These are rarely locked up, but this one was really stubborn. But I persevered and almost got “blisters on me fingers”, but now it’s as good as new. Awesome machine. (Video 164)
Thank you so much for this video. I was working on a different machine (Elna) I was about to give up because no other video seem to cover this issue. Then the voice said you might need to spend half hour or more so I kept at it. Super happy I did. The machine is old but new looking. I’m thinking the previous owner must have not used it much and probably never oiled it. Again thanks I have a smooth sewing machine now 😊
@@estherdoyle7561 you’re correct in your assessment of the machine’s usage being minimal. That’s the worst thing for these quality machines. Daily use accompanied with proper service intervals will insure their reliability and longevity. Quite often, I really get to earn my money when I get one of these in for service. But when I’m done, and deliver it back to the customer, they’re as happy as if they just got a brand new machine. Win/Win.😎👍
What a great video, Randy, many thanks! These Kenmores look so bland in their beige and white attire, but pack a punch. Wonderful to see how you got that working again and humming quietly. I used carburetor cleaner in an all metal machine and it was gummed up so badly. Loosened it fast. Carb cleaner has Acetone and Toluene so not for plastic or painted parts. Project Farm channel on RU-vid does a lot of serious reviews and in his test, Liquid Wrench was the best penetrating oil.
Thanks. I use carburetor cleaner on extremely rare occasions, because it’s highly volatile and not good for your health if you breathe a concentrated amount. It works when you need it to work for sure. A breathing filter might be a plus also. Liquid Wrench is an old standard that has been effective for as long as I can remember. Good stuff, I agree. 😎👍🏼
the deeper into this VSM hobby I get, the more I respect these Maruzen Kenmores. Brilliant design logic, superb craftsmanship, and all that at a price point that wouldn't break the bank entirely. WHen the writers write about "Singer losing market share to Japanese imports,: THESE are the machines that broke SInger's back. These are the machines that were taking Isaac SInger's lunch money and then eating his lunch right in front of him on the playground. I had none of them two months ago. Now I have 5-- wait, 6-- and will be on the lookout for more.
I rehabbed a 158.1792 last week that was locked up so tight, my first thought was that some joker had poured epoxy into it. Nope, just the original oil having turned to actual plastic. Heat, Deep creep, and a serious forearm workout later, and it takes just the nicest stitch. And ALL the electronics work, too, as well as looking like a linen mill from 1901 under the cover. But today I rehabbed a 158.1756, and it was obvious from the start that this had been a machine that was used and loved. Hardly a scratch on it, and worn in smooth as a river rock. Hands down the smoothest oscillating hook machine I've ever tried out. With a choice of 30-odd cams AND a straight stitch that will rival a Singer 201. All for just under $30, shipped to my door. Yeah. Kenmores. Go get you one.
Thank you for the video. I got a Kenmore 148 series last fall and it was fully locked up to the point that I was convinced it was due to a broken gear. Nothing moved. Patience is the key and small squirts of tri-flow penetrating oil. I thought I was going to have to strip it for parts. But it now works great and I really love it. Now I need to find it a good home. It came in a really nice cabinet ( wanted the cabinet) for $20.
Thanks for that valuable information on your experience with “ patience and penetrating oil”. That’s an effective combo. It’s easy to buy the oil, but you have to develop the patience. Well done.😎👍
I bought one of these for $11. Smooth, smooth, smooth! Sews great, and the machine wasnt a bit frozen or sluggish. The previous owner must have sewed daily, maybe commercially. The work surface leading edge is rough, missing paint. The housing adjacent to the handwheel is also missing paint, blackened bare metal. This machine probably has a thousand plus hours of run time on it The previous owner must have worn a lot of bracelets or a watch and sweated a lot!
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 The screw-less top removal on these 14300's had to of played a key role in the lube maintenance frequency of my machine. Makes oil adding a no brainer.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I oiled everything to unlock the Kenmore I was working on today. I couldn't get it to losen up until I turned it over on the side and heavily oiled the hook/shuttle area. That did the trick. THANK YOU!!!
