No ads, not sponsors and no affiliate links. This man is making high quality content for free and giving his honest opinion. I am a patreon supporter and if you like his work you should be too. Keep it up professor Igor, excllent vídeo. By the way, do you know what the cost of those two custom cnc parts would be?
Thank you for your support. About CNC part price, I can see only a discounted price now, but I remember of price of 12 USD, only I am not sure was it for 1 or 2 pcs.
I've seen reddit posts saying that certain filament colour additives weaken the prints. For example, white is supposed to weaken prints, while black is supposed to make them stronger. Not sure if this is true, but would be interested in seeing this tested with common filaments and common colours.
It's definitely true for some plastics. Magpul stated their magazines in Black and 'Sand' (basically undyed) plastics were stronger than any other offered color.
@@MyTechFun Awesome!!! I have been wondering about that too. Will you also please compare the wear resistance of eSun pla+ vs Polymaker PLA+ and polymakers colors?
@@saturnmedia1 Eh, too much work for so small channel like mine. First eSun PLA+ colors, then I will see what is the most popular PETG brand, to get those colors too. Then ABS.. eSun PLA+ color wearing test will be done too, but probably only for that article I mentioned.
Most whites and pastels/opaque light colors just have like 20%+ TiO2 fill that provides no strength. Dark colors OTOH are often just pigments. Creamy semi translucent white & light colors can be okay too.
Thanks! I am looking forward to the eSun color test. I wonder how consistent mechanical properties are from the same filament and manufacturer across batches. Do they do some quality control?
Not sure if youve considered it but each brand of filament has a tiny component of air. So two brands of filament measureing 1.75mm in diamemter require different flow rates to achieve dimensional accuracy. This as you know then affects strength. I can see you doing further tests behind the scenes...lol. Also the cooling fan speeed AND rate at whch a filament cools down after printing will affect ts strength so it you open your printer printer doors immediately after printing, the parts will undergo a small amount of thermal shock. Your videos showing JLPCB products are great as it reminds us all of the other options available if we dont have the filament of equipment. Thx for the video.
Hi Igor - cool video! Nice to see that your printed-at-home were not so far away in strength! What was your personal impression about the finishing / look quality of their parts? Do they look much different from aesthetics perspective?
The quality is fine, but these parts are too simple, not the best to test the quality. Next time I will order a benchy too. It could "fit in the price". The shipping colt was bigger amount here (but mostly covered by JLC..)
great video, you were so close :) I noticed that your infill is not perfectly connecting to the outside walls, maybe you can decrease the infill to outer wall gap in slicer. And of course use a different infill type for that hook, one you used didn't help much in that direction, so something like cubic could maybe work better :)
The reason JLCPCB's parts are stronger was expected if they are printed in industrial printers. They are stronger where it matters: layer adhesion. Even though this is printed with a Qidi that already has 20% stronger layer adhesion because of the heated chamber (see CNC kitchens video) the layer adhesion on an industrial printer will be almost the same strength as the horizontal test speciments. I have mentioned this to you before. Industrial 3d printing is done in a heated chamber close to the glass transition temperature of the filament and then rapidly cooled down with a lot of cooling. For ABS chamber temps are typically 80C. The parts come out much better, more dimensionally accurate, no warping whatsoever and the layer adhesion is as strong as the rest of the model. I think you could achieve the same strength as the industrial parts on a qidi with petg printed in 50-60C. IF the hotend cooling is good enough so it doesn't clog. I print parts in 70C chambers ASA and they come out pretty strong on my modified voron. I have a good hotend fan and duct that directs the cooling to the hotend efficiently so it can print ABS/ASA without clogging with an air cooledhotend.
Oh and love the video. I have been advocating hotter chambers to people the last few months but they don't understand. They always responds that it prints "fine". Yes but there is no layer adhesion strength. Finally I have evidence.
@Broskisnowski No difference. It will heatcreep on other materials just the same. You need a water cooled hotend. It's not just that it shrinks but the material fuses together better it it's cooled down to slightly below glass transition vs cooled down to a lower temp. PLA shrinks too, just not as much.
