*UPDATE:* It has been brought to my attention, that there are more efficient N channel MOSFET you should use. Instead of the one I used in the video, go with the *IRL540N* or *IRLB8743.* They both have a lower Drain-Source resistance and are thus more efficient. Everything else stays the same. If you made the mod with a different MOSFET, please post below to help other users. *EDIT 24.01.2022:* Before buying this product, please be aware that some users experience problems with "sticky buttons" - this can be fixed but you will have to de-solder some caps from the board.
@@cjcj1313 No, the IRF540N is not logic level it only switches fully at 4V and above. Where are you ordering from - I can take a look if they have a matching one...
@@Diown Between which ones? The difference between logic level and not logic level Mosfets is the gate voltage at which drain and source are fully switched (least resistance) - Logic level usually switches fully at 2V and up and the "normal" ones on 4V and up. The difference between the one that I used and the ones recommended in my update post is, that the new recommended ones have a lower resistance when fully switched, thus less energy is "lost" (converted to heat).
Yes. Basically any external module should only be run with this mod. Only the happymodel ELRS module for the T-Lite comes with additional hardware that does not require this mod.
Noob here. I'm not sure how the controller works: Is crossfire always on even if I"m using a non-crossfire drone, or I can turn it off in the menu settings? THanks
I think Jumper might have fixed this. The T-lite I bought in may has thicker more direct routed traces going to and from the external bays power mosfet.
That would be cool - have you tested it? Is there an official statement that addresses ist? AFAIK people hat FETs die on them, so just thicker traces might not be all it takes, so an officialy statement in that regards would really be nice.
@@stylesuxx There were no statements that I know of but, this appears to be the mosfet in it www.vishay.com/docs/68741/si2301cd.pdf and the trace is almost twice as thick. I put some pics here www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3754503-Jumper-T-Lite-another-Lite-radio/page77#post47359867 As far as testing I only have ELRS and I'll be trying 250mw that's not gonna tell you much though since 900mhz and 1w is probably 3x or 4x the amps. and I've seen traces burn that were not visible under the solder mask
@@thirtythreeeyes8624 Hmm, that is very interesting information - thank you for posting. Specs of the mosfet do indeed seem to be promising and I would in fact think that this does solve the issues.
Sadly its not works for me. I do everything as shown, however if i install the module on the back, my microsd fails to read. If i disconnect the module, then its works fine. Also im using elrs, but not crossfire, but i cant see any drawbacks due that.
Good mod but to be honest bad Mosfet choice. The part you recommend has approx 0.4Ohms at 3-3.5V, which will results in up to 0.4W of loss in the Mosfet. Take a look at IRL540N or IRLB8743. Those should up to 10x better.
Hmm, thank you for your feedback - but I am honestly not sure where you get the 0.4Ohms from. RDS(on) is max 0.2Ohm. But yes, you are absolutely right - looking at the datasheet, the ones you recommend would have been the better choice. I updated the description accordingly and pinned a comment. Thanks again.
@@stylesuxx Thanks stylesuxx. The 0.4 Ohms are from the graphs in the datasheet of the RFP12N10L. Take the graph where VDS is plotted against current ID with varying VGS. We have to assume a low voltage of just a bit above 3V. So go a bit above the 3V line and go to VDS=3.2V. You obtain an ID of ~8A on y-axis. This tells us basically the impedance --> 3.2V/8A. Doing the same with the IRB8743 gives us >30A (need to to some interpolation by eye). Thanks again for the nice work.
@@Stefan_73 Ah, damn - you are absolutely right. I was looking at the rDS(ON)/ID graph and did not realize it was at VGS 5V. I really wish, I did not have this MOSFET lying around, I am sure I would have checked the datasheets more carefully. Thanks again for speaking up and pointing this out.
To help out others, take note of the physical location of the FET and the wires. One of my wires was not routed correctly and hit my stick when pushed all the way forward. Some re-routing was required. Thank you very much for this. I used IRLB8743PBF and a 10K pull down. Very helpful.
Well, I am not entirely sure if they see it as an issue that needs fixing, but it should be an easy thing to improve. And if they are at it, they could also swap the 3.3V reg to a step up converter too ;-)
I don’t own this radio but seen the issues everyone was having using full output on crossfire this is a pretty cool video that more needs to see, great video 👍🏾
i have the jumper t lite with the crossfire module, and without all these modification i can choose max power 1w in the setup menu. i don't understand, it's not really working at 1W without modification???
