As a surfer who spent 3 winter seasons on Kauai, this is something you sea local Hawaiians do constantly, whether intentional or not, getting in and out of the water in sketchy places with waves pounding the rocky coastline. I was in a similar situation surfing there, where I missed a takeoff and washed up to the rocks and had no choice but to time a large, white water surge lifting me out of the water, then cling onto a rock face and reel my surfboard up with my leash before the next surge.
I would say she knew what she was doing…staying relaxed, not fighting the waves and current, and exercising patience for the right moment to climb out. I imagine she has swam in there many times.
