Here is a cut I used to keep the bar from pinching and breaking pieces free but not having them move so the log stays up off the ground for the next cut
Daniel, You may not know it, but you saved my life. I was going to go about bucking all the wrong ways and would have probole had the log fall on my leg, or on top of me... after seeing your video, I used your approach and it was very safe and more methodical. You are doing a great service by instructing us! Thank you very much for taking the time to care about others... very appreciative !
thankyou so much for this--I have 3 very large trees on the ground with similar issues and was unsure how to proceed ---its now going smooth and safe,thanx again
I love this channel, no lycra, no rock climbing devices, no drones and music to sex up the shot. Just really informative hardworking tree info that is invaluable to those of us who do this job day in and day out.. This is a treeworkers channel.
Very cool tip! I’m an amateur chainsaw user and I am constantly binding the chain when cutting downed trees. I had no idea on how to cut logs like this without binding the chain. This will be very helpful!
I always need two saws. One to make the cuts; The other, to cut my pinched saw free. Thank you for this video. I'll be trying it next week on a 30" pin oak the hurricane knocked over.
Lmao, I know what you mean. We bought a piece of property in the winter with a lot of ash trees, and we didn't know the beetles had been through, so before spring we bought a really cheap chainsaw cause we are property owners, we needed one. Once we realized the damage, we got a stihl 20". But I get it pinched all the time, I use the cheap saw to cut it out. After these videos I don't think that will be much of a problem anymore
Great information and video for those of us that get their saw pinched, I also just purchased another saw to cut my first saw free, if I had seen your video and couple of weeks ago I would have tried your technique before buying the saw. Thanks very much for sharing your knowledge and experience
I like the justification for having a second saw! A cheaper alternative is to buy another bar and chain. Swap them out and bail yourself out! Don’t ask me how I know 😂.
Yep, beautiful. Green sawers caution, Mr. Murphy makes it look easy. Caution with kick back and the log coming down on your lower leg. Yrs and yrs of experience at work there, making it look easy. Beautiful work, beautiful logs, I Love it. Thankyou Mr.Murphy. Safe and Sound work , Harmony. .
Because I do not have the experience of these plunge cuts, I like to start at the top, small branches, and work my way towards the big stuff removing the complications and simplifing as I work towards the trunk, removing the funny pressures. Thanks to Mr.Murphy to explain this technique, I will have to use it more when appropriate. Though it's important for us to stay in our comfort /experience zone as long as we get the job done in a safe manner is what counts. Serious Oak! Thanks
This is also useful for keeping your cuts lined up when a log is on the ground. Watch for the color change when you reach the bark and you will stay out of the dirt. Extra-Good Demo!
I used this technique to clear some good sized (20-25" diameter) trees that had come down across a 4x4 road in the back country. Only had a Home Depot 20" rental saw, so not very powerful and could not afford to get it stuck. No equipment to move the pieces, so had to make the cuts pretty close to each other so I could roll the pieced off the road by hand. Saw got the job done though. I have limited experience so was a little concerned about the plunge cuts, but shouldn't have been. They went smooth and fast. As in this video I ended up with 4 cuts, with the tree remaining off the ground. To finish it off, I drove wedges into the crack of two cuts, and cut through the tab in the center from below. First of those two hung up under compression, but on the wedges not the blade. Second one dropped, and that released the first. With the tree now on the ground, went back and cut through the last two tabs from below without the blade ever touching the ground, which was the whole point. One tree was larger diameter than the bar length, so I started it as shown in this vid, crossed to other side and finished the back half depth cut from the other side, crossed back over, and finished top, front, plunge and bottom cuts. Not the most efficient I'm sure, but felt pretty conservative.
Great technique. But what if you don’t have a skid steer to finish the job? Also, I was surprised at how you start your saw. If standing, I’d grip the end handle between my knees, so the saw doesn’t swing about while pull starting.
Best of a few good techniques I’ve seen but ALL have this in common…. 1st cut compression, 2nd cut tension portion of tree/log. Key detail, perhaps obvious… "tree well off the ground" b/c supported at BOTH ends. If cutting a free cantilevered end, last cut would be on top.
