Thanks so much! It's definitely a good way to do it if you have the right kind of transducer. I ended up buying a Yakattack Switchblade transducer arm when I upgraded to the Echomap UHD 75sv with the GT54 transducer. Unfortunately this method wouldn't work with that ducer, it would be too high into the hull and the hull would block the side imaging sonar.
@jeffdicks I had to buy an arm myself. I've got a malibu kayaks xfactor. The recesses under it by the scupper holes weren't wide enough to hide it above the bottom of the hull.
Haha glad you found what you were looking for! I don't have a Nocqua currently, but I'm looking at them to make life easier on the kayak rather than lugging around one or two 7ah SLA batteries!
That's pretty easy! What do you think about a pvc reducer coupler (like 1-1\4" to 1", or whatever fits) with small end fitting in scupper hole and big end holding it from falling through, then cut notches opposite each other on large end? Then pull bungies with pre-tied knots up in through reducer and into each notch. That way you don't need to tie knots each time you go out.
That's definately a more "put together" solution that would absolutely look much better. It also would be very inexpensive. I just wanted to show people that you could do it with just about anything they have laying around in their house or garage.
Mate!!!! That's brilliant! I've got plenty of PVC laying around and it was doing my head in trying to get my large Garmin transducer to fit with their bracket thing in the recess. With your solution, it fits fine and the bungie cord will allow the damn thing to fit regardless! Totally appreciate the tip from an Aussie kayak n00b! Playing the video twice for ya hits ;)
That's awesome! Thanks so much, and I'm glad my video could help get the brain juices flowing! I will caution this, though: if the bigger transducer you're talking about is capable of side imaging, you need to be careful mounting high inside of a scupper like in this video. If it's too high, the sidewalls of the scupper will block the side imaging sonar beams, and it won't work properly. Traditional and down imaging will work just fine, though. I found this out the hard way when I upgraded from the striker4 to my ECHOMAP UHD 75sv and ended up getting a YakAttack Switchblade transducer arm to mount my GT54 ducer.
@@jeffdicks The Garmin Echomap 45CV I bought for the kayak has a really long transducer. It doesn't do side imaging, but it is the same size as my boats Garmin 7SV which does. I will be testing the setup later today, but i am confident it will work as intended. I don't like the idea of the over edge (Railblaza) style for potential snagging and the internal glued due the lack of temperature feedback. Thanks again!
If the transducer your using only has traditional 2D imaging, it's a great way to go. That said, since making this video I've upgraded my sonar to the Garmin ECHOMAP UHD 75sv and mounting the Garmin GT-54 transducer like this wouldn't work. The sidewalls of the scupper would end up blocking out the sonar waves rendering my side imaging unusable. I actually bought the Yak Attack Switchblade to use with that transducer, and still use it.
@@jeffdicks I just bought a lifetime 11'6" Kayak today. My 10' wasn't good enough anymore. Wanted bigger for holding camping gear and also better Stability. Rivers here in Iowa are VERY shallow the last 2yrs. Transducer DEFINITELY needs protection in my area.
It worked amazingly for my Garmin Striker4! I've since upgraded my fish finder to a unit with side imaging though, and this method wouldn't work very well with that transducer as it is so high up in the scupper hole, the hull of the Kayak would interfere with the sonar waves for my Garmin SideVu. I bought a YakAttack Switchblade Transducer Arm from www.Frontenacoutfitters.com to combat that
Great idea and video! I’m currently using a through the hull mount for my Garmin Striker Plus 4 but it’s just okay. I’m going to use your scupper mount this season. Thanks for the great video.
Thanks! I'm glad it helped you out! I've since upgraded to a 75sv that has a bigger transducer and is capable of side imaging, so this method doesn't work with the GT-54 ducer. I ended up buying a Yak Attack Switchblade to run that. But for the transducer that the Striker uses, this is the perfect solution to keep it up and out of the way all the time without having to worry about scratching it up or bumping it off rocks and stuff. There are defintely prettier ways to do it than what I did in this video. I've seen some people cut the outline of the scupper out of an old plastic cutting board and use that instead of the bulky and clumsy piece of PVC pipe I used, for example.
