Thanks for this video, it helped me out alot when my son and I changed out a rocker arm and Intake cam due to "ticking" problem allowed to go too long, in a 2015 Jeep Wrangler. My only addition is, removing the fenderflare and wheel-well liner (as a single assembly) allows the best access to the back and side of the valve cover for easier PCV valve removal. Don’t worry about the battery tray (too much work dealing with relay box, IMHO). Second, remove the transmission dipstick and then loosen the transmission dipstick tube (two bolts (upper and lower, the upper is easy with wheelwell liner removed) and move the trans. dipstick out of the way. That makes the PCV valve easy, easy.! If cam replacement is necessary.....heres what to do. Do your research homework first, then.... The timing chain and phaser sprockets need to be removed, but no special tools are really needed for timing chanin tension release. That said, the special tools are inexpensive on Amazon and I recommend getting them as a set. Find TDC exhaust stroke #1 (or #4). Cam sprocket *arrows* align on left bank and cam sprocket *lines* align on right bank. Mark the chain and sprockets. For bank 1, Wedge a thick flat blade screwdriver between the 2 sprocket's teeth HOLD CAM ON CAMSHAFT HEX CASTING WITH A WRENCH and loosen phaser sprocket bolts with 36mm socket. (its tight, 110 ft.lbs) slide phaser/chain back a little off cam use a long thin (18'') screw driver to lever the tensioner and releave chain tension to slip chain and sprockets back on, and wiggle rotate the camshaft a little to engage the phaser sprocket and slip it back on. Its easy it you understand what your doing, and my point is, no special tools required for tension release on bank 1. Bank 2 is the same process, but requires a couple bent coat hanger pieces to release and then hold tensioner mechanism. (explained in other online videos.)
I have to disagree with one of the comments about removing the battery tray. I watched another video of someone doing this same thing. They had me jacking up the Jeep, removing the tire, removing the wheel well liner, and I still couldn't reach the back bolts. Luckily, before following the other video, I happened to watch just a little bit of this one, and I remembered him mentioning removing the tray. After cussing and bitching about the rear bolts, I took out the battery tray, and the whole thing opened up!!!!! That was the single most important tip in the video IMO.... Also, without removing the battery tray, it is almost impossible to remove the valve cover...
Just did one and mine was the first rocker behind the intake cam gear, if your nice with it and remove all the caps you can lift the whole cam up to able to remove all rocker arms without messing with the timing. slow and steady waiting for the oil to drain from the tensioner.
Thank you for this video! I just bought a 2014 wrangler with 47k miles and the ticking noise is driving me insane. Watching this video makes me feel confident this is the source of the issue!
Thanks Justin, this was my problem too, 80k on mine, but of course mine was on the driver side. I replaced all 12 while I was in there and spark plugs also. I like the video short and to the point, saved me loads of time on diag.
Thanks man. I tried making it short. I hate watching videos that are like 20 minutes long and having to jump around the video trying to find the info you need
David Taylor How was the camshaft! mine got very minor damage on the edges! now thinking to replace the rockers and lifter and leave the camshaft as its since its 100% fine where the rocker bearing seats? any advice! TIA
*PLEASE READ* Fantastic video!! I just replaced the driver side. It's similar to do, but different because you have to pull the upper intake manifold to get to the valve cover. If you have this tick PLEASE repair quickly. If you let it go for long, the body of the rocker will grind into the cam lobe. Obviously this isnt good for the cam, but also puts metal into the oil. Thanks for the trick showing how to NOT pull the cams, and also for including the tq spec. Edit, the part is $9 on rockauto.
2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Replaced all rocker arms and hydraulic valve lash on the right side of engine immediately after hearing ticking noise @119,328 on 8/26/21. One rocker arm was bad and 3 had some play. Job needed a valve cover gasket set, upper intake gaskets and Throttle Body gasket (not replaced). Replaced torque crews on PCV valve (old gasket used) with 5mm bolts for easy access. Remove the throttle body to access the 2 throttle body support bolts. Two bolts removed to relocate transmission fill tube. Special tools needed to secure the cam shaft. Lifter: 12x: MELLING JB7525 Rocher Arm: 12x: MELLING MR1332
@@halv8059 I got the lifters and Rockers replaced on the left side along with the Cam... The Right Side is ticking now so I will need to get it replaced as well... The Dealership should have replaced both at the same time.
