Yeah, it's an exciting time, though I'm sure there will be some lows to come (I'm thinking about fairing the inside of the whole boat when I say that).
yeah, that first cove on BH10 was just not enough to make the smooth turn for the fiberglass, but we noticed that while it was still uncured so it was a quick fix.
Great choice of prop. You will love it. I upgraded my monohull two seasons ago with the sigma drive and prop. Very happy with the performance improvement.
Wow. Those coves look pretty slick. I can see that your fabrication skills are sharpening as the build progresses. Nice work. With every component brought on board, there is one more thing that can fail. A flat plank and a paddle are unlikely to fail, but wouldn't make for much of a comfortable cruising experience. A 100% automated large sailing vessel would be super comfy, but would be a maintenance nightmare. I drove myself crazy with those high-tech vs. low-tech decisions when I designed our house. I can see that you have spent a bunch of time trying to find the sweet spot on that curve as well, and you are adopting those technologies that you understand well and can debug in remote locations. The only suggestion I would make is to rely on vendors that are not likely to go out of business anytime soon, and to bring a closet-full of spare parts that will be difficult to source when you are on the hook in Bali or Borneo. Good luck with your build and your sailing adventure. 🙂
And again so much important precious details on foam core boat building! Your videos are definitely #1 in my rating! Lovely people! I start feeling like a member too :-) because never missing any episode! Legendary!
So I'm taking notes for my potential build. You guys love sanding, fairing, and peeling peel ply. I sure the list is going to grow. My lord, that engine is gorgeous!
@@scotthansen4356 I think i'm going to get a small 18' (or so) kit and build that first to see how much I love sanding, fairing, and peeling peel ply... before committing to a SOLITAIRE 1490. I'm really looking forward to the fairing/sanding the overheads and the cove corners.
@_mysilentblue2227: I built a 10' kit monohull long ago, so I had a little idea... but not on this scale! Still, it's not that much different, just a lot longer time to build!
Hi guys! The progress is rapid now. Looking great! I like your solution for the brake calipers. Simple and efficient. I didn't see a thrust bearing in your drive system diagrams. Will you be mounting a separate bearing for this, or is it incorporated into one of the other components? Another thought that has come up while watching you install the bulkheads, how do you ensure that there is no twist glued into the hulls as you glue the bulkheads in? The hull can "rotate" around the bulkhead a little, which would introduce misalignment between the hull top edges and the side panels that will be added later. The degree of this misalignment increases with distance from the bulkhead. I see this as being an issue only in the aft section where the hulls have a rounder profile. That smoking epoxy looks freaky!! It might be worthwhile mixing in a small % of the slower hardener as temperatures increase into summer, just to slow the reaction down a bit.
Top tip for mixing the epoxy, once mixed in the tub, pour out onto a mortar board/sheet of aluminium, and continue mixing before bagging the mix, this will allow some of the heat to dissipate.
We haven't gotten to the bearings and shaft portion yet, that's still to come! As for any twist, the hulls have a natural position from being glassed on the forms. As long as we don't stand in the hulls while the epoxy cures, no twist is introduced. We stay out while the epoxy cures and check the levels on the bulkheads several times. We are using all slow hardener already, freaky, hey?
Good explain of the system. Should work well. It occurred to me that you only need to suspend the motor over its location, rather than fix it into position, before you do the last few bulkheads Manipulating the engine from a temporary "shelf" after the beds are in won't be too tricky
We'll get the motor mounts built soon enough to get the motor in position. Schionning has already sent the new plans to Bruntons so we should have the final design soon.
That is a lot of items on the shaft. Let's hope they are all balanced perfect. Vibration is usually caused by unbalance of items on the shaft. Also having so many items on shaft I suggest a thicker shaft. That will help with vibration also.
I think your propulsion system is the way to go. We sail on a 52' catamaran and are considering a new boat with the hybrid in one hull and electric in the other. A couple of thoughts: 1) I think 80HP is more than you need. We have two Beta 38HPs and they are sufficient. Would be better to have more, but double is not necessary. 2) 20-25kw for the electric engines is good. I think, however, (and I am not an expert) that you need more battery capacity. As a general rule Lithium batteries can peak discharge at short intervals their full capacity (in your case, I believe, 12.2KW). At steady state they are generally rated to discharge half their capacity (6.1kw). I could be wrong here, but you should check into. Battery manufactures have this info on their web sites.
We have 33KwH., 690amps at 48v. This boat was designed to have 100hp (two 50hp diesels). Running one 80hp diesel and one 25kw electric motor (34hp) we have a maximum of 114hp. So we have a little more but close to the designed range. Also, these cells are designed to discharge 80% of their capacity.
