Very cool car. Have a few questions about the setup to make sense of it's performance in my head. -Which Miata gearbox? -Which final drive? -Which LSD? -What wheel width on the Kosei K1s? -Which 205 200TW tire model? -How old/healthy are the rear tires?
Matt’s car is a 5 speed, 4.3 Torsen (we’re almost positive on this but haven’t counted teeth, it’s certainly not a 3.9 or longer) 205 RE71R, about a year old with very good tread life left
Love it. Still my dream Miata to build a 230ish hp k24. The car looked so happy revving out. Yeah once the owner gets used to driving his “baby” some of that mechanical sympathy will go away and times will improve haha. It’s always nerve wrecking beating on something you just spent so much money and time on. Keep up the great content Cash
Garbage shifting and not very good launches. I’m sure a half decent driver could get it in the 5’s. I’m more surprised by only getting 201 wheel out of the k24 swap.
The K24Z is a great K swap engine if you plan to do boost (because of the built in header). It isn’t a great NA car due to bad air flow (because of the built in header). K24A motors can be built up to 280-300 whp on an NA build. K24Z can go much past 220 NA (you can go over 400 with boost)
Does it not like to shift to 2nd? Seems like you're leaving a good half second on the table with the shift, and possibly not revving all the way out in 1st?
It doesn’t love the quick 1-2 shift, with the swap it got a bit harder and we’re still sorting that out. Listen to the last few runs, he’s hitting limiter in 1st!
K-Swap Part List: bit.ly/KSwapSpreadsheet K-Swap Cost Video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Br-_1oxuGSY.html Notes: This video was not performed on a prepped surface, it was actually quite dusty. Also, the dragy times are only accurate up to 60 MPH, after that we let off. This was the first real shakedown of this car, so improvements can be made for the future!
Love this particular car. Most of the K swap videos focus on race cars or are rattle traps. This car is so well sorted out it looks and sounds like a stock car with an aftermarket exhaust.
Did it eliminate all of the weird vibrations that every K24 swapped miata seems to struggle with? This is my biggest concern doing this swap and I've wondered if everyone is running the poly mounts instead of the rubber mounts.
@@collinrobinson3085 The mounts used in the kit are just SBC mounts from almost every car in the 60-80s. I got some cheap rubber mounts for an 80's Chevy and the car is so much better. The vibrations are very tolerable. Huge improvement over poly.
Hey guys, great video series, it helped me through my swap. I just finished putting a K24a into my 90 Miata. The only problem I have had is the throttle will sometimes stick, but only when it's running. KPower replaced the TB, but the replacement does the same thing. Have you guys experienced any throttle sticking issues?
Ive had this happen with with similar throttlebodys. First make sure your cable isnt kinked. Then make sure your throttle plate on tb is center by loosening screws and turning tb open and close while you feel for center before tightening screws. Also you can usually tighten the throttle spring 1 or 2 holes and this i usually what ends of fixing them if they are real bad.
@@Ginsengx Thanks for the response. Yes, I wound up adjusting the spring to put more preload in it. The throttle body I have does not clock in the body of the housing (drilling new holes) as you and others have described, but I was able to move it on the body and accomplish the same thing.
Your run probably wasn’t valid, it tells you if it is or isn’t based on how many satellites connect and the slope of the road. This software is proven to be very accurate in conditions like these!
I had a 96 Miata, for 16 years....was the very best/most fun I've ever owned! Did you guys change out the steering wheel??? I only wish mine had that much power! 😉😉😉
My stock ND2 with LSD chirps the tyres on the 1 to 2 shift. That car should do it easily. Is your clutch worn out maybe? With 200 whp it should also be a lot quicker than 6.7 to 60.
jeesus bro how much time are you taking to shift? xD you could shift the car in a third of the time youre doing.. on stock trans and h shifter.. xD i like the vids tho.. .just had to get this off my mind :D
Times seem slow. I don't have a draggy sadly, but I have used a slowmo video and counted the frames and came to 5.5 seconds on my 99 10AE with a turbo at ~6 PSI (video on my channel). May pick up a draggy for more accuracy but I would expect it to be under 6 seconds for sure. Mine dynoed at 160 whp. Nice video nonetheless though!