When I took my engine apart the first time to replace a rocker arm it seemed to me that there was very little oil up there in that area, even though I had been using 5x20 oil as is recommended-and that was synthetic! So after it developed the second ticking noise I installed an oil pressure gauge and I switched to 5x30 synthetic oil, and I unplugged the wire going to the solenoid on the oil pump so that it stays in high volume mode all the time. Now I am running 40-55 oil pressure going at highway speeds. When I took it apart a couple days ago to fix the second tick (that started before I made these changes) it has a lot more oil on the rockers and etc. So I think it will have cured the problem of the rockers failing prematurely! But that is my personal idea and I wouldn't be responsible for anyone else's modifications!!
@@karcharias811 Bought a used PrlMaster and heard about this problem and changed over to Amsoil. I was going to anyhow. It worked wonders on my daughters Equinox that was having issues. Stalling out etc blah blah. Lemon engine. They eventual did a recall on that motor. PM hasn't been running in 6 months. Lots of issues. But heard tyranny problems also in these. Switching that over to Amsoil also. No competition, that I've seen with their tyranny, gear and hydraulic fluids ! Going all out with their Coolant, PS, and brake fluid. Plan on traveling and hopefully help prevent future issues. It's been good to me for years.
Ahh yes, the ever-present Pentastar tick. Seen this in multiple Chrysler vehicles I have. Never seen it fail at such low mileage though. I’ve found this normally happens right around 100k or so. Thankfully it’s a straight forward and relatively simple fix.
I fixed the ticking noise passenger side (6 months of loud ticking) on my Pentastar engine 3.6 Jeep 2015 with the Marvel Mystery Oil and I returned to Conventional Oil. No more synthetic oil. I'm so happy now.
Chrysler tech here….2 things. #1: the bearings are not the cause of failure in the rockers, it’s the soft metal they use for the pins that the needle bearings ride on. They wear away the center pin causing excessive clearance. #2: don’t repair your vehicle like this guy. Replacing one bad rocker? ALWAYS replace all 12 rockers on intake and exhaust. Chances are you’ll be right back in there to replace the other ones. Do the job correctly, you can cause unrepairable damage to the cam journals.
This is the correct answer. (Replace all 24 since upper intake is off IMO). Need to inspect the cam as well to see if you have worn grooves already from the bad rocker(s)
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!, It's been driving me crazy, I took it to the Jeep Dealership off Tomball Parkway and Paid them to find out what the problems is just to be told they don't know and I need to pay more to find out what the problems is.....
Good video. I just can’t believe FCA hasn’t done a recall. FCA has updated the part and even have a star case about it but not extension on warranty or recall. My local dealer quoted me $1800 to repair it but would only do it if they replaced all rockers, lash adjusters and cams for the one side. It’s nuts that owners get screwed for a $6 part
I agree. But they typically only recall items that are severe safety issues. And no ones died yet from noisy lifters. Although they may feel dead when their wallets empty to get it fixed
Justin Driskell my GX460 just got a recall for a faulty secondary air pump and related items. A little foam filter sometimes degrades over time and gets sucked into the system. Don’t think I’ve heard anyone dying from that but Lexus is replacing all 2010-2013’s I believe. Idk I guess maybe FCA can’t afford it bc there’s already been a recall on the alternator, brake booster twice and sun visor wiring. Not sure I’ll buy a Grand Cherokee again...
Very important on this engine to maintain regular oil changes with full synthetic. I have been told some of the bearings used are not the same quality they used to be. If the oil is kept very clean, and pcv valve is working correctly this will greatly improve the operation of the mechanical components in the upper engine.
I have a 2014 JK and have dealer changed my oil right on recommended schedule for the past 5 years with 93K miles and this just happened to me last month, so regular oil changes at the dealer will NOT prevent this from happening... All moving parts will wear out sooner or later. Next vehicle will be a Tesla... I'm done with gas engine vehicles.
Yes yes yes… That key takeaway here is FULL synthetic oil. Doesn’t matter where or by whom. Nothing to say the dealer was doing it correctly. My girl was getting here oil changed at a “jiffy lube” place when I 1st met her. 3.2 engine ticking with low miles on it. I looked in her glovebox only to find that this reputable joint had been putting conventional oil in the whole time. So, ya never no. You want to trust the “pro’s” …. But , it doesn’t always go as planned.. 👎👎
@@dharkundercity1796 why not have it be later ?? Oil is not oil & whoever tells you different is full of BS. And trusting anyone, including a lot of dealerships is a risk that can be costly,....to.....Y O U ! If you find someone you trust Bravo. Hang onto them. There are some but fewer and fewer.
