13:57 - Yes, the connector's gender is defined by the pins. Some people continue to be confused (in RC for example) so if you are ordering only one gender be sure to double check the pictures before clicking the buy button.
ElmerFuddGun I guess there’s normally 4 things (female/male and plug/socket) and you can choose two... ahem wait a plug-socket doesn’t make sense. whatever, there hopefully will come the time when everyone gets it, what the correct descriptions is :D Edit: and then there is also to mention the differentiation between cable or case installed connection
Thanks! Those PCBs are exactly what I wanted. I'm going to put headers on them instead so I have a better breadboard than the cheaper plastic ones. I find that resistance is just too much and/or connections are a bit iffy.
Sockets can both be male or female, as can plugs. The application then determines which is more common, or the standard (like the requirement of touch protection for power outlets of any form most often demands female connectors). What does tend to determine the name, however, is therefore not the gender but rather the implementation: Sockets are the things fixed into a wall or case, and the plug is what's mobile and what goes into the fixed counterpart. - At least that is what I have been encountering so far.
Sockets can also be hermaphroditic :) A 'male' socket inserts inside a 'female' socket. If they both insert into each other, you can call them whatever you want. If both ends are identical, then the socket is hermaphroditic.
The UV glue rocks... its tough and sticks to anything slightly porous and most smooth stuff too ... I've used it to repair a chip in a porcelain bowl that's filled with oats and microwaved every morning - then washed. ... I've etched glass with a scribe, filled the marks with ink and then sealed that with UV glue ... been using it for over a year, its washed every day and is still stuck tight. I don't buy the pens, bottles advertised for tying fly fishing lures come in thick and thin and are ideal for repairs. I even glued a fingernail I tore right down to the quick. The repair grew out with the nail and was cut off with scissors. It's wonderful stuff. I don't know how it reacts with electrickery - but LOCTITE 480 BLACK INSTANT ADHESIVE is as good as its advertising. It sets almost instantly and sticks just about anything to anything (including metal) and won't let go. Well worth getting a bottle.
I got a bunch of those breadboards style proto-boards a week or so back Some were good,butt a few of the ones in the middle of the bundle weren't even fully etched... There was a section in the corner that was still mostly copper
pileofstuff, That's the free extra ground plane area. ;) // Julian, I found those little 9LED UV flashlights for $0.76USD on Ebay, and sometimes less with the penny auctions.
you can buy separate UV LEds too theyre super cheap .....so you can build all those retina-scorching UV clusters. I built a little flashlight with a 18650 that runs about 30 or 40 miliamps through one led ....my eyes itch a little I don't think its so good looking at that light too long....
Pretty sure the "refill" part of the UV glue title isn't suggesting its refillable, but rather its a "refill" cartridge for people who already have the entire pen thing that's run out of glue
I have noticed that most FR4 boards I have around fluoresce under UV, which means that they become more opaque at that wavelength. Still, you have all the stuff around you for a test, which should be rather easy and definitive
If you put the SMDs on the board and a dab of glue at the ends it would still hold the chips in place and you wouldn't have to worry about shining the torch through the board.
Regarding those prototyping boards (and the leaky glue pen for that matter), "Ebay -- the land of chinese factory seconds!" This would stop if enough people complained about defects like some of those that you pointed out and that I've seen mention of in the comments below. That other board you showed won't accomodate as much as one might think at first glace. You can only put chips straddling every other row of busses. I've looked at a lot of different prototyping boards over the years, and which one is best depends on what it is that you're trying to build. A circuit that involves many DIPs and not a whole lot else benefits from one layout, while a circuit that's mostly discrete components is going to benefit from another layout entirely. Radio Shack used to sell an assortment of boards, including the one you feature here. That one was a bit more expensive in terms of board real estate than most others, so I tended to avoid it. One other point, too -- have you noticed how most of these little modules and whatnot coming from Asia seem to have absolutely no provision for mounting? I have a number of different regulator and charging modules that I've been inspired to buy since I started watching your stuff, and almost all of them have either no provision for mounting at all or maybe one single hole that's so small that my local hardware store doesn't carry anything small enough to use with it. I wonder what's up with that? I guess they're figuring that whoever uses this stuff is going to be putting it into some custom-molded plastic case or something. Not good for the hobbyist market, though.
Ahh, nice. It's a nice warm day. My solar PV panels are generating lots of power. I'm sitting in the shade of a large holly tree and you upload a video 👍. Just the thing to do on a lazy summer afternoon 😀
I'm waiting for Julian to complete his MuPPeT (Maximum power point* transfer thingy) based on Arduino. Else, I'll have to do the damn thing myself. One company that came to my rescue during unemployment needs some kind of payback, and as they're a Finnish Environmental company, with very limited electronics capability (since I HAD to leave - Government rules) it's time to give something back. Their 'stations' are running on Solar power, charging a 12V battery via. a diode. In Summer, the batteries get 17V (Maybe more) and they cook! In winter, they're nadgered. (I should mention this is Northern Finland). *Nothing to do with Microsoft's PowerPoint. It's known as MPPT in 'the trade'.
Had a long reply about the UV Glue but YT lost it for whatever reason.. Long story short, the UV resin was an idea and product from a company named Bondic. During the go to market the lead engineer/developer died and it took years for the remaining member to honor his friend and go to market. In the meantime, Chinese got a hold of the formulae and started selling knockoff/clone products. The original Bondic products I've used now since the original Kickstarter but haven't tried the eBay sellers versions. Bondic website @ notaglue.com/ Thanks Julian!
