Husqvarna 365 & 365 "Special" is the same 48mm top end as your 2165 in orange, all OE ( Original Edition ) cylinder designs. The 371, 372xp , 2071, and 2171 are ALL Original Edition 50mm Quad port saws. A 375, 372xpw are 51.4mm Original Edition Cylinders. In approx. 2010 X--torqs happened. Added weight and 1/2" to the height of those things. A 2166 is essentially a 2172 ( 372 Xtorq ) with the caps on the transfer ports with a little fin cast inside to cut x sectional area. "Detune". Take a 2166 , or Husqvarna 365 ( After 2010 X-torq ) grind out those fins and you have essentially a 2172 (372xp). Add the high top filter and u match a 372XP. Add the new ignition and you .... you get the drift.
@@davidwyby nope, open filters which are great for firewood and GTG's, makes a HUGE difference on power. But useless in the woods when I'm harvesting timber
Thing is, you can run a long bar on any of them. You just stay in wood the saw can handle. I'm the guy that runs a twenty inch bar on a mini-mac. Not because I want to cut twenty inch wood, but because it extends my reach with the saw. I will over bar any of them if I can. You get into wood it can't handle, go to the truck, and get that bigger saw you brought. A big saw will wear you out on small stuff, and a small saw will wear you out on big stuff. Right tool. Right job. I'm with you on the twenty four inch bar. Pretty handy. Anything over eighteen inches is kinda long around here.
I REALLY like the 2165,2171,and 2186. The Amish around me did too. They would walk into the woods and not come out for six days. They could depend on them.
Great video, I enjoy your content. I agree with you on long bars on sub 65cc saws. I personally find a 24" bar to be comfortable on those, but that is my opinion and isn't for everyone.
I have a block that clips on to my work belt which is also my carry belt for my pistol. My saw rests on it bucking is nice cause I don't have to carry the weight all day. For that reason I prefer 60-70cc with 28-32" light bars usually stihl since they are the lightest and balance perfect for a 70cc. I like small saws too well I like anything that spins a chain but when I've got to switch to one for work it feels like I have to get down and dirty vs big saw with long bar feels like coasting.
Everyone is under the misconception that if you have a 24, or a 32, or a whatever you must instantly go bury it that deep. That's not the case. It's to have as much reach as you can without it getting in your way. The "can cut larger wood sometimes" part is a bonus. I think if you put in a week of 6-8 hour days just felling, limbing, and bucking you'd see the light. I liked a shorter bar until I started putting in major hours on a saw. As long as you are going to give your opinion on bars.. i'm going to retort with mine. There are newer people that are going to look to you for advice and i'd hate to lose them from the hobby/profession because their non-ergonomic equipment choices led to them tapping out due to (unnecessary) pain. A longer bar can be a lifesaver. Period. And i'm not going to specify what "longer" means because that depends on your height, your wood, and your terrain.
Long bars are fine when you really need them , but i hate the extra weight to tug around .24” bar is my main size for 70cc saws. 18-20” on 50-60cc except my ported saws i sometimes run 24”. Saws feel more nimble with shorter bars , longer bars also where out the av mounts faster , and stress the saw more.
Long bars are regional if you ask me. If your falling trees in the northwest, your going to need a long bar. I’m in Northwest Florida, 24” is all I need. People get too caught up in the long bar from what they are seeing rather than what they are needing. Just my opinion.
Long bars also have a better tendency to be a damn trip hazard when you're working on hilly or thick terrain. They get in the way, and they're cumbersome in the thick woods.
I believe I second you on the long bar, only and only if you cut big stuff all day. 24" is a good size, 28" is about the max I would ever wanna deal with.
On my 372xp original edition i use a 18" bar and i cut some big wood with it. Feels a bit more lightweigth than a long bar! And yeah i use a long bar if i need it! If not i like more the short ones! Keep it up!
I like my 372xp oe with a 20" very aggressive chain. Flies through stuff. Will fall and limb in one go without swapping saws all the time to save your back.
I have a whole bunch of different bars! I run a whole bunch of different chainsaws. What works good in my yard might not work good in your yard. Everybody has an opinion! Myself I'm just glad that the Indians didn't give the pilgrims a donkey for their Thanksgiving dinner! Instead of a turkey. Because we'd I'll be getting a piece of ass for dinner Thanksgiving Day. Keep up the great videos.
Husqvarna 365 vs 372. If they are on the same chassis and close to the same weight, what's the point of selling 2 sizes? I think it's marketing to be able to sell one for $50 more. The manufacturing price differences is pennies. My first saw was a 51 and I didn't want to pay the extra for a 55. The only difference is cylinder and piston.
@@alexstromberg7696 still pointless, why lug around a 22lbs saw to do the same thing a 9lbs saw can do. All it’s going to do is prematurely wear you out and use more fuel doing it. There are plenty of 50cc class saws that will cut just about the same speed with a 20.
I tend to agree with you. Fortunately, I have several different sizes of saws to keep me from needing to run a longer bar on an underpowered saw. You kind of touched on one aspect of doing so: balance. The powerhead of a cs -590 with a 28”+ bar will feel like you’re carrying your bar with a powerhead pimple on it. I have zero qualms about running a 27” on a cs-680; as it’s a much heavier powerhead and a more powerful saw. However, I’ve not needed to do so as a 24” is perfect on that saw. A 20” on the 680 makes no sense when I have the 590 (again a lighter powerhead) which runs it fantastically. Boedy, I like your channel and find you personally entertaining in your delivery of fact-based opinions. The only problems I have with you is: (1) you’re too busy to respond to comments; and (2) you look too much like a swine nephew of mine that I impulsively want to beat on every time he mistakenly comes within arms reach. Thank God you don’t act like that fool! 😂
Folks Probly should leave feelings at the there Home Screen. Don’t get butt hurt when someone says there opinions. We all have them and they all don’t line up with eachother. This is the best part of learning. When we differ in opinions.
Maybe you want to run longer than a 20" but what if you dont need to? I think you should always try to run the shortest bar possible. The tree has two sides. Bore from both sides and you will not need a 32" for everything. My 036 is currently running a 16" bar.
Really depends what you use it for. I chunk down with a ms362 light bar 25" for reach. 200T 14", 500i/372 with 20" (keep one ground for soft wood and one for hard), ms660 30". Rarely ever fire up the 660. 346xpg 13" does probably 40% of my work. But.. we're European, different mindsets and traditions
Any body else want to see this battle cause it's the fact of it's a fair fight. Nobody wants to do it please give us an observation of the two 45 cc saw . I believe Stihl maybe 46cc.
Poeple poeple the big bars are used for falling big diameter trees bucking large diameter to smaller diameter parts of the tree then change to a smaller bar for lighter weight to use from then on
@@alexstromberg7696 I suggest you go to Buckin Billys page and watch his video on kickback. Or you can go to my channel and see me 10 years ago running a saw as I still do nearly daily. Experience my friend not a calculator tells me what creates kickback son.
The entire video is kind of pointless isnt it? Everybody thats run that saw knows it can pull a 36, but why do you keep banging on about how you wouldnt run a 28 on it, its kinda irrelevant like you made up a topic of discussion but theres nothing to discuss....
