Kawasaki Z1B 900 engine repairs - Episode 1 

Lol I agree entirely matey

Watching these videos is like mix of meditation and sorrow over never having done anything close to as cool, with very low tech tools and machines, that most of us actually could get access to.

Sooo true!!

I've always pulled my whole engine and reistalled it upon purchase of a different machine (I've only had two), if only to know that I could, and to get to some understanding of how everything works! Made mistakes and learned from them, had an old '82 cx5oo for over a hundred thousand kms, my Zephyr is being rebuilt at 161K , nothing like as gorgeous as that z1! One day hope to have the correct tools that I don't have and a good enough shed to set up a hobby shop. Thanks for your sensible commentary and including us in your lives. Long admired Mr Millyard's work and skillset. He makes ir look easy, and ordered, and definitely not a chore. Kinda liked the finish on that engine, but vapor blast and clear coat (where I can, unfortunately the clear cerakote fell through for my cases, should've sourced that too! Thanks again. Subscribing.

As a mechanic that had to put stuff together someone had taken apart, I would not mind his ordering of parts disassembled.

Thank you

You’re a pinhead with your pinhead comment @@supermotos

I swear I just checked last night to see if he'd uploaded anything, figured he must be into something or other. Going to really enjoy this rebuild.

that fucker colesy keeping him bust :) ...... alen a true genius @@monkeybarmonkeyman

busy

Yes, glad to see you back as well.

No ? Surely not, it couldn't have been all the personal appearances he's been making or his TV program schedule could it ?..

Thankyou Allen 👍

Very well said !

dont think they screamed at all

Yes, I have run both types, you can see the agricultural early heritage of the British companies and engineering. On the Japanese engine the heritage is industrial, post WW11 and the engineering is made for heavy, mass production and more complex, yet a lot of thought was put in to their construction. I think I read somewhere, Honda put 15% of their profits, into R & D. Kawasaki, had a lot of resources to draw on too.

I would mix the longer bolts with the shorter ones and get scared why in the universe they do not fit anymore!

6 legged hedgehog next

I know exactly what you mean, I have my dads old Sidchrome socket set and spanners, before they moved production to Taiwan, Sidchrome was made in Australia and guaranteed for life. The socket set has 1/2" drive so don't use it too much on my bikes, but the metric ring spanners get used all the time, and the fit and feel is still as good as when they were new 50 yrs ago.

Funnily enough, I remember having that thought in the 1970s, taking Yamaha YDS7 250 and Suzuki GT380 motors apart for exchange cranks and a rebore & fresh top end. I swapped them all out for chromed Allen headed bolts. I got a chuckle, swapping them back to a new, stainless screw set a couple of years ago. On the very same motor (the GT380B). In that regard, it’s a case of everything changes, but the bike still remains the only connection to a misspent youth.

Ditto. Threw our TVs out of the house, cancelling the wretched licence, in early summer 2020. No more lies. Me and Mrs GT380 chat & listen to music of an evening now!

@GT380man I think we're at 16 years without a TV licence now. RU-vid, netflix and amazon are far better value.

Cam lobes facing each other at TDC slightly pointing downward, had a 1325 street motor back in the day.

That’s how pretty much all the 4 cyl dohc Japanese engines work…point ing the lobes together at tdc gets you close (or the opposite depending on which side of the engine your reference is be it #1 or #4 cylinder it can be they will be pointing away from each other!)

its the swinging arm spindle

🤦must pay closer attention!

@@AllenMillyardI have a feeling it’s a recommendation in the manual, no? On the GT750 motors, I believe it’s one of the long engine mounting bolts you can use. IIRC, that’s one I made a special tool for. You screw in a piece of threaded rod, with the threads ground off at the business end, right in the centre of the rotor, until it bottoms onto a depression in the nose of the crank, using a straight blade screwdriver to pinch it tightly into place. The rod sticks out into free air. That end has a hacksaw cut deeply across it, for the screwdriver. When you screw in the engine mounting bolt, it goes tight against that end of the extractor tool. A sharp tap on the mounting bolt head with a light, metal hammer head, and off comes the rotor with a satisfying crack.

The authors of some Haynes manuals, back when they weren't utter shite

that would be a full time job

Glad you enjoyed it

🤔

Yes it’s a lot easier without a film crew

We had to make a torque wrench as part of my fitter/turners apprenticeship when i was young, i still use it and get it calibrated every few years, although the 1/4 & 3/8 drive digital ones get more use on my bikes.

Red wine, evil stuff. I’ll have a glass on you 🍷

@@gdfggggg Nice of you to let me know, that I won't be drinking alone, thanks!

@@leifvejby8023 chin up, bro 👊🏻