Ever wondered what happens inside a Keurig Brewing System? Watch a fully functioning Keurig K155 Office Pro with the cover off! Plus a few tips on disassembly, troubleshooting and repair.
Brilliant. Descaled with distilled vinegar. Filled hot and cold tank with pure vinegar. Machine went stupid sensing the brew sizes while trying to rinse. Found your video and before I started unscrewing stuff I found that if I hard reset the machine, I could get it to fill once. I did that about 6 times getting it to brew a 10 ounce cup while I backfilled with water. Then the stupid went away. The pure vinegar wouldn’t let the sensors work. Wouldn’t have known that without you. Thanks a million times over!!!
Really appreciate you sharing this because it helped me determine that a stuck solenoid valve is probably the issue. You may already know this, but you can enter a maintenance mode by powering the unit on, then before it gets to the Heating/Ready screen, press and hold a finger on the touchscreen and press BREW 3 times. (Machines older than a few years require a press on each of the four corners from standby). Once in the maintenance menu, press BREW to cycle through options and stats. Then you’ll get to the screens that allow you to manually override and activate individual components such as the water inlet valve (for direct plumb), air compressor, cold water pump, vent valve/solenoid, etc.. (To other readers, common sense should be utilized when tinkering).
Wow. Great work. I decided to just buy another one I liked the k155 so much. Now, I have the encouragement to try and fix it since I'm back drinking coffee and you've shared all the important lessons..... thanks!
Thanks for the video as it provided great operational details! I disassembled my K150 (with plumbed attachment) and wanted to add a few notes as they pertained to my model. 1. I didn't have to remove all of the lower screws to remove the covers as 1 of the smaller screws holds ground wires and a 2nd holds and grounds an electrical component to the base plate. 2. Removing the covers was definitely tricky as they are mostly snap-in pieces and use very few screws hold them in place. Some of these snap-together parts are difficult to get to but I'm sure there's a service manual somewhere that details the proper removal sequence. I used a sharp knife blade to get in between or under some of the covers to either separate them or gently pry them apart. I'm now thinking that one of those thin metal cake frosting spreaders would've worked better. lol 3. At first glance, the single top & back cover looks like there's no screws holding it in place. They're there but were under 6 plastic caps on mine that looked like they were molded into the cover. They were difficult to pop-out due to the tight fit so I used a knife with a sharp point to cut a small divot in each cap by pressing the point into the center and rotating the blade. Once the small divot was formed, I used an angled pick, pressing it in to punch a hole which the pick then used to easily pop them out. With the screws removed, the cover was removed by prying the front cover upwards and away from the top cover a bit. This allows the molded-in ledges under the front cover to separate from the notches in the top cover's front edge. You then have to slide the cover backwards (not upwards), away from the front panel as there are plastic brackets under the cover's side that slide under pegs on the side covers. I'll try to take pictures showing this before I re-attach the screws as it should be easy to capture the sequence now that I got it disassembled. 4. When looking at the unit from the front, my air pump is on the right side of the unit whereas the model in your video appears to be further in and on the left side of the unit. In other words, the air pump on mine could be easily removed when the unit's right panel is removed. 5. My air pump would run for only a few seconds then turn off, either pushing out only a small amount of water or none at all. Removed and tested it by using a 12v wall power adapter that was used by another device to power the air pump. The air pump ran continuously and wouldn't shut-off after a few seconds proving the pump was working properly. Re-attaching it to it's hose and applying power again did push all of the water out of the heating tank so I knew the problem was elsewhere. Btw, the fact that it wouldn't push out enough water to get the heating tank's water level below the sensors, resulted in the next brew showing only the largest brew size in the display panel. Smart electronics! 6. I then removed the zip ties from the hoses on one solenoid and removed the hoses. (Note: Mark where each hose attaches) Blowing air into one end prevented it's exit at the other end which was a good result as the solenoids are "normally closed" and are opened if the system detects a problem, allowing water to return to the heating or reservoir tanks as you indicated. Did the same for the 2nd solenoid which DID allow air to exit at the other end. This let me know it was stuck open as you also indicated in your video, possibly from built-up mineral deposits. Will be ordering both solenoids just to ensure they open as well and will provide an update once they're installed.
Update: Acquired both solenoids locally and installed them last night. The wires are soldered on, so you'll need to use a soldering iron to remove them and solder them to the new solenoids. I have a soldering station but used a portable butane model which you can purchase at any hardware store. Pickup some soldering wire as well as new solenoids will most likely not have any on their terminals. The solenoids I purchased, were from a surplus store so they looked like they've been cut out of some other unit that uses them for delivering air. They were the exact same model so their terminals already had cut wires & solder on them which made it easy to soften and insert the wires into. I did think of just cutting off the wires, stripping them and attaching lugs with a crimping tool but that wouldn't have worked for me due to the existing solder that would've made it hard to slide the lugs onto the terminals. If you buy new solenoids and they don't have any solder on the terminals, you may be able to go this route if you don't want to deal with soldering. Reassembled the unit and gave it a test run. Very successful and it actually delivered more liquid when selecting the 10 ounce brew than previously. I had acquired my K150 used from a business that had closed so it probably had a good amount of use which may have caused one of my solenoids to get stuck open after I ran it for a few weeks. I was going to attach some disassembly photos here but there's no option for doing that. Will try to put them into a slideshow video and post them on youtube later this week. Once uploaded, I'll put a link to it here as the video coverage here is a great start to learning about the internal components.
