Charlie, I’m rebuilding my layout. I have been ordering brand new code 83 track.it doesn’t mater what fish plates I use with code 83 or code 100, does it. I bought a lot of engines and cars second hand. Because I was still working on my layout, I didn’t look at them all. I have since found out that one of my engines has the back set of wheel tide on. Do you know where I could get it fixed. In the UK or the States. Finally, I needed to know how to fix couplings but I found your video. Thanks for putting it online. Bob
I wholeheartedly agree with this! Our HO Scale model Railway here in Beaverton, OR, USA requires it's members to use KaDee couplers on all rolling stock and locomotives. It saves so much headache if we need to do an coupler repair during a show because we all have the repair parts. I wish you would have discussed the shelf-pin couplers that KaDee produces. They're great when you have a modular layout or long strings of cars.
Totally agree Anthony, this is a reference video for posterity. I am just starting to understand them for my kit built wagons and need to learn which ones I need. Top job again Charlie 🤩
Hi Charlie I started using Kadee couplings years ago. With a fair bit of stock I set up a few wagons with one Kadee only. I used them as transition wagons and converted the rest one at a time. As a teenager then funds were limited. Also the other end of the guage can be used to work out the thickness of the packing required. Love your videos. Paul from Zillmere
Charlie, Thank you for your videos. Your knowledge in different aspects of Model Railways is very impressive. Your ability to share that knowledge with other fellow modellers with varying levels of understanding, is even more impressive. Charlie to Model Railway is like Sir David Attenborough to animal documentaries. Brilliant.
From an Australian who uses Kadees all the time, you have explained these rather well. I use the Kadee NEM socket couplers on my few European locomotives, much improving functionality. Also anyone with a fleet of coal wagons certainly needs a bulk pack, they do get cheaper with the larger sized packs. ;) And finally, if you move wagons around to a club often, springs can come out more frequently, but is a super minor issue if you pack the models well.
Thank you Charlie for these great explanations, I never new what center set meant, now I know how to adjust the height between each cars ;) love the Union Jack pin by the way :)
Great! Thanks for producing this. For the information of anyone worrying about old stock with "non-NEM" couplings to change, around half of my vehicles fit this description, some being around forty years old. Yes, there's some surgery involved, but it is relatively easy.
Here in the US we will sometimes use thin shim washers between the car and the truck to being the coupler more in line with the standard height. Sometimes you can take the center mount coupler (the only ones I have ever used) and bring the couplet up to the proper height. I have had to file off a little of the mounting nub (?) where the truck is screwed into the body of the car to lower the coupler. The low and high mount would sometimes fix the problem but is you need just a little adjustment, you might use the above mentioned system. Again I feel that the best action of the KD is the ability to set out the cars and pull away from them leaving them spotted where you want...
Charlie, I've been eyeing up Kadee for a while and you've explained more here than everything else I've found so far.... I shall now have a go. Many thanks!!
You are quite correct it is about time there is an industry wide standard not only for the fitting of NEM pockets but height and the style of tension lock couplings. There is a group of us here in France who meet up and run our stock on each others layouts and my D600 Warship in particular does not couple well the carriages with the standard Hornby supplied coupling. The couplings on both vehicles are the standard couplings supplied in the box from new.
When I ran US prototypes in both HO and N, I always used Kadee"s as they were so easy to fit. Now I'm back with UK OO and the coupling issue is a nightmare. I need to bite the bullet and equip my locis and rolling stock with these wonderful couplings, but the irregular heights was an issue Now I know what to do so thank you!
Great video! When I was big into NTrak I also used Unimate couplers for long drags of coal cars. Coal cars are usually not individually switched.. So, I had a 5 car set with Unimates between the cars and Kadees on the end cars. It made it cheaper to equip 5 cars strings with couplers. In operations the theory was each 5 car string was never separated. That worked well.
Thanks for the information. I have not gotten into changing couplers yet and have not looked into anything about couplers myself, you are the only the second person to talk about the kadee guage. The first video I watch said that you should just have the two couplers touch but not connect. Then to see if they are at the correct height you look at the center line on the car and the center of them height guage should be in the same plane. To un-couple them you can also use a stick like the one you used at the beginning by inserting it into the couple and giving it a small twist.
