Just went through this operation on son's XJ in December. Was a 1st for both of us! Crank was grooved as well (original motor with 172k) but that wasn't my heartburn. I nicked the sealing surface of crank with punch trying to persuade the old seal out. An hour and a half of polishing upside down on a freezing cold concrete floor later, we put it back together and the seal held... At least for a month or so. Leak is back, but just a little bit compared to previous - I am saying it's from the groove, not the expert polish work! I lived, and learned. If I were to do it again, I would use a plastic punch, and now I know where not to drift the seal from. Digging the videos, as always.
Yours is a lot dryer than mine before you even started 🤣 I haven’t driven it much since I bought it needing a lot of work but everything is covered in oil. Eventually the rear main got much worse on me and now it needs to be replaced if I wanna make it to work and back without a quart of oil. I have parts for the valve cover and the oil filter adapter too so I’ll have minimal leaks if any afterward.
just a side note... for future reference, go through with a torque wrench, and check the oil pan bolts, to see if there are to spec.. typically in (in.lbs.)... clean things up, drive for the normal habits.... check the following day.. of course, if still leaking ,change the seal(s) & gaskets... but many times, not always, but, many times that has allows for additional 5,000 to 10,000 miles before the issue shows its ugly head... that is if the sealing system was installed correctly in the firs place. Your issue of course is with the rear main seal.... cool video though!, keep up the good work Boss.
yes I am thinking that grove was probably in the crank when they remand the engine that's a time consuming fix it has leaked a little since I bought the engine hopefully it will last through the summer they probably wouldn't weld it up and turn it back down in that area to save money ive seen remand cranks with 10 20 and 30 on diff journals they do it cheap as they can get away with thanks for the comment
Around the 24 minute mark, there is a crazy domestic disturbance in the background... Lady screaming, dude yelling..But here we are, hyper focused on rolling that main seal gasket. I appreciate that part.
Invest in a good set of 12 ton jack stands, I have a 4.5" lift and I would still probably get the fame on jack stands to let the front axle droop. Just jack it up and let it rest on the frame, and if you need even more droop from the front axle you can unbolt the shocks.
ATP 205 reseal..... it works, I've been a mechanic for 40 years and 90% or more of all products like this are gimmicks, I tried this and it works..I had a friend tell me about it, but I didn't believe it would work, but it did. I don't mind tearing into a engine to repair it, but if a seal softener really works (but most don't) then I'm all for it.
@@dewmontjerkins9886 the 1st time I put in in my f 150 power steering pump, it didn't stop, I was disappointed but I noticed it slowed down the leak, so I put some more, to my surprise it stopped it, lasted about 1 year, it started to leak again about 3 weeks ago, i added some more and it did stop the leak again but. the truck needs a new rack $315, the oring is inside the rack so I will have to install a new one soon..
I'm doing my 5.2 right now. Be alot easier if lifted. What videos dont tell you is how much of the steering you have to remove, the starter and mount plate. Spending most of the time just getting the pan out
How’s the seal holding up? I’m replacing the 4.0 in my project XJ. It is a low mile engine out of a running 96. I am going to preemptively replace the pan gasket, rear main, oil pump, and oil filter housing gaskets. Figure it’s much easier to do all that with the motor on a stand! Hope all is well!
I found a two feathers in the bottom of my oil pump. And it's funny that he cut out the part of him taking out the upper rear main seal lmfao. Good stuff. I bet he did get down on it lol
Would you consider using a speedi sleeve to correct that scarred area vs pulling the crank? I don’t have a Jeep but just wondering. I have a rear main seal leak on 1973 Bronco with 302/5.0L engine.
what is the minimum lift you need to get a pan off like you did? Also a speedy sleeve would solve the groove in the crank, or at least it did on my Chevy. What year XJ do you have?
Hello. Is it possible to perform this operation with the axle? My Jeep XJ is in 4.5 inches. Thank you (Bonjour. Est-il possible d'effectuer cette opération avec l'essieu? Ma Jeep XJ est en 4,5 pouces. Je vous remercie)
Great video, chances are I'll be doing the same thing with a XJ I bought from my coworker. It's got a 3in lift on it. What size air compressor do you have?
The last rear main I done had one them bolts hit me in the head top seal I put some dawn on mine and it slid right in slicked up the outside worked real well it didnt hurt anything what was on it eventually burnt off that was in a 93 grand cherokee 4.0 next be a 2000 tj
ive got the same issue did mine in December and its still leaking. I've done the valve cover gasket and that didn't fix the leak so im thinking i screwed up when installing the rear main. You can reuse the oil pan gasket ?
Zack.V of it the rubber one piece yes I drove it about 30 miles after the video it's all good I've reused them before on diff engines why I always get that type of gasket
Awesome i bought a felpro one piece last time, i think i didn't wait long enough for the rtv to set up. How long did you wait to fill it back up with oil ?
I put on a one piece felpro one when i did it. How long did you let the rtv set up for before filling with oil and starting ? cause thats what i have a feeling i did wrong when i did mine.