My husband and I bought a 1939 colonial house and are renovating it. We've been in it for 3 years now. I got my sewing machine out the other day to do a simple hem and it locked up. Everything you said is true: dust, humidity, long-term storage. I'm following your instructions and hoping for the best. What I don't understand is why it turned so easily when I put thread on a bobbin. It was after I stitched about 8 inches that it locked up.
When you’re putting thread on the bobbin, the machine is disengaged from the motor and your only running the winding mechanism. When you engaged the machine to sew, all those dry bearings locked up most likely.
I'm not a repair guy, but suspect that some people use WD-40 or similar lubricant in a few cases. I've seen locks and other small mechanisms that wouldn't budge. The users had used WD-40 and was unaware that it oxidizes and turns to varnish. Good demo. Thanks for posting this video.
WD-40 is short for Water Displacement recipe version number 40. Made from fish oil. The best advise anyone could give to those if us that fiddle around with old sewing machines is: alway keep the WD-40 at least 100 ft away from your machine. So many other better chioces available for lubricant. Why not Tri-Flow?
I was just given a 158.161 from my neighbor for free, along with two boxes full of accessories and some attachments and cams. It was sitting in her garage for some years, I lifted it from its base and a rodent had hung out in there lol. Cleaned that out and debris was even under the top of the machine. I’ve oiled but the hand wheel will only turn about an inch, probably the same issue as yours had. Even the needle plate won’t move. Ordered a manual for it because I’ve only worked with singers
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thanks! Is this a more rare model? It seems hard to find parts and the manual for. I don’t see any for sale anywhere either lol.
@@thehumblepeach9018 it’s kind of a way older model and it weighs a ton. It’s solid as a tank, but its weight limited it to being sold mostly as a cabinet model and rarely as a portable. Since cabinets are a liability to most folks with space issues, they mostly got tossed when grandma went to assisted living. I imagine there are quite a few that are nestled cozily in their cabinets, folded up with a lamp on top of the crocheted doily, in hundreds of homes, awaiting discovery by the grandkids or the estate executor.
That’s how I got mine! I bought a 1962 house and it came with it. 158.14 and I cannot get the needle to move up and down. I oiled it up and messed with it today. Hoping to let it set and work on it again later today and tomorrow.
Been waiting for one of these to show up. This, and the free arm version (158-1941) are my go to machines. Except for straight stitch quality, I prefer them even to my Singer 500a. Their zigzag stitch is far better, wider than the 500a.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 You are something else! You have no idea how much you perk up my day. Even the junkiest piece of you know what is enjoyable. Thank you, sir.
I purchased a Kenmore 116.531 it was built in 1955-1556 the hand wheel won't budge and the bobbing is different than I have see its up not under the needle it's like on the size with like magnetic and metal and does no have foot pedal it has a knee press to operate.......I hoping to get it up and rolling
Go to : Victoriansweatshop.com and see what info is there concerning your machine. This guy has a thorough article on it. It looks to be quite rare and probably collectible as well. Good find for sure.
First, THANK YOU for this video!!!! I thought iwas going to have to take it to a repair shop, but mine unlocked fairly quickly. I have a model #158.18023 that has a spot for cams. How do I get the top off to lubricate the top areas? This was my Daddy's machine. He made dresses for my mom and Halloween & Ballet outfits for me.
If you don’t see two screws on top, one at each end, it just pops off. Open the access door on the left side and lift up on the top cover. It should just come right off.
Hi Randy! I’ve been inspired by your videos and am newly subscribed. I am tackling a Kenmore 148.14220 which looks similar to this 158. It has two issues: the clutch does not budge and am puzzled as to where to apply penetrating oil (or maybe it needs a different approach?). I am struggling with the upper thread tension unit which looks like the one on the 158. It might be missing a part - is there a diagram for these? Thanks for your time - if I could, I would bring my machine to you, but I’m in Ottawa, Canada. Thanks for doing these videos.
