In this video we'll show you all the steps needed to prep your K24A2 to be installed in your Miata with the KMiata conversion kit. If you have questions, email us at sales@kmiata.com or comment below.
thank you, more videos will come eventually. This is the most technical part of the swap, and the most unfamiliar to Miata enthusiasts, so we did it first.
Love awesome vid to watch while I wait for the k-miata kit to arrive must admit I watched this a few times 😂 Lead me to porting the rwd intake manifold
Awesome video! Very helpful. Make the k20 a2 oil pump swap seem pretty straight forward. The only thing I would add is definitely try to hand thread any bolts before using the drill to reduce chances of bolts being crossed threaded. But thanks for the video!
good informative video thanks. Quick Q. does the VTC camgear need to be unlocked with compressed air? as far as i'm aware, the VTC should be removed OR installed in the unlocked position by blowing compressed air into the channels.
Andrew Pike Just keep watching and doing research until it starts to make sense. Its probably the easiest swap considering the kit had everything you need, and there a whole community to help
I have the VTC gear advanced to 45 degrees. Im starting to hear a noise when I start the car for the 1st time in the mornings and when I'm stepping on the gas hard specially exiting on a turn, I get a code P0011. Im assuming I'm starving of oil. I own a K24A2 07 TSX. Would upgrading the oil pump to the RSX type S would cure this or is the gear itself going bad? Thanks in advance. Good video brother. Thumbs up. Oh I started getting that code after I changed the gear only.
I feel that a k24 engine swap is better than the LS swap I see on many forums. It's a light engine, and putting lots of weight in the front like the Ls would be detrimental to handling
@@AnthonyDLH well with the cost of car ad everything I was trying to do over 10k went over budget so I sold everything for 7k would've ended up costing me about 12-15k to finish I couldn't justify that for an NA miata I ended getting an ND and just making payments stock ND is far superior car
I'm interested in seeing the swap taking place. I know how to pull motors and put em in, but I'm wanting to see what all is needed for it to run after the motor install, ecu, drive train...etc. thanks.
While we don't have videos for the full swap yet, we do have a detailed installation guide. If you have questions that you don't see answered here, just email us: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1109/4350/files/InstallationGuideandDisclaimer-January2017.pdf?17741694912600647346
I'm really interested in Doing this Swap to My 1991 Na Miata I was just curious and wanted to know if the stock five speed transmission would be OK? Mine is very healthy. Also I'm aware that the K24 sits a little bit higher in the in NA Miata and I don't really want to cut my hood so I'll probably be leaning towards getting a K20 since it fits a bit more snug allowing the hood to close. One more question I have is is there a preferred K 20 engine to go after or to purchase i'm not too familiar with Honda K-series so I want to make sure I buy a good K 20 that's gonna give a good output one of my friends suggested the K20a2 but I just want to get some more information from you guys on what's your opinion of which K 20 I should get. Oh and as far as the harness what did you guys do about the engine harness For example ( keeping the turn signals, headlights, radio Ect, ) thank you guys again and I look forward to your response & I am looking forward to doing business with you guys soon Thanks -Dean
Hi Dean, the stock 5 speed should do ok with the K20, especially if you eventually go with an NB 5 speed. Go with a k20a2 or k20z1, those are the best options if you're sticking with a k20. Go to our website and download the installation guide, it will include details to do all wiring and have fully functioning gauges and accessories. If you have other questions just shoot us an email to sales@kmiata.com. Thanks
Very nicely done. In these applications, I have always used a drop of low strength thread cement on all the fasteners in place. The lowest strength grade [pink Loctite] is enough. Even the medium strength [blue Loctite] is easily undone with hand tools. This gives you a well defined break-away torque on removal. While this this is the method I learned ages ago, and the approach I think of as 'normal best practice' perhaps it is not that common. Any thoughts? I like the lower chain guide. Nice touch.