Thanks so much for allowing me to troubleshoot my K155! For me the problem was the display stuck on "Preparing Please Wait". I used a turkey baster to blow through the air tubes at the top as you advised, to free the air solenoids. So far so good. This is my third K155 with direct plumb water kit over the course of 17 years. Current one is 16 months old, just out of warranty. I may have been able to have Keurig still honor the warranty. But it's Sat. and the fix only required 2 hours of downtime! Loved learning how the inner workings function. Thanks again. Not sure how "Buy me a coffee" works on RU-vid, but I would have done so.
Hey Dean, I'm very appreciative for your explanation on the workings of the Keurig units.... I've got mine apart and replaced the compressor thinking the limited flow I was getting was due to the compressor being bad. But plugging the overflow into the reservoir caused bubbles to come up thru the water inlet, so I'm pretty sure that one or both of the solenoids are the culprit. Will test and replace those now. My wife thinks I'm crazy for digging in like this, but being an engineer, I told her " inquiring minds want to know!!". Thanks again for your insight into how these things operate. LarryS
@@sakm.6573 I did replace one, but the problem persisted. Then I looked at the other and when I disconnected the tubing from it, some white chunks (calcuim?) were right near the tube ends. I think they were plugging/restricting water flow, causing the problem. The 2nd solenoid passed the 'blow-thru' test, so I reassembled and its been working fine since. Good luck with yours, LarryS
Fantastic video on the B155/K155 model. We just acquired one from another department in the company. It was giving them trouble but it worked fine for us for a few weeks. Now it drips and spits water while heating, and now it doesn't push water during the brew cycle but it does during the boiler fill cycle. So I know it needs new solenoid valves. I have done valve replacements on other consumer grade machines. Now I have a better comfort zone on getting into this machine to do a solenoid replacement. Good job on showing the boiler, air pump, water pump, solenoids and all the plumbing. Thanks!
Could you provide a link to your video, got the back and top off but feels like I'll break the side panels trying to pull them out? Wil pulling the bottom base off release the front and sides? Got an overheated lockout and can't see a fix for that here.
I have used your great video twice, once to dissemble to change the two bad capacitors, and today to replace the hot water solenoid valve that diverts water back to the reservoir and results in a smaller cup of coffee - thanks again. I bought a $10 valve off Amazon, which is working great but its inlet and outlet tubes are a little larger making it more difficult to install the smaller hose. - the old valve internal plastic had turned to mush.
Thanks for the advice and observations! The same machine that I used in this video is now running very slow. I suspect the filter you mentioned is the culprit. Thanks again!
Thank you Dean for the great depth video you gave with this model. I have a 150 model, but I am sure it is very similar. I have been looking for a fix, and you deftly guide me to the direction I need to try. It is one of the best take part and shows what is what and what to expect to demo. Great job.
Great video very informative. Only problem I had was too much camera bounce, should have used a tripod. Overall one of the best Keurig repair videos I have seen.
Thanks for the great information, I was always concerned that the internal water reservoir never fully emptied, meaning there was always old water in the coffee.
Great video Dean. These are no joke when it comes to screws. Jokingly I believe that’s the only reason they are so expensive is because of the cost of thousands of screws! Anyway, I watched because I have a smaller Keurig that has a water pump. Some days worse that others, but on the bad days it sounds like it’s going to fall out of the machine. I have a spare machine and may take this one out of service, try my luck, and see if I can silence this loud rattling water pump. Thanks again for the video.
Like you, I struggled with removing the back/top cover without doing a lot of cosmetic damage. Even trying to push it back was not helping much. I eventually succeeded using a set of the plastic release tools designed for removing inner panels of automobile doors.
Thank you, Shaq, for your kind comments. I can understand why you said what you said about the mineral sensor, given that there is obviously a floating sensor located (and trapped) in the bottom few inches of the reservoir. I mentioned "trapped" because the upper limit of the sensor is only a few inches from the bottom. This makes it impossible for the floating sensor to report that the tank is nearly 2/3rds full as seen in the LCD display near the beginning of the video. When the water level is above the maximum range of the floating sensor, the two metal sensor plates that run the entire height of the tank is how the display can report that the tank is full or 3/4 full, etc. The floating sensor is purely a safety device, ensuring that all heating/brewing functions remain disabled until water is added. The level sensor is way too undependable to serve as a critical safety device.
Not knowing all of the specifics, I can only recommend some ideas that might, collectively, help. If the machine is several years old and has been fed tap water with no vinegar treatments, then I recommend replacing both solenoid valves before doing anything else. Then drain the inside (heated) tank somehow. Place a quart of white vinegar in the outside reservoir and see if the inside tank fills with vinegar when attempting to brew. This will help descale the rest of the system. If the inside tank doesn't fill then there is likely a problem with the water pump or the control board. If the inside tank fills with vinegar but nothing comes out during brew, then the problem may be a defective air pump that needs to be disassembled and cleaned or replaced. Note that the level indicator on the display may provide incorrect or missing size options when using vinegar or if the sensor pins inside the inner tank are covered with hard water scales or a film of some kind. If the brew cycle begins working (for any size brew) run vinegar through the system several times. Then thoroughly flush the system (many times) with water. You may find that all of the size options will eventually once again be displayed. That's what happened to me. Almost forgot to mention... Make sure that all of the filters and one way flow devices (connected to the tubing) are functioning properly.
