an excellent description of these slot cars...the voice of a true master of this craft/hobby has spoken...i could listen to your technical explanations all day...just added you to my subscriptions, sir...thank you for my fun and joy of watching these videos in advance.
yes, along with car company comparison testings that you do, i'd like to see your explanation of how you constructed your layout and it's timing system. i think that would be very informative too. thank you for considering my suggestions.
Of course, but not many realize how much fun they are on Carrera track with a little track honey, and even a digital Carrera track with an OmniSlotBox.
I have many more like them. If you visit you can try them! Most were tuned for optimum performance then retired from racing except for the occasional vintage race. It takes me more than a year to drive each cari the collection for a few minutes, so I can used your help. :
Interesting video, the JK anglewinder is what I would consider slow - thick lexan, can motor and simple chassis. Unlimited spring steel and brushless motors are another level. Probably need some goop on the track though!
Yes these $85 cars ARE slow compared to the $600 cars you are referring to. I own and have raced that category, but here I am introducing a low cost, low maintenance commercial track type car to owners of Carrera and small club tracks. Most of my audience has never seen or considered running such cars on their track. Our club enjoys these and are buying them. Few, if any would buy $600 cars let along the tools, supplies, spares and controllers required to field one. It is possible to run much faster cars than these on our OmniSlotBox equipped Carrea digital track, but they are not more fun. You are also correct about the need for traction goop for the very high powered cars. We find that even these cars with their foam tires need a light application of track spray to perform well, but we have been using that to improve te performance of everything we run here.
Good video comparison of the different car styles. I saw Massimo’s video with the cars you supplied him. He needs a little more practice to be able to go as fast as you were going. I’ve never seen a direct drive car before. Always learning 👍
Yes the DD car requires a very different driving style. It has little brakes and torque. But because of his Low Cg and magnet downforce from the motor it can carry a crazy amount of speed in the turns under acceleration. SO the technique is to brake earlier than usual and stomp the throttle at the turn entrance so the gentle acceleration controls drift. Of course the other problem Massimo had was the tires of both cars immediately fouled with dust. But yes I have 50 years of practice on him.
Thanks for the video, great slot cars, very fast and more or less same price as nsr cars, they are not designed for scale and detail but for speed, very rare to see them here in Spain, they call them "zapatillas". Maybe those flexis or stamped cars where at slot clubs in the 80s-90s but not anymore😢
Wow, that direct drive is really intriguing, I should get one myself ! As a curiosity pertaining to the Carrera, why did you remove the rear magnet and not the central magnet? I do find that keeping only the rear magnet (with perhaps some additional extra stacked aftermarket one) provides maximum handling and grip….
Yes keeping ro adding to the rear magnet gives lower lap times with the Carrera cars, but makes them less interesting to drive , less predictable as they do not drift prior to deslotting and crashes are much harder. We have gone to removing all magnets from the 1/24 cars. Leaving the center magnet in Carrera cars increases car stability but since the magnet is wide and on a smaller arc, the cars can drift without a sudden release. Of course, just removing all magnets from Carrera cars makes some almost undrivable due to poor tires or dusty tracks. We true all tires, use mostly Paul Gage rear tires and apply la light traction aid to the track that prevent tires fouling with dust. We often let new racers try normal magnet, reduced magnet and no magnet cars. Theya re always most confortable with mid magnet only Carrera and no magnet in brand with better chassis and wheels. Although they are "scary fast" these steel no-magnet cars are the easiest to drive, even for beginners.
Track is 8' by 17' I have designed many layouts and really love this one. Easy to marshal and interesting to drive. I never tires of it. Especially since Carrera digital Or any of my analog cars.
As mentioned in the video and in our listing of the JK cars on our webstore, foam tires do not work well on a dry dusty track. We apply a VERY light mist of "Track Honey" to our tracks. This does not make track sticky, but dust and rubber stay on the track and do not collect on tires. We do not have to clean track or tires each time we start running. All types of tires work better. The track gets better with use as it "rubbers in". Another issue with foam tires is that the foam can oxidize or dry out. If the tires have lost grip, sand them lightly and or treat with one of the many tire treatments. Also, if you track does not have a power supply upgraded to 5 Amps of more and /or does not have good power taps and or upgraded controllers you will not ge good performance out of the JK cars. We sell the JK cars on our OmniSLotBox site becasue they work well with the OmniSlotbox upgrade and we include a bottle of Track honey with every OmniSlotBox.
Cars with strong magnetic downforce are easier to drive and can achieve faster lap times but are harder to race than cars with little or no magnetic downforce. Racing is about putting your car "on the limit". With little or no magnet, cars can drift, thereby signaling where the limits are. So they are more predictable and reward proper driving technique. Magnet cars, especially those with magnet toward the rear of the car, loose grip suddenly as the magnet moves off the rail. Crashes are more violent and less predicable. Removing traction magnets form Carrera cars is problematic because Carrera tire and wheel manufacturing tolerances vary considerably, so some cars will handle OK and most badly. Ther can be huge performance difference, even comparing, cars of the same the same exact model. Magnets largely disguise this problems. SO, after long experience, we find that the best set-up for racing Carrera cars, both 1/32 and 1/24 is to remove the rear magnet, but leave the center one in. This gives stability with less sudden release. Then we replace the inconsistent and quickly degrading Carrera rear tires with Paul Gauge tires. We like these tires because they give better traction and do not degrade. Unlike many other replacement tires they can be easily trued. By truing both front and rear tires on our CG tire truer, the wobble and shake often found in Carrera axles and wheels is eliminated. The cars then are much more drivable and differences between cars are mostly eliminated. If you need a tire truer, OmniSlotBox usually has then in stock here: omnislotbox.com/shop/ols/products/cg-slotcars-cgsctm01-tire-truer-machine
@@jimcunningham534 Thank you for your time and advice. We currently true the PG tires and have about 10 consistent guys having a blast currently using magnets. We have removed the rear magnets on a few and find it very challenging. Sure slows things down. We only race stock cars and some just won't stay on the track and was hoping to make more competitive. I figured we could have limits on weight and magnet stick. Thanks again.
@@philipsoucie3015 "Some just won;t stay on track". If "some" refers to drivers, coaching and practice is the answer. If it is some cars... be sure you are truing the tires. On the Nascars the tires are tall and cars that handle less well can be improved by reducing tire diameter, especially at the front. Yes less magnets is slower but the racing is more satisfying and damage to cars is reduced. Another factor is you track. We highly recommend shoulders at and beyond all turns. Also traction sprays like "Track Honey". When it comes to setting limits on magnet cars to equalize performance, we have had great success with the "1 Gee" rule. That is cars may have up to but no more magnet than will cause them to hang upside down on a on a Carrera track. If car "hangs" one can either use a spacer to raise the magnet rf add weight. Either way, it tends to equalize performance even between different brands. Here is a short video demonstrating the "1 Gee" test. Not that the test track is bonded to a piece of MDF to insure itin flat for consistent results. ru-vid.comi4jSb5IvmgE
@@jimcunningham534 Thanks again, lots of great info. We were trying the "GEE" method and noticed out the box all of the Carrera 911's held way better and seems to be the only cars winning even when we switched drivers, a work in progress. We have 120 feet of track and having a blast at high speeds with stock cars other than PG tires and with magnets for now.
@@philipsoucie3015 When racing with magnets we are also to achieve good parity by using the "1G" rule. Cars that can hand on an upside down piece of Carrera Track must add weight or lessen magnet.
Yes. You can order here: omnislotbox.com/shop/ols/categories/cars---jk-132-cheetah-11-and-direct-drive-cars I believe the site will correctly calculate international shipping.
