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Caps rated X1 and Y1 are 400v for industrial use Caps rated X2 and Y2 are 250v for residential use Good video, it shows these caps can and will fail. Many times the across the line cap will fail and never have symptoms aside from dropping capacitance. That cap was used as a series element like a dropping resistor, that's why the device wasn't working right
I think the reason putting fresh solder on the connection makes the solder wick work better is the presence of new flux. I just put a drop of liquid flux on my solder wick at it becomes a magnet for solder, night and day difference.
Solder wick has flux in it but it's a dry powder and it does fall out. Adding solder adds flux to the joint and just gets it flowing again. So it's a common practice to do.
@@envisionelectronics you're wrong. Perhaps you cannot see the benefits to adding solder to a joint being disassembled but that does not mean they do not exist. Just that you're too dumb to figure it out. And that is your own personal problem. I'm not in a generous mood right now to take the time to explain it all to you either. Tough luck that is. I did but then I deleted that comment. Fuck ya.
Yeah, like others say, add some fresh solder ... adds flux and it will dilute that mostly tin (?) mix unleaded solder that had a higher melting point ...
Those dropper capacitors always fail. This kind of power supply is used because it is cheap, not because it lasts a long time! I have a couple of very accurate "Powermate" meters that were very expensive, yet both have failed due to the same use of Class X1 capacitors as droppers.
I had a Kill-a-Watt meter die on me about a year ago. I can't recall precisely what it was doing. I think the display was stuck display all 9s or 8s or something like that. I opened it up, didn't see anything obvious that was wrong with it. So I just wrote it off as a failure. Frankly I never liked the thing anyways. I always wished I had bought a Hopi instead but I wasn't sure at the time if they'd work with 110v. I just hate trying to read the non-illuminated display when I've got it plugged into outlets that are usually in dark, hard to get at places. And the Hopi just seems better quality and more thought out in general. I really regret buying the Kill-a-Watt instead.
The hopi is better for electronics as it has all the extra ways to plug into it, and all the different types of readings, like power factor. Kill a watt meters are best for just measuring the power draw of a device, and that's it.
@@rich1051414 Yeah the Hopi seems overall superior in almost every way. Yet it was a comparable price to the Kill-A-Watt, as I recall. But that's just a life lesson imo. Buy it right and buy it once. That is, if you spend a bit of extra money, take a bit of extra time to do your due diligence in researching what you're buying, and being willing to pay a bit extra to get something that does the job properly without any compromises. Although these days even IF you spend extra on something, it's still designed to fail within half a decade. Heirloom quality anything is just a myth now.
I used it for about a month to monitor a small water heater. Beyond that, I rarely use for more than a week at a time or quick measurements. That cap failed fast.
I've had a similar failure (reading high voltage -don't know how long b/c I don't monitor that param as much as watts). It was plugged in 24/7 to monitor a computer regularly. It was behind a surge protector that indicates it's still good. You seem to imply that leaving plugged-in is ill-advised. Is it b/c of surges causing the described failures (which I would think a surge protector should decrease that risk) or for other reasons than a surge blowing the components?
