JMC 180W servo's 2.2kw square spindle cutting aluminum 

I made some additional changes to it, it works perfect for my work, but i don't think i'll make another machine from aluminium profiles again. It's tedious to get it dialed in, you need flattened/referenced surfaces, as the profiles itself are not perfectly flat due to the production-process. All materials have their flaws and strengths. In terms of ease in use, these profiles score high.

@@berendlucasvanderweide I know your pain. Built mine from 60x60 steel profile and it's not perfect either. 😅🤭 Keep those videos coming please 😁👌🏻

@@pmsilvei Yeh, it's hard to get it fully flat/square. When you use the proper tools to measure, youre eyes will start watering sooner or later.. :) You need to invest serious time to get it dailed in. I've started with a precision straight of 1000mm within 0,02, from there determined the 90 degree angle with a 0,002 precision square. And used the straight again to follow that line. By the time you start measuring the lineair rails on 2 planes, you'll realize when tightening them down, steel is also somewhat like rubber and it starts to twist and bend in all directions you don't want... But in the end, patience, time and brass foil are all that's needed

@@berendlucasvanderweide ahahah I like how you explained it. It's a big challenge, indeed.

Thanks for your comment! Machine has served me well for a couple of projects. Only need to work out the dust-extraction for aluminum, i'm working on that currently.

It accelerates fast between the cuts, and seems to throw it around with authority. (faster than I was hoping for without having the machine walking around) I had the servo's setup too stiff before, and the machine started resonating with even lower accelerations. At these settings currently used the machine runs faster and smoother. My goal was to have a fast moving machine that makes more/faster cuts to compensate for the lack in structural strength of the 'heavyweights'.

Is it using a separate controller or is it integrated? Ac, that's convenient. Does it work at 230vac?

@@berendlucasvanderweide yes its come with separated controller Driver+motor since im staying in malaysia and pretty near them i got it 200usd 1 set each include postage pretty cheap for me i think since its 20bit controller not 2500ppr typical chinese ac servo

I'm currently replacing the spindle with an iso30 atc.

I have stupidly attached the same 2.2kw spindle to a chinese 3040 cnc lol I'd like atc on my AMA25LV

@@dougyt261 that's a Frankenstein creation! My machine looks out of proportion with the ATC, it's about a factor 5 bigger in volume than the 2.2, so it needs some 'getting used to' time.

Benefit of a servo over a stepper.

Lol

It's a rattm 2.2 kw square spindle with ceramic bearings and a Huan Yang vfd. It served me good. I bought one as spare but never needed it. I'm currently using an atc spindle. Need to make an update video..

@@berendlucasvanderweide okay thanks👌🏻

@@gremlin60 machine is going through some changes now, need to make a new movie soon

Hi Seth; Yes, still using them! but i'm using the V5's, if you bought them recently you'll probably have the V6's which tune very different, they have some rudimentary version of autotune, since i have the V5's (which required quite some tuning) the V6 is more user friendly. I've recently upgraded the spindle so needed to move the servo from belt to direct drive (DD is way more silent than belt) on the Y axis i'm using 10mm pitch ballscrews with a 2:1 reduction and on the X/Y it's a 1:1 to a 5mm pitch ballscrew. There are users that use 10mm pitch in a 1:1 ratio. Just keep in mind that you always need to tune a servo to match the inertia. For our application (dynamic load) a set inertia number with a known stiffness and soms sort of autotune should be the best option (since the load tends to differ most of the time).

@@berendlucasvanderweide Awesome! I'm glad the new ones have some level of auto tune as tuning was my biggest concern. It is also great that they have enough torque to drive a machine with a direct drive. Thank you for the helpful information and fast reply!

@@SethAltobelli i don't know what you want to push around with the motors, but they are pretty strong in comparison to my previously used 4,5Nm steppers. (I dare to claim that they are way more powerful) when setup correctly they move the machine around quicker and more silent.

@@berendlucasvanderweide the machine is largely aluminum extrusion similar to your machine. I was originally planning on 3Nm NEMA 23 stepper motors before I discovered these. It seems these will be great.

