Johnson / Evinrude fuel pump service 

You're welcome mate, good luck with the renovation. :)

😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😮😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😮

Glad to hear it is running well again. :)

You're welcome mate. :)

Glad I could help!

Hey Jim. I know the ones you are talking about, I really should grab some. I've never really had any trouble in the past with regular ties if the hose is in good shape, but buying a pack of the correct style wouldn't be a bad thing. We have a rack of different size stainless steel hose clamps, but they do need a bit of space around them and I don't find they work on small hoses like the outlet that well.

Stu, that's probably why the OEMs use those little wire hose clamps. I have a few I got from Picknpay one day- I went through and grabbed a heap from radiator over flow hoses, PCV and other low pressure hose clamps. I paid an extra $5 for about 100 of them, a bargain in dollar terms, damn expensive in terms of my labour and driving time.

I have a 140hp 1988 Johnson too and was having the same issue what’s the part number for the new pump?

@@fanciscovargas2559 Sorry but I can't remember for sure where I got it. Got it online. Check I-boats, Boats.net, Marine engine.com, Crowley marine or some of the other ones online.

Hey Ron, for sure, you can never do too much cleaning while something is apart. I always get a bit torn between giving a video a single searchable topic and running through all the things I would do while I was there. I was pleased to see there was no sign of varnish or fuel lining in the pump's mesh. That always gives me a fair bit of confidence they are still fine.

Thanks Ted. I find these premix bottles really save times when you are trying to get out of the house in a rush in the morning. ;)

I too am wondering what size screws to mount fuel pump.

@dangar marine

Could be a carb tuning issue or a problem with the cold-start enrichement system being stuck on, or partially on.

Yes, that can be a problem. Good idea to use a feeler gauge to keep them in place. :)

Hey Jack. In this case I am just using this motor as an excuse to film all these common jobs, but I would certainly consider doing this as a general service job every 5-10 years depending on use.

The basic principles will be the same. It may not have the second vacuum hose though.

Yes.

Do the carburettors still have fuel in them when it cuts out? Does it still have spark?

if pumping from the tank the engine continues well

he problem that the engine runs out of fuel

Won't hurt and with the boats with inbuilt tanks they always have a larger fuel filter with a fine cartridge to avoid cleaning the tank regularly.

3 ounces of tcw3 certified oil per gal aprox 50:1 in 87 or 89 octane non ethanol gas super tech tcw3 at Walmart 13.00 per gal or a semi synthetic tcw3 for HD use of motor might run cleaner on semi synthetic oil .

Found the problem. Throttle cable seized

In-between the mounting screws you'll see a hole that leads to the crankcase. The back of your fuel pump mates up to that hole and the power pulses of the motor creates a vacuum pressure that pushes and pulls the diaphragm of the fuel pump.

That's right. Unfortunately they had to stop due to their suppliers restricting their region that they had the rights to sell to.

It depends on the style of fuel pump. Many only require a single vacuum source.

Having the same problem . Went through my whole carb and that didn’t fix . Did u find the problem ?

Once it has been primed fully it shouldn't be any harder to start with the separator.

Certainly sounds like a fuel pump problem. Either that or the needle was sticking in the seat in the float bowl.

@@DangarMarine Got a gasket kit for the fuel pump and rebuilt it today. Took it in the bay and it took off! Worked like new. Then at one point I slowed down and could never get back to speed again.

Welcome

Maybe the new diaphragm got pinch or folded over when going back together.

It could be an issue with the primer solenoid providing too much fuel ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BrBj2p4A8xQ.html

@@DangarMarine Stu, thank you! Would that explain why this issue presents when the engine is warm but not when cold?

Good question. I have the exact same problem. Mine warmed up and ran like a top for a bit then started dieing and surging then quits. In this order I'll try checking the gas for water, cleaning the carb again, and checking the rebuild of the pump. Any other suggestions are welcome.

I would start by checking the spark plugs. If the tips are very black it means it is running very rich. This could mean it needs a carb adjustment or the choke mechanism is stuck on. If not, it could be a leak somewhere.

ok thank you very much, do you think that the gas pump or the diaphragm is damaged ?, is that when going to high speed I have to be injecting gasoline with the knob because it slows down if you do not inject gasoline

Sounds like it needs a carburettor clean.

@@DangarMarine what would be the best way to clean everything really good

Just about any 75w-85 gl-5 gear oil is fine.

Take a look at the models about it (40-50HP) and see if they share the same engine block. It may just be a matter of changing the carburettor jets and reed valves.

It can be quite tricky to track down noises like that. Listening around with a mechanics stethoscope can be a good way to go.

Given those symptoms I would definitely start with a carburettor clean.

LOL, no, but it would probably work!

@@DangarMarine Hahahaha

Check your starter mounts are not cracked- especially the cast alloy ones that are part of the engine block. That fuel pump gasket is required so don't leave it out. As the fuel pump and starter don't move when in use, the two parts touching is of no major concern , there is no relative movement so they wont chafe on each other. You can also try pushing the pump over a bit on the monting bolts to gain a mm or so of clearance - the bolts holes are not a tight fit.

