Jefferson 500 2016 MG TD Vintage Race 

When I look at other race car videos, I see a lot of steering wheel input, and as you say, my TD has the appearance of being very balanced. However, the video softens everything, even those moments you'd rather forget!

Thanks!! It's the only way I get to enjoy pushing a car in a boisterous manner. I used to live in Sheffield UK and worked in Glossop, at the other end of the Snake Pass so that was my "race track" at the time for 16 years. (Before Radar and average speed cameras ruined everything!!) Cornwall sounds very appealing to meander around blind corners amongst high hedgerows!!!

Thanks, see you in July? at PVGP?

The simplest, cheapest big change is to add a sway bar - I think mine is 7/8" from an MGB and install 5/8 spacers. Have the shocks rebuilt. Front coil springs are about 1 inch shorter (7 1/2") and upgraded to 550lbs. We had the front "king pins" lengthened (at the bottom section) by 1 inch - new ones machined from stock steel. On the rear we went to TF leaf springs and removed one of the leaves, (TF rear springs are "flatter"- less arch than TD) with MGB spacers to lower the rear. The engine is based on a 1250 MG TD block using a Moss forged crank. Everything is fully balanced!! Overbored to 134 thou over and cylinder wall thickness is a minimum of 175 thou & it withstands 7K rpm. 11:1 compression (might be more like 13:1). I have an Aluminium new Laystall head which has been race ported 3 or 4 times as people disagree on what is best!! The cast iron head can be just as good but both need to be massaged for best air flow. Shorter contoured race pistons, with total seal rings. I'm using Saenz rods that are about 1/4 inch longer. I think the valves are 1 3/8 exhaust and 1 7/16 intake (from a TR). According to the Dyno from a few years ago it developed 110 bhp at the rear wheels. Factory was 57? from the engine. It's been a work in progress over the last 10 years and looking at old photos the car sits a lot lower than at the beginning even with some of the original efforts to lower it. It handles really well (for a tractor!!)

Well, it's been a work in progress over about 8 years. It started with an expensive but reliable engine build. More work on the engine to squeeze more power out of the 1250 - really 1380 now. The "transmission" was fairly standard apart from a lightened steel flywheel and Ford Cortina clutch. Then I went to an aluminum flywheel with a Goldstar clutch. I broke a couple of teeth off the cluster gear so that prompted a modification to use a Triumph GT6 gearbox with TR7 gears (closer ratio) and of course the prop shaft had to be re-engineered. I also had a 4.3 rear end built out of MGA gears and I was using that at the Jefferson 500. The engine revs to 7000 so the 4.3 was intended to avoid 7K rpm on the long straights. A lot of these mods aren't critical but you clearly need a reliable engine to get you through the weekend!! We'd love to see you and your TD at some of our events ........ Mike

Roy, It started about 8 or 9 years ago with an expensive ($16K) engine build but it gave me reliability. The engine has since been worked on by Jim Boffo in New Brighton Pa. Originally a 1250 block overbored 134 thou ~ 1380 now. New "Laystall" head - been ported at least 3 times with reprofiled valves to maximize flow. I believe a cast iron head can provide same performance. 13:1 compression using 'total seal' rings. Full race cam - Brown & Gammon but Elgin may have changed the profile slightly. Saenz con rods. Moss crank fully profiled / lightened and balanced using Vandervell race bearings. Critical: - external Weaver type oil pump with baffled sump. Uses a modified Lucas (old) Mini Cooper distributor. Now has MSD ignition. Heavily modified 1.5 inch SU's. An aluminum flywheel with a Goldstar clutch. The engine revs to 7000 but the tach bounces like crazy. When it was on a dyno it gave 111bhp at the rear wheels. - a little more than the original!! The starting problems I've had have been traced to the cutoff switch which dropped the volts to 9V - neither the starter nor the ignition like that! Haven't driven the car since it was fixed but I'm hoping for slightly improved or more consistent performance. I'm in Napa but the car is in Pittsburgh Pa. I can send you a few photos if I have an email - don't think I can attach them here. Mike

Mike- Thanks for the great info. My old TF engine was built by a gentleman down in National City, Ca.. He had an engine dyno back in 1967 and said the 1250+ engine would put out about 100 HP at the rear of the engine which was somewhat less than your 111 bhp at the rear end. I'd love to see some photos of the car. My email is roy-rose4232 at pacbell.net (leave out the numbers). Cheers, Roy

Sent some photos, so just checking they went to the correct email!!

I had 2 rear axles - one is 4.8 and the other that is commonly used for the PVGP (last weekend) is 5.12. I had a 4.3 rear axle made up from MGA gears that I use instead of the 4.8, especially for the tracks with long straights.