hey im looking to build a eg hatch with a k24. But was wondering that k24 to use. I know there are different ones like the k24a2, k24z7 and the list goes on. What is the best to go with for most amount of hp you can get out of it, and also the price. Im just looking to build 500 hp reliable
A tip I learned from Jafromobile about cleaning parts, is to use coffee filters. They're white, leave no lint, and are super cheap. It's really easy to see if the part is as clean as you'd like with them.
@@Alex43237373 you are correct. I realized that after submitting it. It definitely leaves less lint than blue towels though, but you should always use air after wiping down things.
One thing I love about engine builds, even with a background in building old pushrod V-8s I can fairly easily understand and appreciate the design elements in modern engines. They still work fundamentally the same way especially when it comes to modifying to make big power, they just go about it in a different manner. Even though muscle cars are more my "thing" I do really want to build a legit badass import, there's just so much technology to take advantage of and it's cheap because it's still OEM technology.
@@andrewwenner2781 there is at least as much stuff for domestic makes, trust me. There's an entire company dedicated to only making and selling parts for big block Chrysler V8s, just named 440Source lol. You can build an entire 1st-gen Chevy Camaro from aftermarket parts it's actually been done before in magazines and such
im with you on that . my old monte had a mild 383 was a lot of fun . looking forward to building up a friends honda maybe ill try it on my g37 . love forged internal na tune
@@andrewwenner2781 they need billet engines, which is not made by japaneese people, which every single fast k serie is not even japaneese or honda, its american engines built entirely in usa, the vw ea888 and the gm ecotec are much cheaper and better options
This video is helpful and so well produced. This type of content is what the RU-vid car community thrives on. I can't wait to see your next DIY video on HOW TO PORT YOUR OIL PUMP!!!!
This is the reason why I didn't think twice hitting the subscribe button. Clear voice, crystal clear. Also the assembly phase. Please keep editing like this and improve if there's anything you think you miss. God speed
Nice work! Finally an extreme high Horsepower Honda. I enjoy the detailed explanations on assembly. Please keep it up and thoroughly explain the tuning process if you can. Thanks !
At my current skill level, I couldn't build an engine if my life depended on it. That's why I LOVE watching skilled builders do their thing. Thanks for sharing!
Enjoyed this one. I think it'll be cool to see the contrast between a "China" build and one with lots of "insurance" built into it. I subbed at your first pink widow video and have been hooked ever since. Would enjoy watching a series of one of you learning lap racing!
Dude you let me go back to old days when I used to do this just a lil bigger and that intake scared me a lil bit sucking all the air we can breath for a month,good job bruh 😀
Even as a mostly chevy guy. This blows my mind the high power k series motor are nuts anything 800+ bhp is nuts in the light weight chassis. Very meticulous work mike killer video my man very detailed..
Great job Buddy. I got a 2005 civic, blew the B17a engine, wanna get a K 24 with a 5 speed transmission swap. I plan on rebuilding the B17a engine. Thanks for the information and keep up the great work!
The k20 series is such an interesting design block and rotating assembly wise, fully counter weighted crank, girdle 5 bolt mains. Yet the block is open deck and all aluminum. Good engine weird design thats all, but they make a 1000hp easy so praise somebody
Hank Hill Bro I have an element too and I want to upgrade it but I’m scared 😱 that the labor will be done poorly I would want this guy or someone similar to install all the expensive goods
Despite the fact that this engine is tough and long-lasting, it is not without problems. One main component on the engine that can fail is the timing chain sensor. The problem started to develop when the company switched timing belts to connect the crankshafts with the camshafts. Closing the gap of the piston by bringing it closer to the chain by a single tooth is the easiest solution to the problem, but it might not be a permanent solution. Other issues with this engine include that the camshaft can wear out easily and the idle is sometimes rough. Leaking engine oil has also been reported, which makes keeping up with regular oil changes essential to maintaining proper health of the Honda K24. Some owners have also noted hearing engine noise upon starting the car, which can signal a deterioration (and necessitate replacement) for the engine’s VTC gear.
You are absolutely correct. The VTEC solenoid gasket often leaks, the VTC actuators go bad and cause a grinding noise on a cold startup, the valves often need adjusting frequently to keep them quiet, and the engine HATES, HATES, HATES aftermarket starters and will often be a source of long cranks.
i want to get back to engine building and finish my honda after this deployment. just don't like doing it by myself as i only have youtube and books. just need that one dude who has knowledge
Mike,hi I'm ben grrrrreat vid I like how you explained the install processes, stressed measuring, and living. The music in the background is very relaxing and a quality nice choice. I've subscribed to follow this build and placement process. Thank you again Mike
I’m surprised with such a high-horsepower specific output build you didn’t get the block gasket-ring machined. That little copper ring really helps when you’re running super-high cylinder pressures.
meanwhile I'm stuck rebuilding a complete engine on the ground, rain, dust, and cats pissing on the covered motor. pita cleaning every time I look at it.
Use the top of your piston to push the rings down the bore to check ring gaps, push down about 25mm and the same for each ring. Balance the assembly, pistons, rods, crank and fly wheel and one pin in the fly wheel, so it will only fit one way, this makes a massive difference and will help it last longer. We pack a new pump with a lite grease to get pressure up or prime the pump via the oil pressure switch hole in needed as it fills side mounted filters and the pump.
I don't think a lot of the USDM fans know what "rice" means. They'll usually call any Japanese import a "ricer." I've seen more Chevy Cavaliers and Mustangs riced out than any other vehicle ever. Especially the Cavaliers. I keep my vehicle bodies stock or worse... I let them decay so it looks like piece of garbage. You'd never see it coming.
Very Nice. if you press the bearings in like that. You risk slight damage to the back of the bearing. You could put the small nose in to the cap en press feed the bearing into its place. Just a observation. Greets
Just a guy proving you can DIY... if you pay attention to the details. Love the narration and showing what you're doing. Did you use anything on the arp head studs, loctite?
Very well done video. You make it look easy. And that’s what a good video should do. I would sure like to see a cost breakdown. Machine shop, and itemized parts list. That would’ve made the video even better. But appreciate you posting the cost. Blessings
This video showed up in my recommendations and I'm 💯% glad it did. Awesome video, great explanation of the steps taken. I just smashed that subscribe button✌
Yoooo I'm so late but doing this now.. k24a2/k20z3 head. Manley h beam rods, (haven't got the pistons yet) king bearings , 4 pistons oil pump.. definitely got a fan outa me
Very cool, I'd love a more in depth narration to everything you're doing (particularly the measuring). If you've already done something like that please link me to the video
Oil pump failures due to internal parts breakage has destroyed a LOT of high rpm K series engines - I am more than a little surprised you didn't seem to do any preventative work there - like installing steel gears? Especially as you have spent a LOT of money on parts that would be likely to be destroyed if that small saving doesn't work out and you throw a rod.