Good video. I wish I would have thought to search for this video beforehand. After watching the trouble shooting I done would have pointed to the compressor
I recently had issues with my smaller machine... I took it apart and disconnected the tube from the heater and positioned it over a bucket and spayed tiny bursts of my air compressor... after ten small bursts I was amazed how much orange tinted lime scale came out... it was like brand new once put back together again..
I had a Keurig K155 fail where it would ask for the water reservoir to be lifted and filled, when it was already full. When it did get past that point, pressing the “brew” button would trigger a unit reset. This was preceded by a growing problem with the LCD display having a vertically scrolling dark band while the brew process was underway. The problem was the two filter capacitors on the PCB beneath the left-hand side cover: 1000uf 25V and 1000uf 35V 85C no-name Chinese “Teapo” caps. I installed two 1000uf 35V 105C rated name brand (Panasonic) capacitors, and everything was perfectly fine.
Thanks! Really helpful to get a look inside, my $10 goodwil K155 (direct plumb) only needed a good solid descale this to round, but nice to be forearmed in the event of bigger issues!
Mine was $50 still in the box. No paperwork but the Great and Mighty Google got it up and running. Washed the reservoir three times with vinegar and no plastic smell. I never mind helping Goidwill.
Can i ask when you plug it in, what does it do? I plug mine in and it sits there clicking and the display will not turn on when me playing with the power switch. So now I'm more or less thinking maby some circuit board problems. The cilonoid that clicking would be the one closest to the power switch.
Hey guys, check the main controller pc board for fat/bulging capacitors (can-shaped components) where the top is bulging and not flat. If bulging, replace it/them.
I have a Keurig K150P. The "P" means that it came with the auto fill already installed. #1 - DO NOT buy the auto fill option. After a while it starts to grow slime that clogs the system - plus you are drinking it (slime). You can't take the tank off easily to clean it. Plus - out of sight, out of mind. #2 - Do get the removable one. I threw out the auto fill tank and got a removable one. It has a removable top so it's easy to inspect. I rigged mine with a direct water line with a hand valve so I could fill it without removing the tank - but the tank can be removed in seconds to clean it. #3 - My K150 got slower and slower. I took the thing apart (not recommended) and the inside looked really clean. HOWEVER, the filter where the unit draws water from the tank was clogged with slime. To clean it - remove the bottom metal plate. Take out ALL of the Philips head screws, remove the metal bottom (not the wiring), and you'll see the inlet plumbing. Easy to clean.
Dean, Thank you for this excellent tutorial. I've tried all the other fixes in hopes I won't have to totally disassemble my machine. From your troubleshooting I think I need to replace 1 or both solenoids. My machine is slow to brew so when I stuff a golf tee in one side of the air tube (the double tubing looking thing that points downward into the water tank) I get a much better flow, but bubbles are coming up from the bottom. Is this in fact a solenoid problem? I've had this coffee maker for about 5 years which I know is a good life for a Keurig. Your advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank You!!!
Linda Pepin, I agree that the problem is most likely due to a solenoid issue. The fact that plugging one of the overflow tubes causes better/good flow suggests that the air pump (which pushes the water out during the brew) is working like it should. I recommend replacing both solenoids while the machine is apart. Good luck!
Thanks, that’s exactly what I needed. I was given one of these last year and recently discovered it pulls 700 watts every minute for about 8 seconds. Over two hours before it shuts down is a lot of power for off grid. So I want to install a dry contact smart switch module to the momentary switch on the back and automat it so it turns off 5 minutes after you turn it on. I was wondering if it even had the room inside for this module I want to mod and put it. Now I know it does. I guess mine is coming apart now. Now the only question is can I find a 5 volt or 3.3 Volt rail on the main board that I can tap into. Thank again for this video.
Ever see one of those sci-fi/horror movies with a brain in a jar kept alive by bunch of tubes? That yellow reservoir gives a pretty cool looking visualization of the machine in action.
Same here. I finally got it apart and am checking the transformer for an OPEN condition. If that isn't it, I perhaps it is the switch. That seems to be the source of the clicks. UPDATE the clicking is from one of the two solenoids, Dean showed us in the video.
@@agilitydoberman Sadly no. Thanks for reminding me. I had to throw the entire thing into the trash. After going through the considerable effort to replace the solenoid, the clicking continued. Sometime in the electronics is cycling it. So, I replaced the unit. I came up with using a mini-ball float valve on a Cuisinart SS-10, along with a filter for it. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NDKDMKF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NDM7BCH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079YXTTKV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I will never buy Keurig again. But, the bright side is the Cuisinart is an upgrade in every way, for much less cost.