Great video. I did the same way thank god they were in the back and not near the cam phasers. One thing I did different was I soaked them in oil overnight before I installed them
My wife’s 2014 had the same issue just 5000 miles out of warranty. The dealer stated that there was a TSB on it and Jeep fixed it for free. They totally replaced all the rockers and lifters on BOTH sides.
Nice vid. Right to the point with perfect volume of detail. Crappy Chrysler. 51k and a bad rocker already! Never getting rid of my 2003 TJ. Still strong, and stock rockers with well over 130k on them.
Literally just had this similar tapping sound coming from my 3.6 pentastar today. Hopefully it’s just a bad bearing too. I just hit 105,000 miles so all in all she’s been pretty bulletproof.
6 hours and no ticking!!!! What a bitch that valve cover is. I found it! Intake last cylinder I'm guessing #5 passenger side just like you said. Thanks so much Justin!
Thanks a bunch for this. My 2016 Right Drive that I deliver mail in is doing this at 99k. Has me worried badly, going to garage on Monday. Now at least I'm a little less worried, hoping this will fix it.
Great timing on your video... I have a ‘12 JKR @ 92k mi. I really don’t want the local stealership to do the job, but its a daily driver. I suppose I’ll have to compile a couple lifters & rocker arms, get in there & see whats up. Thanks!
my 2014 ram 3.6 just started doing this ticking noise took it in for dealer to check it's the same rocker arm that's bad nashville dealer said this fix is covered under Chrysler factory warranty for all makes with the 3.6 under 150,000 miles cause this part is defected my truck just hit 158,000 miles so i'm stuck paying $920.00 to fix
You suppose to check the cam too once your replace a rocker cause sometimes the broke rocker chews into the cam and also your suppose the change the oil after you change the rocker to get the shaving from the rocker out just say your going having problems again down the road if you dont
In the US 2015 was the last year of the 5 year/150,000 mile drivetrain warranty from FCA. 2016 and up are 5 year/60,000 mile. I had a cylinder head replaced that was showing a misfire in cylinder 4 with close to 40,000 miles on it. From what I understand, problematic heads were an issue because of faulty manufacturing on a lot of older 2012-2013 Jeep Wranglers, but my 2015 still had it. There's a good chance that these ticking problems can be fixed under the drivetrain warranty.
I see what you did there..... but mine was doing it (2015 jk) which i was running Castrol 5w30 synthetic. The jeep has under 40k miles and mainly would tick from initial start to warm up but i switched to valvoline 5w30 synthetic and haven't heard anything since. It may have been a bad batch of Castrol or better zinc content in the valvoline IDK.
I have replace 5 rockers on my 2012 JK. I also replace the lifters at the same time. the parts not expensive, if I recall the rocker was like $9 each and lifters were a little cheaper. what is strange is that all the JK owners that I know that have had this issues, the first one to go was the same one shown on this video, the second one in from the back on the top, or intake side. Other thing to note is while you have the valve cover off if any others are marginal, you can tell as there will be some wear on the outside of the cam lobe where the sides of the rocker are making contact.
What might this cost all-in at a mechanic? I’m about 95% sure this is what’s going on with our 2016 Wrangler, but I don’t have a lot of free time to tackle it myself. But at the same time, I don’t want to drop $1000+ dollars for what looks like a $10 part. Great video!
I have worked as a tech at a Chrysler in the past. You will want to go to a smaller trust worthy shop that does engines. A dealer will have to do the entire bank at a minimum so that they're warranty will apply after words. This would be timing chains and followers/ guides if not already done. All the rockers/rods or pins and the cam shafts as well. This is what is taught as if one component is worn it likely damaged the part it rides on IE the cam shaft in this case.
Great video. My 3.6 has the dredded pentastar tick. Drives me insane. It's pathetic that all these new high tech motors can't hold together a fraction as long as a pushrod motor. New cars ticking everywhere. Yes Toyotas & Hondas too for those people who think Japan cars are better.