I made a video on the clutch disassembly previously, if you can find it. Usually I end up placing a cloth around the release knob so it doesn’t get scratched, then I use channel locks to release the knob. If you’re thinking that a part is missing from the tension assembly, I’m guessing that it’s been taken apart. If it’s been disassembled, you’ll be better off ordering a new one from sewingpartsonline.com or maybe getting a good used one from Etsy, etc. If it hasn’t been taken apart and it turns without jiggling around, it’s probably ok. Just put the tension on 4 and be sure to thread it with the lifter lever raised. That spreads the tension discs apart. If they don’t spread apart, it may be that the tension assembly needs to be repositioned deeper into its place in the frame, or there’s something between the discs that needs cleaned out. Sometimes old oil or oxidation will be present between the tension discs. Just slip a thin piece of cloth between them and clean it out. Good luck.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you so much for your helpful reply. I’ve had some success with the tension assembly - it certainly was taken apart previously. Cleaning and Re-assembling it helped - there seemed to be extra (!!) washers! The clutch control on this particular machine is plastic which I am afraid to break - so I will just leave it alone and be happy that everything else is working great. Thanks again 🙂❄️
Thank you Randy, I recently picked up from a recommendation off your other video a white jeans machine 1077. Thing looks mint, even has the suitcase. Problem is intermittent turning if the handwheel and barely the top drive shaft moves. I have used penetrating oil , oiled the pulleys and getting better, wheel moves freely but no movement on needle. I realize the top drive shaft gets stuck at some points any information is appreciated!
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 wow thank you so much for even replying, much appreciated! I will try looking into how to reposition the clutch disc, I've taken apart the handwheel from watching your other video several times and still nothing. The teeth in the gears and belt look fine too! I'm wondering if there is a way to completely take off the wheel looks like either the belt or something else only allows it out only so far. Thank you again Randy
@@itsleo9096 if you loosen the motor bracket, you can take the tension off of the belt. Tap the inner side of the hand wheel with the handle of a screwdriver to loosen it and remove it. Oil the main shaft/hand wheel axle and reassemble. The clutch disc will assemble four ways. One way works, three do not.
Hi, Randy! So glad I found your video. Working on unfreezing a Kenmore 158.13413. When I first got it the the handwheel wouldn't turn at all. VERY dirty machine. Cleaned what was visible and used Tri-Flow lubricant in all moving areas where oil goes. My husband loaned me some Liquid Wrench so flooded the bobbin area as you did. You go on to say you put the oil in all those various places. Are you still talking about the penetrating oil or regular sewing machine oil? My husband also commented that I should take the belt off so I'm not turning the motor all the time. Do you say so, too? Thank you so much in advance for your answers. I'll be watching the rest of your videos, too!
Hubby is right about the belt. Take it off and run the motor by itself until it reaches its peak rpm. It will recondition the armature and get rid of whatever oil has seeped into the brushes. Liquid wrench will get it limbered up, then you can add sewing machine oil to anything that slides, pivots, or rotates. A drop of oil at each end bearing on the motor is all it will need on an annual basis. 😎
I have a 158.17850 Sears that the feed dogs wont go down very much. At least not below the plate. material stays in one spot. Have any suggestions? Thanks!
Yes. They need to be oiled and manipulated like I explain in my video on the subject. It’s a common circumstance when the machine hasn’t been used for an extended period.
I have a 158.14101 that was pretty locked up but thanks to your videos she's working great now. Except for one thing. The reverse lever was broken before I started working on her. I bought a new lever but it won't go on like it looks like it should. My assumption is the workings are still locked up. I'm unsure what to do next. I can’t tell what the lever is supposed to move. Can you help?
If the lever broke, the previous user lacked the patience and technique to get it going without breaking it. Make sure the machine is set for straight stitching with no stretch stitch or buttonhole. Put the stitch length on its longest setting and attach the reverse lever. Be sure to generously apply penetrating oil to the reverse mechanism. Move the stitch length from long to short repeatedly and loosen up the mechanism. Don’t force the reverse lever to move until it will yield without breaking. Try it at short lengths, then work your way up to longer lengths. Patience. Patience. Patience. Work it. Work it. Work it. Repeat repeatedly.
Hi Randy - I am searching high and low for a video on how to deal with a 158-1703. Everything seems to be working except the reverse button doesn't fully engage the feed dogs into reverse (they just kind of go up and down, so partially engaged). So far I have tried Tri-Flow everywhere. I also took the side off and tried to add heat and oil to the mechanisms close to the reverse button/toggle. The button worked better, but no real changes to the feed dogs. Do you have any ideas I could try? Could the spring I see be stretched out?
