A computer monitor will NOT take 20 watts all year if it is left plugged in. Why the hell do you think they have standby/sleep modes on them? It is for lazy people that don't turn them off. In that mode, they likely take only about 2 watts, not 20. You are off by an order of magnitude!
How much energy do you burn using that finger to turn that power strip off and on? That needs to be calculated in to get a true reading. Calories are not free energy
my Kill-A-Watt EZ meter (model P4460) says right on the back of it 50/60Hz which means it WILL work at 50 Hz or 60 Hz (and likely anything in between such as 55 Hz). Jeez do you even bother to read the label on it before making a big fool of yourself, wrongly saying that it will not work at 50 Hz in your annotation? Your logic is so whacked. Why do you think they would display Hz if it only worked at 60 Hz? What would be the point of displaying it then if it was always 60 Hz? Also you stated only works with 120V yet on my meter it states 125V max but doesn't say anything about the minimum voltage so it is safe to assume it will work at lower voltages such as 100V. Remember, the voltage in a house is not constant, if a branch circuit is heavily loaded, the voltage will sag on it. Similarly, if a low quality extension cord is used with a heavy load, the voltage will sag. I have seen double digit voltages on my Kill-A-Watt. Wow are you giving some very wrong information on RU-vid. Shame on you Amy! Downvoted for gross inaccuracy.
Amy you need to redo this video. At 3:00 your calculations make no sense. Somehow you go from kW/h per year and come up with $30. No mention of the rate. I live in California and we are on TOU rate plans. We pay $0.48kWhr every day in the summer for our peak rate, and as little as $0.12 during off peak. What you say is costing you $30 might be costing me over $100. Your video are very good buy the way.
Thanks. Because of that exact reason, so many different rates, I just picked $0.20/kWh as an average. Some people will pay more, some less. The big point is to see how much small items add up.
@@AltEStore Not sure if this is happening on the East Coast, but I live in California where three of the largest power companies have implemented Time of Use. The amount we pay for electricity changes 5 times per day. We pay as low as $0.12 and as high as $0.48 kHr. Other rate plans have customers paying as much as $0.87 kHr. It would be nice if you did an updated video on energy consumption translated to actual cost. Do you solar designers have software and know how to size a system for TOU customers? Every solar company I have talked to I've does not know how to design solar systems for TOU customers. They are grossly over designing which translates to more profit for them.
That's where solar plus storage is coming in. It's the next big thing. The amount of kWh you use doesn't change, just what it is worth. With self consumption, you make what you can during the day, store any excess in a battery, and either sell it when it makes financial sense, or use it yourself later in the day after the sun goes down. Most of the hybrid inverters are getting smarter with this programming to make it more financially viable. The added cost of the batteries is starting to be offset by the cost savings from TOU.
@@AltEStore In California there is no need for solar if one installs batteries. Charge the batteries for $0.10 kWhr at night and sell to the power company during the day for $0.50. For every kWhr sold to PG&E during the day, one can buy 5 back at night. That's a 500% return. Don't you wish you could get a 500% return on your stocks every single day? Or one could replace the batteries with solar panels and sell at $0.50 and buy back at $0.10. Do you sell any solar panel modeling software that works for ToU customers?