Zack.V I don't think that's the issue I went at til time to put in oil maybe 1 hour maybe it should seal with out rvt the only thing I can think is maybe the lip was the wrong way on your seal ? or sometimes we just miss and have to go at it again man
Hey bud I kno this is an old video but I have a 98 xj an I’ve replaced oil pan, valve cover gasket am rear seal but it’s leaking again, but after degreasing everything oil seems to be coming from the flap on the bell housing where the crank sensor flap is.. u think this could be the rear seal again...
Yep probably so mine has a groove in the crank where the seal rides causing it to leak again also im gonna have to pull the engine to fix it soon on the channel
No one ever does a video on how to put the oil pan back in. On a stock XJ. Boy is that a real pain. Today I get to find out if the gasket is sitting properly.
Dear Rusty I recently purchased a 91 jeep cherokee 4.0 for 350$ AX15 trans . what is the first thing to check for, I can't turn the crank. I have tried to spin it with the starter and manually with the harmonic balancer. oil looks good and antifreeze looks good also. any suggestions? thanks for all that you do.
pull the spark plugs out see if any thing is up with the plugs like something hit one I've seen them break pistons before if you can't turn it with the balancer bolt doesn't song good pull the plugs make sure the head gasket isn't blown and you got a cylinder full of coolant or a broke piston
Hey Boss, while I'm thinking about it, I'll ask you..... as per, the AX-15 manual transmission, the dust shield at the bottom area of the bell housing, is there any issues that would be caused, if one was to completely RTV the clutch area up, all the way around the bell housing, sealing it from the outside elements, especially for deep water navigation, like nasty thick mud.... as long as the engine is running, the spring plate assembly is fine, but once the engine is turned off, results of being stuck in 3 foot of muddy water, the whole area can & does fill up with mud. If you are in that deep, and you kinda have to turn the engine off after a short moment, so you can prep the winch rigging, and due to the electric fan being half submerged if not completely submerged, as the fan is on a switch by-pass from the preset automatic thermal fan controller.. other wise, the fuses will blow, and or, the fan motor will trash out, if it is trying to run in the distilled stagnant trail muck... The only issue that I think would be a problem, is the adhesive action of the RTV holding the bell housing to the back of the engine block if I need to get back in there, but still not a big deal? is there anything else that would be a serious issue of why the clutch area can't be sealed off from the elements, maybe heat build up? The tiny opening/void areas need to be there to allow the clutch dust to be drained out? I really don't know, I am reaching for straws, as to why I simply can't seal that area up.. but there is nothing out there on the net that seams to make any sense of why or why not.. other then a few idiots that that make the claim to not do it, but never giving a reason why... what is your take on this? if you don't mind and have a moment... Don't worry, I won't hold you accountable... besides, the jeep has almost 200,000 on her..... LOL....but, the constant threat of trashing a fan is solved ,trashing an alternator is solved, likewise with the starter solved too.... but, packing the clutch with mud, due to the design of all the openings surrounding it... nothing to go on... I really enjoy your channel, by the way. Drew
Dru Bradley I've thought about doing mine that way before I don't see any problem with sealing it up lift trucks with standard Trans are all totally sealed up by the Bell housing the o ly thing I would do is put a threaded hole and a plug in the bottom of the bell house so you can drain it if any did get it there I've seen a lot of clutches get full of mud and stop working it's a good idea man do it and figure out how to make it better if it still gets in there that's what I would do if I had a clutch in the mud def
Dru Bradley I've thought about doing mine that way before I don't see any problem with sealing it up lift trucks with standard Trans are all totally sealed up by the Bell housing the o ly thing I would do is put a threaded hole and a plug in the bottom of the bell house so you can drain it if any did get it there I've seen a lot of clutches get full of mud and stop working it's a good idea man do it and figure out how to make it better if it still gets in there that's what I would do if I had a clutch in the mud def
What type of glue (RTV) should be used for the joint? How long before refilling the oil in the crankcase? (Quelle type de colle (RTV) il faut utiliser pour le joint? Il faut attendre combien de temps avant de remetre l'huile dans le carter moteur? )
I replaced the rear main seal... twice. in my 2000 jeep xj. First seal was a fel-pro. It wasn't even cut right. Never lined up (I didn't know until I removed it due to my jeep still leaking, and then compared to the seal I bought at a dealership.) The dealership seal is cut right and lines up... but I drove jeep today. It still leaks... The oil drips right onto my exhaust and causes it to smoke. My seal is the kind without the tabs. I don't know what to do at this point.
Rusty 411 my dad and I checked. He said there wasn't. The second time iI replaced the seal. I checked. It didn't look like there was a groove. Maybe there is and I missed it, I really don't know.
Hey, ya almost got me right in the eye with that main cap bolt. Ya ought to hear me moaning and groaning trying to get up off the floor. I got 20 years on ya, it just keeps gettin better.
If this seal is installed incorrectly could it cause a stream of oil to leak out after a few moments of running? Also could a pinched pan gasket cause this as well?
Hey rusty I'm back. So guess what. There's no way urs is leaking cause my tundra just started the same damn thing on Friday. Thought it was wheel cylinders so started that then was told it was this. So yay spent the money and replaced wheel cylinder myself for nothing. Nobody I know knows how to do this so I gotta pay like $800 to fix it.