I made a video on that issue. Penetrating oil on the feeder mechanism under the needle plate area is where you will concentrate your efforts. P. S. NEVER PUT HEAT ON ANY SEWING MACHINE PART. Patience and penetrating oil will solve almost 99.9999% of every sewing machine issue. 😎
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thanks! I'll search for that video. I suspect that the heat did little to nothing, as it was a hair dryer and two, it was a difficult angle and I gave up. Looks like that was a good thing! Oddly though, the reverse button/toggle will sometimes catch, and sometimes not catch. After so much oil at the bottom, I wondered if it was in the button area. I will keep trying!
I never ever use WD40 on my VSM because everyone says it can cause problems. Can you explain the rationale for other penetrating oils being ok? Aren’t they the same essentially? Thanks Randy. Learn so much from your videos!,
There’s a whole lot of opinions out there, and that’s all they amount to. My experience has been to use what you’ve had success with. If all I had was WD-40, I guess I’d try using it to see how it worked for me. There are folks that swear by it, because they’ve had good results with it. So be it. I’ve used several different types of penetrating oil brands and I couldn’t tell you which one I liked best. They all worked. Watch my video about the Kenmore service center tech who wrote the note condemning Singer needles. Laughable. Total junk opinions are out there for sure. My biggest concern is being sure that my shop is properly ventilated so I don’t get a chemically induced buzz, from whatever is being sprayed. My favorite “everyone says“ is being concerned with using compressed air on your machine. I’ve done videos on that too. The idea I guess, is to say something that makes you seem smarter than everyone else, because you’re the guy who has the screwdriver set (and the sign out front) that your grandfather bought when he started the business 30 years ago. The place is his now and he’s been doing this for a couple years and he “knows stuff”. 😎👍🏼
Some wiser person than me a while ago pointed out that plain WD40 was the ...40th?... iteration of "Water Displacing" - solvent - product. I agree it's good as a solvent to free up greasy hardware. But if we read the regular WD40 can, it doesn't really claim to be a penetrating lubricant. I've also noticed lately the brand offers a separate lubricant product. For consideration or feedback for our education...?
I can save your wrists! You can find a short M14-1.25 thread auto oil pan plug that fits the drive shaft. Cut off any magnet tip. Take off the clutch knob. Use a couple big washers and tighten the plug to the outside edge of the shaft. Now you can turn it with a wrench or cordless drill!! Grab the washers with a wrench to get the plug off. Turn it very slowly at first with constant oiling.
That’s a very helpful suggestion. I do a version of that myself when there’s oxidation involved. That’s when it’s really stubborn. You just have to be careful and try not to spin it too fast, and lock up a dry bearing and score it internally. I like to have the “feel” for whether or not it’s loosening and getting easier as I work it manually. If it’s your machine, you have the option of trashing a bearing and totally locking up the machine for good. My goal is to get my customers machine serviced properly without doing any harm. Kind of a different twist to the Hippocratic oath. Your machine-your call.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 LOL it was either possibly seize the bearing...or possibly seize my wrist!!! I just turned it slow with a wrench at first, keep oiling like you said, then move up to a slow drill speed, etc. It worked great, purrs like a kitten now. I would have put more details like that but RU-vid kept blocking my reply! Thanks for the video!
@@davez4177 sounds like you figured out how to do it correctly. The proof is in the results. Good job. A little patience and a little oil go a long way. 👍🏼😎
I was gifted a 158.17570 machine. I am able to turn the hand wheel but when I tried to use the foot pedal, the belt from the motor didn't turn. The motor was turning but the belt was not. Is the part inside where both belts are on supposed to spin? Thanks for any help!!!
Yes. The idler pulley will need a drop or two of oil at each end of the pulley axle. Disengage the hand wheel clutch after you oil it and let it spin to circulate the oil. I have a video or two that addresses that issue. No. Tools. Needed. 😎
Hey Randy (and others) - I have a similar 8 stitch that is stubbornly stiff. Still trying the penetrating oil (PB Blast) and wrist killing. What about the little sealed box under the bobbin shaft with the black plate with spring/gasket. When I opened that up, there was grease all shifted to one side. The worm gears inside there seemed pretty dry, not sure what the grease is actually doing, sort of just sitting in the bottom "pan". Is that grease old oil, or is it grease? Should there be grease on those worm gears? Thanks!