Yes, that spindle is recommended. So far it's still going strong. Bought one as spare, but that is still unused.

if you change tools in 1.6 sec, it IS 😂

Thank you for your positive comment! I need to make a new movie soon on the upgrades it got during the time of use.. thank you for subscribing!

1605's. I don't know about the rest of the machine, but 100-180w is normally more than enough to turn them with authority.

PED is unused, ALM is fed by a power-source, i thought i'm using 12V and the output is going to this relay board (highly recommended board, it's very convenient in multiple situations) it can be setup active high, active low, output can be set to NO and NC. Item 32742580606 on Alie. So that ALM output is going to that relay board, i'm using 4 boards, but 1 with the signal input in series works also. I'm using the output of that relays board to go to my PAUSE input on my controller (don't have a dedicated motor ALM input on my controller) I had it connected to the ESTOP on my controller first, but that was horrible. When the ESTOP was active, the ENA signal of the servo's was terminated and the servo's alarm status was reset. (so no trouble-shooting was possible) Hope this helps.

@@berendlucasvanderweide Thanks a lot for the quick reply. So I already have a similar relay board in the enclosure 32970231202. I can not change the H/L activation but that can be changed in the JMC software if needed (at least I have read so). So in my case I would supply 5V to the ALM+ of the JMC with in between a 4K resistor like the manual says. Then the ALM- goes to the relay board in one of the inputs and the output of the relay board in either NC or NO configuration (depends what I then set in mach3) goes to one of the input of the BOB (CNC controller, I use smooth stepper). Then I will set in Mach3 the input of the BOB to stop the machine. Is this right?

I totally missed this post Aldito. Sorry. Don't know if it's still relevant. What spindle do you use? Air or water cooled? Is the stator or the rotor 75 degrees C? And are you sure it comes from the windings and not from the bearings? On higher RPM's the bearings tend to produce a lot of heat. And on lower RPM's the motor can't deliver much torque, although full current is flowing through the windings and with an air cooled model the airflow is dictated by the RPM of the spindle (since the fan is directly bolted onto the rotor). I am currently using a high flow fan, that turns on low RPM below 40 degreesC and goes into full RPM above. With a hysteresis of about 7 degrees C.

Good day ! I've mainly built it for aluminium/wood, but had a hardened steel gear for a cardan drive, the gear didn't fit the hub, so I machined it on the machine. Small stepover/depth, short mill. I was able to get it within 0,01mm. If you are building a machine from aluminum profiles, just bare in mind that the profiles themselves are not straight. You need to cut references on it with a larger accurate machine.

@@berendlucasvanderweide thanks you so much sir. Really good advise

Hey ProtoTyp! did you manage to sort things out with HSD for your bearings? This is another machine, the HSD is on the large machine.(the yellow/silver) that's cutting the plywood. I sold the BF20 and this machine uses the last parts produced by the BF. Sad, but I wanted to have a little more speed and XYZ headroom. I'll post more info on this machine as soon as I finish fitting the lifting mechanism for the bed.

Ahhh!! understand! Yes yes machine is up and running again. We just had to call HSD every other day until they finally ran out of excuses and did the repair. Which they did a good job at as far as I can tell. @ adjustable bed height! Great! I had that on my first cnc. Was also built out of aluminium extrusions and I was just loosening the t-slot bit and could slide it up and down or remove the plate and clamp stuff to the side (inside) of the machine. Flexiblen but also flexible in the bad way (not rigid) in my case. Guess you‘ll do it similar to a laser cutter?

Hi Thomas, No, i didn't use dampening in the profiles. The overall construction is relative stiff. I'm using the thicker variant of the 80x160 profiles. Sure, as with everything, it can and will resonate. The 760mm X beam sounds acoustically dead if you hit it. No audible resonances. This more or less goes for all the beams used to carry the rails. My idea was to dampen the bed with sand, but never bothered. Btw, if you are planning on dampening with sand, make sure not to fill the horizontal beams fully. Tight packed sand will resonate better (at a lower frequency) than loose sand. The latter is more self dampening. (I use that 'trick' in my loudspeakers that have horizontal aluminum braces). A 2 flute at 18000 rpm generates 600hz.

