Jorg Verhoeven Free Climbs The Nose | Full Documentary 

Alex free soloed his climb there were no ropes in case they were needed, big difference mentally

@@michaelcollums4197 Yes, but what does this have to do with my comment?

@@michaelcollums4197 Alex himself hasn’t freed the nose! Even with a rope. Check yourself.

So Mr. Honnold has something to apologize for ?

@@13Omega37 So, soloing Freerider is less an achievement than climbing the Nose with a rope? And the belayer's progress on the nose isn't aided by resting on gear? I believe you, but many won't.

wait ... usually Americans don't have 30 vacation days .... I mean they barely have two weeks vacation per year... sooo I don't know ... I got 30 vacation days and I'm just working a stupid job 😉 but I guess here in Germany we r lucky that way...

I think it's Europeans who take naps at the office everyday.

@@billbally4419 that's why we healthy, fool... 🤣🤣🤣 fer sher dood

Heck, peeps nowadays spend 30 days on a boulder problem…

@@clu4u hey ... it's a pretty big boulder 🤣🤣🤣

They've got ropes! There's nothing to sweat.

Cables has its own dangers... the human factor

I second this notion

It’s a song by Michael Wideburg (it’s on Spotify)

@@mennoruppert6974 It's also on RU-vid. Michael Wideburg - Yosemite.

Michael Wideburg - Yosemite

Lynn Hill

@@eclipsearchery9387 I am certain that is not true

@@hummerchinethat would be close to impossible, would love to see a super crusher do every pitch w/o falling

I don't think there has been a no-falls ascent of The Nose as of yet (2023). Happy to be corrected.

I don't think there has been a no falls free ascent. Tommy Caldwell did it in 12 hours and fell twice.

Probably just a different shot? I also wouldn’t be surprised if the close shots from under the roof were taken before or after his actual red point ascent.

@@Mike-oz4cv At no point was it stated he did a red point. A free climb doesn't have to be a red point.

I got another question. Why do climbers eat dried food if they are bringing their own water too? And there is another crack on the not so far left that make it possible to reach the bolt you can see it on the bottom and than disapears behind the corner. Another question for you: Why you not askin why the bolt below is not used?

I had the same question, my guess: he climbs up in a crack to the left of changing corner, clips the bolt in question, climbs down again a bit to where it is possible to traverse into changing corner. The situation at 18:17 gives an overview, Jorg with the red helmet starts in the crack system on the left, the crux of the changing corner pitch is directly above Angelo, white helmet. With this beta the unused lower bolt doesn't make sense to clip.

@@patwaser6453 beautiful explanation. This also explains Aaron’s question. T. U.

Any film with Lynn Hill ❤❤❤

Maybe the video shot is not from his actual red point success but from an earlier try where he left the rope clipped in?

I think it's the 2014 film that has been re-uploaded on RU-vid.

Alex and Tommy did the nose in under 2h, but that was speed climbing, not free climbing.

​@@morbideddie so they aid climbed it?

@@Monscent yes, speed climbing on the nose uses a mixture or free and aid climbing. So it isn’t a free climb, I don’t think Alex has ever free climbed the nose.

Michael Wideburg - Yosemite

No.

Free climbing is simply climbing without aid. Ropes are allowed to protect from falls but cannot be used to support the climbers weight or progress up the wall.

@@morbideddie . Thanks. what is it alex Honold does then?

@@tonycullen5415 Alex is best known for free soloing. Meaning that it’s free climbing (not using aid) without a partner or protection.

Aid: Progress upward can be made using equipment such as a nylon ladder or pulling on anchor equipment or the rope itself. Free: Progress is only made with your body and the rock, but equipment can be used to protect you from a fall. Solo: No climbing partner. So "free solo" means you only made progress with the rock and had no climbing partner, so no fall protection. The keyword is "solo." Rope Solo: No climbing partner, but self-belay devices and rope are used to protect from a fall. This can be done free or aided.

Sort of yes, sort of no. From www.nps.gov: "Drilling protection bolts for climbing is permitted in Yosemite as long as it is done by hand. Motorized power drills are prohibited. The National Park Service does not inspect, maintain, or repair bolts and other climbing equipment anywhere in the park. Beyond this simple rule, there is a strong community bolting ethic in Yosemite. If you plan to bolt a new route or alter an existing one, talk with local climbers who are familiar with Yosemite’s route history and traditions before permanently altering the cliff face. No one wants to see the rock damaged by bolts being placed and chopped."

Free climbing (as stated here) means climbing without mechanical help, using only your body to advance, while a rope is there to save you in case of a fall. Free solo on the other hand, means climbing without any safety gear.

