Your workmanship is superb. I like to think that I do a neat and tidy install but your work inspires me to double my efforts. I feel you and some of the other RU-vid electricians channels are become a valuable tool in raising standards in the industry. Thanks for sharing Luke keep up the good work.
A few things I really liked when watching this: - Individual boxes in back of cabinet for fuses. - The recommendation and spreading of knowledge on Knightsbridge sockets and also screwless plates on sockets - these are the future without a doubt. - The effort you put in to doing the lighting tricks when you threw them in the air and they were installed. - Lots of good commentary throughout. Really enjoy watching your channel thanks for the effort you put into it will grow no doubt. Cheers.
Awesome work dude. :) either the plasterer was very kind or your box cutting is so neat and tidy. I think the latter. :) nice one. Always look forward to the next video.
Do you have any videos of putting in under cupboard lights like shown, its interesting to watch how different sparks install, your work is above normal standard I like it.
I must say, I don't really go for polished chrome as they seem to be magnets for fingerprints but these didn't seem too bad. I work out the position of my spotlights exactly the same, I never do anything without applying logic... great minds thinks alike 😉
Thank you for another excellent video. Can you show us the complete process for measuring and positioning downlights eg how do you find joists, feed cable etc from one light to another minimising decor damage.
I see you use the Enlite FD pro. I really rate these fittings, push terminals, super quick to fit also use the ICE lamps which must have fitted thousands and only ever had 2 fail
Great job all looks nice and tidy. Another one you can be proud of. Looking forward to hearing how you price your jobs. Can I ask what you do for advertising and how you generate your work?
Good video again mate .but I’m not a fan of them switches or the flat plate ones . If you have a old wall or a badly plastered wall they look mince . Either the plate dong clip on or if it’s a flat plate you can see the Kink in the plate when the shiny lights on it if it’s screwed to far and most of the time you have to tighten it as far as it goes to even look half decent .
Love your videos and you're bang on. I did a one month residential course 17th Edition Domestic installer and Tester and still don't know half the things you do so didn't stick at it, five years on and I'm out of date, at 47 years old I can't be an apprentice but you are jogging my Memory on a lot of things and I'm hoping to right the wiring in my house. I have Chip Board upstairs, how do you combat that? As for your channel , fantastic, keep it up
I'm interested to know who cleaned out the boxes after the plastering because in my experience most plasterers will completely bury a box without a thought. Unless you know the plasterer and have a special arrangement with him then you'll usually end up measuring the walls to find your socket and switch boxes. I used to coil the cables up inside the boxes and cover them with cardboard and tape to protect them, if I was lucky the plasterer would leave a little tell tale hole in the plaster so I could locate the boxes and then spend hours chiselling them out. I've even had to cover the threads on the fixing lugs with petroleum jelly on some boxes so the plaster wouldn't stick to and ruin the threads. Some so called tradesmen are jus totally lazy cowboys and show no respect or regards for anyone else's work.
Ahhh...I can tell you it's no different for us in the US...smh. Begin a job with rough-in of the wiring and boxes...to return at a later date, after the gypsum board /drywall has been hung, had it's seams taped and covered with joint compound, (aka drywall mud). Thats when the That's when the "fun" begins.... for some years now, the gents doing this work have adopted the "rotary tool/spiral saw" into their work process. This means they don't measure and cut out the holes for the electrical device boxes anymore, like they use to do...No Sir! That is far too time consuming for them! No, instead they just take full sheets of drywall, slam it up against the framing, and start screwing it to the studs and joists, after which, they start plunging their spiral saw bits into the approximate locations of the (now) buried electrical boxes. Once they feel rotary saw bit make contact with the edge of device box, they push against it to cut out the box's profile until the box face literally pushes through the cut out hole. Needless to say they often cut into the wiring that's been neatly and carefully tucked, which means it's now fu'd... often fill the boxes with joint compound (essentially plaster) and have at least a couple of of device boxes they "forgot" to go back and cut out...which turns into a game of "Marco Polo"...better hope you were the one who roughed in, or have an accurate blueprint...or you may spend some fun time wondering wtf is the matter with this 3-way lighting circuit??? ...(that is actually a 4-lighting circuit that has had the center switch buried, lol...) I do take some solace in knowing our troubles are not unique, Gentleman. I enjoyed your video, Cheers! **Rant Completed*
Perhaps you could make some temporary faceplates, slighlty undersize that would fit inside the boxes covering and protecting the wires. They could have a knob that would project out through any covering plaster and enable them to be located and pulled out. Cover them with tape each time so that any plaster can be easily stripped off ready for the next use.
