Here's how to re-install the track and master pin onto the machine after a full clutch and final drive rebuild. Toss a few bucks in the hat: Patreon: www.patreon.com/themadmailler PayPal donate: themadmaillerATgmailDOTcom
Is the master pin directional on this style of track? I noticed that you drove it out the same direction you drove it back in. If it was tapered wouldn’t it want back back in from inside to outside of the track? I know you’re was loose so maybe it doesn’t matter.
I have a 350c. The track seems stretched to the end of the rail. Will require new bushings/bearing?for front idler. Wondering if I can remove one link from the track as well.
@@themadmailler my father suggested that. They don't seem to be all that bad. Definitely lots of play in the idler. That repair will help but won't gain a whole lot of adjustment. Going to resurface or replace the adjustment pistons while I have the tracks split.
Chances I’ll ever work on a dozer? None! But I’ve watched all the rebuild videos. I like your style, the camera work and the little tips here and there that apply to mechanical things. From one shade tree mechanic to another, great jobs
I had a question for my John Deere 350 B I had a guy tighten the clutch is up it worked fine and then one of my employees put way too much fluid in the transmission now time to time when I go to put it in drive it hesitates what would be the calls of that and ????
that is the hole that the grease comes out of when you open up the relief to loosen the track. there is a bolt with a locknut next to the zerk, if it's loose it will allow grease to come out.