@@alanmonday9981 Thanks. This is my second one with the same problem as yours. I will try to use the first one for parts after I figure out how to take it apart. From others on this channel, I think your circuit board has bad parts. I will try to exchange out the circuit board and see if that fixes it. Otherwise, I like the Cuisinart solution.
Nice video but the one question I was hoping would get answered is how does the water get through the cup when there is no hole in the bottom of the Keurig cup? The Keurig cup is never wet on the outside so is it sucking the water out after it pushes it in?
Look at the bottom of a K-cup after brewing. You will see a small hole in the bottom of the cup. The hole is created when you hear/feel that little "pop" when closing the handle just before brewing.
Thanks for posting. My K155 is 3years old and after moving it off the counter to clean and plugging it back in Keurig says it’s “defective”. When plugged in the screen remains blank and there is a clicking noise being made.
The Older ones had two pumps, one a large piston pump, also the air pump on that one did not force the water from the heating tank. It's function was to push the remaining water from the K Cup, it will not drain out by gravity, yours uses the last bit of air do that function. They have incorporated many functions in the newer models. I miss the sound of the old piston pump ! (if it will not work with distilled or RO water (which we use in our camper) just put 4 or 5 grains, the smallest pinch you can, of salt, the water will conduct and all will be well. (and that's added to a gallon) not the machine tank.
Mine clicks but doesn't turn on. It feels like the switch is clicking. IAC, after watching your excellent video I decided to attempt taking it apart, AH HA!! I found the reason the back won't come off so easy. There are hidden screws. What looks like faint circles are actually rubber plugs. I used a 1/8" drill to cut a hole and then used the bit as leverage to pop the plugs.
Hello Dean, I have the same Keurig and i busted it open and changed two tiny capacitors to get it running properly again. Main issue im having is the mschine is brewing 2 ounces short on every cup option. Its very strange. I will click 10 ounces and it does 7.8 every time. Trying to teoubleshoot currently and im pretty lost. Waterflow is fine, it just is always 2 ounces short.
I have a K150. The water comes through ok, but when there is a Kcup in, it gives me very little. I have descaled, "paper-clipped", flushed the system, still nothing. Thoughts?
Hi having an issue with clicking Nd screen flashing when its makes the click but just clicks and doesn't turn on. Any ideas 💡? Please let me know Thanks for a response
Side Panel, Side Panel, Side Panel. On the K-Cup side. How does it come off? Is there a screw somewhere or do I have to release ALL the clips on the front edge and the back and just pull up? I'm thinking it's been a while but any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks for the video, great job!
Hi! Is there a solenoid that's normally closed, that vents the air out of the top of the heater tank? That clear section, before the air pump runs to blow the water down? I'm thinking maybe the one I have isn't open and the air can't escape, so a buildup of air is blowing the water out of the dispenser before it can hit the pins.
Me searching for this video for a long time and its been here over 3 years. What a great work. My K155 stopped working see if solenoid is the problem. Just says brewing and makes noise like it does but nothing. This is a 2nd machine and they work for about 3 years max and stop. Any advice will be taken. Thanks for video
I have a k150 it doesn’t pump water, everything works it heats the water but when i press BREW nothing happens and it doesn’t make any noise the screen shows that its pumping but nothing comes out, is this a pump problem? Thanks so muchfor your help.
Greetings, one question. I have a coffee maker like the one in the video that doesn't turn on completely. I don't know if it has a fuse or something similar that can be changed? thanks for your help and program
Yes, the first thing to check would be a fuse. That's the best I can do with a description of the problem that simply says, "Doesn't turn on completely". More information is needed for a more thorough reply. It would help if you would share exactly what "turns on" and what "doesn't turn on".
Hi! Thanks for the video. I'm working on one that only clicked. After changing capacitors, now it keeps running water through and out the dispenser. I was wondering what 'tells' this thing the heater tank is full. I have well water, and it's not very conductive. Maybe I'll try a few grains of salt, literally! Vinegar didn't help, though. Maybe that's not conductive, either. Thanks for the help!
You said, "it keeps running water through and out the dispenser". If this means that water flows from the cold water tank to the dispenser until the cold water tank is empty, then it sounds like maybe one of the solenoid valves may be stuck open (the one leading to the dispenser).
@@deanstucker Hi! I opened the Kerrigan again, easier now, and followed one of the tubes from the top of the water heater. It led to a solenoid. Then, I followed those wires, and found that plug wasn’t plugged in. It was under the harness.. I plugged it in, leaving the machine open, and now it works perfect!
Dean, great job and the best tear down on a K155 on the web. I picked up one used and the power button was wonky and got that fixed with some electrical cleaner. It was working great until I followed the manual and descaled with pure vinegar. Now when I brew a cup it dispenses the correct amount of water but fails to detect that it's completed pumping the air for serving. After 2 mins it seems to timeout and goes back to the ready-to-brew menu. This did not happed before I descaled. (sigh) You mentioned their was an air pressure sensor on a circuit board in your video... I'm wondering if that failed. Any wisdom is appreciated. Thanks, Ron
Hi Ron, I also experienced some "strange behavior" after descaling with pure vinegar. For example, some of the usually available serving size options were not visible on the display. I was quite puzzled by it. I wish I can say that I know what resolved the issue. All I can say is that it resolved itself after multiple cycles and "system reboots". Another thing that can confuse the coffee maker is distilled water. There is not enough minerals in distilled water for the prongs in the tank to detect the small amount of current flowing through the water in the heating tank. One possible cause of the problem you're experiencing (continues pumping air after proper brew) is that an air hose (between the compressor and the tank) could be pinched or kinked, causing enough "back pressure" to think that water is still flowing. Disassemble the K155 and see if you can find a pinch, kink or obstruction of some kind in the air hose.
