Thank you for watching. Let's be honest - a lot of this channel is just an excuse for me to tell bad jokes - the worse they are, the batter they are in my opinion. Cheers, Paul
Thanks for the comment. I basically just tried to follow the instructions as I understood them. I do have some more fiberglass and epoxy work to do when I replace the portlights in the Spring. - Not so critical from a 'get it wrong and the boat sinks' point of view. But it needs to be neat and tidy - we shall see. Cheers.
Thanks. I was just trying to follow the West System guide as closely as possible. I'm still not sure why I needed to put an epoxy 'puck' in the middle. I've done a few more since these two - it definitely gets easer. Cheers, Paul
Excellent. I basically followed the West System 'manual' as closely as I could. It was a scary prospect, but I feel much more comfortable working with holes in my boat now. Let me know how it goes. Cheers, Paul
Thanks I found it a bit nerve wracking when I first 'fixed' a hole under the waterline. However, this epoxy resin stuff is so strong and easy to work with. I've had a lot more practice since this video and am getting more confident each time. If only wood work was as easy - not my strong point. Cheers Paul
@@verynearlyaboutsailing8114 now that you've done it you got new found knowledge don't be afraid to grab knowledge when I first started learning how to weld, I would take test flight after test plate until I got it right if you're not sure about what you're doing set up a test board, hone your skills are on a test before you get to your goal, as I learned how to paint cars I would take a piece of sheet metal, I would paint peace after peace until I got it right, and then I would paint my car, by the time I got to the car cuz of all those pieces of sheet metal have no longer nervous, I'm never hesitated to try and learn we learn from our mistakes, but who am I saying that to you I figure you're probably pretty close to a perfectionist and what I seen you what you done to your vessel, I'm sure you boned up one way or another before you got there, knowledge is power. PS the only thing that's ever eluded me in life is how to make money and become wealthy.
@@verynearlyaboutsailing8114 and now I'm going after one more thing, I'm going to find my boat, make it right, and sail around the globe, there's only one thing I need to learn though, is how to sale, but I learned how to do that by the time I get to the water, cuz I'll have a smart man like you show me how.
Well done Paul, looking good. We could do with moving a through hull this winter so its good to see how some one else has done it first. Sorry we cant offer any advice on what you have done i'm afraid but it certainly looks like you did the right thing. Have fun
To be honest this was a job I have been putting of and should have done it over two years ago when I first bought Serenity and she was on the hard. I then had another chance when the engine was changed and she was out of the water for 6 weeks. I decided I needed to finally bite the bullet and actually do it.
Hi, looks like a good sound job there, I did a repair where a wing engine stern tube went through my hull which is around a inch thick I used the bigger patch first idea and taped a sheet of Mylar over the inside of the hole laminated up the outside and removed the Mylar then laminated the inside before it had cured fully to try and achieve a chemical bond between the inside and outside repair, this seemed to work well for me hope this is use full.
Thanks. That makes total sense to me. I did wonder about doing something along these lines. As you say, you then get a chemical bond on both the inner and outer set of laminations - effectively making it near impossible for the fixed area to move or break apart. I was a bit worried about having too much exothermic heat with such a thick layup. But, to be quite honest I think that with modern epoxy most methods will provide a good strong patch. Cheers.
Yes it certainly got quite hot as it went off it is amazingly robust stuff, a lot of people only repair from one side too so a double side repair has to be stronger
Thanks for the comment. One of the problems with this type of job is that it is the first and possibly the only time I will need to do it. There is no chance to build up skills and experience through doing it multiple times. Even though I know it is a very strong repair, I will still be a bit nervous when it gets tested out in the first rough sea.
Nice work Paul, I have often wondered why there are so many thru-hulls on boats and why nobody has invented a way of doing at least some of them a different way so as not to have so many holes in the boat? Anyway I just spent a week down west and popped in on the often mispronounced Mousehole briefly, then checked out Fowey at the Regtta, unfortunatley I had an angina attack on the beach so it's back to the Doc's and hoping my plans are not in jeopordy now as I thought I had that under control. At least I enjoyed the 73,978 Pasty shops while I was dwn there....shame I can't eat too many of them 😆
In my case people had made changes over the years and just left the old thru-hulls in place when they weren't needed. One or two people have a policy of no thru-hulls at all (very difficult for engine cooler, cockpit drains, heads etc). You've probably seen my (April 6 Journey pt 6) video where I berthed up at Newlyn and walked to Mousehole - which I did pronounce correctly. The whole of Mounts Bay is lovely for sailing with plenty of anchorages - You could spend a couple of months there. Health is the top of the priority list for anything. Hope it goes well and you can get your plans back on track.
The Reeves commercial was awesome. lolz I would have thought that the "plug" would have been laid in wet, to cure solidly to the hull...... but I have no clue how to do any of it. Interesting diagram on the two layering methods also - I wonder if a combo of the two would be even better - large rounds at the hull for the bond, then go to small rounds that increase in diameter for the outer "chemical" bonds. Cheers.
