Kawasaki KLF300 - Starter bearing replacement 

They're a tapered fit, when it 'Pops' it'll pop. It's the main drive, so its on Tight! Don't forget to apply some heat. Is that what you needed to know? Cheers n RSOT >:)

Still might be the bearing? The bearing has roller bearings and also has little 'Throw Pins/Teeth', which engage/Throw Out with the centrifugal force. Then slotting into a gear/cog that spins the motor to start. Those Pins could be smacking into the gear/cog or just making that horrible sound because they're out of alignment/loose. Mine (from memory), sounded like a mixture of grinding steel bits, clunking and definite missing. Hope that helps, Here to continue helping if not. Cheers n RSOT >:)

@@MrFalloffalot did you mean it still may be the bearing on the starter?

@@SBSoutdoors I'm putting my money on the bearing being the fault. Between the starter and the bearing, the bearing is the weaker of the two.

Did you get it sorted yet?

You didn't install the bearing backwards maybe... >:/ So the key is in place and when you push the starter button the engine doesn't turn over or things spin freely yeah?

MrFalloffalot CrashTestDummy TV I solved my problem! I replaced the sprocket that the clutch rides on. I believe my sprocket was too worn (must only be a mm or so worn) that caused the clutch to not grab as it should. To clarify, I replaced both the clutch and the sprocket the clutch rides on. Motor turns as it should now!

@@p2thumper07 Well I'm just glad u got it sorted. Happy Trails to ya, uRSOT >:)

Yeah, you must remember the fitting is Snug. So on or off, it will be 'tight'...if you feel it's abnormally tight, ring your local bearing supplier, they're always helpfull where I go. a smear of oil on the shaft before fitting helps and square-on will slide better. So that 'abnormal tight' I mentioned could always be that too perhaps?? Hope you get it sorted, but Certainly let me know either way. Cheers n RSOT >:)

I appreciate the reply! I filed the crank down a lil more to wear it was snug but didn’t bind when reinstalling everything! All is good now. Runs like a champ kinda lol. I have a rev after throttle released still I’m sorting out but at least the battery is now charging!! New air-filter and new carb! Not sure whats going on. Mine is missing the rest if the tube coming off the head. Looks like a breather or vacuum tube. Can you send me a video of the right side of the bike showing me where the other end goes. I cant seem to figure it out.

Gday Christian. Did you position the Key correctly? It may have moved while pushing the basket on maybe (did for me on another bike). I positioned the key so as I slid the basket on, the flat top on the key was angled in such a way to allow it to move into its position as I slid everything on. The correct way to do this job is with pullers and probably some kind of 'Pusher'? --UPDATE-- Ok, so I just did a Massive search on google for special tools, videos, manuals, etc. I did find a bearing and by the looks of the part - www.amazon.com/Caltric-STARTER-BEARING-KAWASAKI-2003-2011/dp/B014RPLX0O, it's totally different to the KLF300 I had. As yours is a later model, they could have done a ReDesign, so perhaps it goes on differently?? Maybe if you drop into your local workshop, take em a Six-Pack of CORONA Beer (for immunisation purposes...lol), ask them if they could run you through the fitment process. I am REALLLLY sorry I couldn't help. If I was local, I'd drop in to help... Hope you get it sorted, let me know how you went too (it'll help the next person viewing this video). Cheers, Spk soon & uRSOT >:)

I have repositioned the key many times haha. I can't seem to find anything online. Everyone who has this problem in a forum gets no response and every video if they take it off they don't put it back on. Thanks for the quick reply though!

@@bluepen56ify Yeah I hear ya. Even I have to admit I have 'incomplete' videos. What area do you live, I can help with a search for help in your state/area. Also, do you know if it has changed since my older model? I think I kept a w/shop manual when I sold the quad?? I'll have a read too. Its probably going to need Pressing on, as this is a Gentler and usually a Factory way of putting things on shafts. Also, How are you hitting it on? Using grease on the shaft? Are you working your way around the surface or just hitting one spot? With or without a socket/tube?? Oh and check the key and its seat aren't scored from all your 'efforts'...lol

My manual states Install is reverse of removal. I was wondering if the puller could somehow reverse and press. But as much as I have tried to make since of how it would actually do that, it seems impossible. I've been checking for any damage after several poundings and seems there is none. I have a metal pipe that fits really well over the crank and I have gone around the edge with a rubber mallet a few times. I am in Jacksonville Florida USA. A friend of mine said we have a atv mechanic a little ways down the road but I was hoping to avoid that. Yet it seems that is what it is coming to.

Also there is residual oil on it but I haven't tried any Grease. Your engine was definitely different but the magneto/Flywheel seemed similar enough.

I did have to heat the base connected to the shaft, the Puller I used was handy (you WILL need one), but heat helped the most. Heat AND puller at the same time. A little 'shock' with a hammer can help too (while under pulling strain). Carefull you dont melt anything else in the process... TFstopping by Jory, keep in touch if it didn't work for you. We can try other things perhaps. RSOT >:)

It could be the 'Key', mine was sheared and slipped past the keyway (jamming it in).

Had to wrap wepping around to hold it while i cross threaded a 1-1/4" fine thread nut on shaft. Couldn't find equivalent metric bold. Used gear puller and light rasp with lead hammer.

.