Thanks for the quick response. But, did you check that these adjustments did not interfere with the other measurements of the device (voltage, capacitance, resistance, etc.)? I have a Habotest HD208D that displays AC current 25% higher than the correct value, and I was looking for a video like yours to try to calibrate the device.
Could you please suggest what might be wrong with the same meter model, if it shows twice as less current than there is? For example, the load is pulling 4A but HT208D is showing 2A?
I have noticed in all my Kaiweets meters (and maybe others not sure?) that when I measure the voltage of a lithium ion cell with the probes on the correct polarity I get one figure and if I reverse the probes I get a slightly different figure. Let me try it with my RC3563 and cheap (but surprising accurate) meter from Lowes
My Habotest HT208D displays AC measurement 25% higher than the correct value. I tried to calibrate the device. I turned VR1 and VR2 dozens of times to both sides and the display did not change the values at all. Unfortunately this calibration did not work for AC.
Bought are for amps, if you move one , you have compensated from the other until a sweet spot. But if you have bad readings, try to reset to zero from the right button under the dial. It needs to set to zero before measuring currents.
I have this meter clamp as well. I will also need to check it. It's very bad that they can not adjust it properly in the factory. It would be good if we can improve the lower scale 60 TO 600 AMPS. Its to some one doing tweeks.
Yep! It takes time to calibrate it..for having better measurements under low currents just wrap a wire around the claw ..if you do 10 turns the measurement it's magnifying 10X..
Did you take care to position the wire in the same position for all measurements? You may find that it will make a difference in the reading where the wire is within the clamp even though the theory is that it shouldn't matter. If striving for the maximum accuracy, that needs to be a controlled factor when making measurements and calibrating.
I don't have positioning in my mind..it shouldn't make any difference as long is inside the loop..of course I don't expect much precision for low current measurements..this is a 1000 A! The problem was the difference when changing the polarity of the cable..now it's fixed and behave..
@@hwingerrr5680 I'll do test video about this..good idea..probably in this video I've been cutting/editing to much and values jumps to fast...we'll see.Thanks for idea!
So just secure a cable with helping hands and then create some kind of jig that shows you exactly where to line up your clamp meter? You could just use a few pieces of wood that the top and sides of the clamp fit in. Open the meter away from the jig, get the wire in the middle, and then slide the clamp down so it fits in your jig. I guess you could just trace the outline of your clamp on a piece of wood and have a hole in the middle for your wire to run through. Have the piece of wood raised up a couple inches so the wire can run out the bottom and build an arm on the back of the wood so you have the arm sticking out to the middle of the wood to be able to secure your wire to the end of that arm. Would take 5-10 min to make that jig Doubling the wire wouldn’t be possible because it would mess up the consistency of your clamps location and the wires location in the jig but that’s fine I think we just want to control the variable of wire location within clamp. - | | --- That would be the wood with your outline on the bottom and the arm. Run the wire through a hole in the middle of the bottom piece and then do the same with the arm or just use a cable clamp of some kind at the end of the arm if it lines up well with the hole
DCA measurements always impacted by the residual magnetism of the jaws. That's why, a zero set switch comes as the rescue. If you see any significant values before testing, just press zero set. and start the measurements only after that.
