I'm having the same exact problem. I will do exactly what you did and I hope that fixes it. Thank you for your years of knowledge and this video. If it works for me you will have saved me who knows how much money. Thanks again!!!
Hi Warren 😃 you fixed it mate, electrics sometimes fool us, and it all takes time to puzzle it out. It sure warms my heart to see little Josie jumping around again, looking back to normal, did the vet fnd anything wrong whith her,?, well here's looking forward to your next video, thanks for this one, stay safe mate, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Good job, a relay logic master, Nice to be able to diagnose a circuit with a multimeter as opposed to a computer and diagnostic software. Great video, really enjoyed your troubleshooting
Hi Warren I’m fixing a front right wheel seal on a zf axle on a 2940. I just wanted to watch something so I can learn a thing or two from you and I see you just uploaded this video!!!! Thank you so much for everything you do and the great videos! All the way from New York!
@@michaelshepard1867 definately a good video im just doing the seal and the king pins, but I do need to pull the steering knuckle and the shaft to replace the brass bushing as well have nothing wrong with the planetary so I’ll check it while I’m in there but not as deep as I need to go! Thank you
Thank you for posting this about the diode. Have a miller trailblazer 301g with a Robin Subaru/Conan Perforner OHV 220, and lately when shutting of the engine it kind of runs like the older cars did with denotation issues when shutting off. Found the parts manual for this EH 64 engine and it uses a diode and a relay for the ignition and shut down system. Looks like mine the relay is the problem. My 99.5 F350 7.3 PS also has a diode in the fuse box, it looks like a regular fuse. Have not had any issues with it.
Wife grandpa got me working with all type of equipment and this is what I need ur the man learn something everyday 4 years of experience and best 4 years of my life
The diode serves another purpose in that configuration- you see these diodes on lots of equipment with bigger starters - the purpose is to control what is called fly back current- fly back current is the current/voltage that is released when the solonoid is de-energised when the engine is cranked. The fly back voltage/current spike will screw up other relays and controls in the system. I have, by accident, come in contact with that circuit on a 24 volt starting system on an old 12 cylinder 600 kw generator - it knocked the dog crap out of me and caused me to investigate exactly what caused it and why I got hit so hard. The diode is basically blocking the energy that is dissipating from the solonoid from damaging other electrical parts on the machine. My estimate of your failure goes like this - when you were moving the machine with the high resistance wire between the diode and the starter - the parking brake relay was working to hold off the parking brake - but when the resistance got too high for the relay coil to operate the relay dropped out and ur machine slammed into park. High resistance in a diode circuit will not fail a diode.. when the resistance goes high it cuts down on the current passing through the diode. However it does take about one volt to start the diode to turn on in the one direction - otherwise known as biasing the diode. That is why you have a 9 volt battery in your multimeter... in your scenario it's hard to say exactly what happened first because the machine would start through the diode failed closed like yours - so no telling when it failed - but the high resistance wire will cause all your symptoms . . So my estimation is that the bad wire caused all the symptoms and you discovered the failed diode along the way... good fun video guy...
Sometimes problem is deeper than meets the eye. And when there's wiring involved, that's why I always despised chasing down a short. But after watching you, maybe just maybe I will be able to figure it out. The other day I put brand new points and condenser on an old five horse lawn mower motor. Normally I would take off one part at a time. This time I took them all off and replaced everything step by step, including timing it to where it would run. It's a beast now!
At least you found the cause of the problem along with result of the problem or visa versa. Thanks for the ride along, and the explanation to how to resolve it and your experiences in the years of field service work.
Great video Warren thanks for the update. Glad you were able to find the actual reason the diode shorted. Glad to see Josey is feeling better stay safe.
You mention the park break would tear up the drive line. Looked like the drive shaft had been replaced. Enjoyed watching as all ways. Glad the pup is back to normal.
When you have weird things going on with hydraulics “sticking” - check the return passage for obstruction starting with return filter. A lot of those valves do not have separate drain lines and use return circuit for drain. Also any moisture in the oil even if oil is not milky can get behind the pistons and poppets in to spring cavities and either build up the rust or even bacteria grow, which in turn can plug up tiny drain holes. And when drain holes plugged, the hydrolock will not let the piston or a poppet to move all the way.