@@berendlucasvanderweide Hi Berend, Thanks a lot for your answer. Im also planning to use a 80x160 profile for the gantry and i will test filling it loosen with sand. Best regards Thomas

I had a round one on my previous machine, (water cooled) they are more complicated to install, because they need more parts to mount them. the round spindles also use smaller sized bearings than the square spindles potentially making them less stable. I personally prefer the square ones over the round ones.

@@berendlucasvanderweide Thank you for the reply. Where can I buy the same JMC square spindle you are using? I am in USA. Thanks.

@@sto2779 the driving motors on xyz are the jmc 180w versions. The square spindle is from Aliexpress. I'm unsure if there is a local vendor in the us selling these motors. Mine comes from a company called Rattm.

@@berendlucasvanderweide Thanks for the reply. That makes sense. You like the JMC for motion control? What kind of controller board are you using?

@@sto2779 I've had the first version of these jmc motors (V0.5) they had no auto tune, lacked anti resonance filters and had no inertia settings other than plain PID tuning. I've changed them to OMC stepperonline motors, (also nema23 180w. they probably come from the same factory but have better control and software with the former mentioned features (filter, inertia). I like them a lot for their money. I'm using an edingcnc 760 controller board now. (Dutch company).

1605 1:1

Thanks for your comment! It's running at around 12m/min. Don't want to stress the ballscrews too much. I was using 1610's but switched back to 1605's for the y axis (in my case the dual ballscrew axis).

Berend Lucas van der Weide I tried 14 m/min once (I‘m talking G0 in X and Y of course :-) ) with my machine. I‘m using 1205 - smaller machine.. Such movements are a bit to quick for my taste. It exceeds the reaction time and that’s a bit dangerous and like you said: not good for the linear components - I also cranked it back. Machining („none professional“) is not this much of a race, is it? It’s fun to watch though :)

@@EngineeringSpareTime yes, agreed! The large machine i have is quicker (50m/min) and was accelerating at 0,4g, but that's tamed down, since it's just stressing the components. Although it should be able to handle it day and night, it just doesn't feel right. But on that machine it makes more sense considering the distance it has to travel.

@@berendlucasvanderweide 0.4g = 3920mm/s2 ?

@@olivderpo 1g=9806.65 mm/s2

Yeh, it shows on the sticker! You have got the latest and greatest!

@@berendlucasvanderweide Thank you! One more question, do you have a source for the programming cable? I forgot to ask the alibaba vendor I bought it from to send it with the motors, and I don't want to wait another 6 weeks to get it from them anyway.

@@nickp4793 i made it from an rs232 cable, cut off one side and connect three wires to the plug that comes with the servo's. I don't have got the diagram handy right now, but it's fairly straightforward. It's listed in the manual of the servo if memory serves right. If you've trouble finding it, just reply here and I'll look it up. It's easy to have a multimeter when hooking it up.

Hi, i am currently using a different spindle (total weight of the moving Z axis is now around 30kg, the mass itself is not a large factor when calculating the inertia. (since it moves at a relative slow speed) Rotational weight at the full RPM of the motor is the biggest factor for your inertia. I have just upgraded this machine to an ISO30 spindle and bought 3pcs of the OMC stepperonline 180W servo's for X and Y.The Z is still an issue dropping down when unpowered. I have to make a brake for it. The Yaskawa's sigma 7's are premium. Their auto tune works miracles, also possible to tune 2 servo's in tandem. their extremely high resolution and high frequentie feedback/control loop makes their real-time tuning very usable. For our application (CNC) the real time tuning of the OMC is also appropriate. Delta makes nice affordable servos too. The OMC also include a notch filter that works very well. (but you have to find the resonance yourself). Just do some inertia calculations and determine what servo you need. The 180W versions are potent for sure. direct drive with light aluminum couplers are the best for the innertia. 25mm ballscrews with 40T HTD5 15mm pulleys in steel are bad for the inertia. 63M/min sounds like a rack/pinion? These cheap servo's are great at what they do for the step/dir situations, but in theory there are better solutions where the controller and servo are connected in a way they are aware of eachother (the system knows when to anticipate for a fast inaccurate G0 move, or when to increase the P to a maximum stiffness when the tolerances in cutting are getting tight). But that being said; this ancient and incorrect way of doing it with cheap servo's is working great for me. I have the OMC's inline auto-tune in position mode instead of CNC mode, which make them run smoother (though a larger tracking error of commanded position) but this can be compensated for in the CAM strategy with ease.. (if you are not on the hunt for the last 0,001mm, this method is fine). It makes the machine run smoother at higher acceleration. (so your setup shouldn't be set too tight for the best possible positioning accuracy, this makes the entire machine shake and vibrate). It is not the best way in theory, but it works the best in my case if this makes sense. Here is a video of the software with the OMC motor; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Uxx4bMXpRKw.html 3000rpm, 15msec/krpm acceleration / deacceleration time and a very small short distance test; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZuuerD23QOk.html