You almost had me? You never had me! You never had your car! Granny shiftin', not double clutchin' like you should. You're lucky that hundred shot of NOS didnt blow the welds on the intake. In all seriousness, he's still getting used to the car and the 1-2 shift is a bit harder than it was on the stock car. We're still trying to figure that out
I’m not that great at driving manual and no offense but damn these are some of the slowest shifts I think I’ve ever seen is there something wrong with tranny that I’m missing?
@@brycef7130 he said that the 1-2 was hard to get into gear. I noticed too. But obviously something was wrong. I’m sure he could shift way faster than that.
these K24 swaps seem cool however a stock ep3 and even fn2 197hp civic type R does low to mid 6 seconds 0-60 and thats a 2ltr version and not 197hp at the wheels either. i dont know what the weight difference is between the k20 & k24, but the mx5 is lighter than the civic and rwd, so in theory it should be quicker?
Great video! I currently have my 1.8 BP boosted making 230whp, and its a blast. I'm looking for 300whp now though, and I'm torn on whether to swap in a K24 and boost it, or get my 1.8 built and up the boost. Which direction would you go if you were in this situation? I'm having quite a hard time deciding which direction to go, lol.
That depends on if you want to build an engine or not! You will certainly have to with the BP, and you shouldn't have to with the K. That said, the K will cost a lot more to swap in and then boost than the BP, but will also be easier to swap engines again if things go south since you won't have to do built internals. If money were no factor, I'd do the K. If it is, it makes it a tough choice
@@CashedOutCars Yep you're right in that if the engine blows, the good thing with the K is I can just swap another engine in and not worry about having to get it built all over again. That is a big factor to think about too. Cost is a little bit of a factor, since I don't have too much money to really spend on it, however I don't mind saving and spending little by little! I plan on hopefully keeping my Miata(s) forever, so I'm definitely in no rush. Piecing things together over time is totally fine with me.
The K will also be more unique and should have more torque down low, enjoy your Miatas! I plan on keeping my red NA that I bought when I was 17 forever too
So the onboard system says the car was on pace to run the 1/4 in 17.5 seconds....but if you plug in 2600 lbs and 201 WHP, it calcs to a 13.6 1/4. Nothing against the driver, you drive it the same way I would drive my car, but if you're trying to get accurate performance times, this won't do it.
Don't look at the 1/4, we let off right after we hit 60, so that info is irrelevant. This gives a great indicator of real world performance for 0-60, as most people aren't pro drivers driving on prepped surfaces with slicks
Is this still rear wheel drive???? I want to do this for a drift car so do I have to get a new transmission? Or does that trans go to rear wheel can I even do this and have a rear wheel drive
semi slicks or grip road tires would make it a lot faster, my miata has a supercharger with aftermarket ecu tuned at 250 whp but on the stock tires it would not run faster than 7 sec 0-60. Now i have 245 semi slicks with wider wheels and it does 0-60 in the low 5 sec. what is the rev limit on that k series btw? love your content keep up the good work
Extremely dissapointed. The stock RSX Type-S does 0 to 60 in 6.1sec. My modded RSX-S with 235whp does 0 to 60 in 5.5sec. I was expecting this car to do 0 to 60 in 4.9sec. To be slower than a stock RSX Type-S is an embarrassment. It's just a K20 in the RSX [not a K24] and 700lbs more. Next time, get a the good K24, the K24a2 out of a 06-08 TSX. Those motors can do 250whp [on a dynojet], not just 201, not just 235. I have a spare one if you need one. The exhaust manifold is not part of the head, is the major difference over the K24Z3. Good luck next time. Thank you, come again.
There’s a number of reasons this was “slower” than it should have been. 1) this is a completely unprepped, uncleaned Surface 2) the launches were not great 3) the 1-2 shifts were not great 4) it was not very warm out so the tires weren’t in ideal condition 5) dragy does not account for 1ft rollout for 0-60 times, making it “slower” than magazine test times and drag strip times. We will certainly test this car again under better circumstances, because it’s WAY quicker than it was stock. We didn’t do the A2 swap because it becomes a good bit more complex and expensive on these Miatas and Matt’s goal was a reliable 200whp, which this achieved. Thanks for stopping by!
