed-Ex sucks spring for UPS shipping my parts sat at the Fedex station 40 miles away for 4 days.
Just found a stream of gear oil coming off the axle housing on the back of the right rear wheel on my '02 WJ. Thanks for putting this video together, it's gonna be a great help!
Thank you for the backwards brake rotor trick!! I have this job coming up on my WJ probably next week and although I have decent selection of tools, I never bothered to buy a proper slide hammer, always gotten around it somehow. I thought I have to get it this time, but since my rear rotors are shot anyways, I don't think I will. Thanks to lockdown, best places to get tools are closed and I don't intend to pay double to a shop I don't know well.
I got here after the music was reduced. Great video and unlike most of the others Really appreciate you describing the individual parts. Even though I have decades of experience it is good to see the process before I try it myself and your video shows exactly where everything is in relation to everything else. Also like the video of the press. lots of video skip this step.
I actually am doing this job tmro, I got to the point Whr I have the axle out now zi need to cut the bearing and retainer off and press them back on. this video is excellent and in detail of what i will need to do. great job on the video. best how to video yet!
Nice vid. Had the same issue with two studs on axle retainer plate last time I did mine. Also crown. Pulling one side apart to replace seal. Your post is nice refresher. Same press in my shop ..
Great video young man. You helped me a lot. I'm not new to some of this but this jeep is a different animal for me PLUS you thought me some new tricks!!Thanks a bunch and keep up the good work.
thanks. just got an abused 99 Laredo. had this bad real howl. Guy was saying possibly bearing. Well, no play at all, bearing is good. Noticed both sides back plate was really oily and goopy. no line leak. Hmmm. checked e brake like and R/S cable was not attached in the yoke. no brake at all. took it all apart and found that the pads are shot to hell, froze actually. They sprayed oil up there to loosen and lessen the noise. Cleaned, replaced. Noise gone and e brake works now.
that retainer is actually serving as a retainer and pilot so when u bolt on axle it fits just right in the axle tube. do both axles the same time if u dont see any axle oil come out as the oil is supposed to be high enough to get down the tubes to lube the bearings .
big ass dude The capacity values for fluid can be found here www.wjjeeps.com/service/maintenance_wj.htm note that the fluid does flow down the axle tubes but mainly at speed when the fluid flows up as the gears spin. at rest the capacity level is lower so there's not much in the tubes per se. and yes def agree if doing one side it is good to do the other!
I have a 96 ZJ 5.2 so it has the 44A and I just did the parking brake shoes and also the 2 piece levers as they were rusted together thus no parking brake, also replaced the adjuster rod and equalizer now parking brake actually works--I have a BTF rear diff cover on my 44A, looks coolCHINA junk knurls
I am trying to install the actuator at the top , a bit to the right which attaches to the brake cable coming into the back plate. It does not get uninstalled like other Parking brake parts in your video. . Of course both of mine are not attached and I tried many ways to install. Tough to test! Help!! I am sure it will be easy. Even my Jeep Dealer hasn't seen this before, LOL. Jeep is on Jack Stands until I can figure this out. Thank you very much Great VIDEO!!!!
Great info. I'd prefer to not have the music overlay 'cause it's harder to hear the voice. Otherwise a super video. I'm doing this job now and had one outer bearing race come out easily but the other is stuck tight. Going to try to lower the temperature of the race and see if it shrinks enough to loosen up.
I'm sory for that bolt at the end I wished you mentioned what brand the bearing assembly was because its metal looks soft since that bolt was off the plate...people should know that company who made it...thank you for the video...😉
I don't have them handy unfortunately, however, if you do a google search for "WJ Service Manual PDF" there is a PDF that has been floating around several sites you can download to your phone or PC and it has everything needed to support the work including all torque specs from the factory.
any pics or video of the hooking up of the brakes? the jeep I have is missing the entire parking brake. the cable is there, have a brake kit but no mechanism. searching for that part that fits on that metal tab that the pads slide into and that has a lever for the cable to hook to. I found one but with out a picture there is not much out there except drawn parts diagrams that show an arrow pointing to a part. might have to go to a pick and pull and see if I can find a jeep that has it on there. Getting my parts today so am doing both bearings. will cost 40 per bearing, 15 if I cut the bearings off myself. great video showing how to do it
And now you know grasshopper. NEVER put a retaining plate back in whether new or reusing the old without tacking the heads of the studs. I learned the hard way about 6 WJ's ago that little trick.
Thank you so much!! I know it is harder work with filming!! i also wondered about the C-clip. I have a 2004 grand cherokee special addition; if a C-clip is present, then there would be no bolt on retaining plate? Thanks again, GREAT FILMING ( I personally could do without the music tho, at times it was louder than your voice), great instruction, and thankfully no profanity so I did not be aware if my kids could hear you or not. Thanks again!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it! In our later videos, we learned and don't have the music anymore :) Regarding your question - you are correct, a C-Clip style axle would not have the bolt on retainer like these. In those, you have to remove the Diff cover, push the axle in, and remove the c-clip from the diff. Luckily on these WJ Jeeps and similar Dana 44/35 axles in other Jeeps, there are no c-clips so axle removal can be done without touching the diff cover. Thanks again!