Of course you can chose it, but one component and the traces are not designed for the current that CRSF needs at 1W, so it will burn out eventually. I have heard from some people that the later versions of the T-Lite improved on this issue and have the traces and component sized accordingly. You can try and run it as it is, but be prepared that your external module might stop working at some point.
@@stylesuxx thank you Mr, i'm a beginner, i think i have the last version of the t lite, i buyed only a week ago. For now i don't go far. Without modifications you think i can set at 100, 250, 500mw? I ordered the mosfet and the resistor on the Conrad store but if i don't realy need i prefer don't disassemble the radio.
Does it matters the wattage of the resistor? I'm ordering 10k 1/2 watt just to be safe, also I have few heatsinks for that type of mosfet so Im planning on drilling a hole in the back cover and secure the mosfet to the heatsink and the cover with a bolt that way it will have a good heat dissipation. But if I have enough time I will draw a simple pcb board and glue it to the back cover
No, wattage does not matter for the resistor, we are just pulling the input down to GND. And the MOSFET does not get hot at all, we do not switch fast and we always switch fully.
Can I use a 10k ohm resistor with 3w tolerance? It's a bit larger I think but if I can make it fit I have one handy would save me ordering a 1w and having to wait on shipping :)
Just completed this, but not sure what's going wrong. I have 7.75V to the correct pins, but when actually powering on the module the LED on the back is flashing randomly, while the speaker is making an interference-type noise with the same pulses, clearly some kind of power issue. No data input to the crossfire, the settings .lua just says "waiting for Crossfire". Checked connections, everything is hooked up correctly, I'm using a 100k ohm resistor and an IRL540N mosfet.
@@AceCombatFan0 Which 18650 cell are you using? can you try and measure the voltage while the module is plugged in? Sounds to ma a if the voltage sags...
Thanke a lot, have done the mod. 500mw is running very good, But the Link to the receiver breaks suddenly up at 1w after about 10sec. Whats the Problem there, any idea? and on 1w there appears a solid withe light. and also the luascript disappears sometimes on 1w -> on the screen it means "waiting for tbs". everything just seams to be unstable... i have updated all firmware on all devices!! i build in exactly the same Components in as you, exept the new recommendet mosfet!! If someone could Help??
@@stylesuxx thanke you for ansering!! I use the basen-cell 3100 mah 32a continus amp draw, should be one of the best cells out there… voltage are ok when enable 1w, but the crossfire module make stange things🤷🏻♂️ do you know what the wite light means on te crossfire tx nano v2?
@@stylesuxx i have made a Video so you see what i mean… sorry its a little bit long, the beginning end the end is important👍 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JRVLBRfU4bE.html
Naive question, is this mod effectively adding vbat in parallel with the existing (weak) regulated supply switched via the FET? Thus reducing the load on the existing supply?
No, it is just a work around to power the external module directly from battery instead of the undersized FET, and trace on the board. It is not messing with any of the power supplies on the main PCB itself.
@@stylesuxx Thanks for your patient reply - I’ve now seen the schematic and understand. We are merely sidestepping the main PCB and supplying the step up regulator directly. Thanks again!
Im new to your channel and to the hobby and ordered this tx and planning to get crossfire also. Can i ask what is the difference of dyn on and dyn off? also can I run crossfire at 250mw without doing mod? thank you.
Dynamic will automatically adjust the output power of the module depending on how far away you are. With dyn off, the output power will be fixed at the set value. I would not risk it on 250mW. Jumper recommends to not run the CRSF Nano with more than 25mW - so I would not run it at 250mW without mod.
Thank you for showing up this solution. I used a IFR530 Mosfet. The mod can be done with parts from the tinker box and there is no need to buy an expensive solid state relay.
@@stylesuxx It took some time until I received my TBS Tracer sender. The Tracer sender starts in bootloader mode if I use this power mod. If I change back to the default wiring the sender works normal. I think it happens because of the low side switch and permanent power supply via the positive line. At the moment it works with the original wiring with an output power at 100mW. If I find time and motivation I will think about a solution with high side switch.
What do you mean by old? But yeah, if you can find a way to mount it, I don't see why not. The old modules also have higher output power IIRC, so you might want to bench test that first...
