Kits With Chris Episode 12 Hakko FX 951 First Look 

What's going to be the standard size/shape tip for general use? The FX951 on Amazon that comes with one tip uses a D16, but the bundle that comes with 5 tips comes with D08, D12, D24, D32 and D52. I believe I read that the FX888D uses a D16 by default. I think my old workplace used a D24 for soldering 22AWG stranded wire together but I can't really remember if it was that big, or if it just looked that big while tinned. Or would you even recommend going up to a D32? Which two or three chisel tips would you recommend? I was thinking the D12, D16, and D24. I'll probably only play around with computer keyboard PCBs, RC cars, and electric guitar wiring. Do you think a D08 is too small? Thanks!

The little tiny holes are manufacturing artifacts, they're not used in the actual iron. All the electrical connections go to those ring terminals - the thermocouple is in series with the heating element. The extra connections to the iron are for a tilt sensor, tip ESD ground, an LED in the handle, a thermistor in the handle for sensing the ambient temperature, and possibly a couple others I'm not aware of. Not all handles make use of all these connections - I think the ones you have are just tip heater/sensor, thermistor, and ESD ground.

This is how you test a user interface!!

Fx 888d vs this one whichs better? Do i need a 100w / 158w 120w 90w solder iron? I like hakko best company i guess better then yiuha and wep ATTEN etc Im new to this i want a good soldering iron and reliable

And the 888 is a higher voltage (26 or 28V vs 24 for the 951) and yeah the heater is bonded part of the tip for the 951.

Oh and you can get more of those green tip holders, then you can change them quicker easier by leaving the finger holder on it.

Settings are done by start wi5 iron off, insert card hold up and down and turn it on...there’s only like six settings. I always have to look up the tables.

The blinking dot is the heating indicator FYI

Yeah the 951 is a production floor iron. That’s why temp control is on the lockout card.

You need to set the soldering iron temp lower. For the two rolls of solder I sent you, the iron temp should be set between 183°C/361°F and 190°C/374°F. I wouldn't go above 200°C/392°F unless you are soldering with lead free solder, but even then the temp only tops out at about 230°C/446°F. I will post a good Temp reference chart in General. The solder spools I sent you are Kester Sn60Pb40 (60/40) .062" and Kester Sn63Pb37 (63/37) .031". I don't know why 750° is defaulted, but JFC it's *way too high* a temp for any type of electronics soldering. Higher temps doesn't make soldering any faster, but it can lead to crappy solder joints because the flux cooks off before the solder can properly flow and wet. It's possibly why your solder joints look globby. Also burnt flux gunks up the pads instead of cleaning them making it harder for the solder to stick Lowering the temp will also help prevent heat damage to components and boards. For SMD components iron temp is critical due to their size and construction. Having too high of an iron temp, especially 750°, can quickly damage or destroy pretty much any component. For thru hole components, iron temp isn't quite as critical except for LED's and IC's given that their leads can't transfer heat as quickly. But very high temps can cause solder pads to come off or, weaken them so they fail later.

Idk who designed it, but temperature control on this unit is just crazy complicated. There are tons of better soldering stations with much more user friendly interface/settings. Guy who use this every day will get used to it over time, but Jesus Christ, the logic of making adjustments to settings of anything on this unit is horrible. Even the cheapest chinese digital soldering station on Aliexpress has better interface for settings than this.