@@benediktmerl4510 Yeah, just to hammer the point home, the key word is "solo." The word "free" just means you only made progress with your body and the rock, no equipment was used to help make progress, only protection. If you combine the word "free" and "solo" or just say "solo" that's when no protection is used, no rope. So many get caught up on the word "free" and get confused. Look for the word "solo" if you want to know when there's no protection.

Finally, a man of culture and fine pleasures!

@@wiredweird4953 I even gave them a motorboat!!

That's soloing. Free climbing is when you only use the rock and your body to make progress, but you can use ropes and anchors to protect you if you fall. Just to hammer the point home, the key word is "solo." The word "free" just means you only made progress with your body and the rock, no equipment was used to help make progress, only protection. If you combine the word "free" and "solo" or just say "solo" that's when no protection is used, no rope. So many get caught up on the word "free" and get confused. Look for the word "solo" if you want to know when there's no protection.

Also, Alex climbed Freerider, a totally different and easier (not saying easy, just much easier) route. This is The Nose, which Alex has not free climbed. He did a speed climb of it as a mixed climb using both free and aid (where you can use equipment to make upward progress).

He free climbed the nose, not free solo. So he didn’t climb it without a rope. No-one will likely ever free solo the nose.

Aid: Progress upward can be made using equipment such as a nylon ladder or pulling on anchor equipment or the rope itself. Free: Progress is only made with your body and the rock, but equipment can be used to protect you from a fall. Solo: No climbing partner. So "free solo" means you only made progress with the rock and had no climbing partner, so no fall protection. The keyword is "solo." Rope Solo: No climbing partner, but self-belay devices and rope are used to protect from a fall. This can be done free or aided.

Alex Honold didn't climb this route without ropes.

How often do you hang out 2,000 ft above the ground with only a rope between you and death? I'm guessing not very often. It's still scary.

"Only a rope" = (pretty much) no chance of death. You get used to being on the end of one.

That's free soloing free = the route is climbed free (as it is in this video) solo = no rope

@@koszonet To clarify "the route is climbed free" means you only made progress with your body and the rock. Protection is allowed, ropes and anchors, but cannot be used to make upward progress, only save you from a fall. But yes, excellent call out on the word "solo." That's the keyword. So many get caught up on the word "free" and get confused. Look for the word "solo" if you want to know when there's no protection.

google is free

why have you put free in inverted commas

@@koszonet Inverted commas 🤣 They're just called single quotes.

Because they can... It's the curse of social media: people with not very much actual knowledge or experience are able to anonymously share their opinions with the world.

Disrespectful

@@Monscent The exact opposite. These are wildly different accomplishments both at the top tier of climbing. Respecting that difference is important.

Different and much easier route. It’s an apples to oranges comparison.

Alex climbed Freerider, a totally different and easier (not saying easy, just much easier) route. This is The Nose, which Alex has not free climbed. He did a speed climb of it as a mixed climb using both free and aid (where you can use equipment to make upward progress). The Nose has only been free climbed by maybe 7 people since it was first ascended in 1975 and took until 1993 for Lynn Hill to become the first ever to free climb it.

? you do it then

Because bonking your head against the rock can lead to serious injury. Rock falls from above you can kill you without a helmet.

Alex free soloed freerider, a different and easier route on the same wall.

@@morbideddiethanks for the info, now it make sense.👍

“free-climbing” refers to just relying on the gear already there or the gear you placed. So, he used the bolts and trad gear (the gear that climbers places like cams and nuts) and climbed under his own power. Free soloing is climbing without the use of ropes or gear

@@blainehartness2322 Thanks, I didn't know the climbing terminology. Again, great video (ropes and all. Ha).

@@dallasharlow4431 Just to attempt to further explain: 'Free climbing' means the bolts and gear are used only as protection in case you fall. Progress up the wall is done using your hands, feet, and body to push and pull against the natural features of the rock. 'Aid climbing' means that the climber uses bolts and gear to push and pull on instead of the natural features of the rock. Additionally, even when free climbing big walls the route is broken down into smaller sections call 'pitches'. There are often periods between completing a pitch where the climber will not be free climbing, but instead use a rope that is fixed above them in order to more easily move themselves and their gear up the wall. Or after completing a pitch they might use the rope to move down to their camp spot on the wall (a portable ledge). The idea of free climbing a big wall route is to start at the bottom and then free climb each pitch in sequence until you get to the top, but the end of each pitch is kind of like a 'save point' in a video game where you may pause to rest or move gear before free climbing the next pitch of the route. Sometimes this is not the case as on some other routes people like Tommy Caldwell have speed climbed where they and a partner are able to continually make upward progress without having to use fixed ropes to move a camp setup and gear, but instead may just pause (or not) for a brief rest after each pitch. While one person is free climbing the partner is anchored to the wall in order to belay the free climber in case they fall... unless the pair is 'simul-climbing' which means both people are actively climbing: one at the top of the rope and the other at the bottom. There is also such a thing as 'rope soloing' where you are 'free climbing' by yourself, but still use a rope and belay gear to protect yourself against falling. Then of course there is just straight up 'free soloing' where the climbing is done with no rope and no partner. As you noticed there is a lot of terminology and nuance. This is why they mention in the video that it is important to be open about what style of climbing that you are doing when talking about it or claiming an achievement. It can sometimes be hard for non climbers to fully understand the differences. I'm not an expert or authority and I may have got something wrong in my explanation, but hopefully you find the aditional information useful.