I like the idea of the large patch followed by smaller ones increasing. Or maybe just alternate - staring with the large one. There is obviously a lot of science behind all of this - that I don't understand. Interestingly, there s a re-run of the 1968 round the world race where competitors are only allowed to use technology that was available at the time (apart from some safety stuff). So if the competitors want to film their voyage they will need to use cameras like the one in the advert - non of this MP4 HD stuff.
Serenity is a mere 40 year old youngster - no age at all. I wonder if Kevlar mesh and epoxy would give a strong fix for something like a broken mast or boom? I'm sure I've seen some plastic fixes somewhere with a stainless steel mesh melted in.
I see you had two by two, hands of blue helping you out with that epoxy!! Seriously though love your videos, always great viewing. (Catching up slowly).
I'm sure my local hardware shop is wondering what I'm up to - I must get through a box of blue gloves every fortnight. You are going to see a lot more epoxy as you work your way to the current videos - and more to come after that. Cheers.
It's very late but you're right, it was too big. Even though the hull is 1 inch thickness, you chamfer from both sides. So each chamfer is half an inch, therfore 6 inch diameter... Great videos though! Loved the trip around Land's End. I'm berthed in Falmouth and live aboard
Thanks for watching and commenting. Falmouth must be a great base. I really enjoyed my short stay there. I don't think I have ever seen so many eating places in such a small area. And great sailing, so many lovely places in all directions. I seriously want to sail back to the West and explore a bit more before I set off on my longer voyage. Yes, often if it looks wrong, it is wrong. But the penny did drop that it was a chamfer from both sides not the total thickness. I did chamfer the inside but didn't video as the light wasn't good. In fact my hull is about 10cm. The plug in the middle was three mm - so it left two lots of 3.5 mm to chamfer. Most people don't seem to put in a plug at all - and I am still not really sure what it is for, I just followed the epoxyworks (epoxycraft?) instructions as closely as I could. I need to do one more once the weather gets warm again. Maybe I won't bother with the plugs this time. Cheers.
she has a good thick lay up on the hull. I was surprised when I removed the log on my boat and found it to be seven eighths thick. they built heavy boats in the 70s.
I guess they still didn't know quite how strong fibreglass was back then. I think 70's boats are great. I think that going for a 35-40 year old boat has got to be one of the most cost effective ways of gong sailing. - Of course, you'll probably need a new engine, new rigging, new deckware, new electrics, new...
yes I feel very safe in the old tub. I have spent more on it than the initial cost but If you enjoy the challenge the work can be fun. when you put her back in I think you would enjoy exploring the east coast rivers. The ore is one of my favourites it can have a very exciting entrance.
I am very, very tempted to turn left from the Thames Estuary when I get back into the water and complete a lap of the British Isles. So, watch this space - Although it could be a while. Cheers.
I just have the one sailboat. It is a Mirage 28 built about 1976 by Thames Marine in Essex, England. A lot of them were based in the Mediterranean when they were first made for charter hire. I'm not sure how many were made in total, but they were quite popular for a while and known for being solid and forgiving. Cheers.
Okay so in aviation composite repair we don't taper we sand out to each layer of original glass so you end up with a step out and we then step out from smaller to larger but each has a good size contact area for bonding. With the taper idea I would do it as you did (maximum contact bonding) largest to smallest. As to the plug just grind your double taper first, then block off hole with peel ply, small circle of card board or wood and tape on outside, and lay up a glass reinforced plug and then the outer layers on inside all at once. Once that's sets up touch up sanding on outside of hull and lay up outside glass. Hope that made sense.
Thanks, this is exactly the sort of comment I was hoping for. Wow, I definitely do not have the skills to sand to each layer. - I'm not even sure I could identify each layer. I have seen videos showing the other methods you suggest. It would be interesting for someone to set up an experiment doing it each way and then testing the strength of each one. I guess that they would all be pretty strong. Cheers.
Usually, in aviation, each layer is laid in different direction so it's a little easier to see the transition between layers, and the repair layer is laid up to match each layer.
Serenity is 3.5 tons. Probably the exact opposite of the formula (which was about 2 tons?). Kevlar would certainly make for a light and strong boat. Too scary for me.
great designer stephen jones, looking under the stanchion fittings is where stress cracks appear , im going for aswede with an encapsulated hull albin vega is the standard stroll about yacht, layers of kevlar might help when you refit the keel bolts , hope you can free them up without pulling a muscle
Well I like your video and I'll make sure I watch the rest I've already done subscribed maybe I'll catch you out on the high seas one of these times I'm looking to buy a sailboat but with my budget it's got to be a fixer upper we on RU-vid has been very useful in figuring things out but before I commit I will have a survey done
Very sensible. I did have a survey done. Serenity was not too expensive (About £8K) but then I had a lot of problems with the engine - which I replaced (expensive). I am guessing that you follow Mads on Sail Life. He has a wealth of DIY experience on both his previous boat and his new one. Good luck with it - let me know what you buy. Paul
I saw this a while ago and thought “I’ll never have to do this” how wrong was I? I have a couple to do on our little project yacht. Well done by the way.