Thanks Charlie That has to be the most informative video of this minefield there is , gives me a bit more confidence in changing my couplings Cheers Keith
One of the greatest advancements in model railroading. In the States we had "slide hook" couplers... they're our version of toy couplings like your tension locks. unreliable things that are almost impossible to couple onto while on a curve and a pain in the arse to uncouple. The magnet uncoupling is only useful for a hard to reach spot on your layout, otherwise just use a cocktail stick (no need to lift the car up) so you can uncouple anywhere on the track you'd like. Now KaDees aren't perfect but they definitely are better than other options. Cheers from the States Charlie!!
Thank you Charlie for a fantastic, clear and informative video on these couplings. I'm just starting to build up stock etc to start a layout and this has been a fantastic help. Thank you from a cold and wet Scotland
Hi Charlie, the #20 extra long couplers are underset. If you have a look at the Kadee homepage it gives you the exact dimensions and it specs. But you are right, all nem couplings are only available as underset. Regards, Mark.
Charlie, this video has been a total eye opener with regards to the different types and heights etc, I’ve bought a few packs of NEM kadee’s but not fitted any yet, I’ve saved this video for future reference, keep up the good work
You can mix and match most types of Kadee's depending on what rolling stock you use as each has a different coupler box some bigger or smaller, wider, narrower etc... You may find you need 1 coupler on the front a car then need a different for the back to make it all hook up. Some of these couplers are down right dastardly in putting them together and the included instructions are usually very vague especially pertaining to the springs. Great brand and they have something for everything. Nice video thank you.
Yes you can mix them, but it is somewhat of a nightmare trying to get the heights exactly right. it really is a case of trial and error. Regards Charlie
Great video, you did a great job of explanation of Kadee the are the best, in the states Kadee have what is called a horn hook coupler that comes on most cars but best manufacturers have turned to their version of kadee now but we still convert over the kadee as they work the best. Now n scale is a whole different game....thanks for sharing....Jack 👍
Well done Charlie. Excellent presentation. You can use double sided tape to manipulate your NEM couplings and stop coupler droop. You can also use it to adjust the height of the NEM pocket. Not perfect but its cheap and effective. You need the one with a thicker backing. The odd washer under a coupling pocket can also adjust height.
Very useful video. I have found that Kaydee pins can strike point tie bar mechanisms and rip the coupling out of the NEM socket. Some people snip the pin off but bending it upwards makes better sense. Yes, tension locks are rubbish - I frequently have unscheduled slipped coaches with those!
Interesting video Charlie .Totally agree with your comment about the couplings in the UK . With the horrendous prices manufacturers are now imposing on us surely its not to much to ask for a decent looking coupling.
I use only #158, #146, #118, & #119's. I have always modified my draft gears to accept only these because I am not dealing with the centering springs, weird boxes, etc. Everything runs perfect for years now!!
@@ChadwickModelRailway I hate to hear that & I know my friends have the same issues. I am an aviation engineer & I am always looking to improve things. I really do not take anything at face value if that makes any sense-lol!
I love your vids Charlie, and this is really useful info that has got me considering automatically switching all my stock and locos to Kadee when I can set up a proper little railway once again when I've got the sheltered, insulated and powered space to do so in a shed.
I’m tempted to make the jump. I have 3 Kadees scattered around and will soon buy some more for the ends of coach/wagon rakes and locos. As for the intermediate couplings between the coaches, I’ve settled on the Bachmann pipe style close couplers.
Have to say, I have been using KayDes for several years, I found it all a bit of a headache to start with but once you get your head around it, it all becomes clear. It's amazing what a difference they make to the look of a rake of 30 wagons, don't be afraid of mixing up lengths on one wagon. I put a short coupling on one end and a medium on the other and as long as the corresponding wagon has the opposite side you can get them even closer without the dreaded buffer lock.
Awaiting my first 148 packet from Kadee right now - along with a bunch of new metal wheels and washers based on your last video regarding fixing those first. Thanks for your expertise, Charlie!