@@deanstucker Dean, thank-you for the reply. I'm pretty sure the hose is not kinked since it work just fine until I descaled it. The interesting thing it the problem is intermittent, and I can tell when it's going to misbehave. When it works, you hear the normal "whoosh" for a 1-2 seconds after completes the brew. When it misbehaves, it makes a very short "whoosh" noise as it completes (0.25-0.5 secs)... and then continues to pump for a minute or two until it times out. I guess I'll keep cycling it and see if it recovers from the vinegar descaling event.
Mine isn’t brewing and it is only showing a 12 oz cup. I went into the menu and made sure 6 oz 8 oz 10 oz and 12 oz are highlighted but it is only showing 12 oz. But the main problem is no water is coming through. Please help
I have a K145 Office Pro that I drained and stored for a couple of years. When I pulled it back out to try to use, it won't pull water from the exterior tank at all. I checked the needles, float, inlet valve and check valve to no avail, any ideas before I chuck this. Its a pretty new lightly used machine and it's bothering me that I can't get it to work. Thanks for your video and any help you might be able to offer!
Hi Patty. Your description of situation is pretty limited. What does the display screen say? If it appears ready to brew then perhaps the inside tank is already full and doesn't need to draw any water from the external reservoir. Does your model have an option for a pressurized water line - and is that option for a water source is enabled, thus ignoring the water in the tank? Some models sense the water level. If the tank is filled with distilled water then the sensor that determines tank level percentage (NOT the float) may be telling the controller that there is NO water in the tank, despite the fact that the tank is full of distilled water. Drain the tank, fill it with regular tap water and give it another try. If the display remains blank when plugged in, then simply toss it in the trash or give it to someone who is willing to disassemble it and replace some parts (fuse, transformer, thermal switch, etc). Hope this helps.
Hey Dean. I have a 155 and am getting leaking out of the k cup holder while brewing. Coffee still brews but there are a few streams of water coming out of there as well. Have you run into this before? Thanks
I can think of a couple possibilities that might cause the issues you're describing. There needs to be a good watertight seal between the coffee cartridge and the machine. Check and see if there are some coffee grounds embedded in the abovementioned rubber seal. This may have been caused by prematurely opening the cartridge holder while the machine is actively brewing. Another less likely possibility is that the rubber hose attached to the top of the cartridge holder is leaking. Hope that helps.
Great video! We lost power the other day and when it came back on our B-150 spontaneously made a cup of coffee and the display read "System Overheated" Haven't been able to get it to do anything since. Any insights would be much appreciated - thanks!
Sounds like a defective thermal switch/detector - OR - the relay which activates the heating element is stuck in the "on" position. I recently had a RV furnace refuse to produce heat (even though all others functions - thermostat, fan, delay circuit, etc - continued to work fine) because the thermal limit switch became defective. A simple $13.00 fix.
Thanks for the video. It helped me fix a machine that someone threw in the dumpster at work a few years ago. Currently though, we had a power outage, and I think it took a surge. It humms, and clicks (the solenoids trying to engage/disengage), and the display is dead. Any ideas? I looked over the main board but didn't see any obvious burnt components.
Try looking at the main board again - with a focus on the pop can shaped components (electrolytic capacitors). If the top of one of these capacitors (sometimes laying on their side) is bulging, then the component needs to be replaced. It won't looked "burnt". Just bulging at the top. I've seen feedback from others that had the same "clicking" issue. Look for the value and the voltage written on the capacitor (ie: 15V and 1000uF) and order an equivalent component from Amazon (bag of 10 may be $7.00-ish) or a local electronics store.
I need technical assistance. I have the K150P model, today our electricity was off due to an ice storm. I hooked up my portable generator to my fuse box ( after switching the main off so I didn't backfeed power into the community) and managed to blunder. Long story short, I fed my K150P 220volts, didn't realize it and switched the coffee maker on and it fried something, no smoke or burning smell, just didn't power on. My question is, is the on/off switch on these units a thermal protector type, that will act as an inline fuse that will break the circuit in case of an electrical feed overload or do you think that the problem lies deeper within the circuitry? Better yet, is there a resettable circuit breaker hiding inside these units? Sure will appreciate some expert advice, thanks.
Hello Dan, I have a K150P that is leaking water from the bottom/underneath of the machine. not all the time but more often lately. would this be a stuck Solenoid?
Possibly. The leak may be from a variety of issues. The only way to know for sure is to carefully (but quickly) disassemble the unit immediately after it leaks and try to determine where it is leaking by looking for evidence of moisture. Or let it dry and then look for mineral deposits left by the leaking water over time. If that fails, consider disassembling the unit such that you can still see what's happening inside the unit during a brew cycle.
