John Deere 2210 driveline Ujoint Replacement and Greaseing 

Thanks for showing the whole process. Others have just glossed over or already had things apart.. some don't even show how they got the driveshaft out. Pex

I found when I repaired mine the the rear universal was never built right. One leg of the universal had no port in it so that when greasing one never got grease came from factory that. Factory built flaws. Sad. Each set of spiders as they call them cost 300 dollars and you need 2 of them plus a day and a half to repair first time a learning curve. Cheers to those that provide videos to help

I understand your frustration. Maybe your video will save someone else some headache.

There is a small rubber access port on the left side of the pedestal. I use a LONG needle tip on a small grease gun. This can be done with a littler patience. I cut a small access port in the foot deck and used the same rubber stopper as the side one. The needle tip works very good to grease the rear universal. I now grease U-joints about every 50 hours. I never want to remove the ROPS and fender deck just to grease the rear U-joint.

Great work man, 3" hole saw on floor board where drive hump under seat to get access. Needle tip grease fitting o. 12" rigid line fills it just fine for future. Use a long screwdriver to rotate driveshaft to line up.

I'm replacing mine now. Idk if this will be any better. But Napa Brand F410 has the grease fitting on the cap and not the cross. I hope that makes life a little easier around here

For the rear zerk, would you have considered cutting a small hole in the transmission cooling fan housing plastic bump/floor, and then using a rubber grommet to seal it back up for easy access next time? I am looking to do this job on mine and am curious if there is a good reason not to, other than the fact you would be altering the machine with a hole.

Your video is well done, thank you

My 2210 driveline u-joint went out two days ago. Was quoted $2,100 to repair at JD Equipment, a John Deere dealer in Columbus, OH. It's a 2004 model with 700 hours on it.

Thanks for posting. I feel your pain.

Awesome video. Is there a video for the front u-joint? Looks more complicated.

Thank you for this Video. I know that I am going to make an access hole in the floorboard to grease that U-joint.

Wow, thanks a lot! I'll try to grease mine, also replace plastic fan! When done, I'm selling it and will find a different brand IF I can find something easy to work on! This design has made me leave Deere tractors.

Have you ever tried to just take the driveshaft off and grease the shaft, then reinstall it? i was thinking there is just a c washer in the front holding it on, remove that and then slide it forward

Are you able to fit a grease gun on both zerks once it's exposed? I assume you are able too since you finally got to the front one. I just recently bought a 2210 with under 600hrs on it this summer. The owner said he always brought it to the dealer for service, except both of these zerks look like they never had any grease since day one. I asked the dealer how they get to these, and they just laughed and said good luck (so they know they never touched them). As said Already I have read the shaft is $800 and that's if it only takes out the shaft and hydrostatic fan. Any damage to your hydrostatic transmission and you just jumped up to the 4-8 thousand dollar mark depends on what was damaged acurd and how fast you shut it down after it snapped. Good video by the way I appreciate the time and effort. I'm going to have to do the same here really soon. And FYI if you ever need to replace one again stop by a kobota dealer, someone claimed it was over half the price of mother Deere?

I went back just to make sure I heard right. You said it cost $2000.00 for the dealer to do this. Don't know where you do business but when I still had my 2210 I had my dealer do it for me. I'll put down just what they did on the receipt. "Remove seat, fender deck, floor pan, and replaced hydrostatic transmission driveline, test ran tested OK. $450.00"."Labor: $450.00. Parts: $89.84. Misc: $15.15. Total: $554.99". I had 1436.8 hours on the tractor at the time this was done in March '13. Someone wanted to take you for a ride. I traded it a month later for a 1026R.

John Deere added an amendment to the service manual and indicated that the ujoint should be greased every 250 hours. I found that out at 500 hours and $2000.00 to repair mine. I threatened to sue and they reduced the bill by $650.00 The dealership said they would grease the fittings for $750.00 labor every 250 hours. Are you kidding me? I cut two 1" holes in the floor and cowling. Use a needle attachment on the grease gun. Takes 10 minutes now, that encludes having to lineup the driveshaft. John Deere you failed on this big time.

I've got a 2210 too (check my channel if you'd like) I recently did a big service on it for 500 hours. All the fluids except coolant, all the grease fittings, etc. etc. I also work at a Deere dealership part-time in the Parts department, and the only reason I knew of the u-joints was from one of the technicians telling me about them. I asked him what the best was was to access them, and he just laughed and said you have to tear the tractor completely apart. I don't know what John Deere was thinking when they did this, completely idiotic in my opinion. Once I figured out that I couldn't get to my driveshaft easily, I just gave up. If it breaks, it breaks. No issues yet, hopefully none to come. On a side note, I had a couple come in with the same complaint on a Deere 2305, which is basically the same tractor. The ended up breaking the yoke, and destroying the transmission cooling fan. They had to buy new u-joints, a new fan, and a complete driveshaft. Needless to say, they spent almost $800 on those few parts.

At 7:52 you threw the floor pan didn't you? I would have.

Always fixing small deere tractors. This is why I went with kubota.