Fabulous! Why not consider the sensible and straightforward violin neck attachment, and dodge the ridiculous "foot" that bonds to the top and makes neck removal impossible without therm o-nuclear devices? Maybe bolt - on? adjustable?? Anything but that stupid foot.
Those who think using a bandsaw is a no-brainer should try some precision cuts. You need to understand saw dynamics to control it fully. That is what Ken is teaching us. Try resewing veneer from thin stock (like 2x 1,5mm veneer from 5 mm guitar sides blank). Training makes you better! Did I fail to cut veneer like that? Yes. Did I succeed frequently enough? Enough to use this technique as standard in my archtop (dome top ;) building. Thank you, Ken, that you, the Master, show us the importance of honing the basic skills. Thank you, that you teach us: “first - understand”. Regards!
My step-dad made some hotrod blade guides for his bandsaw; they were precision bearings that ran 90 degrees relative to the guide in the back and replaced the solid bar stock as on the saw you are using. Importantly, he adjusted the bearings TIGHT to the blade, no clearance at all. I guess he was trying for that elusive blade stabilization you mention. Is this approach worth pursuing?
Lots of ways to skin this cat, although I much prefer dead blocks to any scheme using ball bearings, as they tend to get dust involved between the two moving surfaces. The dead block, if adjusted nice and tight, squeegees off the dust and stays put.
Ken- have you tried 3/8 or 1/2” blades for that thickness of wood? I have tons of experience doing resaw work on cherry using 3/8 “. 3 tooth hook blades that my local supplier made for me from Lenox stock, and they worked spectacularly. You might give it a try if you need really good cuts right off from the saw. I don’t think you could get that tight of a radius, but your work doesn’t show that need. But because you have the worlds best spindle sander, doesn’t matter much, eh?
I doubt there is a bandsaw blade width or style that I haven't tried by now, from 1/16" to 3" wide, including all the tooth styles. I like the vari-tooth type, if you can find it, as it can discourage harmonic resonances in thick material. For longevity in straight sawing or resawing, you can try an (expensive!) brazed tooth blade, with tips of carbide, stellite, or other abrasion - resistant material, which are typically at least 3/4" wide. We'll get to resawing sometime, and it's it's own thing, as you suggest. I like 1/4" blades for most everything else in a guitar shop, and maybe I didn't say it strongly enough, but one should try to saw as Perfectly as is Possible! Bottom line is you should have a variety of blades for your saw, and strive for the very best accuracy in every important cut no matter what you're sawing. It can save huge amounts of dusty corrections on your sander!
@@kenparkerarchtoppery9440 I don’t get notifications for your response, but figured that you seem to be such a likable guy, I would go back to the original post and check. You are a premium individual, and a real pleasure to communicate with! Thanks for taking the time and effort to respond to my late at night/ far too early in the morning rants. It is so strange to find someone who speaks the language of precision shop work, I can’t help myself.. Again, iffn I were thirty years younger I would find you and pester until you allowed me to clean the shop and observe a true artist in real time action!
@@wrstew1272 Aw shucks, It's my pleasure, I really am getting a kick out of this whole process, and it's nice to be in touch with a few new souls after all this isolation and danger. Best luck with your work!