Thanks Dean. Very informative video. It helped me fix the K155 my office threw in the trash (because it was brewing slowly). Ultimately, after doing all the checks you recommended, mine only needed a good de-scaling. But while doing a thorough cleaning of all the parts before putting it all back together I somehow damaged the switch in the K-cup containing assembly - the one that tells the logic board that a K-cup has been installed and the head is properly closed. Would you happen to know the PN to order another one. (There are no markings on it.) Thanks Again Kevin
Sorry. I don't know the part number. The function is fairly basic so Keurig may use the same switch in multiple models. Ask your friends if they have a non-working Keurig you can have. Or check ebay. It appears a lot of people make a living tearing these things apart and sell the parts on eBay.
question - I know this is 4 years late, but how did you manage to get the screw covers off the back for those 6 screws? Mine seem to be really really stuck. My issue with my machine is that when I plug it in, the screen doesnt come on but I can hear the power buzzing, and a clicking sound every second like its trying to turn on...but I cant get those back 6 screws off for the life of me.
Yeah, 4 years is a long time. I no longer have the machine so I can't take a look at it to refresh my memory. As mentioned in the video, I also grew frustrated when disassembling the machine featured in the video. I actually took a reciprocating saw to it to cut the top off as I couldn't figure out how to remove the top/back in one piece. You may need to do the same if you get nowhere. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. If you haven't done so already, you might try searching RU-vid for a disassembly video of a similar Keurig machine.
Great Video! I have a K150P like the one in your video. It has direct water plumbed into it for office use. It brews fine but it won't refill the cold water reservoir after 2 or 3 full brews. Keurig said it could be the Internal check valve that is bad. Are they talking about the solenoids? Any advise would be so appreciated!
Just got one of these at a fundraising garage sale. Of course it pushed one cup out and then overheated. I think it’s plugged somewhere as I discovered it hasn’t ever been de-scaled. Looking at the inside and what you mentioned, it may be worth tearing apart. Have you ever been able to get to the heating element?
Have you seen the "system overheated" message, and if so, is there any way to clear that? I've tested the thermistor and the thermal fuse and thermal switch on the water heater and all seem fine. I've gotten it into "test mode" by holding the screen when plugging it in, then after the menu pops up I can hit "home" and then hold it again and it goes to the test. It can get as far as the heater test, at which point it successfully turns on the heater for 2 seconds. Then when I hit the flashing Brew button it drops back to the "system overheated" message. I don't know if there's another component that has gone bad or if it's simply something stuck in the computer's memory.
Eric, I have same problem. Did you get thermistor thermal switch and thermal fuse from the bottom or did you disassemble the top and sides? Do you have a schematic?
Hello Eric, did you ever find out how to clear the overheating lockout on the LCD screen, as I can't even get the test mode by touching the screen on startup? Thanks
today I turned it on and says fill with water, while it is filled. it does not proceed to ask what size cup do you want? is it possible the water level sensor is not working?
Near the bottom of the removable water reservoir is a small disk shaped object that should move freely if the Reservoir is empty and turned upside down. If it is somehow stuck in down position then it could trigger an "empty Reservoir" signal to the computer.
Dean , During a descaling operation my K150P ( I believe a latter version identical to B150 except direct plumbed) went into system overheated mode and does not reset. Do you have the schematic to see if there is a thermistor the needs to be replaced.
So this is my second time to this video as I fixed a slow brew about 6 months ago. Now the machine won't even power up to see the menu screen. Blank / black screen when plugged in and power button is switched on. There is no noises anything. I've tried holding the screen, pressing the Brew button 3 times, etc.. Nothing. Is there a set of fuses or power supply that I can check or replace before scrapping the whole machine. Love this thing. Thank you! -Gene
If you have a voltmeter, check the output of the transformer. I've seen the transformer go bad on a Keurig. Any generic transformer with near-same voltage and current (Amp) capacity should work fine. Look on the original transformer before discarding it. And yes, check for anything that even remotely looks like a fuse. It should read the same voltage on both ends of the fuse.
Hello I have keurig k cup k40/k45 Elite Brewer and it saterted to leak out water any idea what to do or where do they sell keurig peaces separately? Thank you!
Nice work, Dean. Very impressive. I hope you can answer my question about my K155, less than two years old. When I plug it in, all it does is click, click, click, and the touch screen does not light up. I was told to plug it in another outlet, but no luck. Any suggestions with just that limited info that you can offer? TIA
Rosanne, I recently received feedback from another person that may be the answer to your problem. Look on the main controller board for any large capacitors that have bulging tops. The top of these capacitors perhaps will be shiny aluminum. (Perhaps with a marking that says 1000 uf"). The top of these capacitors should be flat, like the top of a pop can. If the top of the capacitor is bulging, then the capacitor is bad and it should be replaced.
Hello Dean, Thank you for this tutorial. I have the exact same model and I have a problem with it. When the coffee stop brewing, the "brewing..." message still on the screen for 30 seconds (usually, it is 3-4 seconds) and when it's finished, I can onlly brew 10 oz. No other options on the screen. I have to unplug it to reset it. Do you think it's a solenoid and/or air pump issue or it's more of an electronic problem ?
