KLR 650 Doohickey Upgrade 

Honda rocks!

Hi Bill. I actually had a torsion spring that was intended for this. I think the torsion spring saves a few steps of dissassembly. No reason why I chose this spring over the other. And this sealer wasn't the super-tacky type. I'm pretty sure I used silicone - based gasket sealer that hardens to a compound that is easily removed. Sorry, I don't have a tube of it close by or I would specify the model number. It was from Auto-Zone and I've used it several times, it comes apart easily and cleans up easily.

Ah, good question on the Rotor Bolt torque. I used a torque wrench, and it was hard enough I rested the 'special tool' on the front foot peg/engine guard. So I'm guessing the torque was up in that range. Sorry I'm not more specific. I'm sure I looked it up & knew at the time.

VideoOverdrive The proper Torque Sequence for the Rotor Bolt is crank it down to 85 ft. lbs., loosen it back up, then crank it down to 120 ft. lbs.

Since a 2022 probably doesn't have enough miles on it to worry about, that's a tough call. I haven't kept up with the engineering updates for the KLR. One would hope they've redesigned it by now, a decade since the Doohickey gained attention.

+Lee Brown Eagle Mfg. Rotor Holder Wrench KAWASAKI KLR650 on Amazon Eagle also makes a Balance Idle Lever and sells upgrade springs.

OK thanks man... I knew about the idle lever.. Just didn't know that they also sold that wrench also.. Cool.

+VideoOverdrive why did you decide to go with the coil spring instead of the torsion spring? Also what is torque on adjuster bolt after adjustment is done?

www.happy-trail.com/doohickey-klr650-all-years.html These guys have a good reputation.

Thank you William

Just one question William, is it the famous Doohickey ? Thank you

Hi - good question. I also had a 2004 KLR and around 10,000 miles it started making a noise in that part of the engine, but I would think tappet adjustment would have been a good place to look. However, I had to move and sold it. Other you-tubers give a "before and after" sound and the engine sounds better after upgrading. It has been my understanding The Doohickey problem didn't start until the year 2007 redesign.

IIRC it's every 3000, and you just pop off a little rubber stopper, then loosen and tighten a bolt. Opening the engine is just to replace the adjuster with aftermarket which is known to fail.

Hi Ben, I'd certainly looks elsewhere for troubleshooting starting problems.

+darkhorse2reign - the KLR does run a little rough when the idle isn't right. Several other problems can make it run rough also. So... if you're getting up in miles, it's a good idea to check it. Can anyone service it?..... there are special tools, as shown in the video. If you don't normally change oil, tires, spark plugs, coolant flush, brakes, brake flush by yourself with your eyes closed, then NO WAY is this a starter project.

There is no specific torque specs on those bolts.

There most certainly is a torque spec for those bolts, both inner and outer engine cover bolts are torqued to 78 INCH pounds.

Shaft drive? That would be horrible for off road use. It would make it easier to stall the engine, and probably make it easier to dump your bike.

I disagree,..... I emailed Kawasaki & it's more of a Maintenance issue..... Easier to replace a chain than dealing with a shaft assembly. In the middle of " nowhere",..( which I agree).But they said it can be done.......

I was just kicking the thought around,..... & it sounded nice! :). Lol!.......

Jerrythe coo lol, while their at it tell them to turbo charge it too.

seriously, WTF are you listening to??