@@berendlucasvanderweide I dont know why I miss the notification for this comment! Im sorry for that! Thank you greatly for such an elaborated and comprehensive reply which I dont usually get online!. Life finally get less busy so I am building my CNC as well, I am getting to the stage of really buy the motor. My partner says 200w wont be enough to lift a 30kg moving Z the speed we need (0.7g), but seeing your vids (particularly the "very small short distance test"), I feel more confident in the motor. Lets see who will buy other beer haha Thanks for other advice, will definitely look into those, especially the motor inertia

@@thanhnhanhuynhnguyen3652 no worries, it happens to me from time to time too. At these relative slow speeds The moving mass is almost non existing against inertia of the parts rotating at a higher rpm. Especially large pulleys affect the moment of inertia. I don't know what pitch leadscrew is used for z and what diameter of ballscrew. I'm using 1605 direct drive on the z and that can move fast. I don't tune the servos too tight for minimum tracking error. But suitable for my cnc application.

Mine is about 50kg. I don't know how you want to put it in motion? Rack opinion, ballscrew, with reduction or 1:1? The motors are very potent, but i personally like the 200w nema24's they are more compact.

@@berendlucasvanderweide Thanks for the reply! Not too far off. I was going to use 1605 ball screws, 1:1. 1610 reduced would be nicer, but the 1605's are the right price. Did you change the 180w to 200w servos?

@@John-eq1bo 1605's usually can take more load than the 1610's due to an extra circuit of balls. No, mine is running good on the 180W. No need for changing. But i wouldn't use the 400w on relative lightweight machines as ours. Quick and nimble is my goal.

@@berendlucasvanderweide Of course! Perhaps I'll stick with the 1605's. My goal is also to keep the machine as quick as possible, as it will be used for somewhat complicated 3d toolpaths in aluminium. I was a bit worried about spinning those 1605's at high rpms to achieve rapids and feeds like your machine.

@@John-eq1bo yeh! Just get proper ballscrews. I don't know the length of the axis, but I'm running mine at around 2400rpm. But quality ballscrews are required to do so over 800mm length. (Cheap Chinese will do too, but you need to straighten them flat). I thought about dual 1610 nuts, but when looking in the specs i realized it doesn't double the number of bearing circulations, since they no longer have two contact points per bearing but 1.

Did you manage to get them setup correctly? Mine are V5's too. In my opinion the filters are better left untouched. (set to 0) this gave me the smoothest running setup. Although the tracking error accuracy did suffer, according to the JMC software at least.. Reality was different. With the filters switched off, the setup became more predictable. (just don't trust the JMC software too much. With almost no error in tracking, I noticed an overshoot while recording the motor with a high speed camera. It now comes to a perfect smooth full stop without overshoot while still capable of 10000mm/s2 acceleration. So without filters, the setup became more smooth. P values are set to the max without resonance.

Without, but the z axis drops when the machine is off. Not an ideal situation, but it works. It doesn't do to the table and homing is mandatory before usage. Either a brake or a gas spring to compensate for the weight could be added as wel. But i must admit, it doesn't bother me at all.

Can you tell me the weight of the Axis? Approx.