I've seen limited size options displayed on my screen too. Had to unplug the machine to get it to think normally like you did. The problem went away after replacing both solenoids and fixing the air pump. Apparently unexpected signals from the sensors, due to malfunctioning solenoids, can cause unexpected results in the display.
So, I left my K155 unplugged while we were away on vacation for a couple weeks. When I got back and plugged it in again, it just makes a clicking sound that seems to be coming from the side, on the corner near where the power switch is on the back. The clicking noise is coming from where the solenoids appear to be located in your video. Also, the digital display screen does not come on, but if you look carefully you can see it flash VERY quickly. So, for seemingly no reason now I am left with a K155 that will not power on but just makes the clicking noise when plugged in. Any ideas for what is causing the problem?
My guess is a failing transformer. If you have a voltmeter, try measuring the voltage going out of the transformer to the circuit board. It should be something like 15 volts or more. CAUTION: remember that this appliance utilizes Household high voltage. Risk of high voltage shock is always present when testing a plugged in appliance.
So I fixed my machine. The problem was two capacitors on the main logic board had gone bad. They are the two largest caps labelled 1000 uF. If they are even slightly bulging on the top then they are bad. After replacing them the clicking stopped and machine works normally again. Hardest part was taking the machine apart... What a pain .
@@matt.604 Thanks, Matt, for sharing the solution! I'll be sure to tell others to look for "Fat Capacitors" when they complain of similar symptoms. I should have thought of that. I repaired a nice 55in Flat screen TV by replacing the "Fat Capacitors" on the power board for the TV's backlight.
Any one know why the K155 just leaks water. It seems to come from the bottom. I have the plumbed water kit installed. This has been working for years and it just started doing it. Nothing else wrong.
By kuerig was working find. I wanted to clean it the vinegar went for couple of cycles and now it wont fill the cup with vinegar and just stop.. i hear noise but know water leaving the reservoir
I bought a kurig when they damn near first came out . Like 200 dollars I still have it . Well actually Keurig replaced it once for free. Its a platinum edition. It's been good but I'm over them . When it dies going back to reg pot. The single serve things are a waste and I just use the strainer type cups so I can use bulk coffee. I found I'd rather have a cup of hot coffee waiting in a pot that ha e to stand their and wait for another to brew.
I get these keurigs From the thrift. They ARE a bit@# to take apart! They have many useful parts, I am learning about the boiler and use with Arduino/AVR.
I have the K150, it pulls water in heats it up but won’t go into brew mode, just stays in the heating phase. When I drain the lines there is plenty of hot water. Any thoughts? What is the part number on the solenoids?
Hi Joseph. In your comment you say that it won't brew and stays in "heating phase". Normal operation of any Keurig will delay brewing until the water is hot enough. If the K150 has an indicator that clearly says the machine is constantly in heating mode, then the computer on the machine will think the water is not yet hot enough to brew. The culprit in this case may be a defective temperature sensor that thinks the water is never hot enough. The solenoids controlling water flow may not be the problem.
@@bhamjoe I no longer have access to that machine but, if you go to 6:43 in my video and look at the far right edge of the screen, you can briefly see what I believe is the temperature sensor pressed against the metal tank. I get my parts from ebay. I looked for a temperature sensor but was unable to find one by itself - but you can buy an entire tank with a temperature sensor (or switch) attached to it (for about $19.00). See www.ebay.com/itm/224690190400?hash=item3450943840:g:OkwAAOSwkzdhjt1b Note: This could be either a temperature sensor (measuring degrees for when to begin brewing) or perhaps it may be a simple thermal safety switch which would shut the system down if the temp sensor goes wonky. If there are two devices (tem-sensor & safety-switch) then both would likely be attached to the tank that you would buy. Methods for fastening sensors to the tank may differ between different models but the creative use of nylon zip ties could resolve that issue. The solenoids (that control the flow of water) come in two different "flavors": gray plastic and metal. Based on my experience they are both the same size and they function exactly the same. I suspect the plastic ones come from newer Keurig models that are cheaper to make.
The heater section (bottom half) of the reservoir is made of metal. The top section is made of hard clear plastic. After each cycle, the water level is maintained at the lowest possible level with contact to SOME of the clear plastic in the top half. A major factor in microplastic concentration in the water is TIME. With regular usage, the level of microplastic leakage is acceptable to me.