@@jeffdicks I got the Echomap UHD 75sv with the GT54 transducer and i'm going to rig something up based on your idea. Why do you think it wouldn't work with the GT54? It's just a bit bigger than the one in your video, no?
@bebertq this method won't allow you to use the Side Imaging capability of the GT54 transducer. Down imaging and 2d will work, but if the ducer is too high up into the hull like it is in this video, the hull of the Kayak will block the side imaging beams. I recommend a YakAttack Switchblade transducer arm for your GT54. At least, that's what I use and it's easy to deploy and recover while mounted on the gunnel tracks of my Coosa FD
This video gave me creativity, however my lowrance transducer is small enough to fit through the hole. I’m looking for a solution for that now. I grinder the metal to fit but it moves under the boat. Still thinking.
This is an awesome video...as all are of them. Probably a really dumb question. I just got my Striker 4 and the power cable is not what I expected to see. Yellow fuse box on the positive and additional brown and blue wires with the ground. Any good videos on how to subdue these for use with the Nocqua battery pack? Any ideas appreciated!
Regular 2d sonar and down imaging it would be fine, but with my new 75sv with side imaging the hull would impair its functionality like this. I'll have to either DIY a solution that lets me raise and lower the ducer a few inches or buy a rail mounted transducer arm like the Yak Attack Switch Blade.
Hey boss man which way is the kayak facing as well as which way do I point the transducer square side to the front of the kayak or the point of the transducer to the front of the kayak
Only if you make the scupper air tight. The way I did it with the small piece of PVC, there's plenty of space for air to move around it. So if you were to, for example, make a piece out of a plastic cutting board or piece of wood, you'd have to make sure to drill a vent hole to allow to air to pass through in order to prevent the air pocket from forming.
Good idea, but did you run into any problems with the scupper draining properly where the transducer pushed up in the hole on the bottom (clogging it)?
A standard transducer that just has down imaging and 2d sonar will work just fine. If you are using any kind of side imaging this method will not work very well. The hull of the kayak will impede the sonar beams for side imaging.
The bottom side of the scuppers are below the waterline of the Kayak, so they will most definitely be submerged. You just have to make sure that whether you do it like I did in the video, or have your own creative way to do it that you do not make an airtight seal at the top of the scupper. Doing so will create an air pocket around where the transducer sits.
@@jeffdicks I only care about the traditional view. When I turn the unit on and switch it to traditional, I get a view of the bottom, a temperature, and a depth, for example, 27ft. Then it just stays the same, even if I'm 10ft from shore and can touch bottom with my paddle. Is the transducer bad maybe?
Hmm... that is strange... make sure the cable is seated correctly in the back of the unit and that none of the pins are bent or otherwise damaged. (Check for possible corrosion too) Is it possible that your battery is too low on charge? I know weird stuff happens to fish finders when they don't get enough voltage. You can set the head unit to display the current battery voltage, if it's at or below 12v charge the battery and try again. If you have tried that, try and use a different battery and see if it still reads improperly. It may be a silly thing to state, but you are using a 12v battery, right? If you are using a 24v, like a drill battery or some other kind of higher voltage lithium battery that would cause problems too. If none of those things work to fix the problem, you probably had a bad transducer. If it's a new unit, I would bring it back to where ever you bought it and exchange it or contact Garmin. They offer a 1 year warranty on defective parts, with exceptions of course. If you bought it used, you might just have to buy a new transducer.
When I made this video I was still using my striker4 in the ice fishing bag that held the battery and I just plopped it on the top hatch. I've since upgraded and got a Yak Attack fish finder mount for the track. I keep the battery in the same area there as the transducer scupper. I just used some stainless steel screws and drilled in some velcro tape to that front wall and use that to keep the battery from sliding around. I'll take a picture later tonight when I'm home from work and make a community post so you can see exactly what im talking about.
I got inspired by this video and changed the top piece. Put a much more video together but you can see the results. I also have ordered what will be the V2. Let me know your thoughts! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-K9D_wBJL7rw.html
I just had a watch through your video and thats certainly a cleaner way to do it! I wasn't too concerned about making it clean with mine though, just needed it to work! It was hidden underneath that front hatch anyways :P