@@christophsilber4572 sorry for neglecting that part of your question. I'd say It's about 17 kg. It's the 25mm plate, 2.2kw motor, servo-motor, cooling unit, and currently updated it with some pneumatics and a USB microscope. It's running smooth, (lineair rails and ballscrew runs smooth when alligned correctly)the only resistance to consider is the belt (which is the reason why it doesn't drop to the table). With a direct drive you'd need either a brake or a gas filled cilinder of about 80-100N. They are progressive, so the further you press them, the harder they push back.

Hi Ulises; rattm 2.2kw, square air cooled. ER20 collet.

@@berendlucasvanderweide Great thank you.

Software is set for 200 steps per mm. (1605 ballscrews using a 1:1 drive from the motor).The z uses the same accelerations and speed as x and y. Speed is set at around 10m/min and around 2700mm/s2 in acceleration

@@berendlucasvanderweide thanks. and what model of servo? ac or dc?

@@olivderpo jmc 180w, DC

@@berendlucasvanderweide with integrated driver on motor?

@@olivderpo correct. Have a look at the other vid on my channel about the machine itself

Yes, very happy! It's beefier than the 80mm water cooled, and it's using larger bearings. I've spent hours and hours plowing through beech and oak with 12mm mills at 30mm depth, 3 or 4mm overstep, aluminium with 10mm cutter at about 14mm depth, the spindle has been perfect for me. Runout still measures within 0,002mm. It's on alie, brand is Rattm. If you're looking for more power at lower rpm's be sure to buy a vector based vfd. I've swapped the original fan on mine with a 12V fan, not necessary though, it simply provides cooling when the spindle is switched off and has more airflow at lower rpm's.

@@berendlucasvanderweide hey how low can you get the RPM on the spindle? i would like to buy it but i need some lower rpm's aswell. impressive build's you have there!

@@niksechtniks thanks for your comment, don't expect too much from it on lower rpm's. (Below 5000 rpm) if you need more torque on lower rpm's, you'd be better off using a sensorless vector vfd. You could use a bigger 4,5kw spindle, it automatically has more torque on lower rpm. Just make sure you force the cooling with a high flow fan, since the cooling is not optimal on lower rpm's.

@@berendlucasvanderweide alright bedankt! i would like to drill with it aswell, im afraid that's just to much rpm on steel. tried that out with this or the bf20 converison spindle ?

@@niksechtniks yeah. Very, very conservative. (Too conservative for hss) 4 or 5 mm max. Carbide drills are the ones you need. Drilling at 15000 rpm..

Hi Aaron, these spindels are not famous for their torque at lower rpm's. The best possible option is to use a sensorless vector controlled vfd, these give the spindle the most torque. The 3kw should be able to put down a bit more torque though. Just check the manufacturers torque graph of that spindle and use a calculator to determine the required torque and power.Facing and a larger diameter mill on these high rpm spindles is more skimming than making serious chips.

Berend Lucas van der Weide yeah mate I just wanna get a shiny, even surface finish rather than one with a 10mm endmil, :)

@@aaronfonseca6031 Fully understood :). I've recently purchased a 38mm 3 flute mill with inserts for from CMT (meant for wood), i wanted to test that soon on aluminum with 1 insert. I'm used to skimming aluminium with a 20mm standard wood bit, with ok results; photos.app.goo.gl/5VrtgLkPPBQ52qAb6

Berend Lucas van der Weide that’s nice! I love the 20mm wood bit results! What speeds feeds and rpm did you run to to get those results? Also, what but did you use?

@@aaronfonseca6031 That's a long time ago, i thought it was with the old spindle on my previous machine 3000rpm, 800mm/min (SLOW).. It was just a standard cheap straight flute cutter for wood, two flute nocked off 1 tooth to get the best result (face milling usually gets the best result with a 1 flute flycutter) and a slightly tilted head (miniscule offset) that gives the best result. I'll remember your question and i'll let you know once i've tested the 38mm cutter on the higher rpm spindle.

1605's on x/z and 1610's on Y

@@berendlucasvanderweide which type do you think is best for torque and accuracy? I did the calculations and with the 5mm I would reach 15000mm / m of acceleration.