Chris, welcome to the world of sailing - you will have plenty of opportunity to do loads of those, "I never thought I would have to do this" type of jobs ;) It's not as bad as it looks. I can make even the simplest of tasks look difficult. Also, have a peek at the November 2018 video (about 2/3 of the way in). I have done two more holes and give a quick update. My best tip is to use one of those flapwheel things on the angle grinder (I show one on the video) - it makes it really easy to do the taper. - I just used a basic ange grinder the first time, which works but is a bit violent. Good luck, Paul
Just about sailing Thanks for the tip and if I can do nearly as good a job as you did, I’ll be very happy. Hell, if I stay afloat I’ll be happy 😂. We’ll be taking her around Swansea to dry out on some of those lovely beaches so may have to call into Watchet for a cider or 10.
One place I would have loved to take Serenity was Watermouth Bay (just East of Ilfracombe). Probably one of the nicest drying out anchorages in the Bristol Channel.
My pleasure. I enjoy your laid back style. Anyone who has a water fight with their children with a power jet washer instead of cleaning the boat is alright in my books.
I'm sure that doing what you suggest would be plenty strong enough. I was trying to follow the method in the West System guide for a 'below the water line' hole as closely as I could. And I still have no idea why they suggest making an epoxy puck to go in the middle of the repair - makes no sense to me, but that's what they recommend. I have filled in four thru-hulls like this in total. But more recently I cut out a crack/split above the water line and did it more like how you suggest. Although I made the backing plate out of two layers of fiberglass and then did all the rest of the glassing from the outside. Cheers, Paul
I'm sure the spacer enables you to build the fibreglass patch onto a base, without it would be difficult to bridge the gap..... Btw... I enjoyed the advert for the Bolex 16mm camera.... Nice choice, and should be a vast improvement over the Gopros.... 0_o Just need the bikini clad girls now !!
I'm having a bit of trouble getting 16mm converted to MP4 using my editing software. - I seriously lusted after one of those cameras as a young child. You could well be right about the spacer. I was also wondering if it was to stop there being too much volume of epoxy which would cause a lot of heat.
I'd imagine that having the plug in there also gives a nice reference point for when grinding the bevel around the hole too. "I've ground enough to reach the plug. I can stop now" versus "How thick is the remaining edge of the hole? Let me go get my measuring stick..." And there's also now several mm of expensive resin filling space in the hole that doesn't need filling with even MORE expensive (and labour-intensive) glass matting.
Whatever happened to the term 'skin fitting' used on this side of the Atlantic? I use chopped strand mat glassfibre (add woven layers if the hull was built with that), do most of the taper inside, use polyester resin for the repair, grind/sand it down on the outside then an epoxy coating to seal.
Yes, I get the point about skin fitting vs thru-hull. I'll try and do better. I have a few other dents and dings and intend to use a mix of chopped strand and some 406 for those. I know a lot of people prefer polyester resin and swear by it - I guess it would make it a lot easier to do a final gelcoat. To be honest, all of this stuff is so ridiculously strong compared with the adhesives I grew up with that most approaches would give a solid repair. Cheers.
I suppose terminology depends on your audience. If my North American audience ever went above 50% perhaps I'd do the same but at present, 6%, I'm sure they would understand. Regarding small holes like these, I think fairing only would suffice outside and all the glassing inside
mjcooke2 I assume skin fittings are through hulls in British english? As to making most of the taper on the inside, that's completely backwards. The pressure is inward, and you need to grind on the outside anyway to not end up with a bulge. Tapering the outside forms a plug that is held in place by the water pressure. On the inside the pressure is trying to tear the bonding joint. Not that I think it could fail if done correctly, but why reduce strength? On the inside you could get away with only grinding enough to get to a smooth solid fiberglass surface and why bother fairing it anymore than is necessary to eliminate splinter hazards.
Good to have different ideas on the subject. I'd say pressure differences negligible at those depths and large repairs are carried out by making a mould on the outside of a damaged hull then gelling the mould from the inside and building up the glass from inside.
You could try doing a video in Welsh and see what sort of geographical mix you get. Actually, there is a really nice Welsh language sailing programme (Codi Hywl) that I watch on BBC's iPlayer. I very nearly bought the Halcyon 27 (Mistress Wilful) featured in the first series - very nice boat.
First darn good video. Ok that is the biggest thing. This is not criticism your patch is great, it will be there when the boat rots away. I worked with real boat repair people that do this for a living. All us FG DIY are so fastidious and neat and slow. The repair guys would have ground the hole out from the outside because it was convenient and slapped FG mat and whatever was around in the hole. Put a lamp on it. Then carved the extra FG off with a knife, ground the glass smooth and then the filler. Then hit with paint. The complete repair would be done in 2 hrs. It's funny. I am just so careful just like you. But people that do it for a living zip Through it.
Trouble I have with these type of jobs is that experience is everything - and I don't have much experience. I think you and Don should do a fiberglass special - that would be well worth a watch.
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback. I have seen a lot of people do it the 'other way round'. However, everything I have read from official (ie manufaturer) sources tell me to do it the way I did - so I just followed them. I did another couple of holes more recently. It was a lot easier and quicker - and I made the pucks the right size. Cheers.