Thank you for the video... gonna mod mine, once it arrives. Btw, once you had everything opened up, why not adding a simple diode as "reverse polarity protection"? I know it's not perfect, but it certainly wouldn't hurt, and we are resoldetring battery contacts anyway. Edit: Maybe adding another mosfet would be much better option... have to think about it :)
Yes, you could do this. Use a Schottky diode though. You want to drop as little voltage as possible. That's also the reason why I did not do it - you will "lose" 0.3 - 0.7V on the way. And since we only have a 3.3V reg and not a DCDC converter, I don't want to drop voltage if it is not necessary.
I hope so. I hope they also address the VReg issue and add a spring as one of the contacts in the battery compartment - then it would be a perfect radio :-)
Look for Logic Level N channel MOSFET - they should all be OK. I would not use the one you mentioned - seems it only fully switches at around 4V. we want to fully switch as low as possible. You can also tell me where you want to order and I look it up for you. I bought mine at Conrad (am from Austria) - I assumed if they have it, anyone will have it :-D
can you make a followup after extensive use...and see how this configuration and modification has held up? and any changes recommendation from the followup?
Not sure how you would define extensive use (at this point the video is 3 months old), it is still working without issues (I fly 2-3 times per week). No recommended changes except for the different MOSFET - see pinned comment and description.
I found two IRF1404Z n-channel mosfets inside a scrap 18V Ryobi battery pack. These have a very low Drain-Source resistance (2.7 milliohms) and 2V Gate-Source threshold voltage. Do you think one of these would be suitable for this mod? www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/196/irf1404zpbf-1732529.pdf
@@stylesuxx Thanks! The Gate Threshold Voltage confuses me. I also have a couple of IRLB3034. These seem to have a threshold between 1V and 2.5V, and their drain-source R is rated at 2 milliohms, so hopefully it's a winner. www.infineon.com/dgdl/irlb3034pbf.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a40153566027b22585
@@stylesuxx I did the mod tonight and it worked like a charm, thank you so much! While I was hacking up the T-Lite, I also installed a lanyard hook under the module bay. I shared my design here : www.thingiverse.com/thing:4788456 I also made a couple of small mods to the backshell of the T-Lite, to allow a 21700 sized battery to fit into the compartment. Now I have a 4200mAh Molicel battery, rated for 45A. Probably overkill, but hey; why not?
No, has to be a Logic level one. The Max Gate Threshold voltage needs to be lower than the lowest possible battery voltage. The IRF540N will only fully switch at 4V or higher. Logic level ones usually switch fully at 2V or more.
@@stylesuxx thankyou for your best answer i needed, yes i understand now. im so stupid with electrical,really. i tried used IRF540N befor asking you, its works! just like a switch to turn on/off external module,i tried use 1w with dynamic power off its dont have any trouble at all, but still i need to be sure, if this have effect on Voltage to module power? or this FET intentionaly to be a just a switch for on/off?
@@farizkruwel7551 it will work to some degree. Once your battery gets more empty, the FET will not fully switch, resistance will get higher, FET will get hot, voltage will get lower. At some point the step up converter will stop working and your module will lose power. Although it might seem to be working, especially with a full battery, I would recommend to use a "correct" FET.
Hmm, I don't know if I want this, to be honest. I mainly use the MPM, and sometimes the CRSF. If you mainly want to use CRSF then I really think you should get the Tango 2 instead.
@@stylesuxx yes, it doesn’t make sense if you are actually using the mpm. I’m not using it at all, but buying the tango won’t help me, cause I’m using tracer and would love to put the tracer internal.
@@derdingel13 Ahh, I see - that makes sense. Would be a bigger "operation" though, but I am sure it's possible. Waiting for the Ghost lite module myself. So once it's available I mit give it a shot.
@@stylesuxx 👍🏾 looking forward to that. Just in general thinking, what kind of electronic ist in in the external adapter? Is it just a stepup? Then it would be enough to make an adaptercable with a stepup, decase the tracer, glue it in the shell and replug it on the existing external port connecter on the mainboard. Am I missing something?
@@derdingel13 No, that would be basically it. The external module bay only has a step up converter - as you say. But - I would be looking at a more elegant version, trying to keep the external module bay working. This would then be on top of this mod and might only consist of adding a second step up converter to power the then, built in tracer module. This would also require changes in OpenTX though. But yeah, a cool idea for sure.
Hello, I would like to do the editing for my T-lite equipped with the Crossfire module. Can you give me links for the components? Thank you in advance.