Ron Powell. Thank you sir. All looks fine as far as the mounts. It’s weird the way the pump is mounted. Kinda at an angle on an aluminum bracket. I just bought this boat and I’ve been fighting this outboard since October😡. For instance, I have no idea what year make or model it is. Can’t read the sticker. Then I found out it’s a rebuilt power head, so the freeze plug has a different number. Sry to complain. But I am installing the gasket for sure now. Thanks again.

I know what you mean about those stickers not being readable after a while, it certainly is a pain. Strange about the clearance. If you really can't get things to fit with the factory gasket you could try making a thinner one. A very small vacuum leak probably wouldn't even be noticeable.

Thanks Stu. I’ll do that. I guess the factory gasket is so thick for a different models clearance.

Update. Hopefully this could help someone. It turns out that my Johnson 70hp 3 cylinder was “formerly” a VRO model. The fuel pump doesn’t have an opening where the center hole is, so I left that gasket out. Stu, I have a question though. The previous mechanic had the main fuel line running to the bottom carburetor on the fuel line assembly. I would think it would run better to the top carb. What are your thoughts(any input will help)? Thanks.

If you can get a new one for a good price it is certainly a valid way to go.

Not sure, but I look at the parts diagrams on MarineEngine.com and compare the part numbers when trying to find things like this out.

Yes, that's right.

ok thank you !

Bruce Wagenberg prime the bulb until stiff. You’ll see a leak in the fuel pump. It’ll be obvious

These videos are the only outboard vids i watch very easy to understand explained in the way i think know special tool improvise

Hey James, that's a great suggestion, makes a lot of sense. Thanks for mentioning it. :)

Thanks Matt. I'll try to grab an old Tohatsu one day to do the same series of video on, particularly as all the smaller Mercury motors are made by Tohatsu too.

Dangar Marine Thanks again. That would be wonderful. Looks beautiful in Dangar i hope someday to visit. Much love from Chesapeake Maryland U.S.

There are special tools for tightening tie-wraps. They pull to a certain force and then cut the remaining part. You can buy then at a good E store. For cutting a tie-wrap flat and save you can use a small, flat bottom pliers. They are sold in E stores but also in Modelmaking stores.

Christina- cable ties are not great hose clamps I agree- I have earned some great money chasing down air leaks in pitot static systems because people used them inappropriately. When you have to pull a wing off to get to some tubes it chews up a lot of hours very quickly. However, on thick wall rubber like those fuel lines, using cable ties above a barbed pipe end, and only tight enough to act as hose retainer, cable ties are ok. It would be preferable to use hose clamps , but Stu isn't even sure that the motor will run yet. A good source for hose camps is car wrecking yards, those ones that let you remove your own bits from the wrecks. Most yards let you have 10-20 fuel hose clamps if you take them when getting some car part or other. I have a small stash of those 'wire ' ones the car people love putting on radiator over flow hoses, windscreen washer lines etc.

I agree the curved back type are better, but when the hose is in good condition I've just never had any trouble to worry about them. Having said that, I mostly use stainless steel hose clamps for the bulk of the work we do but I just avoid using them to unless they are really needed to keep the cost down. I should find a back of proper fuel ties to keep in the workshop one day though.

Thank you for the comments, but, when I pay a pro I expect a proper job. I should not have to have taken the boat back two times to have me told nothing was wrong. I found the problem on my own. Dealer never received any business from me again even after I informed him of what was going on he denied it and I told him in a very nice way. So if it cost me another 20 dollars so what I paid him 350 dollars for the job, what is another 20 dollars to have it right'

I believe they are #10-24 x 1 3/4 inch bolts. Which you probably won't find. So just buy ones that are 2 inches long, and cut them down - or add a bunch of washers.

@@wolfjackman2795 Thank you WJM

Jim Banks think I have the same issue, not reving more than half in water and forward gear. Did you manage to solve it at your motor?

torbjörn petersson I brought it to another mechanic and he cleaned the carb. I changed fuel tank and put in new fuel. New spark plugs. It still has the same issue. Dropped it off today again, he’ll double check the electrical

Jim Banks, I put in new plugs, meassured compression, checked sparks, ignition timing att idle and low speed is ok (can not test att high rpm since apx 2000 rpm is the limit. The pump does pump fuel at idle and low speed, disconnected sensor for overheating - no change. Did fiddle with linkage and tuning the carborettor. Nothing works...Im into changing the pump to eliminate malfunction in that one, replace tha coil, the pump and the CDI-package.

torbjörn petersson I’ll keep you posted for the mechanics assessment tomorrow 👍

Hey Andrew, replacing the whole pump is often a great way to go. Unfortunately in my case though it doesn't make for a very long video. ;)

Good point!

To much play on mag plate can cause sneezing

Thanks mate. Boat build has stalled a little bit to to money and the availability of plywood but it should be going again within a week or two.