Thank you Charlie that was very helpful indeed your right on all counts some of these firms just sit on the fence, that's how we lost our motor cycle industry .well you have sold me Charlie i will be swapping over a bit at a time. Thank you.
I use tension locks, just beacuse its easy for me. But i remove one hook on the end of rolling stock so its just a loop. That way I can lift locos off really easy to swap them about or add and remove more rolling stock. Works very well I find.
Thanks for the good videos. Kadee used to use a bronze spring (copper colour) in the gear box. About 10 years ago they began making the ones with the wire whisker springs but also continued making the old ones. You mentioned getting some #5s, they have the bronze springs. The equivalent with the whiskers is #148.
Nice video Charlie. We get the same issue in N gauge. Recently bought some Dapol knuckle couplers for nem sockets only to discover that the Dapol coaches I had bought “new” did not have me sockets. Crazy
Just watched the video and never realised that UK outline manufacturers had such an issue with NEM 362 height. I moved to continental HO and discovered NEM pockets and ROCO close couplers in 1989 and never looked back. I now run stock with Roco close couplers in the rake and Kadees on locos and at the end of rakes. I have had no issues with pocket height across an assortment of manufacturers including Roco, Electrotren, Mabar and Mehano. The use of Kadees on Locos has allowed me to chuck Atlas and Athearn into the mix........! I am looking forward to the next video. I am always surprised at exhibitions the lack of 'grown up' couplings on otherwise exceptional layouts and stock. Love the channel and have subscribed.
Hi Charlie as always a very informative video . I agree totally that something as important as coupling the UK has not come that far forward since when I had my first train set 40+ years ago. I don't have tight curves but find the small tension locks cause derailments or unwanted uncoupling. So I have changed to putting mid size tension locks on loco and first wagon/coach. And there is not even a UK standard for tension locks either ..
Excellent Charlie I have noticed that some modellers have been painting the trip pins on their KD’s to resemble air hoses. Black with a small dab of silver at the end to represent the actual metal coupling.Always enjoy your subject matter cheers.
Charles, Charles, Charles.... I've been back and forth about swapping to Kadees for a while now - not necessarily for the 'auto uncoupling' - but because I think they look nicer than tension lock, cause less derailments and are stronger than the magnetic Couplings I have at the moment, while nice they do come apart with heavier longer trains... So it's off to camp Kadee we go! Using NEM ones, £10 for two sets... Thankfully I've only got around 10 wagons 😁👍
Another marvellous video Charlie. You have a wonderful knack of explaining things in easy to understand terms. It's truly a gift. I immediately switch all my stock with NEMs to Kadees but have so far baulked at changing the non-NEM stock. You've inspired me to 'have a go' when I can next get to a shop (we're in week three of another COVID lockdown in Sydney right now). I took the opportunity to check out McKinley Railway and my head exploded at the money being spent there! It's truly epic in scope but my goodness, how much must it have all cost?!
Another awesome vid Charlie, I am in the throws of converting to Kadee myself and have run some wagons so far without any issues of uncoupling in transit (like some of the old Lima couplers eek. There is also to throw another spanner in the works a rotary coupler, yes these look like Kadee and act like them but they also rotate in their "gear box" for people who want to use something like the walthers rotary dumper, rather than uncoupling each wagon. Keep up the great work and yes McKinley Railway when you first mentioned it, amazing layout :).
I've used them for years and love them. A4s ,class 33, class 66 , mk1 coaches for example do in real life have buckeye couplers so I'd argue that they are sort of prototypical. I don't use the magnetic uncoupling system so I cut off the bar completely to make them look even less obtrusive. I'm often asked to make a video like this but ,never found a way of explaining properly the problems encountered. Viewers tend to ask what number do I use for a certain type of wagon and of cause its not that simple. Great video.
Thanks for the demo, Charlie. I have long hated the tension lock couplings and remember with some fondness the old Hornby Dublo ones, provided they were of metal construction and not plastic. They were unforgiving of uneven track and trains would split on excessive undulations, but vehicles could be easily lifted out as with Kadee's. Maybe we could persuade Dominic Cummings to take it up with the industry as he seems to get his way with everything!
