Kawasaki Valve Lash Adjustment, FR, FS & FX Models (FR691V) 

This is how a repair / maintenance video should be done. Excellent!

Mower Mike, your approach and description of this type of valve adjustment is truly the best I have seen, and I am a small engine tech. I was not familiar with this adjuster, your video is a one stop complete education on the subject Hats off to you, Sir!

Thanks man! This would probably explain my sputtering and popping I’m getting under heavy load. I’ll try and adjust my lash this weekend.

That valve train set up is slick, thank you.

Very nice. Shows how combustion engines work while explaining the to do and not do for adjusting the valves

Excellent Video: Cleary shows how the adjustment works, amazing how simple it is. Thank you!!

Cool video with the "Inside info" on full display!

Great video! My Deere 636m service manual has the specification of Valve Clearance (Intake and Exhaust) ..............0.05-0.10 mm (0.002-0.004 in). Great job!

Good video and what what I was looking for. Just FYI On a 4 stroke Intake, Compression, power, exhaust

Set my fr730 at .004 it is tapping when hot

Prebond is the sealant kawasaki uses for crank case and valve covers!

I like your shirt

Great video!!!

So you mentioned boosting the horsepower. But you didn’t exactly touch on how you did that and I am greatly interested. So far I’ve had to replace the carburetor. I replaced it with a Chinese carburetor which didn’t work very well so I went and got an original Walboro carburetor. There was too much gap eight or 9 thousandths more specifically well over 007 in the number two cylinder exhaust rocker. I tightened that up. It’s closer to 005 right now. I’m having three separate issues number one not achieving 3600 RPM number two I burn up belts like crazy, but every other time I mow the lawn. Number three occasional backfiring once it starts to backfire it keeps on backfiring

Ty for sharing

Without seeing the valves how do you know what is intake or exhaust You stated 0.004 and 0.006 but you didn't explain at top dead center in the rocker cover what valve is on top? Thats critical to know to do proper adjustments. I have a cub cadet with a FH430v The valve lash is pretty much the same on most these motors Looking at the chart online and it says intake 0.004 and exhaust 0.006 i can only assume you adjust the intake (top) first but i don't know if thats the case and if they are reversed on the other cylinder side of the motor 0.002 isn't that much difference and the motor might run but it won't run right. It will either run lean or waste gas and run rough. I have to do my lawn tractor myself Ive got no way to take it to get serviced, and after changing the starter, and starter relay it still cranks slowly leading me to think the valve lash is wrong. Last time i used it it ran fine parked it for a few weeks and now won't start, last option is change battery But now i don't think it was any electrical components, just valve lash causing the problem. And for a 20 year old lawn tractor with about 300 hours on it that sounds about right.

intake stroke, compression stroke, combustion stroke, and exhaust stroke. exhaust stroke is what you referred to as the other top dead center. At that point the exhaust valve will be closing and the intake valve will be opening to start the process over. Intake stroke, will be a down stroke, ie piston moving downwards allowing air fuel mixture in. Compression,up stroke, valves must be closed to allow fuel air mixture to be compressed. Combustion,down stroke, engines spark plug fires,on most engines slightly before top dead center valves are still closed. Commonly referred to as power stroke. Gas air fuel mixture ignites (explosion) pushing piston and rod downward to spin the crank. This is why you want to run the proper fuel in an engine. If you have an engine that needs higher octane and you run lower octane then you risk the compression igniting the fuel before the spark plug ignites it. Heat and compression can cause ignition alone i.e detonation.Lower octane ignites easier than higher. Not related to most lawnmower engines but thought I'd add anyway. exhaust, up stroke, exhaust valve opens allowing burnt gasses to excape. Thats how ya get your 4 cycles. On the exhaust stroke as the piston comes up and is pushing the exhaust gaseses out, depending on valve timing, near or at top dead center the exhaust valve will be closing and the intake will start to open. Why there's pressure on the valves and why you don't want to try and adjust valves at that top dead center. I'm no expert just a diy guy but hopefully that clears some things up on that part of the video.

What’s the torque spec

Pretty sure Kawasaki engine is made in usa

You gave the torque in ft lbs, not nm. It’s 8.7 ft lbs and 5.2 ft lbs respectively, or in nm 11 nm and 7.05 nm, which, as you stated is not much. 87 ft lbs is gonna ruin someone’s day.

Stop calling the engine a motor 😂

Way too much work on that engine. Why? I thoughtvthese are good engines.