Surfing is about flow and humbleness. Ego wreaks havoc in the lineup but eventually, if you surf long enough, you return to being humble. The ocean forces it.
Kudos to Echo so nonchalantly and very respectfully correcting Jocko on pronouncing 'Waimea.' (That drove me nuts!) 🙃 Great stuff. I've been surfing for 37 years and agree with what surfing does for him 100%. It definitely 'empties your brain' in a very positive way. I too started surfing at 10 years old but in much warmer water on south shore of Long Island... So much admiration and respect to you Jocko. Aces. 🙂👊👍🇺🇸
Surfing allows and gets me to a point, after 50 yrs of being in the sport along with competing still at 55, with 3 back surgeries, my mind goes silent when my feet hit the sand. As I stretch my breathing starts to calm. When I hit the water and start to paddle my mind is just blank and my face has a smile! See you in the water Jocko🤙 YEW. GREG⭐🤙☘️ ONLY A SURFER KNOWS THE FEELING!🤙🤸
There are moments in the lineup surfing that stay with you forever, not even waves just moments of pure peace. I always go back mentally to a day at salt creek, late afternoon, big and kinda of blown out windy. But it felt so much more ocean-like that day, the sun behind the waves, the barrel rides were beautiful. I think about that session a lot, just sitting there in the blue.
One of my favorite surf memories is just sitting out back alone at a rural spot, sunny, almost glassy with a bit of offshore, and watching the waves break from behind. The spit off each wave formed a rainbow each time. Spent a lot of time that day facing the shore just watching it.
I feel this way about skateboarding. Relaxing, exciting and painful while requiring discipline. Ive done it for a year so far and practicing it consistently has honestly saved me during quarantine for getting more disciplined.
I think that the big connection between surfing and BJJ is patience for the right moment to execute and composure and confidence when that time happens.
I only did surfing because mt brother did it, and I resisted until a pommie house mate encouraged me to take it up when he did. I sort of enjoyed it but never as much as my brother and to this day, my brother is still obsessed with it, probably until the day he dies. To you my brother - a very balanced human being being.
Miss San Diego, for only one reason. San Onofre. Longboarder I kind of suck at it, but I love it. Spot on Jocko. There's also a Cleveland Surf Club on the Great Lakes. It is connecting with the spirit. It's one against the power of the ocean and rolling with it. It's humbling and enlightening.
I tried surfing once, haven’t done it since. Snowboarding is my serious love. It’s just exhilarating, it also gets you outside, into incredible mountains, makes you adventure for incredible lines, hiking insane peaks, it’s just amazing. Surfing is cool too but I just thought I was too old to pick it up. I’m already good at snowboarding. I’m not really a gym guy, I think men should get exercise outside in nature. That’s where we become men.
7:10 The connections between BJJ and Surfing it's always a changing force that you have to go with, you can't fight it, you have to improve yourself and it empties your mind.
Was about to make a remark about sharks avoiding Jocko but I'm pretty sure that even they avoid the waters of Maine, it's just way too cold up there man
Also in both surfing and JJ you are often flat on a surface and using your upper body ... so you need coordination and being comfortable in “difficult” situations from that position ...
Only OG schoolyard grass wrestlers know of that grass itch. You spend a few minutes grinding your bare back on the grass and your skin will be on fire.
Technically from what I heard your in with a place holder till you go to buds I would go look at Mrballen he has a six part series from day one to graduation
If I say its safe to surf this beach, Captain, then it's safe to surf this beach! I mean, I'm not afraid to surf this place. I'll surf this whole fucking place!
Cool Jocko keep talking about leadership and surfing while people are attacked by rioters and looters. Family owned businesses burn to ashes, people harassed at restaurants, cocktails thrown at cops. KEEP TALKING ABOUT SURFING MAN YOU'RE A HERO 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
Hey Jocko rioters throwing Molotov cocktails at the cops tonight. Did you see the attack in the restaurant? You're still quiet about it. Just like when you read everyday people and you said maybe if u stay on the side of the bad guys you can help out a few good people.