Great video as always Charlie. Really enjoyed learning more about KDs. I have a big fleet of stuff all with tension locks and have wondered about fitting some with KDs in future. Thanks
Great video Charlie I've got to agree with you regarding your comment about the UK manufacturers and the nem pockets, it's a joke and a pain in the bum getting these things to work because they aren't all identical!???. Due to the helix on my layout I'm finding more and more I'm having to switch the locomotive to first wagon coupling to kadee to ensure everything stays coupled on either up or down trips. It certainly isn't cheap but its the best solution I've found so far. The other option is the solid coupling. I never realised you could bend the kadee bars up, you learn something everyday, thanks. Cheers Paul
Hi Charlie. Interesting video about the Kadee's. Personally dont use them myself as you say, the hieght problem and number of different couplings types in this country is a mind field. I have ripped everything out and started a fresh and use Sprat & Winkle (looking forward to the next instalment on these) they are good for kitbuilt models as well as RTR.i only fit the " hook" to one end of each wagon. They are impossible to fit to bogie diesel loco's so just use the bar with a couple of double ended wagons to act as a barrier wagon. Cheers Colin
One of the reasons I model American, scale couplings! 😁 You can still get the metal height gauge. Remember though don't use it on live track. The Americans don't use NEM cause all the stock and locos use gearboxes. If you want to uncouple without the magnets, go to your local Wetherspoons, have a Burger and a pint and use the skewer as an uncoupling tool. Works for me every time!
Yes I have always hated those “Hornby/Triangle tension lock couplings. They never looked real and the coaches were always too far apart as you demonstrated with the container flats. One would have thought by now that Hornby would have “Grown-Up” and installed knuckle couplings, similar to the Kadee couplings.
The issue is compatibility, now all their current and past ranges are based around the traditional couplings or something compatible and it would cause a lot of confusion to change it after such a long time.
A most informative video, thank you for taking the time to explain all that you did. It has helped me in my endeavors to make more informed decision on changing out my couplers. I'm from the states and all my equipment is at least 40 years old, and all I have is hook horn couplers. At the moment I cannot justify buying a whole set of Katie couplers to replace my hook horn couplers. Price is certainly something that we've all had to deal with and when you're on a fixed budget it makes it even more imperative to way the pros and cons. Thank you again for the video, I am one that really appreciate your effort.
Two possible solutions got your COFC flat car: 1) instead of mounting the draft gear box onto the truck (bogie), cut the flange off the bogie so you can mount the box to the car body itself; that, and an underset shank coupler, should raise it up enough to clear the coupler height gauge, and allow it to couple with the other cars (wagons), such as those tank cars you started with. 2) get an American COFC flatcar, and repaint it in the British colors; all the stuff over here is pretty much already equipped with Kadee (or compatible) couplers right out of the box. The only problem here, is that the track gauge is the same, but our HO scale is 1:87.1, whereas OO scale is 1:76, so the American car will be a bit narrower than expected. Also, the containers will be at 1:87 scale as well - they’ll fit loosely on your British COFC car, but the converse is not true; your British containers probably won’t fit the American COFC car, at least not without modification. The powdered graphite lubricant comes in handy for other things as well; stock up on some! 😎
Thanks William, a very useful comment. I will certainly check out the mounting of the couplings on the wagon body itself rather than on the biggie. Many thanks Charlie.