Sorry to bump and old thread, but from what I've heard, the cylinder head was redesigned for the 06-08 model years and is actually the better flowing cylinder head when compared to a K20. It's a difference of around 5-10 CFM if I remember correctly. In conclusion, don't worry about the cylinder head for two reasons: Reason one being that you already have the better cylinder head design installed and reason two being that the power differences between the two designs are not significant enough to warrant the time and money spent swapping the two different heads, even if you had the older style cylinder head from the 04-05 model years. Hope this info helped and wasn't delivered too late!
Interesting video. I just learned about the Miata K swap today (a video just showed up in my feed here) It's interesting. My question, how is it possible because to the best of my knowledge, all the K series Honda engines (except the S2000) are FWD, how do you convert a transverse FWD engine to longitudinal RDW for the swap? Thanks
@@awoljones4908 That's what I was thinking, thanks for the reply, no worries. I've just rarely seen a transverse engine used in a rear wheel drive that someone made, So I was curious as to installation.
It easier in some ways. You don't have to change the oil pump or cam gear. However, our headers will sit 3/4" of an inch lower with a K20, so you may want to modify the header if you're concerned with ground clearance.
Is it hard to do this swap? I know these days everything is possible, but IF FWD engine is made with mount in front of an engine, how can you bolt engine mounts to sides? Thank you for answer
We use existing holes on the sides of the engine block for our mounts. The right side mount is bolted to the FWD half shaft location, and the left side uses three M12x1.25 bolt holes that are unused on the side of the block. Everything is bolted together very securely.
I am very interested and will make the move if and when I can figure out how to keep a/c. Just finished watching the video. Delete heat? Uh-oh. But we dont have to delete heat right? A/c and heat are too important for me as a street toy.
Heat normally is retained, we just delete it in the track cars. A/C is doable, we've already had one car with functioning A/C, and are working on an A/C kit right now, which will be available soon.
Yes! That's brilliant! Many many thanks. I actually came across your facebook page and read a comment you guys left concerning a/c and was happy to have read that you guys were finalizing on the design. It was either wait and purchase it from you guys or see if I could have it fabricated somehow. I love the K series motor and I think it is a great fit for the car. Of course I do love the torque of a v6 J series. However, when outweighing the cost and time into it, it didn't make much sense so the answer for me was K series. I wish you all at Kmiata with great success in your business :)
Thank you! Our A/C and P/S kits will be compatible with all swap kits past and present, so don't let it hold you back from getting rolling on the project. The trouble with that J swap torque is that it breaks transmissions. The K series is within the limits of the Miata trans, so its a perfect combo.
No need to delete heat, we just did it on this particular build for track use. We also have an A/C kit around the corner so all creature comforts can be retained.
All depends on how you build it. Check out www.kmiata.com and click on FAQs and Planning Guide and you'll find info on parts needed and approximate costs.
Changing the intake cam gear to a 50 degree unit gives a big midrange bump in power, usually 20+ hp and tq on these engines, so its always worth doing.
All depends what you're trying to do. But the best engine right out of the box for the Miata swap tends to be a 2006-2008 TSX engine, like in this video (k24a2).
k24a4 block, k20a2 head, 06-08 tsx cams or RSX type s cams, tsx rods and pistons, with bolt ons you should see 220ish whp. Everyone is welcome to correct me of I am wrong.
Yes, except most of these items already come on a k20a2. All you have to do is swap the pump housing. This video shows you what's needed to put all the k20a2 parts on a k24. So if you start with a k20 you're most of the way done already.
@@kpowerindustries8210 Hi, question about the cluster, NB cluster max redline at 8k RPM. does it limit the revving or the needle just keep going beyond the range?
Easy, BMW E36/E46 trans. We'll have a full kit available for it soon. We're in the process of building a 600whp car right now. Read more here: kmiata.com/blogs/news/big-news-bmw-transmission-upgrade-for-your-miata
I feel that a k24 engine swap is better than the LS swap I see on many forums. It's a light engine, and putting lots of weight in the front like the Ls would be detrimental to handling