Thank you for the info! One more question, I am at the point of getting the left rear axle out, I noticed you are able to rotate the hub. I cannot. Do you have the car in neutral? I have wacked on the inverted rotor quite a bit, but no budging yet. Is this because I cannot rotate the hub? Thanks!
M Sach yeah I think I had the transfer case in neutral. I found rotating it made it easier to hit it around different spots. it can really take a lot of hitting hard to get it to come loose. seen some that really need some heavy hitting to free it from the hub face...
OK thanks! Got it out and all bearings are off now. I did notice a nick where the retaining ring was, I am almost sure that was not done by me ( due to its position vs where I was cutting) , but what is the consequence of this being present? - I know it is not a good thing, but how bad is it? THank you again for your time.
M Sach if it's small and the retaining ring is tight and does it's job Id probably not worry much. honestly I'm not sure if it would cause a major issue or not. hope that helps a bit!
@@bladerunner2434 There was a squeaking noise coming from the right side. When making hair pin left turns you could hear loud grinding noise from the left. I just replaced the bearings yesterday and all is well now.
Hi, Great video. I followed it to replace the bearing on my 2002 WJ. After replacing the bearing on the axle, I am getting little in and out movement in the axle which causing the rotor to grind against the caliper bracket. Does it mean the bearing was not pressed all the way? Thanks in advance for your help
Hi vortex garage, here in uk I have a 2003 wj grand cherokee, 2.7 turbo diesel, (Mercedes engine) gonna be doing this job myself after watching your great video. Question, what is the tonnage of your Press? Got my eye on a 20 ton press for my own use. Would this be OK to do the job or do need a more powerful press? If that's the case I will take them to an engineers to have them pressed. Press over 20 tons get very expensive.
It appears the 98 ZJ 5.9 uses a Dana 44, so the setup should be very similar. The axle bearing/seal procedure should be nearly the same. The parking brake, rotor and brake calipers may be different, and there could be minor axle differences between '98 and this '04 but this procedure as I understand is pretty much the same on Dana 35 and 44 series axles.
Hello Vortex, thanks for the nice video I want to change the bearing and seal of the rear Axle of my jeep and I have a question please. The seal need Silicone RTV Silicone Gasket Maker to place it? Regards
M Ba if only doing the outer bearings then no RTV is needed. if you are resealing the center differential cover in the middle then yes you will want to use gear oil rated RTV, it's the grey one from Permatex. if only the outer seals, those come in the bearing kit we used in the video are do not need RTV
great video.i have a question.i replaced rear bearing in a 2008 jeep yj ,D44, but have some play when wiggling wheel up and down. Not leaking yet, but should there be any slack in it at all. it did it before replacing bearings on both rear wheels.thats why i replaced them,but still have same issue.please help! any help is appreciated very much.
Todd Shoemaker if you're just doing the parking brake no need to do the bearings. in fact you can probably get tje brakes done without removing the axles. in my case I was doing the bearings as maintenance and found the parking brake pads were needing replacement
have you had any problem with your shocks being upside down. I have similar shocks and the boots are rubbing the sway bar bolts but bilstein didn't recommend me mounting them upside down
Check Quadratec - look at item 20 on this link: www.quadratec.com/jeep-replacement-parts/grand-cherokee-wj/wj-dana-44-rear.php It looks like these have the bearing retainer in the pic so they must be an assembled part. May still want to call Quadratec to be sure. Other vendors may also have these. They aren't very cheap. Note different part number for D44a if you have the standard/lsd vs. the quadradrive varilok.
My '02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L has no bolts on the inside retainer plate on passenger side rear wheel! Mine looks like it has some sort of rivets. What do you suggest I do?
Hey what ton press do i need? I was thinking about getting a cheap 12 ton. I want to say that should be more than enough to do this job but i just want to be 100%.
That toggle..you call the brake mechanism.. those are notorious for being rusted and inoperable... with all the trouble it is to replace those...spend the extra few bucks and get new ones! and the rubber boot that is behind the lever.... while your there any way!
Wait, so the grinding noise could just be from the parking brake and rotor housing?!? I feel a slight click/clunk tho too when initially moving from a dead stop. Anybody by chance have a suggestion?
If the jeep has sat for a bit, most of the fluid in the axle tubes will drain into center section of the diff. There's no real amount of fluid in the tubes at rest. As a result, you should not really lose any, so I didn't need to top off.
i have a 1996 jeep cherokee xj does the dana 35 rear end suppose to have thrust washers behind the spider gears or can i run it without them mine didnt have any when i pulled it out while replacing rear axle bearing and seals
I need some help! I did this job on my Jeep twice and leaks back again, first I use cheap stuffs so i said let’s get a good seals and leaks again any advice my Jeep has more than 250,000 miles on it
The only thing I can think is that the actual axle has a wear spot where the seal goes preventing a good seal due to it's mileage or something is warped in the axle tube.
vortex I have a noise I think is coming out of the differential .Any idea how to diagnose it? noise after a replace the bearings is less so that's why I think it's coming off the differential. axel was leaking oil that's why I replaced it .
Hello, I have a 03 Jeep Grand Cherokee I installed new shafts bearings and seals on both sides, both were pressed on. The problem is that they are leaking again. what do you think i did wrong? Also one shaft is longer than the other could that have been the issue if i put them back on the wrong sides?!
