Took back the LAST TWO you had because they were junk!? God I have that exact one. Haven't tested it yet, but this is likely my problem. Thanks so much for posting!
First for me to... kept thinking it was the wiring since it would test out alright... but wasnt awhole lot there to mess up. Thanks for watching buddy!
Man that sucks but clearly you put your mind to it and figure out that simple but tricky short circuitry. Good stuff my man. Should title video “why drivers should give mechanics a break” lol jk
Yeah I've thought about that... I've got alot of pistons and keep thinking about that... just kinda thought it might dig into your hand on a long drive?
Now I've got issues with my mud truck. I drove the truck under my carport, changed the steering box seal (nothing else) and now it won't start. It cranks but has no spark, not even from the coil. Power is going to the coil and I already tried a different coil?????
I had the same problem I bought a ignition switch made in China at NAPA and replaced it in the tractor and when I tighten it down no power to the acc position so the engine would start then when I let go it died . Took me 2 days to figure it out . I ended up borrowing a switch from my neibor few years older but same switch . His worked great so it had to be switch . I ordered one from Sears made in Korea worked great and cost 10 bucks more than at NAPA . Weird
Maybe you could help me. In my Ford LTD, I'll turn my key to the Start Position and it'll crank all day but won't ever start until I let the key go and it's in the Run Position, that's when it kicks off. Now if my understanding's correct, that means that the coil isn't getting juice from the battery but in one of the two positions it needs to be? I guess what I'm asking is, would that just be a matter of a bad plug or wiring from the battery to the coil or the switch?
Hey, i have a chevy silverado 94 model with a 5.7 fuel injected and it has a real rough idle and ive changed plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotory button, and cleaned the egr and it still does it. Need some advice or a video to describe whats wrong, would appreciate a reply. Thanks
Yeah I know what you mean with the 2 nuts.... but hell I had 3 of these and they all shorted like that... never even cranked down that center start contact. Junk!
Hi GB, yeah that would have drove me nuts, id prob have smashed it to pecies with a hammer,☺,i canny wait to see you ripping that sand rail,keep up the good work n keep video's coming,take care GB,n have fun ☺
yah im 14 years old but vary mechanically inclined, i would like to see a piston shifter on there. what state do you live in? you will half to do a burn out with the crappy tires for us, and if you drove a real long drive to meat a 14 year old that probably would not be vary fun for you. keep us posted!
Same switch I have, the problem I had with mine was after I hooked it up worked just fine until I went to shut off the engine wouldn’t shut off. I turned the gas valve off went and grabbed a can of pop came back out it was starting to die from running out of gas finally quit. Then all of a sudden the piece of shit switch was feeding power to the coil smoke like a sob. I hurried up and disconnected the ground off the battery. This is my second switch of this type that has given me problems. I’ve installed hundreds of ignition switches made wire harnesses I’m at the point where I don’t trust these switches. Bunch of low quality pieces of shit.
Literally got one from eBay for my 44 yr old fiat...It worked normally 3 times then it began having the same problem. I temporarily cured issue by putting a toggle switch in line with ignition wire “start” terminal. What a waste of time. Crappy Chinese parts