Warren, you diagnosed perfectly. We have to always repair the first known problem we find when doing electrical, to get to the root cause. Unfortunately we can’t always carry the parts we need, if you would have had that diode in your truck you would have found the root cause that same day. In my opinion, you did an awesome job diagnosing that issue. I really enjoy watching your videos, I’ve learned a lot from you. I’ve actually been inspired to start vloging my days out on service calls. I wanted to ask you what type of base are you using on your camera? Are you using a GoPro?
Mosquito AKA, the Louisiana state bird. One night my wife and I had to flee a rest stop in Louisiana because of mosquitoes. It was hot and we rolled the windows down a little for some fresh air. In less than a minute we had a swarm in the car. Up went the windows and on came the interior lights and the battle began. After we reduced the odds against us we hit the road to find a safer place to get some sleep. It felt like those bloodsuckers had 6 inch beaks and for a few minutes I thought they were going to drag the car off into the swamp.
Hi Warren, Good job finding the problem. Watching a lot of car and heavy machinery repair, it seems like powers and grounds are extremely important. I just watched Ivan at Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics have a similar problem with a 2022 Kia that had just come the body shop. (and dealer) Pressing on a plastic guard would cause the car to quit running. Turns out that the guard moved a power harness that had loose grounds. As far as the diode is concerned, there is a possibility that it could short out. A bad ground would artificially raise the voltage across the diode which could put it in a condition that would exceed the diode's voltage rating. I'm just speculating here as I don't know where the diode is in the circuit. Keep up the good work. Sean
Warren don’t feel bad about not trouble shooting further when you found the bad diode, I spent 50 years working in the electronics large mainframe computer industry and in the late 1960s there were lots of that current steering diode logic to control relays. I have seen diodes, blow open, blow short and just become a resistor like that one on the JD tractor. On the positive side you had the schematics and the knowledge to troubleshoot to find the actual problem. Had a similar problem on my brother’s CIH 3230 open station tractor when we did a clutch job a couple weeks ago. After we had clutch, pp and bearings replaced and tractor back together, the starter would not engage when ignition switch turned to Start position, some how the wire in the main loom from ignition switch to clutch safety switch went open and we never touched that part of the wiring harnesses. Had to run a new wire just like you did.
Oh yea and well done again Warren and thank you for sharing your expertese. It cant be easy working and holding a camera while talking out loud. Cheers
I learned how to operate one as a kid. The owner said if I could figure out how to operate it he would give me a job. I was 12, also had to figure out the f450 and gooseneck. Year later I could operate all the equipment and move it from job to job.
I wonder which is more dangerous??? The stall scenario in the manual or that thing slamming into park in road gear and ejecting the operator??? If it was mine the parking brake would be manually operated.
Also, an owner could add a hidden 'anti theft' toggle switch to interrupt brake release and hobble machine....probably wouldn't work if being used by multiple operators tho.....
Nice job Warren. Sometimes trouble shooting can get you pulling your hair out! I am glad that your pretty darn good at it. Hope you get an extra day off this weekend. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the video and explaining the park latching relay function. Note that some diodes fail open and some fail shorted when too much current goes through them. Seems like that diode should not fail unless direct 12 volt is applied to the wire on the side attached to the park brake latch relay. Possibly the diode wire and a 12 volt wire are chafing together in some rough metal area of the tractor causing the diode to fail due to direct 12 volts applied to it and the wire to also fail.
Can’t see the diagram but usually the purpose of the diode is to protect the coil of the solenoid from the voltage spike when solenoid goes in off position. Usually is parallel with windings.
This one just blocks the power going to the relay ground while starter solenoid is energized. But the diode does experience the inductive ( if you can say that for DC circuit) spike when starter solenoid is de energized.
@@jneuf861 since every solenoid windings has a diode in parallel and the diode is a short in one direction and open on the other,the positive voltage has to be on the cathode side
That’s what I try to explain to my customers: think really good before you go ahead and Jerry rig something, because you are putting yourself in the situation of a lot of frustration, confusion, downtime and money wasted the next time you will be working on the same thing!