Im having problems with my k155, I think the water level sensor is not working. Every time I turn it on it says refill water reservoir and the freaking reservoir is pretty well filled. I had to unplug the sensor but it didn’t work. Can you please help me find the issue ? Pleaseeeeeeee
Dean - Thank you so much for this tutorial - very helpful. I have an interesting situation occurring with my B150. Simply put, the coffee maker doesn't stop dispensing. In fact, upon closer inspection, it STARTS dispensing BEFORE the BREW CYCLE, and continues AFTER the BREW CYCLE - which obviously dilutes the coffee, over fills the mug, and makes a mess. I've tried descaling several times to no avail. The only way to stop it from dispensing is turning off the power. Interestingly, if I give it a little hit I can stop it from dispensing when its not supposed to. Currently, the 'workaround' is to hit it during the PREPARING state (if it starts dispensing BEFORE the BREW CYCLE) and after the BREW CYCLE if it continues dispensing. Does this make any sense? From your tutorial, it seems like the only way this can happen if if there is air pressure in the chamber. Is there a relay that purges the air pressure that may be stuck closed? Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Thomas Kelly, Banging on a Keurig to get it working properly is a sure sign that one or both of the solenoids in the machine needs to be replaced. (You can see them at 6:05 in the video.) The situation you're describing sounds like one of the solenoids is stuck open due to calcium deposit buildup. I had a home model that had a solenoid that was stuck closed. Banging on the side kept me cafinated until the replacement solenoids arrived from ebay. You could try running a gallon of pure white vinegar through the machine to descale the solenoids but I've found that eventually the solenoids will need to be replaced. Might as well do both of them while the unit is open. Good luck!
Our office machine stopped working recently. The pumps seem to be fine but it gets stuck heating water. I’ve drained the internal tank and it does refill it, it just doesn’t heat the water. Any help would be appreciated.
Sound like the heating element may be burned out. Or.. The relay that switches on the heating element is failing to make a good connection. I suppose you could CAREFULLY "hotwire" the heating element to a known 110v source and see if it works. You may be able to find a used heating/filling chamber on eBay.
Could anyone tell me what those 2 clear flexible hoses that come out of the back of the keurig are for, they have black plugs in them blocking them off... I assume draining the system?
Thanks Dean, your video helped me with tarring apart my K150P model, its a year old and suddenly it went dead, you could here were constant solenoid clicks. The LCD doesn't power on, I'm wondering if it the Circuit board has shorted out. Would you know where i could find a spare circuit board?
Ebay. Do a search for the words "keurig AND circuit AND board AND 150P". (everything between the quotes) I'd be surprised if you don't find one for sale.
Lots of clicking could also indicate a "low voltage" issue. Perhaps early signs of a failing transformer. The constant clicking could indicate that the circuit board is fine and trying to do its job but the low voltage is insufficient to maintain constant activation.
What the unit is doing now is both pumps (water & air) are operating non stop, the screen back light powers on but nothing shows on display. The clicking of the solenoids, one was stuck partially (light taps restored its functionality). I tested the transformer voltage output, it measures at 15.8V continuously. In your quest, did you come across any circut schematics for your machine, google has nothing on mine. Id like to see whats causing the malfunction of the board, i'll post a video tonight to show what I'm describing here. Here is the video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YJucQYCvsaQ.html
I think the first thing I would check would be the transformer that reduces voltage from 110 volts to (I forget) 12 or 19 volts. The transformer may have failed. Check for voltage coming out of the transformer. Take care to avoid being shocked by exposed 110 volt circuitry. The lower voltage is what powers the LCD display, sensors, pumps, etc. The clicking you hear is likely a relay that activates the heating element, which requires the full 110 volts. Another thing to check is to look for a blown low voltage fuse (if there is one) on the controller circuit board.
Question for you as you seem too know these machines far better than I do. Will the solenoids from a k155 work on a k150? I have a k150 that I determined (after watching this video) had a suck open solenoid, and it did. Had a working k155 that my wife broke (a piece in the pod chamber). I swapped out both solenoids from the k155 to the k150, now when I plug in the unit, I get a click from one of the solenoids, then nothing, the screen does not come on. I'm sure I've got them wired in correctly. Any help would be great as if I can't figure it out, then to the land fill it goes. The solenoid do look different, the one from the k155 are blue and the ones from the k150 are chrome and the labeling is quite different as well. I'm not an small appliance guy, just a parts changer so the labeling is Greek to me
Hi Dee. My guess is that the solenoids are interchangeable. Two factors to consider. Voltage and Function. The voltage (a number with the letter "V" after it) is typically printed on the solenoid. They should be the same on the old and "new" solenoids. The functionality can be checked by taking a short length of tubing and blowing through the solenoid while applying voltage. If there is no change in air flow then the solenoid is bad. But I think something else has happened. Regardless of whether the solenoid is good or bad, the screen should come on. The solenoid is nothing more than an electromagnet. It is not a relay that switches circuits on and off. So I suspect something else is preventing your screen from turning on. Perhaps a transformer going bad. I had that happen to m e. You might try swapping transformers. Don't forget to unplug it! :-)
@@deanstucker thanks for the response, and quickly too. Yeah I've come to that conclusion as well. It was functional before I started on it, and I did real good pulling it apart, so I thought. It was quite the bummer when put back together it wouldn't come back on. What I don't understand is why the solenoid tries to do whatever it does then nothing. There must be an internal check, and the system is not liking some thing and shuts down before even starting up. Unfortunately, even in these times, I do not have time to try and track down what I may have done wrong or may have broke while doing the swap. Have found another k150 close by for only 50 bucks, so this will become a parts machine or until I have time to try and figure out what happened in my attempt. But thanks for the reply, much appreciated
I have a k150p quote similar to the one you have. I took it apart and cleaned it as it wasn’t running. Ran a couple times and now it shows message. System overheated. Do you know how this can be fixed??