@@stylesuxx I live in France, and I would like, if possible, to have a link for the resistance and the mosfet on Amazon, Bangood or Aliexpress so as not to make mistakes on the components. ;-)
What is Bulk pin, what is S pin? If it's not shown in the video, you don't need to do it. Also this is only valid for the OG t-Lite, the newer versions already have this issue fixed, so you might not need to do this mod at all...
@@stylesuxx Bulk pin ref to NMOS back metal panel, in text it's name B; S pin ref to NMOS Source pin, the right pin, in text it's name S; I'v mod it using IRL540N, and measured 8.0v between bay pin 2 and pin 3, but after insert tx module, it does not power on, I measured voltage drop to 4.0v between bay pin 2 and pin 3.
Hi, about modding the radio: would there be an easy way to add a battery reverse polarity security? So the radio doesn't stupidly fry? Adding a diode (total noob here)? Thank you.
@@bigatchoum Jup, unfortunately. I was considering it, but as I mentioned before, not worth dropping so much voltage. I think a huge sticker with plus and minus is the better "protection" or adding a spring to the GND plate. At least visually you can then see it more clearly.
@stylesuxx There is a way to do this efficiently with p-channel mosfet. Note: you would probably need a logic level mosfet with max vgs of -2V ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IrB-FPcv1Dc.html
@@SuperNorker Sure, but that makes things just more complex - IMHO it's just not worth the hassle. But thanks for the link, maybe someone needs reverse polarity protection badly and this might be useful. It's really a pity that Jumper did not think about that, even just a spring on one side would have helped to make it more clear.
Ok I turned on captions made it more clear I guess the tbs or controller has a step up and it’s ran by a non-usable circuitry so basically your essentially bypassing it i see and using a switch.😀
@@stylesuxx beautiful makes sense. lol didn’t know location but makes more sense. I have the controller just haven’t turned it on yet. I’ll use dynamic power or 500/1watt can’t wait...
Hello. thanks for your videos. he wants to do something like that too. I have a question: will such parts be good? resistor CR 1 / 4W 5% 100E transistor RFP12N10L. thanks for the help.
Resistor has to be 10k or 100k Ohm. As mentioned in the comments and description, this N Channel Mosfet is not optimal. If you can get a different one, it would be better. But it will work with this one.
Which value did you use for the pull up resistor. It seems some people have issues when using 100k instead of 10k. Also which Mosfet did you use exactly?
@@stylesuxx hi, I used this mofset www.jaycar.com.au/mosfet-sup53p06-20-p-ch-60v-53a/p/ZT2464 and this 100k resistor www.jaycar.com.au/100k-ohm-0-5-watt-metal-film-resistors-pack-of-8/p/RR0620?pos=2&queryId=fdd21e9c17d4e54bcab5667d7f87672d&sort=relevance
H @stylesuxx i, really appreciate the help here. I replaced the resistor with 10k but still getting voltage when turned off. How can I test the mofset?
I measured 7.7V between pins 2 and 3, so I guess I did everything correctly. Nevertheless I have maximum range on 250mW. When I switch to 500mW or 1W then the range deteriorates. Another issue is that after switching the controller off, the module light keeps flashing/blinking. I have to detach the module every time... Any suggestion what I might do wrong? I thought maybe that this is due to mosfet, but I changed to IRLB8743PBF TO220AB IR but this did not solve the problem. Would appreciate any suggestions.
@@stylesuxx I used the later one from your updated list (a full coding is: IRLB8743PBF TO220AB) - can it be somehow not correct? I don't know a meaning of all these letters. I will check wiring then, but if the voltage measures correctly I guess wires should be in order...
@@pawelturon 10k is fine - I've heard issues from people using 100k - that's why I was asking. Measure the voltage on the blue line (or better disconnect it completely) when the radio is off. If the module is blinking when the radio is off, something is interfering with the gate... you double checked that none of your wires has strands that might be shorting out? And just to have all the info, this is a Jumper T-Lite (not pro) and a CRSF slim module - right?
Which mosfet did you use exactly? double check your wiring I am now running mine for over a year and can't see a reason why it would stop working. What behavior are you seeing exactly?
@@stylesuxx the behavior is the same as before, the module does not remain unstable, so I had to fly using an external battery connected to the module's usb as they recommend on the manufacturer's website
@@juliofaria2014 that somehow does not make sense to me at all - the mod bridges the whole weak point. Only thing I can think of is that the step up converter has some issue - not much you can do there I fear. Check the wiring, check the solder connections and measure the output voltage. I assume you are using high quality 18650 cells, right?