If there’s grease in there you’re fine. Oil the shaft that goes from the hook area down to that gear box. Place your oil spout under the shuttle driver and put the penetrating oil on that part. Lay the machine on its back and let the oil sink in. Any place that has close tolerance is suspect and needs lubrication. Hang in there, once you get oil on the dry area, it will take off and run like new.
@@davez4177 there’s an adjustment on that belt at the motor bracket. You don’t need to replace the belt unless it’s breaking apart. Be sure to oil the pulley on that idler assembly. If the idler assembly pulley isn’t spinning freely, your lower belt will slip and the hand wheel will be hard to turn. Sounds familiar perhaps ?
Thanks for your video! I've always heard you can't turn the wheel away from you, only forward, toward you or it ruins the timing? I'm an owner of two vintage Kenmore tanks and have blundered one with WD40, not knowing it was the wrong stuff. I'll be getting penetrating oil and giving my machines a good oiling and cleaning. I found one at a yard sale for $5.00 and one at a thrift store for $15. I have sewn tiny leather cowboy chaps for dolls and leather baby moccasins. I'd love a followup on the turning of the wheel, as I don't want to mess up my timing and machine. Thanks again.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I have heard never to turn the knob away from you (clockwise), but only counterclockwise, but your video shows this. Will this not damage the timing on this machine?
Hi Randy, great video. I just got a kenmore 158.17501 and the hand wheel will move nicely for about 6 turns and then it gets stuck. I started to look at the cam area and I noticed it gets stuck when the cam its a certain point in its rotation. I have oiled and even greased the cam gears. It has not helped. Im not sure what to do. Any suggestions? Thank you!!!
Make sure that your stitch is set on straight stitch and not zigzagging or in a pattern. It can only be a lack of lubrication, providing that no one has attacked it with screwdrivers or wrenches. Be patient. Penetrating oil and patience will prevail. 😎
I just picked up a 158.19312 and a 158.1781 They are both slightly sticky but not gummed up. Should I use penetrating oil like you did, or just use regular sewing machine oil for everything that moves? On your video, after you use the penetrating oil liberally, do you wait for awhile then re-oil with regular sewing machine oil? I thought penetrating oil evaporates over time.
I have a Kenmore Ultra Stitch 8, model 158134381 with a Locked up wheel. It has been in a humid basement, unused, for years. I can move the clutch wheel freely, and everything inside seems to move, but the major wheel will only budge about an eighth of an inch in either direction. I am using the penetrating oil all over the place, but is there anything more I should do? Thanks for the video! I was about to give the machine away.
Hey Randy, I'm curious if any of the Kenmore 158 series can handle heavier canvas like 15-18oz? Love your videos, feel like I'm learning quite a bit and want to pick up a vintage machine as a result.
They’re not made for that. They are robust household machines that will last forever sewing those things that they are designed to sew. Get an upholstery machine with a walking foot. I recommend a SAILRITE at a minimum, and a Consew 206RB (Seiko) as the perfect machine.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thanks Randy, I did not think it would be the case, but wanted to ask since I've sewn a few recent projects with material that heavy. What would you expect the upper limit to be with them; could they manage 10oz canvas?
@@kylegraywolf if you’re making a shirt, blouse, pajamas, a pillow case, or a quilt, out of canvas, you’re probably going to be fine. (Sarcasm) It’s a household machine. You can try to use it for industrial applications, but you probably won’t care for the results. It will sew some pretty heavy stuff, but you’re limited by the thread. It can use all purpose/dual duty sized garment thread successfully. ANY OVERSIZED THREAD WILL NOT WORK ON A HOUSEHOLD MACHINE. I have numerous videos that address this issue. I don’t know if you already have this machine, or that you’re contemplating buying it to sew on heavy projects. Everyone always buys the wrong machine, with their fingers crossed, hoping that a household machine can be an industrial machine. Nope. Good luck.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thanks Randy. I don't. I have a newer domestic machine that I have definitely used beyond its capability, and have access to a Sailrite from time to time. I don't sew as much as I would like, so can't justify picking up an industrial. I was hoping to find something that I can sew regular/domestic with, as well as some lighter canvas. I have not had a lot of luck finding something that would fit in the past, and I thought I would ask here. Part of my issue I suspect has been searching for the wrong terms, etc. Thanks again
Thanks for the video. I have a 158.1340, have unseized everything but the double pully. How does one remove the back cover to get to it? (or to change belts, for that matter). It looks like the stitch length knob must come off, but how?