@@andreabonucci3834 speed you mean? 15000 is plenty fast, but I'm not pushing it that far. 3000rpm is a lot for a ballscrew and they need to be perfectly straight otherwise you'll introduce unwanted resonances/vibrations. (Especially above 700mm length). The thicker the ballscrew the higher the inertia and the more power is required for acceleration. I'm using p1 (preload 1, standard is 0) and c5 accuracy. The are perfectly straight. I'm using 2:1 reduction on the 1610's. The jmc motors are specified at 3000rpm, but can do 4000rpm

@@berendlucasvanderweide yes and a lot, but I'm not going to reach it. however I intend to use 20mm screws but I don't know if it is better to have a 10 or 5 pitch for precision and motor effort. I think that with a 10 pitch the engines try harder, but having never tried them I have no idea

@@andreabonucci3834 I don't know what motors you are planning on using. I'm using a 2:1 reduction, but the 180W motors also worked fine with a 1:1 on the 1610's.

I would still recommend them, and it would be my choice if i would need to buy new ones for a machine like this. They are by no means high end servo's. They don't have a very advanced encoder, they don't support an absolute position, and their integrated controller might an issue if you are using flood coolant. The JMC tuning software and auto tune is not as advanced as the more expensive ones. Their documentation is relative limited. The current ones (V6 over V5 that i have) have a more advanced tuning and even have some notch filters if you need those. They are better/smoother than any (closed loop) stepper combo i've came accross. That said; I would never use steppers on a machine like this anymore with these available. even though they have their shortcomings; looking at how smooth i was able to tune them and how happy i am with them; i don't care if there are better servo's available, for this application they are perfect. On my larger machine are Yaskawa servo's, they are more advanced, but that machine is just heavy and for fast 3d work, this machine is my preferred machine. How heavy is your gantry and z-axis? Don't underestimate the power of the servo's. Perhaps the 200W is more than enough.

@@berendlucasvanderweide thanks for the reply! I was first looking for 200W versions but 400W is almost the same price. Gantry might weight about 60-70kg plus z-axis assembly about 30kg. I was thinking to put motor with brake for Z

@@MikkoKui That brake on the Z axis might be a good choice, i am using preloaded ballscrews and preloaded lineair rails, it doesn't move, unless force i applied after turning it off. I don't think my machine is that lighter compared to yours, my gantry is about 50kg, It all adds up fast. I wouldn't use 400W. On my large machine i'm using 850W servo's, and that gantry is about 650kg, and it's using a 9kw spindle, it can cut 25mm MDF in 1 pas with 16mm cutter at 25m/min. Acceleration on that machine is 0.4G. On my little machine i cut 20mm birch plywood with 2 layers of HPL at 8m/min at full depth running the 2.2kw spindle. (on a single phase 230vac 16A). Servo's are pretty potent, they can push 3x the rated torque for 10 seconds from 0-3000rpm, that's a lot of power when you reduce that motion to 5mm per revolution. (depending on the pitch/reduction of your ballsrew/drivetrain). If it feels more comfortable to buy 400W, go ahead, but it is probably overkill. even though it might just be a bit more expensive but the 200W is much shorter. (lower inertia too). So it requires less power to accelerate quickly. And tuning it might be more predictable with a 'fit for purpose' setup.

@@berendlucasvanderweide I have 1605 screws and going to use them 1:1. Maybe I need still to consider 200W motors, or at least Y axis could have 2pcs of 200w

​@@MikkoKui What are you planning on machining? What is the power of your spindle and is the structural base of the machine steel or aluminium? Willing to share some details of the design?

Still going strong! I bought one extra as spare, that's still on the shelve. I like that spindle a lot for my work. Upgraded it with a high flow fan, running at 1/2 the speed till 35 degrees and after that it kicks in at 100 percent. If you are planning on drilling, get some carbide drills, the spindle needs more RPM to get into a more ideal torque range. HSS drills will burn on these higher RPM's.

Yes. Many thanks bro! Can you give me link to order it? I search and get many item look same it but price different 😅

@@pham7878 This is it, but they changed the design of the connectorbox, it's no longer a plug, but has a junction box. item 2038803546 on Alie

@@berendlucasvanderweide many thanks bro! 👍👍

Did you ordered the v5 or the v6?