Luke, what method do you use to dress cable(s) below work top level, ie leave them dangling, trunked buried in wall...? Nice work by the way. Love the attention to detail.
Wow! I migrated to here from how to put in an extra socket. I think maybe I'll get you guys to come n do them. I've got a double spur from one double wall socket in my kitchen (like it when I moved in). And that's the only double socket in my kitchen, apart from a single one behind my washing machine. Not much use with the amount of appliances I've got.😕 That means removing the wall tiles to channel the walls for the cables... It's gone from installing an extra socket to a big job.😕 Is this likely to cost me a lot of money, do you think?
Hi Luke. Interested in the double dimmer. The dimmer switch that does the led lights under the kitchen cabinets, what happens if you turn down the dimmer? Or is this some sort of on/off switch only that doesn't turn but looks like a dimmer switch?. Cheers.
Great work im currently doing my wiring in kitchen extension. Had a question about oven cooker isolation switch can this be behind the cupboards or does it need to be above worktop.
When you put surface boxes in a cupboard like youv done for the appliances can they go at any height ?? Also Seen em installed in the cupboard under the sink is this allowed in the regs mate great videos as per 👍
Great video! Always learn from watching them. Just a quick question, when installing downlights, like you did in this kitchen, obviously you have a feed from a previous room to the one downlighter, then the rest are daisy chained (i think thats right). Does the last downlighter you install have a feed for the next room? So as the loop in method continues? Hope this makes sense lol. Thanks
Hi Luke. I supplied my switch with a brand new circuit from the DB. I then daisy chained a radial of downlights from the switch. Neutrals are wago'd together, cpc's are in the back of the box. Line from DB in common and Line to the first downlight in L1
My Trusted Electrician thank you ever so much for the reply! Am i right in thinking the kitchen lights are on their own circuit then? Or does that radial feed the whole of downstairs?
You still haven't picked your royal mail parcel up mate. Lol. A quick question, do you get much work from check a trade and is it worth it? Thanks for the vids mate
😅 picked it up this morning. It was for a cheap small lazer level. Wasn't worth the money and the post office que. Cack! Yay and nay. It helps but you need to put the effort in. Pictures and Testimonials etc...
@@MyTrustedElectrician Think I'll give it a whirl, don't mind putting the effort in if it pays off, cheers pal. Self-Leveling Green Laser Level - Huepar 902CG Green Beam Cross Line Laser 360° Coverage Horizontal and Vertical Line Coming with Magnetic Pivoting Base, Pulse Modes Allow Use with Laser Target www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B074Z52383/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kzD-BbXJ5XG4T Bought this of amazon. It's brilliant.
great tutorials thanks I've subscribed. Although retired 10 years now after a lifetime in building I am learning tips so thanks for that . Heres a question for you. How can I hide or disguise socket outlets in a kitchen ? Lots of images and programs on the tv show fabulous kitchens but not a socket outlet in sight anywhere along the worktops?? I just cut into my party wall today to sink some shallow boxes and popped straight through into the cavity at 25mm depth ! Arghh When this barn was converted back in the 80s the tightfisted developer has used 140mm thick hollow blocks for the party wall between me and my neighbour ......No wonder we can here every sound they make next door .. Now I need to find a way of hiding the socket outlets or I'll never hear the end of it from her indoors
They're earthed watch again. Sorry it's a bit fast. However they didn't need to be. So the only time they need to be earthed is when the metallic box doesn't have at least 1 fixed lug for the 3.5mm screw/bolt. It's good practice to do it regardless.
@@fraserreid2390 but we all know you shouldn't be working live ;-) always good practice to bond to the back box but as luke pointed out there is the fixed lug scenario.
craig patterson aye, but how would you do a loop impedance test at a spur in that case? I just had it drummed into me as an apprentice to do it so can’t not do it now! Along with having the bus touching the thread in a coupler