Warren! Check the rating for that diode with OEM, because it does experience the voltage back spike when starter solenoid coil is de energized. It might have higher voltage rating or even be schottke diode instead of silicon one. If you install the wrong one - it will not last long.
One more thought. Diodes have ratings. 1. maximum voltage (in this case that will probably be 200v or more), so nothing found on this machine will exceed that rating. 2. maximum current in amps in the forward direction (in this case probably 3-5 amps or more) considering the coil of the latching relay, in series with the 12v supply to relay this may be 1 amp when energized. Diodes usually fail shorted, except when supplied enough current to completely blow them open. So high resistance on the starter ground wouldn't hurt the diode, but unintentional application of the power probe tester, applying voltage to the relay socket, could blow the diode. BTW, i so impressed with your use of the power probe a year or so ago, i bought my own. What a lifesaver. Thanks.
I like the engine and these electrical diagnostic videos the best. I need to get me one of them power probes. I'm thinking of either getting a power probe 4 or the one snap-on sells.
Nice diagnose and lecture Mr. Warren, even to me makes sense a guy like me that knows little. Oh love your pup pettiest little thing but looks like she has malnutrition HaHa looks like you feed her more than yourself .
Hi Warren I admire your never quit . Find the cause. Watching this vid I noticed you relied on the ohm meter for finding resistance on the ground wire to the diode maybe a better way is to voltage drop that wire cause the ohm reading doesn’t prove conductivity just my 2 cents CHEERS
@@mtozzy11 voltage drop tells you everything about a circuit because it takes voltage to move current thru resistance which will provide conductivity a ground side voltage drop is 0.10 VOLTS IS GREAT
@@anthonysova7117 you are right, but in the situation voltage could of still been +13v at the end of the dead wire or even even earthing out on the chassis of the backhoe giving you +13v or whatever the battery or alternator were putting out. So best way to test it is in isolation by doing a resistance check. 0.2 ohm would be a good wire.
@@mtozzy11 your missing the point a continuity test cannot verify the circuits ability to handle circuit CURRENT when the circuit is turned on the quality of a wire or connection can only be determined by a voltage drop test never assume a low resistance on an ohm meter means the circuit has good conductivity ever see a wire rubbed still might show resistance with the remaining strands Learn Vd removes all doubts
When I first got my Deere 310J parking break would apply randomly, first time it happened it was at full speed, it was a pucker factor of about ten. After that randomly happening about 10 times I narrowed it down to a bad wiring harness and also replaced the park brake solenoid. These quirky issues in the way they engineer the electrical system and transmissions on these just seem to get worse with the newer models. Add in cheap imported parts on top of the engineering and it's a recipe for disaster!
it goes to show that experience is valuable and a previous experience held the answer to it going into park.... which must have been a bit hair raising while driving along.
Hey warren, I have a very similar machine, it’s a 2005 310G backhoe loader and It’s having intermittent starting problems. What’s the easiest way get my hands on the troubleshooting manual and wiring schematics?
i got it, that relay is a latching relay, so if you hit start, it unlatches, and can only be relatched by operating the parking switch. like everything, so safe, its useless.
Truly love electrical problems. Got a new Kubota ag tractor with a "engine_ACU" code. Looking forward to going through the schematics tonight. Nice work Warren. I'm sure this helped a TON of people, including myself. (Thanks buddy)
The John Deere 310e backhoe appears to be going into gears 3 and 4 BUT not gears 1 and 2. Where should we look for the problem? How does the electric aspect of the tractor works to get it into gears 1,2,3 and 4?
And the only reason the engineers made the circuit that way is if the machine stalls and the operator restarts it the s terminal goes hot and the relay drops out and goes into park
How do you like living in that area of Oregon? I’m in Montana and looking to move out of here soon. Place just isn’t the same and these housing prices are keeping young couples like my wife and I out of the market, as I know in a lot of places that’s happening.
An issue like that would do nothing short of making me want to whip some engineer with the wire bundle until they came up with a better way of doing that , the fact tht they seem to have kept that design for years just makes that feeling worse in me. Great diagnostic work though.