Get that boat roof on before the summer heat gets here. Have you considered just keeping it simple and doing a stainless grab rail along the roof on each side? Might not be as sleek as your vision but it could be great for tying into or strapping stuff down, more of a function over form.
We want the rain catchment system, so we might as well make that the hand holds and save some money on stainless work. We'll get the whole roof done before the hottest months (July, August, September in So. Cal.). We should be starting on the roof by the end of next week.
Yes, we did mention that toward the end. However, there is really no way to eliminate any of those components, other than the Sigma Drive, if we want to have propulsion, regeneration, less drag while sailing, and have the diesel act as a generator. So, we decided that a second diesel on board (as a separate generator) would have more possible failures than what we added to this one diesel. And, even then, the only thing we could have eliminated was the magnetic clutch.
I agree and understand! Unfortunately, since we want to sail around the world, that comes with some complexity we have to accept (and do a lot of boat work along the way, no doubt).
I'd recommend supporting the aft end before you put the engine in. Its moving and sagging some just from you guys leaning on it. Other than that, it looks great!
What you are seeing is a bit of twist, not sag. And that is out at the sugar scoops . The twist out there is due to not having bulkheads 8 and 9 glassed in yet. When it comes to our diesel, since we aren't using sail drives, our engine is placed nearly amidship. It goes right up to bulkhead 6, the big one, which is located right over the cradles on the cement pads. There won't be any movement there when we drop in the engine. And, after that bulkheads 8 and 9 will be glassed in next.
Thanks so much for sharing all your design thoughts, challenges and solutions. It's fascinating engineering to achieve your desired outcomes. At any point did you consider a (diesel) generator, instead of a diesel engine, to power 2 x electric motors (in addition to your battery bank and regen capability)? I am wondering if the "advantage" of a diesel engine with the complexity of hybrid prop shaft, really matters, and if generator + 2 x electric motors wouldn't be simpler and still deliver your desired outcomes. 1) If you are out of diesel, or if the diesel hardware fails, you have no propulsion using diesel with either system. 2) You still have electric / battery (& regen) backup with either system. 3) generator removes hybrid prop shaft complexity, still allows regen, vs arguable benefit of diesel engine in event of no sail + no electric propulsion possible (such an unlikely scenario with dual electric motors + diesel generator). I am sure you have given it a lot of thought, and I've watched all your videos, so apologies if I missed why you dismissed that option.
You are very welcome, and thanks for following along and making suggestions. But to answer your question, yes, we looked at every propulsion system we have ever seen and compared them all. In the end, we choose our system because it we believe it is our best choice: 1) It is lighter by hundreds of pounds. 2) It requires less maintenance. 3) It is more fuel efficient. 4) It is a safer system. 5) It saves you a huge number of hours of listening and smelling a diesel engine. 6) And, when it comes to cost, though it loses to the diesel system in initial installation cost, it makes up that amount over time in fuel and maintenance savings. 7) It has more horsepower. If you are one of our Patrons that gives you access to the Crew Only section of our website. There we go into detail about all the various systems as we compare them against each other. But, I will go ahead and talk a bit about an electric motor / diesel generator system for you right now. If we went with an electric/diesel generators option it would... 1) Be heavier: You need two 30 kw generators to run two 25kw electric motors, and those weigh a lot more than one diesel engine. 2) Have more maintenance costs: Two diesel generators means double the maintenance. 3) Be less fuel efficient: Converting energy always has loses, and there are more conversations in a system using a generator to power electric motors. 4) Not as safe: It requires both the diesel and electric system to function if you want to motor off diesel. Our diesel or electric motors can power one (diesel) or both props even if the other doesn't work or if you are out of diesel or battery power. 5) Be Noisier and smelly: Anytime you are out of battery power and want to motor, you must run two diesel generators. 6) Cost more to buy: Purchasing two 30kw diesel generators is more expensive than one diesel engine. 7) Not have enough horsepower: A 25kw electric motor puts out 34 hp. When you multiply that by two motors, that is 68hp. Our boat was designed to use around 100 hp (for emergencies, or if going against a strong current, like going up the Rhine River). Our system has 114 hp (maximum). I hope that answers your question. Keep the comments coming! :)
@@SailingSVLynx Thanks so much for taking the time to answer. The weight and cost disadvantages alone would sell me on the path you've gone down. I really like how with a little complexity in the clutch and hybrid shaft solution you can reach your goals cheaper and lighter. Great engineering and great planning. Well done so far mate, you're an inspiration to many.
Great milestone guys ! Good job. 👍 Btw, is there no thick salon floor ie a 'box beam' to worry about - bc I find myself thinking 'is that it' insofar as rigidity goes - just a few 'flimsy' thin bulkhead panels?