Thanks a lot gentleman for a presentation that is, let's say it clearly, pedagogic. I am back to OO gauge after issues with british N (including couplings), and I am seeing now why tension-lock couplers are a drag. As you said, Kadee have a good reputation, and it is justified : decent price, ease of use, good aspect, and reliability, highlighted by some modellers. You have also presented honestly the issues with UK rolling stock, and I will check this on my brand-new bought little fleet before deciding to go for Kadees or not (just bought the Symoba gauge at Peter's Spares, cheap and will do the job). I guess my Oxford Rail N7 would have no height issue with their NEM pockets, but I am doubtfull with my Hornby Black 5 and my Bachmann Webb Coal, and others from those brands. As I had put my locos on my workbench for checking and installing extra parts, I will check their NEM pockets heights on the go next weekend. As you said, you have to find workarounds for locomotives. For wagons, my solution would be if NEM does not work, trim off the NEM box and use Kadee gearbox instead, height ajustable at will... Anyway, one issue sometimes put forward for the reliability of NEM Kadee couplers is the fact that they have two pivoting point, one with the NEM box itself, and a second one at the fixation of the coupler's head. It is said that it is a issue that prevents a good working of the coupler, and it is recommended to use a Kadee with a Kadee gearbox instead. I am doubtfull about this, and your advice on this point is welcome.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Well, that was an answer I was expecting, but I would rather have a confirmation. Honestly, if they would have been any issue with the NEM Kadee couplers vs. gearboxed Kadee, that would have been widely known by now, and I would not have heard from it from one single source (a french modeller who discards NEM boxes and pu Kadees on gearboxes instead due to his theory on two pivots) plus a lonely mention on a RMweb forum. As we say in legal affairs : "testimus unus, testimus nullus ", lone witness, testimony useless. Roughly, as what I have seen, you can count one UK railway modeller on two who use Kadees. That is too much to hide a theoretical problem with two pivots on NEM instead of one on gearboxed ones. Well, I'm in for Kadees, and thanks for your precious point of view. You can also add an advantage of Kadees with this item : rixproducts.com/product/rix-uncoupling-tool-ho/ . Walther's from the USA sells it, and that would be astonishing that no UK retailer have it. Uncoupling anywhere and without touching your rolling stock with it. Cannot be done with tension-lock...
Hello Charlie, When I first decided to get into model railways I went to a few of my friends who have layouts, most of whom ran Hornby locos and Hornby rolling stock. One of the first things I noticed were the ugly couplers and also the difficulty they had uncoupling one wagon from another. Then I saw a layout where all his stock had been converted to Kadee couplers, so it was a very easy decision to go down the Kadee path little by little because as you rightly pointed out it is not a cheap exercise. Luckily for me I don`t have a large layout, hence I have never had the need to run long trains, so it is not costing me an arm & a leg to convert to Kadee couplers, a decision I have not regretted. I will look forward to your next video. Cheers Greg
Hi Charlie yes it can be quite frustrating when the NEM pockets are all at the wrong height. I have large amounts of old wagons plus the kit built stuff that are yet to receive Kadees. Price wise it's always worth looking in the rummage boxes at shows as often there's at least one '3 wagons for a fiver' box there and you can sometimes get some good bargains in them/ I managed to get some good Bachmann ones last time. I do like to buy things on Ebay a lot and obviously a lot of it is tat but then it means it's ok to experiment with them as you're not screwing up a £20 wagon or coach doing that and you can get a good idea of what the coupling will be like in service. Another point about uncoupling is cupboard door magnets work pretty well and fit under the track quite unobtrusively and they're much cheaper than the named Kadee items so maybe that is worth a look. Great video, thanks for posting it.
Top episode Charlie I been through trying to work it out years ago you video would help a lot of people out who are just starting with them top job again as always keep it up
Cor just like my old Hornby three rail couplings from the 1950s. (Which I still have I might add), Never liked Triang then for the reasons you mentioned seems like nothing has improved in all those years. Just starting the hobby again thanks for the information Charlie.
Brilliant vids and all this really helps me to sort my coupling problems. Don't mean to be rude Charlie...but your Ruler is a Rule. I am retired now from a life in Engineering, and way back in my college days of my apprentice, the lecturer would tell you as he held it up...this is a rule not a ruler...a ruler is a King or Queen etc he would say, but that measuring instrument is a Rule. Sorry couldn't help myself. Thanks for your constant giving.
Great video. I took the plunge and put some #19 NEM socket Kadee couplings on some Hornby BR Mk1 coaches. They work great and look fantastic - far better than the tension lock and huge gap between coaches. I am planning on doing some more. Would you be able to do a video showing how to convert without NEM pockets or with the wrong sort of pocket (older Hornby for example) wagons/coaches/locos to the correct NEM pocket type/height etc. Love the channel.
