one thing is don't waste time taking the wheel off the axle. in the time it would take some time to get the wheel off the axle I've had both of them axles off the tractor
Glad I ran across this video I'm going to have to do a brake job on a 4020 this will be my first time still a virgin your video should make it less painful thanks for posting
Great video. So many folks miss your point about removing and cleaning the suction filter - it is pretty always where all the junk collects and serves to indicate a growing / developing issue of clutch / brake discs breaking up / worn out. Last point - ALWAYS use new O rings / seals when you reinstall as the old ones go hard, flat and brittle and leak later!
Wow thanks for coming all this way! If I ever get RU-vid Rich I am coming over there and you can give us a tour! You got some beautiful country from what I can see in pictures
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 you are more of welcom any time. Greece is cheap you just need a flight ticket and litl bit of money. For a good month of holideys. Its going to be my plezure to take you any were you wond :)
do you happen to have a video on this process? I recently tore mine apart and it had no shims so I need to put some in before I put it all back together. I've never installed these shims before..
@@benn1851 I don't have a video but I belive Renner stock farm has a good video on that. Otherwise it's pretty much 00 buck shot bbs that you put between end of axle and washer then tighten bolt to torque spec measure how much they squished and that's the shim pack. Then check rolling drag. Hopefully that helps you
A lot of times if I'm doing new bearings I don't use shims I just set it by Rolling resistance. When I rebuild the 4430 this winter I will have videos on this but if you need something sooner see if your dealer will print you out the pages for your specific tractor
Another great and helpful video! Deere told us that 8 different pads configurations were used in the 4020 and there is no way to ID which pad you need prior to getting the old ones out. Were you able to order your pads ahead of time or have you really seen that many different pads in the tractors you have done?
I did the right side on my 44 last winter, still gota do the left😆. It made a screeching sound, pads were like new yet but the rivets were looser than a goose.
Excellent video would the same thing apply on a John Deere 440 A tree skidder mine has slow wet brakes and chatters a lot when lifting the blade it is a 1974 year model I have never thought about the suction screen I have had it 30 years it does get better for chatter with new hydraulic filter and fresh hydraulic oil
Looks like you have some similar parts. Don't know if it's just in the front axle or back axle partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/67672/referrer/navigation/pgId/260127
Enjoyed the video! New 68' 4020 owner learning as much as I can. Right now it is still, "...gotta look for a mechanic becuase I don't have all of the hoists or supports!" Also, should I be needing to push the clutch in to have the braking power to stop? Hopefully not a stupid question, i have a syncro range transmission.
I was rewatching one of your older videos comparing the 30 series JD and the IH 86 series you were hitting your knees on the IH I was wondering how tall you were. I'm 6 foot 2 and I can't remember hitting my knees. I do admit the ceiling was to low
That's all good information I have a one question though we have a 4430 that the brakes have been redone the Hydraulics chatter in the remotes and the three-point hitch but not in the steering the screen on the bottom with a half inch Drive is wore out and the half-inch drive will not fit anymore is there a special tool or trick to get them out without the half-inch drive if not can that screen be clean from the inside the two-speed is out right now so have to split the tractor to put that in one other thing when is Shane Holst bringing his 4850 up to you I'd really like to see the video on that?
Hopefully soon. You can weld a nut if that Square Drive whole is wore out. At least then you get the plug out then you can either replace it or leave the welded nut on there. If they're chattering throughout the day we could have supply-side leaks like the 2-speed or the PTO or power shift packs or the transmission pump itself is shot. Or you could have a priority valve problem or a high pressure leak Below your right hand Outlet on the transmission case is another half inch square drive plug. You can take that plug out and with the tractor running do you see oil spraying around inside there or can you hear a lot of hissing
I bought a 4620 PS that had that issue. No PTO, the brakes bounced back at me and the lift arms chattered on the first action of the day. Turns out the hydraulic filter was incorrectly installed causing cavatation and aeration; spring on the wrong side of the cone. After that was corrected, I bled the system correctly and that was that. Easier to check that filter than to split a cab tractor.
@@thegreenerthemeaner this tractor is a quad range and I know the two-speed is out because you don't have 2 gear and 4th gear and any of the ranges so it will have to be split anyway. the 4620 powershift you have 👍
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 thank you I when to today to get hydraulic oil filter, t from the John Deere sales guys ask me if the screen clogged I told him yes. ,and told him I just changed like 50 hrs he told me is getting clogged because my brakes are going bad. He is been this dealer for 30 years so I do believe him. What you think ? the loader movers very slow.
What about if you don't notice any hydraulic chatter but your brakes are kind of grinding sound in unless it's coming back up through the roll guard they do stop really good both pedals go down the same way not further than the other or I could just be getting used to how this tractor operates
Hey John I had a line leaking under my floor pan on a 3010. While taking the floor pan out of the way I pulled my brake pedals forward with a ratchet strap . Left it like that a couple days. After the ratchet strap was removed and everything back together my brakes was locked up . Released the brakes by loosing the brake lines and relieving the pressure. Now every time I hit the brakes I lose all hydraulics. Steering, 3 Point hitch everything. Got any ideas what I’ve done to the brake system? Seems to be the left brake more that the right one. Thanks for any advice you can give me.
I would put a 3000 psi gauge in one of the outlets in the back and then move the hydraulic lever and hold the hydraulic lever to see how high the gauge goes. You want 2250. Then hit the brake pedal and see what it does. Do the pedals feel squishy or do they move differently? There's a bleed screw towards the top slightly back from Top Center by each axle housing will be a jam nut on a bolt loosen a jam nut and then just turn that bull to quarter-turn or after and lose and then and then push one brake pedal down at a time and you'll hear it pump oil and then you can shut that screw
The left pedal don’t come up as high as the right after pulling it forward with the strap. I really never put enough pressure to bend anything Everything worked perfect before taking it apart. After work about a hour I hit the brake the last time I used it and the left brake started dragging. I released the pressure with that bleeder with the jam nut. But as long as I can go and not hit the brakes I can work it all day. I shut the tractor off let it sit about 30 minutes came back out after starting it up it took a few seconds for anything to work but everything worked great again. Just can’t use the brakes. I never thought to try to use just the right brake at the time. I also changed the hydraulic fluid filters and the suction screen was spotless. No brake pad material at all in it. Craziest thing I’ve seen yet . I don’t have a manual on it yet. Hopefully it’ll come by the weekend.
@@tchogworks1987 I wonder if you're not losing hydraulic because you're pushing the clutch in which stops the charge pump. And then a leak in the brake valve you're just losing your oil. Under each spring pedal there should be a rubber boot, and there's a guide and plunger underneath that boot inside the hydraulic part of the brake valve oh, I wonder if them guides aren't stuck. There's a good chance you're pulling that brake valve off oh, you might as well order the Piston guide spring and adjuster bolt it comes as a unit. You get two of them and then new rubber boots and an o-ring kit
question: my 4430 will not move forward without engaging diff lock or pressing right brake. any ideas? im in northern mn and waiting on this to start my second cutting of hay so thank you for this video to head me in a decent direction! axle tear out starting tonight hoping I can figure it out from there.
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 no it won’t turn with transmission in park. I may have figured out the issue now. Wheel wedges broke so axle was spinning inside the wheel. 🤦♂️🤷🏼♂️