@@ajc1080 Just one addition: Speed climbing records are often not free climbed. I.e. the climbers pulled on quick draws or stepped on bolts to get up faster.

@@Mike-oz4cv Yep, e.g. Alex and Tommy speed climbed The Nose as a mixed free and aid climb, but Alex has never free climbed it.

He didn't do this route without ropes. He did Freerider which is an easier ascent. Still impressive but this isn't what honnold did

"free climbing" means that you can only use your body for progressing up on the wall and you can't do swings or use aid climbing gear, "free solo" means that you avoid using secures :)

You’ve confused free climbing with solo climbing. To free climb a route simply means to climb without the aid of gear, sending the route entirely under one’s own power with a rope only for safety. Solo climbing is climbing unroped.

@@minh-khanguyen7209 Nah this is false too. Solo climbing simply means climbing alone, one can rope solo and that involves a rope. Free climbing implies climbing unaided. Combine free and solo and you climb unaided and alone (which implies lack of pro and rope)

@@piercecooke9649 but rope soloing *is* unaided and alone, which would meet your definition of 'free solo', which is incorrect.

@@koszonet Rope soloing is the furthest thing from unaided climbing possible... You're rappelling the route to clean your gear. Sure you 'free' climb the pitches but then you aid down the route to clean and then dumar back up your fixed line. How is that unaided exactly?

That's what free climbing is

Nope.

Nope.

That would be a poor decision. This route was first established in 1975, it took until 1993 to free climb it (Lynn Hill), and to this day less than 10 people have ever free climbed it. Adding the risk of soloing would be a deathwish. There's a reason Alex did his free solo of Freerider, a completely different and easier (not saying easy, easier) route.

@@error.418 but 30 years...time to go all in or nothing

He didn't solo the nose

@@camdenburke3039 now that would be insane

He hasn't even free climbed the Nose!

@@GosseBoardyes he has, with Tommy Caldwell, they have the fastest Ascent. Free solo of it would be utterly insane tho.

@@theashen I think, as people mention above, free climbing means that the equipment you use only is for safety and not for aiding your way up. You climb with your hands and feet on the rock only and just clip in to bolts or anchor yourself in with the rope for fall protection, not for helping you upwards. In the speed ascent of Tommy and Alex they swing with the ropes, pull on gear, use ascension tools to pull themselves up ropes and so on. Nothing wrong, that's the name of the game in speed climbing, but therefore a different type of climb, especially when it comes to the difficult parts. Free solo is then the next step of free climbing where you climb in the same manners, but without any protection. Cheers!

He climbed an easier route. And spent WAY more time than Jorg practicing.

Incorrect and comparing apples and oranges. Both achievements are laudable and difficult to compare. Also neither has done the other. Alex has never free climbed The Nose (only 7 people have since 1975 when it was first ascended, with the first free climb in 1993 by Lynn Hill). Alex has done a speed climb of The Nose with Tommy, but it was a mixed free and aided climb. Obviously Jorg has never soloed Freerider, which is a completely different and easier (not saying easy, just much easier) climb with the added difficulty of soloing.

Go climb The Nose with a rope. Oh wait, you don't have the ability. And, yes, it is free climbing because he didn't use aid gear. No one said anything about free soloing. Stop commenting before you do some simple google searches. It makes you look stupid.

There's a difference between 'free solo' 'free climbing' and 'aid climbing'. Thousands of people have aid climbed The Nose. The list of people that have free climbed it is much shorter (when Jorg did this in 2014 he was the fourth person to do it). The number of people that have free soloed The Nose is exactly zero.

Aid: Progress upward can be made using equipment such as a nylon ladder or pulling on anchor equipment or the rope itself. Free: Progress is only made with your body and the rock, but equipment can be used to protect you from a fall. Solo: No climbing partner. So "free solo" means you only made progress with the rock and had no climbing partner, so no fall protection. The keyword is "solo." Rope Solo: No climbing partner, but self-belay devices and rope are used to protect from a fall. This can be done free or aided.

try 3 thousand feet...lol