Hello Charlie A while ago you did a video on 3D printed 3 link couplings. I liked these so ordered some. You can use the offset ones to couple the incorrect height nem pockets to the correct height ones and just use Kadees on the end wagons. This also saves some costs on Kadees. As you suggested I make the wagons up in rakes of 3, 4 or 5.
I am in the US and I can attest to the fact that it's not just in the UK. While a lot of US modelers love the trip pins as they somewhat look like the airlines for the brakes I have consistently cut the pins. No matter what you do sometimes it will always drop too low. So I gave up on magnetic uncoupling. The semi scale couplers (not sure kadee number off hand) don't suffer as much. Although my favorite knuckles are Rapido (Canadian) MacDonald Cartier couplers. Not easy to get without buying there rolling stock. Anyway awesome video as always.
Thank you for the video. As you mentioned, the Kadee design is designed to look like the Buckeye coupler. The line is quite extensive. This variation not only allows different shank length, for various mounting designs. They have different variations of the Buckeye design. One example is a shelf coupler. Here in North America, they are used on tank cars (wagons). The reason is because on uneven track, the knuckles can bypass. If that happened, then the adjoining car could puncture the tank of its neighbor. This could be very hazardous if the cargo is a dangerous material. Another variation is the tight lock. These are used on some locomotives, passenger stock, and rotary dump coal cars. Kaydee have a not as extensive line of “scale” couplers. They are smaller, and more in scale with 1:1 couplers. They might be good if your equipment is for display, or if the track and baseboard are extremely level. For reliability sake, the standard size is what I use.
Hey Charly, Well me I am using some kinds of Kadee Knuckle Couplers or even some Kadee compatible Knouckle Couplers from other Manufacturers like Mc Henry, Accumate, Bachmann E-Z Mate Mark II Couplers or something else. Some of the Companies do manufacturing NEM 362 Shaft Couplers, too. A very big importance is to know, the the NEM 362 Couplers Short Coupling Backdrop Mechnanismn are requiring a rigid coupling connection between two wagons so the backdrop mechnismn can dropping the two wagons away from each other inside curves, so that the buffers will be not overlapping. The Kadee NEM 362 Couplers do have got an hinge behind the coupler heads so the backdrop mechanismn probably will not work like expected, si it will be important to fix the NEM Backdrop machanismn and/or using longer Kadee NEM 362 Coupler shafts than Couplers of No. #17. In my cause I can use Kadee Couplers to german era I models in thr period of 1899 to 1909 because the prussian state railway did a big Coupler test of testing the Krupp Knuckle Middlebuffercoupler. This special middlebuffer coupler was a better Version of the US Janney Coupler but had been created compatible to side buffers and Link and Hook Couplers at one side of the moveable Couplershaft what could be fixed be a bolt when swinging into side position to couple european standard hook and link couplers. After the ten year test in 1909 the royal prussian state railway made the wrong decission against the Krupp Cpuplers, maybe the replacement costs of expected over 10 Million Goldmark were to expensive for them? In my Cause, my fictional private northetn german era I railway company is doing this coupler test, too, so I can use Kadee Couplers to my models, too.
An excellent comment Ingo. I do like Kadee’s and find that No 17 are too short for my stock. Sometimes though, Kadee are not always the best solution. Regards Charlie
You could take a look at Hunt Couplers Charlie. Perhaps the answer to a maidens prayer. As they offer versatility and its an ideal that's bound to catch on. Magnetic couplings work well in O gauge and have been in use for a number of years. Hunt are currently being made for the modern image market and the type of stock you run. But have the potential to provide couplings for all stock. Well worth looking at Charlie. Perhaps Kadee has met its match.
Hi Richard, yes I’m very interested in the hunt couplers. Apparently they have now sold out so I’ll have to wait to get my hands on some. Mind you I worry that they won’t have the strength when dealing with trains that run through a helix. Regards Charlie.