I am worried about the data circuit between the module and the processor. When you disconnect the ground, the potential of the signal lines can become higher than it should for a short while before the capacitors discharge, which can lead to damage :( Please rectify me if I'm wrong
I have instructed my friend to use N mosfet in high side switching mode and initially confirm that it is working properly. The circuit consists of a transistor and a resistor just like in yours :)
It seems to me that the capacitance in the converter is enough to saturate the gate at the start. Ultimately, we will use plates with a driver. We ordered a pololu "mosfet slider switch LV", which seems to be a good solution and it is easier to solder aesthetically.
@@michaskalczynski585 Interesting. I am looking forward to your solution. If high side switching is easily possible like this, it for sure is the cleaner way.
@@stylesuxx I think you might be right!! I've actually ordered a new external power bank for external power supply to the nano tx. Hoping this works! If not then I'll be coming back to this video haha
@@stylesuxx for some reason when I use the green wire and resistor the radio will not turn on. If I remove it will work floating gate. I've checked the resistor its fine 9.9k. I think I'm going to just use the resistor on a jumper to battery negative and leave green wire out.
@@richardking3924 I highly recommend you order from a proper electronics component store. Sifting through the amazon listings is a huge pain, sorry. Make sure that it is "logic level" and has a low RDSon resistance
Thanks stylesuxx for detailed video! I can't find 10k or 100k ohm like in your video (blue color), can only found light brown color (100k or 10k) but it says 0.25W, is this ok? i mean does that W matter?
never mind about the wattage question :) i just finished reading all of the comments and found out it doesn't matter :) but what about the resistor with different body color? does that mean something? or has to be the blue one?
@@stylesuxx Thank you! installed the mod and works fine! :) I use 10k 0.25w (brown background), and IRL540N, but the voltage measurement on pin 2 and 3 is between 7.9 to 8.1 not 7.8 as you mentioned, hope thats ok?
@@oceano271 The RSSI Bars should be there by default - as soon as connection to the receiver is established. If not you can scan for Telemetry in the last page of the reciever settings and chose which value you want to use as RSSI. But again - per default it should be exactly like that...
@@stylesuxx ah okay I think its because of xm+ receiver I still have on mine. I haven't installed my crossfire yet but have the same set up you got here. Great vid BTW.
I tried to do this mod, I used IRL540N MOSFET and 10K Resistor. It worked yesterday evening, but when I turned on the radio today, the slot adapter melted. Crossfire probably works because by usb I have communication, the radio also works. I do not know where the problem can be, I connected everything safely and correctly.
When it worked at one point and suddenly stopped working I would assume there was a short at some point. Difficult to say without seeing what you did exactly. I could imagine that you shorted something out on the external port. I would put it back to original state and measure the external port, see if the stepped up voltage is still available there.
Yesterday it worked for an hour for 1W power. The module was hot after this time, but it's probably normal. Later I changed to 25MW Dynamic and today I only used this mode. I have already ordered 2 adapters on Aliexpress, but will come for 3 weeks. Is it possible for this time to power the CrossFire module via USB and connect the remaining cables directly to motherboard, without an adapter?
@@CodySmiley Powering from USB should not be an issue at all, but in this case I would recommend you revert the mod, just in case... Sounds really strange to me, and the first time I hear of an issue like this - am really curious what happened there.
Can you help me please? I ruined the solder pad for the red wire. Can I just jump onto pin 3 with red wire and get the same results or do I have to tie more tracers together?
@@zappy6782 Well, you can use a glass-fiber brush (or something similar) to scratch away the coating and see if you can get enough of the trace so you can solder to. If not you will need to solder yourself to the cap on the other side of the board.
Not sure what you are exactly planning to do - the MT3608 is a DC-DC converter. Are you planing to power the Crossfire module directly from that? If so you will need to unplug it when you don't use it, or add a switch.
@@snakes301271 Not entirely sure how you are planning to wire it - where are you going to power the module from? If you power it from the battery directly, you will need a switch, or some way to enable the module. If you are planning on powering it from the same line, that the "native" DC/DC module on the bay is powered, then you are not solving the issue. It would help if you made a drawing of how you are planning to hook up everything.
@@snakes301271 OK, but then you are still using the weak power path through the board... I am not sure which problem you are trying to solve with that, to be honest.
dangerous mod. switching the GND or 0V of the bay is a stupid idea, because you can fry your hardware with this (currents trough internal diodes of the MCUs from module and radio) so this can destroy both, the radio and the module.