@@berendlucasvanderweide I have one v5 and 2 v6 actually. I have not received the V6 yet but have the v5 on hand.

@@ArionRaine What voltage will yours be on? I don't think sharing parameters is a wise thing, i don't know about the layout of yours and what ballscrews etc. you're using, but if you have the V6, they have some sort of auto-tuning, i'm using 2 motors for Y, not 1. (since you mention 3 motors instead of 4).I don't think you'd be helped with the parameters.

@@berendlucasvanderweide Its not to use your parameters directly..Why would anyone do that? Just a baseline comparison of one that is well tuned, and an out of the box untuned one. I do not need each of your axis. Just the X or Z would be fine.

​@@ArionRaine here are the settings for the X axis. Same are used on the X. Y uses different parameters. (PL) Pp 19500 (PL) Pf 3000 (PL) Pos Error 30000 (PL) Pd 0 (PL) Pos Filter 0 (VL) Vp 19000 (VL) Vi 3000 (VL)Vd 250 (VL) Aff 12000 (VL) Vel Filter 7 (VL) cont. Vel 0 (VL) Vel Limit 18000 (VL) Acc 0 (VL) Dec 0 (CL) Cp 5700 (CL) Ci 630 (CL) cont. Curr. 6000 (CL) Limit Curr. 10000

Op mijn machine gebruiken ze 1605's met een 1:1 tandriemoverbrenging. Sorotec verkoopt een portaalfrees met 1610's met een 1:1 overbrenging. De motoren hebben meer potentie dan ik had verwacht. De 0,56Nm is een understatement. (Ik meen dat ze met speels gemak het drievoudige leveren) Op de BF20 gebruikte ik 4,2Nm stappenmotoren, maar deze JMC's zijn veel krachtiger. Het koppel van stappenmotoren is het koppel bij stilstand. Je moet al goede motoren hebben wil van dat koppel nog 50% over zijn op bv. 500rpm. Als je de JMC's bij sorotec koopt heb je de v6, welke een zelflerende autotune heeft met een definieerbare stijfheid. Heb contact gezocht met JMC, een firmware upgrade is niet mogelijk van de v5 naar de v6. Weet niet of je een beetje into servos en pid's bent, maar het afstellen vergt wat aandacht.

@@berendlucasvanderweide Bedankt voor je info. Ik ga volgende project bouwen met JMC en 1610

@@BoraTDI1Weet niet wat voor verspaning je zoekt, ik heb deze 1610's gekocht (maar nog niet gemonteerd) met de intentie ze niet op 3000rpm+ te laten draaien, maar op 1500. (met een 1:2 reductie). KO's zijn doorgaans niet heel goed gebalanceerd, 1500-2000 rpm is prima te doen, maar 3000 is voor langere KO's vragen om resonanties. Ik heb nog een aantal 1610 spindels liggen (4 stuks van 1000 en 2 stuks van 700) mocht die maat je passen? Ze hebben de gebruikelijke afwerking. Ik heb volgens mij ook nog 3 sets van de BK/BF12 houders liggen. (hier moet je wel 7001 lagers inzetten, de standaard diepgroeflagers die ze monteren in deze houders zijn ongeschikt) De motoren zijn trouwens in staat om 4000 rpm te draaien.

@@berendlucasvanderweide Mijn freesmachine heb ik met 1605 en dat bevalt me prima met directe aandrijving via koppeling. de nieuwe machine is een plasma snijder en dus andere specs. Tafel wordt groter dan 1000mm

@@BoraTDI1Ik zou dan een rack/pinion gebruiken of een stilstaande KO en een ronddraaiende KO moer. Minder inertia en niet afhankelijk van de balans van je lange as. Op mijn grotere machine zit ook rack en pinion. (maar die krijgt relatief veel kracht te zien bij het frezen) je zou een snaaraandrijving kunnen overwegen, (er komen geen krachten anders dan acceleratie en de-acceleratie op te staan) wel een stijve snaar pakken met staal ipv glas/kevlar.

I posted another video with more details about the machine, have you seen it?