@@SailingSVLynx Oh ok, Thanks for that - makes more sense now. Sorry to be a nag , but how thick if I may ask - 200mm ? And I'm now more intrigued because I would have thought it easier to rigidize the hulls by building /installing that part before adding floppy bulkheads?
@@MikeWalker-mijeau The bulkheads have to go in first because the floor comes up from below to attach to those bulkheads. The thickness of the sole is 220mm.
That is not good for the epoxy to be smoking. Maybe use a slower hardener. The motor stuff is a bit complex but there is also a lot of redundancy. If some bits or pieces fail, they will not interfere with the other pieces (as long as the various clutches remain functional). So I don't really think it is a big problem. There would be some learning curve for crew or if you ever sell the boat. But I think it is manageable.
This is such a big boat, it probably doesn't matter, but how much does moving the Nani from one side to the other effect the weight distribution? Maybe it's a negligible consideration?
Will you have or need any safety mechanisms to prevent a drive operating when the shaft brakes are engaged, do the bulkheads need much adjustment or are they fitting the hull as supplied.
The bulkheads are fitting as supplied, with a few minor 1/8" trims occasionally (3mm). It would be nice to have a safety mechanism, but I don't know how we would accomplish that. However, it should be very obvious at the helm when the brakes are engaged since the brake levers will be pushed forward, and they will be right up by the throttle levers. So, when you go to use the throttle, you will see the brake's position. Think of it like a car's emergency brake, you don't have any safety mechanism there, you just have to disengage the emergency brake before you can drive.
2 questions Captain: is there any raw material in the boat, that doesn't need a peelply-off? 😂 Other question is about the electro-magnetic clutch: is it normally open or normally closed? So do you need electricity to open it, or to close it? just for safety reason, I hope it is normally closed, so if you have any issue with the clutch circuit or the clutch itself, you still be able to run the diesel and the prop.
12:17 Is it typical in marine world for have shafts to be made to order? Or are there off the shelf models you could use, possibly with some extenders/spacers? I am wondering what happens when you replace anything in a hybrid setup, e.g. replace an engine or even a clutch/decoupler for another brand or model, thus changing the requirement for shaft's length? Additionally, are both of your shafts the same length? I would imagine so. It will be interesting to see how will you install just the electric engine in other hull.
I'm not sure, we are just getting to talks with a company about our prop shafts. However, I can answer one of your questions right now, the shafts will be the same length on both sides.
@@SailingSVLynx Given your previous videos, I am looking forward to all the technicalities of it explained in one of your future ones! Great job so far, I am learning a ton with you, planning on building my own cat sometime in 3-4 years. Thanks!
Why not one diesel engine generator combo wired to two electric motors? Would take out the complexity of the prop shafts and disconnecting systems. You could then look at putting the engine somewhere more workable for repair or replacement.
Horsepower. Each electric motor is 25 kw, or about 34 horsepower. That's only 68 hp total. This boat was designed to have 100 hp for emergencies or when you are in a strong current, etc. Then there is the size of the generator. You would need two 25kw generators, or one 50kw generator. That's a lot of weight and a lot more cost. Together, two 25 kw generators weigh something like 1,800 lbs., one 50 kw generator weighs around 1,400 lbs. Our Nanni 80 hp diesel weighs 720 pounds. The cost is also much higher, as in $9,000 more at least. There are also additional loses in power conversion vs a diesel to a straight shaft.
@@SailingSVLynx Sure, but I suppose the point argued was your setup being advantageous over a hybrid series and a diesel failing doesn't affect either setup.
Cutlass bearings last over 3,000 hours of use. With our locking shaft, it doesn't even turn while we sail. It only turns while we regenerate or use the motors. The times we regenerate are less than when we motor. So, if we need to replace the cutlass bearing after 3,000 hours, so be it. We don't have to haul out to do that either. So, not all that much cost.
@@normanboyes4983 Lots of it out there... downeastboatforum.com/threads/how-long-does-a-cutlass-bearing-last.33331/ forums.sailboatowners.com/threads/preemptive-cutlass-bearing-replacement.122026/ www.safe-skipper.com/cutless-bearing-replacement/
@@SailingSVLynx Sorry (again) I was challenging the O/P for evidence. I was a sea going Marine Engineer for 35 years. There is no conceivable reason why regen would cause additional cutlass bearing wear other than would be caused by the shaft rotating under propulsive power. Besides that, what is better 1000 hours of cutlass bearing wear and ‘free’ electrical power OR 1000 running hours on the diesel engine and 1000 running hours of fuel?
Good explanation of the propulsion system, design choices and operating modes, I think you have hit the sweet spot. Good progress with the bulkheads.😀👍