Charlie, thanks again for another informative and entertaining video. You’ve just started to touch on the elephant in the room here at the end of this video and that is that none of the couplings out there are perfect, every type is a compromise of some sort. Although Kadees work in a more prototypical way they are way too big in scale terms than real buckeye couplers. It all comes down to what matters most to you. So if I put up some criteria you could say: easiest operation = Kadees,, best comparability across manufacturers = tension locks, most realistic = 3 link, least obtrusive automatic coupling = Alex Jackson, cheapest = Spratt and Winkle. So many options each with its good and bad points.
Hello Charlie, Very good video. Have used these couplings on all my stock. Could not agree more with your comments on the lack of standardisation on modern NEM pockets. With old stock you would expect to have to play with shims to adjust the height of the coupling but not with standard NEM. In extreme cases I have had to cut away the fixing for a droopy NEM pocket and use wiskered couplings. Keep up the good work
G'Day Charlie, nicely done again as usual. Mate can you imagine the tediousness of having to convert 350 100Tonn ore cars PER iron ore train - BUT on top of that I have to turn them into full 360° rotating couplings so as the Rotary Ore Dumper can process each wagon as it arrives at the Port! Bulk Packs are my friends! lol
Wonderful video Charlie. I think I shall look into investing in some of these for myself. You did a great job at explaining how they work. Looking forward to part 3. GWR
Greetings from Wisconsin! I've just subscribed. In the US, the Kadee-style couplers have taken over nearly completely. When I was young most kits and ready-to-run cars and locos came with "NMRA" type couplers, which were hideous looking. All "serious" modellers replaced them with Kadee types. Since Kadee's patents timed out, other manufacturers now make that style, but usually in plastic and not with the variety of types made by Kadee. My layout is a shunting layout and I've used small homemade blades on sticks to do the uncoupling, quite satisfactorily. Cheers. PS. The original Kadees had a straight narrow pin that was less reliable.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I look forward to more videos. By the way, when I was VERY young, besides NMRA and Kadee couplers there were also Mantua couplers. These had a ring and hook, similar to couplers I see on British models. Mantua was a company that made HO models but is no longer around. Cheers.
Center set shank - easy for you to say - haha not possible for me (wife says it is because I'm older than dirt)...Whisker springs are sooooooooo much better than the original.......So many of us here in the states will mount the uncoupling magnets under the track the magnet never interfears with the pins like you showed. I don't like the magnets at all so I cut off the pins and the coupling looks so much more realistic. I like the delay aspect of the couplers in that I can off set one coupler, back the train into the car, and then push it to the place where I want to spot it and them just pull away leaving he car in place. You never have to worry about the problems you have at the 18:55 time line If you "under mount" the magnet. Of course you have to mark it in some way... Love the videos Charlie...
Great video Charlie. I went to look at my Walthers and Athearn box cars to see how close they couple as I want to buy several for the Airfix tanker and silo wagons I have built as they work well aesthetically on those in my view. I will stick with the 3 link couplings on my mineral wagons as they look more in keeping. I did pick up the KD electromagnetic coupler at a train fair in the 90s when things cost a few Pounds, so am curious now to see how it can all work. I think I will look at that starter pack 1030 you mention and maybe an economy pack as I have about 20 wagons to kit out. Thanks again for a great video
@@ChadwickModelRailway Small update, after MUCH research, I bought several packs of the 146, #19 #20 and #5's plus the height gauge and gearboxes as I picked up a 25 pair pack of Bachmann EZ Mate couplers while surfing. My added fun (not) being based in France is finding sellers that ship at a fair cost and they hv a smart website that auto deducts the VAT. Anyway its been an education and first tests on the Airfix kits look promising. Ramble over. Cheers PS the Over and Under (set) refers to the relative shank position to the back of the buckeye head when viewed in side elevation 🙃
Another well done video, Charlie! Kadee couplers are the standard on my layout (well.... what WILL be my layout if I ever get the track down! ). There are other companies that manufacture metal knuckle couplers, but noone else has any where close to the variety that Kadee has. Avoid, at all cost, the plastic knuckle couplers! They will break at the worst possible moment, such as when your locomotive is hauling a long, heavy train up a grade. Then you have a backwards runaway! As Yoda from "Star Wars" might have said "End well, that will not."