I access the idler pulley from the top. With an extended spout oiler, and a flashlight, place a drop of oil on the end of the pulley axle and let the oil flow along the axle as it turns. Don’t over oil this area as centrifugal action will sling it everywhere. If the side cover needs to be removed, check for a set screw on the knobs, that may be accessible from underneath or from the top. Sometimes the knob will need to be turned to find the set screw. A long, narrow blade, standard screwdriver may be necessary.
Thanks Randy. I did that last night (with several drops of oil... probably too much...) and let it soak in overnight. It spun for a few secs this morning and then seized again. That's why I'm thinking the back has to come off. Now I see the knob set screws (two) inside. Long, narrow blade, indeed. Do you oil the motor bearings on these? I don't see lube holes near the bearings on the motor case ends.
@@JohnBau sometimes the motor has a red dot on the ends of the armature to signal an oiling location. There’s oftentimes a felt reservoir at that oil point. A drop or two will suffice. If not, I’ll add a drop where the shaft comes out of the motor housing. Be patient with the oiling procedure on the idler pulley shaft. Release your hand wheel clutch and tilt the machine on its hand wheel side to allow the oil to flow down completely. Run the motor at low speed. If it’s so bereft of oil that it squeals and locks up, you might want to put a penetrating oil application at the oiling point. Use the red tube and give it a quick shot of penetrating oil.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thanks for the pointers. I put a drop of oil on the shaft end of the motor last night but there's nothing to indicate an oiling point anywhere on it. "Lifetime lubed"... not! I haven't tried penetrating oil on the pully shaft yet so will do that next. I see later 158 models moved the stitch length knob to the front... no doubt there were many complaints about the service nightmare having it on the right end had created!
If you’re asking how to remove the hand wheel, it’s just a matter of taking the set screw from the clutch release knob, unscrewing it, loosen the belts at the motor adjustment underneath, and pulling the hand wheel off. There’s a video already made addressing this procedure. Check for the three part servicing videos and it will explain it for you. View the video on reassembling the hand wheel release clutch, to get that back together properly. It may not be necessary to completely remove the hand wheel, just to oil the shaft that it rotates on. If you can move it to the right in the shaft and add a couple drops of oil then spin it, that oil will migrate down the shaft and free it up. Good luck 🍀😎👍🏼
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thanks so much I found it. I recently got a 158 for $45 and all it needed was some oil. It's now sewing through 7 layers of denim. I have two other newer machines that I couldn't dream, lol. I couldn't be happier. Thanks so much for your content!
Hi, I have a 158.14001 & Its not locked up but it is tight in the handwheel so I used the penetrating oil but its still pretty tight(also feed dog switch is stuck but I dont really use that) should I just keep repeating process .. I know u said it takes a while lol
Concentrate on the area behind the hook and bobbin case where the shuttle driver shaft goes into the gearbox. There’s close tolerances there and it requires penetrating oil for sure in that area.
Not a dumb question at all. Smart people ask questions. It’s called research. The top comes off by putting a wide blade screwdriver on the left side and gently prying it up and off. Open the side cover where the light is, to gain access to that area. You’ll see the gap underneath the top cover and the frame attachments. Lever it up and off. Easy peasy.👍😎
It’s a generic penetrating oil product. Go to any seller (Lowe’s, Home Depot, Auto Zone, O’Reilleys, Ace Hardware) and ask for penetrating oil. Read the ingredients on all the cans. I’m not sure that you’ll find much of a difference. Some smell better than others. It’s kind of like choosing between bottled water or ground black pepper. Personal preference will prevail. Just don’t huff it or drink it. It’s not for human consumption. That’s my disclaimer. I’m not a medical science professional, nor do I play one on RU-vid. Your mileage may vary. Please don’t sue me, etc, etc.
