This video is mainly for me to see how my engine and jet pump are behaving while under power. It also serves as an example of how this engine runs on a 1648 flat bottom when setup properly.
Hello, love the videos. I wanted to make a suggestion and hope it don’t offend you. I specialize in getting outboard jets to perform and noticed you have a lot of water hitting the front of the volute. If you add a plate at the bottom of your transom about 1.5 times the width of the shoe on the same plane as your hull bottom, this will hold that water down and increase your speed and hole shot. The speed increase will come from less drag. Hole shot improvement will come from (1) plate will act like a mono trim tab. (2) plate holding water down and off the volute will also create less drag on hole shot. By the way, that is a sweet sounding twin, great job on the build. How are you liking the Boyesen reeds over factories?
James Curry thanks for the advice I appreciate it! And yes I already knew this I just haven’t gotten around to welding one on. I actually have one made up...just need to get to the welding shop. As for the reeds, oh my goodness it’s like the difference in daylight and darkness. I love them!
Hey man, met you out there in Sparta about a year or two ago. We’re friends on Facebook, I have the same model Johnson, except it’s a 40hp! We gotta go hook some musky sooon!
Looks Good- Is this 20" long shaft motor before you put jet pump on? How tall is your transom w/ the jack plate? Maybe 25" I have prop 70 Johnson trying to get idea how much transom build up need - thnx, jack
The transom on this boat is 22”. It was made for a 15” jet engine. This particular engine is 20” and ran fine. I now have a 15” engine on this boat. A proper jet transom for a 20” engine should measure 27”.
J McCracken thank you! The actual jet pump can be bought online or direct from Outboard Jets in California. The adapter plate I made myself in a machine shop.
@@TN_MuskyAddiction I've blueprinted a few bottoms in my time, and I don't understand your logic. How would the hook create that plashing? A hook pushes the stern up, and the bow down, and the water coming off from the stern will be angled down, not up in that short of a distance. If nothing had been changed as of yet, judging by this video, I'd say you were about ½ an inch too low. Now you say you have moved to motor up, but you are also having the hook fixed. My guess is that you'll need to move up even more as you will probably find your stern settling in lower after the hook is gone, as the water coming off from the bottom wil flow straight. Just some thoughts.
ABOlsen69X thanks for the input. I know exactly what's going on here and I'm welding a new 1/8" bottom on it for the fix. Yes I will likely have to raise it a tad to readjust. Thanks for the comment!
ABOlsen69X also I didn't read your entire comment. Let me explain the hook. It is forcing water down so that I have to run the jet lower to hold good water pressure. Running it lower is causing the splashing...it's not rocket science.
@@TN_MuskyAddiction Well yes. That's what I said in my comment. I'm well aware of what the hook is doing. However, in this video I simply stated that it ran low, even factoring in the hook and the downward angle of the water coming off the bottom. No matter. Hope it works out and runs great when the hook is gone. Good luck with it all.
20" shaft on this one. I have a 15" mid I'm going to put on this summer and convert this to a short shaft. That is an AK pump with a custom CNC'd adapter plate I made. An AK pump is typically for a Mercury 40-60hp 2-stroke.
Is their another way we can communicate? More. I Have have some pointed questions I would like to chat via phone if able at some point , I have a Johnson 55c .
@@user-ju3ns2cz1u I don't know if RU-vid still has messaging or not. I definitely will not post my phone number here in the comments section. If we can figure out another way of communication I'd be willing to answer your questions. If you do not have CNC access then making this adapter will be extremely hard and not feasible.
I have a 3d printer I make test piece then send file to CNC , usually DXF . I totally get ya on putting info on the net. I didn’t see message Ill look into it .
Rocketman91638 it’s a good looking motor. I’m wanting to get a 60/40 jet tiller. We have a 25 Johnson jet tiller handle we run on eleven point. It’ll run 29 with one person. But it’s got carp work done to it.
Wondering if I should put a Jack plate on my jet, I can't find any video of the proper height that a jet outboard should be to the bottom of the boat. Do you have a rule of thumb that you follow for proper height of an outboard jet to the bottom of the boat?
paul murray yes this is for a boat with no tunnel....for a 15” shaft your transom needs to be 22” tall. For a 20” shaft (most larger jets) your transom should be 27” tall. I would highly recommend a jack plate from Vance Manufacturing because they have a center draw screw that makes adjustments almost effortless. You can get one for around $200 and they are made in TN.
There's NO drawback installing a jack. That being a simple manual or a hydraulic. I've yet to see a boat that did not like a bit of setback, and it will allow you to set your height precisely. You cannot get the same gains as you can with a prop of course, but the fact that you can get the inlet as close to the surface as possible, still means better performance. Seeing how much money people spend on their outboard boats, being it a jet, bass, ski or runabout, I simply don't understand why so many don't get a jackplate as one of the first upgrades.
Cody Ferran that’s not the intention of this video. Videos of this engine are hard to find on RU-vid so I wanted to put up an HD video for people to watch.