@@CashedOutCars Here's what I believe and don't believe. 1) Yeah, the surface matters for the launch, and car & drivers test that got 6.1sec would have made a difference. 2)Same as (1), launch issues; 3)The shifter in the RSX is buttery smooth, so that's true also; 4) The colder it is, the more hp it makes, but you can't launch it with the wrong rubber for the climate, so same as (1), launch issues; 5) Sorry, in 2001 they didn't use 1ft of rollout discounting it .3sec, the time was with rollout to get the 6.1sec 0 to 60... Lastly, the time I have for my RSX Type-S at 5.5sec 0 to 60 is without taking out .3sec of rollout, without a special driver or special track preparations, so there goes that. I am near sea level and temps are good here, so I do have that. If I had the special track prep and driver, I may get it down to 5.1sec 0 to 60, since after all I have 70whp (40%) more than stock (165whp stock, 200hp rated, 235whp currently). With 200whp on a 2100lb miata, thats a much better power to weight ratio, than my 2766lb RSX Type-S. It's like have 260whp on my RSX, which I clearly don't have. So, a better 0 to 60 time in a RWD car with more power to weight ratio than a 5.5sec FWD car with less power to weight ratio, is definitely doable. After all these problems are corrected, you have about 1.8secs to improve on the 0 to 60time... so the results come out to be expected at 4.9sec 0 to 60. Again, even with just 200whp, you should get 4.9sec 0 to 60. That's quite a bit to go. Let me know if there is anything you need help with, as I'm quite the expert on K-Series (been tuning them for twenty years)
@@CashedOutCars Forget trying to get the best time. I'm thinking... just do a side by side with a factory stock miata that did 0 to 60 in 8.0sec. Do a roll race to start off, then a 1/4mile race, then a braking test for the fun of it. That will really show the difference.
the amount of trust between you two amazes me, if i built a k24 miata, or just my stock miata in general, i don’t want anybody driving my car, i like to shift without clutch so i seriously preserve it, i don’t like sharing bc my stuff usually breaks 😂
Hahah we used to drive together on a Formula SAE team, we built a lot of trust (and our friendship) there. He's one of a very small group of people that I'd let drive my car hard, and I'm sure he feels the same!
My heart goes out to your poor synchros, a clutch is designed to be serviced, it’s a wear part just like your brakepads. However, the internals of your transmission are not so serviceable. If you rev match perfectly, using your clutch pedal “theoretically” won’t wear your clutch at all, the same way you can get away with murder by rev matching when your clutch slave goes out. Does it work? Sorta. Is it a good party trick? Once in a while. Should you do that on the daily instead of using your clutch? Let’s just say now I know why your stuff usually breaks. Humans can’t rev match consistently or accurately, and that 50-100rpm inaccuracy is being taken out on your synchros instead of your clutch like it’s designed. Learn how to replace a clutch and know what it costs, maybe you’ll drive differently after that. They’re not made of glass and they cost a hell of a lot less than your transmission. Drive your car hard, in the way it was meant to be driven, and stupid bullshit won’t fail you. That said would recommend a clutch interlock delete if you have a Miata because the thrust bearing on the crank has like no oil until you start the engine soooo pro tip that actually saves car parts. Just don’t start in gear lol.
@@elementaljosh perhaps i should have explained myself with more detail, i didn’t state that my shit breaks because of me, what i ment to say is that my shit usually breaks after i lend things out to my friends, because not everybody is as self aware and open minded to think ahead of consequences, i admit i’m not as mechanically smart as i’d like to be, i didn’t grow up in the environment my father and my grandfather did, but man i love cars. My dad taught me how to shift without clutch without any grinding whatsoever, that “party trick” you’re talking about is actually my daily way of driving, i seriously take care of my Na, trust me i’m not your average idiot. I’m currently a uti student and i haven’t taken the transmission class yet, but i’m excited for when it comes. Ive had my Na a little over 2 years now, and i always drive without clutch, ofcourse unless i’m taking off, or ripping the little thing lol. And i have yet to have any clutch problems, because i’ve gotten so damn good at it, i still amaze my peers that i can drive it without grinding any gears, maybe it is a party trick after all, but the joke is on anybody who hates me for it, because in reality i’m saving money by not using my clutch as much, nor even wearing it. I can even rev match without it too.
@@TheEddieguerrero06 take out the trans drain plug and look to see what the magnet has collected. No matter how good you think you are at shifting you are wearing your gears teeth out driving like that all the time.
