Smooth work there Kai. Those complaining about your chalk tech clearly misunderstand the circulatory benefits of alternately dropping your arms below the heart.
funny, i watched this video and thought "man he probably went to chalk up 100 times and got chalk on his fingers twice," lol then looked down here and saw this convo.. I dunno how you do it Kai my hands woulda been sweatin' a storm.. gnarly send man, made it look easy.. watching people climb like this motivates me.. keep it goin!
Well I think, that when you`re still chalking and chalking again it can increase help your psyche. "White powder" is a magic powder :) It reduces nervosity in my case and I think many people use it for decreasing nervosity.
Someone should take that chalkbag away from him sooner than later... A lot of habitual phantom-chalking going on. Beautiful send, way to work those rests!
It is true that dropping your arms causes an increase in blood to flow through your arms. And so increasing the aerobic strength of the muscle. But you don't need to put your hand 'in' the chalk bag in order to do so. It seems a lot more effective if he would just shake it out every once in a while.
You mistake kai''s incredible flow, strength and endurance with the easiness of the route. The "jugs" you speak of once he merges with ultra perm are terrible pockets, slopers and bad crimps. Hes just strong as hell.
He is seriously wasting alot of time and energy "chalking up", hen eeds to learn how to straighten arms when resting and not puting them in the chalkbag every 3 seconds while not even getting chalk on the fingers.