Back to the electric Bike again? Battery chemistry will have moved on to the next great thing x 2 by the time you get it done. By the time its done you'll be look to add hover tech to it like on Back the Future. :)
I'd love to know more about your UV Torch. So many UV LED type torches, and comments saying UV LEDs are as effective as glass bulbs. What voltage does yours take? Many use AA or AAA batteries, either 1s1p or 3s1p. Some use 14500 3.7v Lithiums or regular 1.5v AA. I wonder do you use your eneloops in you torch? What is the watt rating of the bulb? And which wavelength UV (365/395/other nm) does it generate?
I dug around the internet. Looks like you have the "Convoy S2+" which typically comes with a 3w Nichia brand 365nm UVA LED. It takes an 18650 battery for power. Most sellers seem to include a 2000mah - 2400mah cell (if they include a cell)
Kinda like their 5w 2,500lm flashlights? I found that the Cree XL-M6 based lights (with adjustable focus) at $5 a pop to be very bright, but nowhere near their calculations. The same lights are said to have anywhere from 800lm to 2,500lm.
Louis rosman uses the uv cure glue on Mac repair when running a jumper wire and his hot air station does not melt the glue once cured. It was in a recent video, I will link it in comment if I find it
Dang. I was just looking for those pcbs on eBay. accecity2009's shop is empty now. I found another one with 5 boards for 8,99 EUR. Which is about 3.5 times more expensive.
Found some on ebay CA for 4EUR www.ebay.ca/itm/10x-DIY-Prototype-Paper-PCB-Experiment-Board-Bakelite-Circuit-Board-4-8x13-3cm/112951198754?hash=item1a4c6a8422:g:bW0AAOSw-tFa2a5k
0:23 - "as and when I need" - I would add "as and when *_6 to 8 weeks later_* I need"! Gotta predict the future when ordering all the way from China. There has to be something available locally at the dollar store, etc. And those aren't exactly cheap ($6.40).
maybe I should get some jlpcb breadboard prototyping boards ..... ive looked around but they are so expensive lol. ....and that way you could also build some pads for smd components in. ...........and holy shit julien whatever that thing at 7:20 is, its gotta be one of the worst industrial deathtraps I have ever seen .... don't screw that into the wrong block.
yay cool foxy likes the prototyping boards also the plastic boxes fit nice in those drawers will have to look out for an A4 filing cabinet or similar unit or make my own !
will do when I find them did find a couple of filing cabinets in a charity shop once but had bigger drawers probably for suspension files so I left them
just found one of those style cabinets just around the corner from me on eBay mine have slightly deeper drawers so I am going to use those for my tools etc and I can always pack out a couple of the drawers to fit those little component boxes ! just have a search on eBay for a Bisley shallow drawer A4 filing cabinet !
Plugs can be both, as can sockets. What differs them, however, is where they sit. Plugs terminate the ends of leads, sockets sit mounted in walls or device cases.
Nope, i worked in commercial situations, there were wall mounted plugs and cable mounted sockets Lets take a standard extension lead, there's a plug on one end and a socket on the other. Look at caravans (trailers), in the side there is often a fixed plug where you connect the mains hookup Look up BS4343 for example, (wall mounted industrial plug)
Thanks. I suppose there's really no universal consensus. In other fields, such as pro audio, it tends to be as I described. At least one distributor seems to agree: www.hificollective.co.uk/xlr_connectors/switchcraft-xlr-plugs-sockets.html - Others are a bit fuzzier, such as www.conec.com/en/sensor-aktor-line-rundsteckverbinder/ - then again this could be due to translation as this company looks like to be of German origin.
IME, plugs & sockets are gender neutral. A plug is what goes into a socket. Also, generally speaking, a socket is more static than a plug (think mains, USB and audio connections). Furthermore, male connectors have their pins exposed, female connectors don't.
I would argue that modern connector descriptions are wrong, i find that if the housing is male, but the connections are female, they call it a plug, this does not follow convention from the original definition.
+Massimo You are correct, except I think it's spelled 'buss' when it refers to electrical devices, so 'buss bar'. The long strips on prototyping boards can also be referred to as a buss, e.g. if you connect one strip to ground, it becomes a 'ground buss.'
(Snigger!) - if you wire it up wrongly, it's certainly a "Buzz Bar" (Chortle!) Ever seen a spanner, accidentally dropped across a telephone exchange's 48 volt battery's 'bus bar'? Neither have I, after about a second of dropping it!!!
Heh, they were 48 volts, and well capable of at least 1,000 amps. The bus-bars were about an inch tick solid copper. Mate, that'd make the famous 'Blue Smoke Fairy' (who always appears when we muck about with electronics - which is why I always buy two of what I need*) quake with fear! *To get the thing working, it seems I have to sacrifice one device to the Blue Smoke Fairy before I get the bugger working...
Those are the most useful prototyping boards i have seen on ebay probably. But the quality seems quite low. The second type you showed is even missing holes. Maybe i will order a couple regardless.
I wish they made regular breadboards with the two power rails down the middle like that AND with no gaps every 5 holes. There's so little profit in making plastic breadboards that it seems to no Chinese manufacturer is willing to do anything but clone the standard design that's been around for decades.