@@berendlucasvanderweide Not yet

@@rafaesposito7796 that is the machine. It's an aluminum portal.

@@berendlucasvanderweide OK thank you very much

@@rafaesposito7796 Feel free to reach out if you have any questions.

Depends. 99 percent of the time it's set to 2500-3000mms2.

@@berendlucasvanderweide wew thats fast >

6A if memory serves right

Thank you. 6A fór single phase inverter right?

@@jaroslavkliment9524 Hang on! just checked the settings; mine is set to overcurrent protection, it's set for 2.4Kw (11A) if this 11A treshhold is peaked for .5 second the VFD throws an error. (i use it to stop the machine, but it could also be used to pause the machine) This is how this is setup on my VFD (HuanYang) 123 is set to 3 (enable over power protection), 124 is set to 100 (percent of setting 142), 125 is set to .5 (seconds of overshoot allowed) 142 is set to 11 (A in relation to single phase 220Vac, which gives 2420W). Hope this helps. Sorry for the 6A confusion, that's the limit i'm using on the servos

Thank you for answer. I have the same spindle, on the label is the power 2.2kw but amps for one phase only 6A which is a mistake. I don't know what's right.

@@jaroslavkliment9524 The setting on the VFD is based on the single phase 220vac current, (which should be 10A, 220x10=2200) the number on the label is the current between between the phases of the motor. Since the motor uses 3 wires/phases (UVW) you need to apply a sqrt3 to the equation; that number is the current per phase. Here, perhaps this explains; sciencing.com/how-to-calculate-electrical-load-12299025.html. Mine also has 6A printed on the label.

Hi Anton, I'm using the v5's that lack an auto tune. The v6 has some kind of autotune, you can ask the supplier of they deliver the v5 or the v6, most of them carry the v6. You need to set a few values to determine the required stiffness of the system.

Here is more info on the V6 auto-tune part. It's in German though, don't know your country of origin. :)

@@berendlucasvanderweide Ich bin von der schweiz lebe aber in denn USA, Los Angeles :)

@@berendlucasvanderweide Welcher link is es?

@@antons6146 Aaah!! great!! I visited LA on a roadtrip through the US once. Your German will be way, way better than mine.. :) Here is the link, about here Sabastian starts about the auto-tune feature; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DSUYgu2NmlE.html

That's an Edingcnc. very nice controller, has a default surface probing routine onboard, and i've added a usb microscope recently to zero the workpiece coordinates. (which is also standard for the controller). to be honest, i like it a lot. You can download their software on their website and give it a test-ride in simulation.

@@berendlucasvanderweide Have you ever problem with this controller? For example in 3d offset machining or edge corner of the rectangle??

​@@mohammadrezagolbaz432 I don't know what you mean with 3d-offset? i asume some 3 simultanious working axis? In that case, no, its a very capable controller as far that is possible with a step/dir controller. It uses so called look ahead feed algorithm, which looks a few lines ahead in the code to anticipate to the next angle/corner that comes up. you can set the G64 accuracy with some parameters. (to get a smooth as possible motion from the axis)

@@berendlucasvanderweide Thanks

Yes, it is

@@berendlucasvanderweide thanks for the quick reply, I was going to buy the same spindle Your CNC is awesome btw

@@buddhichampika5823 Good choice, it's a decent spindle in my opinion. Thanks for the kind words Buddhi! What are you planning on building?

@@berendlucasvanderweide yeah i saw the other video you said spindle runout is very low and few good things about it i had few THK HGR30 linear rails which i got to build a CNC originally i have planned to build a VMC but after planning everything the working area wasn't enough, after seeing your video i thought about making a robust desktop type mill Your build is really clean and looks perfect almost looks like a something came out of a factory

@@buddhichampika5823 Thanks! My advice is to start drawing your machine, (i've used Fusion360 for that) and make the drawing 2 or 3 times. It gives you a clean result and a more/better 'thought through' product. It's fairly complicated to make a 'perfect drawing' from shred with something like this. (At least, i know i don't have the tallent to do it).. 30mm rails are huge! I have them on my big machine, and they are BEEFY!