I had the same problem on my 14 T&C and it took me 3.5 hours from start to finish and I’m no mechanic... well I am an oilfield trucker so I’m pretty handy on the wrench lol
@@lupina29 I'd get it repaired as soon as possible. If lifters completely fail then you will the valves will have trouble opening this you'd either run rich in the cylinder effected for the exhaust gas having trouble getting out of the cylinder. If the rockers arms go same thing but the bearing in the rockers can cause bad things to happen.
Hey question man, about how long of shop hours did it take you to fix it, what do you think would be an appropriate price for a shop to charge to do it??
I got my 2013 Grand Caravan apart and the rocker for the intake in the middle of the back head was shot. Thankfully the cam is still OK, and all the other rockers and the lifters are all OK. So I went to town and picked up 3 rockers from the Dodge dealer to have a couple extra ones. But when I got them home and was looking them over closely and comparing them to the old one-I noticed that the little shaft can be moved back and forth in the cage with my fingers, whereas the old rocker shaft was nice and tight, but its shaft was worn on the inside because the roller can be flopped up and down but not back and forth. Were your new rocker shafts loose in the cage so that they could be shoved back and forth? This doesn't seem to me like it would last very long before the hole in the rocker cage would start to wear oblong!!!
Since adding my comment about the shaft sliding back and forth in the rocker arm cage, a fellow told me that it was made that way on purpose so that if the bearing gets worn too much before being being replaced, and the bearing seizes up-then the shaft will turn in the cage rather than dragging the little bearing over the camshaft lobe which would finish off the cam in short order.
same problem with my 2018 ram 1500. dealer told me this is normal. am now going thru the lemon law with this problem. let me know how you made out with the dealer. thanks.
I have a 2013 Jeep JK and a 2017 RAM. It's my 3rd RAM the tick is just there. Google HEMI tick, I finally ignored it. 1st two over a 100K my 3rd is only at 20k cause I drive my Jeep all the time :) but sometimes after I start and drive my RAM after sitting a few weeks it sounds like the engine is falling apart for a few seconds then it goes away. all 3 have done that. My 2013 Jeep JK 2D has 92000 on it and the tick does seem to be getting worse but I switched to 10W30 last year and it went away for the most part. It is probably the needle bearing as indicate and I saw a post above about dis-connecting the sensor on the oil pump to run full volume all the time. I am going to look in to that. hopefully that will make it last a bit longer. Mine is on the driver side aginst the firewall as well. that is where most of them start.
Man my 16 Jk has 65k (yes i have a lot of miles due to work) and same side on the passenger head had them replaced 3 times. The 2nd time it they replaced the camshaft due to the lobe getting chewed. Now its going in the 4th time in the next week with the tapping.
My 2013 just starting making this noise...I can't tell which side it's coming from. It has 240,000 miles on it, so I guess it's done fairly well. I should be able to feel the loose rocker once I gain access; or is there a dependable way to narrow down the location?
My challenger started doing this about 2 weeks ago, 3.6 liter in it was supposed to have been fixed, but I suspect this is whats going on as its a audible tapping/ticking sound.
My 2013 JKU is making this noise. Is the root cause of this that the oil changes weren't performed on schedule? I bought the Jeep used and it started shortly after I got it, so I have no idea if maintenance was done properly by the previous owner. Looks like I have a new project to do . . .
Thanks fir sharing. However the question that comes to mind is; Why a rocker bearing failed so prematurely on a 50k miles vehicle? Second, if the faulty rocker was replaced with another factory replacement, how can we expect for that rocker not to go bad again? Is it due to lack of lubrication? A 50k mike vehicle should be having these type of engine issues. No wonder why on every “10 least reliable cars to stay away from “ article I read, seven of them are Jeep, Chrysler or Dodge. My dad has a 2015 Rubicon with the same Rhine noise. His Jeep has less than 25k miles on it. Totally unacceptable. If you can make reliable cars, stop making them all together. If Chrysler/Jeep hasn’t been able to figure out how to make reliable vehicle after been in the business for more than 100 years, they have no business making vehicles in the first place.
Really common problem with the Jeep JK my 2012 wrangler with the pentastar engine does the same. It's at 99k miles. It's a knows issue with the 12-13 model. Not sure a lot the newer models.
We have a 2012 Cherokee, Dealer replaced all the rockers under warranty at 36k, I replaced all of them outside of warranty at 103k, and now at 156k I am hearing the tap, tap, tap again
Yes unfortunately this is one of the down sides of owning a Wrangler... But i will say, I have a 2014 Hard Rock Rubicon, and the pros outweigh the cons ten fold