Nice Kevlar jeans Dan ! Why many You Tubers doing "expert" show and tell don't use FULL PPE is not clear. Good job explaining tension/compression cuts however.
Chock some smaller wood under the log to keep it off the ground. Save yer chain . Learn what "Ream the cut" means. It'll save you a lot of screwing around.
Hi.. I'm Narta from Indonesia, I'm also a woodcutter but the tree in Indonesia is small, the tree I cut is the sengon tree. Are there sengon trees in your area? 🙏
good video, lot to learn , tel me new chain , type of chain , do you sharpen it, by hand , with electric grinder , big chips flying , nice. I have watch by tree times.
funny you should ask... I just bought two new stihls today and the mechanic said most important thing is to let every saw warm up.. I obviously was just running the saw before we took this video.... thanks for the reminder for everyone too!
This video is on the same kind of cut and he finishes going upward but as a rule the compression side is cut first and it might make a difference on a large log like that ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SDgYcdlpbQ4.html
They sent me those double-sided sweatshirts over a decade ago... I think I have two left and they're too cheap to send more, but I hope that advertising manager got promoted for all the millions of views they've gotten for the price of a few sweatshirts
Man, I would like to see those sections cut the rest of the way. So, to finish the cut, you would come up from the bottom with the top of the bar and the wood will slide by the bar without pinching?
yes, generally an undercut will neatly finish the cut. I cut slowly though as one time I was racing through a big log and when the bar got pinched to a dead stop, the engine was ripped apart.
Glad you asked the question, I was going to do the same. Right at this moment, I've got an enormous eucalyptus arched up off the ground out the back. I've followed the excellent tips in this video which worked a treat (except for one cut where I somehow managed to bind the bar up at the bottom of the cut somehow) and now I've got a lovely suspended arch of big heavy chunks of log floating in the sky and was thinking "now what?". I reckon I can probably tackle the rest of it now.
used the skid steer to stand it back up enough to get the grinding done with the RG-100 and used the skid steer to drop the chips off in the wild area.
Great advice, but how do you cut up a large 20"+ diameter tree that's completely on the ground without getting dirt into the chain? Any videos would be helpful (I can't find any).
Generally cut almsot all the way down thru, until you are close but sure not to touch the dirt, then roll the log. Sometimes I look for light at a little lift in the trunk and cut there to start with. You can also score a portion of the tree when standing and let that part of the trunk hit the ground. Then just match cuts. Or easiest of all is simply lift it with the loader ;)
@@murphy4trees Thanks for the tip Daniel. Unfortunately the tree has been down for several years and is almost embedded into the soft soil, there are no gaps and it's too heavy to roll. I think your loader idea will be the one I'll end up using.
@@sideskraft I find starting at one end (the thinnest) helps. The more wood you can remove, the easiest it becomes to deal with the rest as the forces reduce and a roll becomes more possible. Not a pro, but I’ve had a lot of practice extracting fallen wood from woodland using a basic chainsaw and no special equipment.
It’s nice that a log that big is on uneven ground so you can easily fit the chainsaw under the log and still clear the ground by several inches. How bout a video of a log that is flat on the ground it’s entire length.
@@murphy4trees I guess I should of been more specific. It has a 30+” diameter, it’s not totally round, and one person is not going to roll it even part way over. I believe I have learned how to use my surroundings (tools, come along, other trees, fence post, truck bumper,etc.) for leverage in some way if possible in my 50+yrs. of adult life. I’m not trying to stump you or say aha, your wrong. This is a real situation. And I’m “stumped” 😁
Good question. I've got the biggest baddest stump grinder (Rayco rg-100) you can get into a backyard, but even that wouldn;t be able to ride up on this rootball.. so We used the biggest baddest skid steer loader (Bobcat A300) you can get into a backyard to lift the nose enough to stand the stump up back into the hole enough to get the dirt and roots low enough to reach with the grinder. It was all pushing the limits of what was capable with the equipment.
I know this guy ,and he wears his leg protection UNDER his jeans....he also always drives with his wallet even if he's just driving to the neibors.....
