KNIFE THINNING -15 min Process & More details on a Killer Belt Sander Modification. 

I just did a new mod. The plenum has 4 distinct sections. 1- at the rear is hard & flat(3”) 2-next is flat soft(3”) 3-then a soft section that gently slopes down (3”) replicating about a 14” contact wheel section. 4- is slack belt (5”) It’s working great. The curved section lets you concentrate the belt contact.

@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER hey bud! I’m new to your channel and I like it a lot so far. Ive recently got into sharpening over the past couple years. Just want to see what your thoughts are about the work sharp ken onion edition with the blade grinder attachment? It’s basically turns it into like a mini belt grinder. It’s on sale for $199 and I’ve heard good things. I have a knock off edge pro and some wet stones. I can get a pretty good shaving edge on knives but it just takes too long sometimes. When I’m not doing my nicer pocket knives I don’t want it to take 15 -20 minutes to sharpen kitchen knives or working knives lol I saw your video on the wen unit and I’m thinking maybe that is a good alternative.

@@ericrankin4666 it’s described by many as a toy. I haven’t used the grinder attachment so I can’t comment on that feature but the one I bought and tried was very limited. Belt was too slack and no adjustment. If you’re only sharpening a few knives it might be ok. Watch my “sharpening business part 4” 3:15 sec

@@ericrankin4666 edge pro works well. Once sharp it’s faster after that. Work sharp isn’t on my list but some are happy with it. Buy from retail that lets you return. Try it. I know a few guys who tried it but returned it

Thanks, but a lot of the finished quality is due to the cushioned section of the belt sander. It really smoothes things out.

Same, I don't get out much either.

The metal on the Japanese stone acts like pencil lead. It’s a mark that a magnet won’t fix

@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER I was referring to the metal dust that comes from the grinding of the knife and it is dispersed by the small fan. If you place a magnet on the wall in the back of the belt sander, at the end of the belt, all the metal particles will be thrown straight to the magnet and won't fly away around your trailer or workshop. You could empty the magnet once is full.

@@redangrybird7564 Sorry for the misunderstanding. The metal falls away fast enough with the fan and the fact it's being thrown to the back of the sander but the belt grit material is the bad part it is lighter and more of a concern to me.

I just used a order tray to check the rock. generally I use the edge of my wood tool box but I didn’t want to exit the shot.

Cotton 1/8” stitching two 1/2” x 10” wheels, black magic compound

Glad they help.

@@iSharpen depends $30?

@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER Sounds right. Translates to about $50 down here.

“Rock hard” felt wheel w/ black magic compound. Rock hard is a hardness grade used for felt wheels. It’s not really rock hard.

@Lessko Brandon oops. It’s a block of felt wheel material. You can buy the blocks or cut up the unusable old felt wheels. I haven’t been using it lately

Beef and beer, makes total sense.

That was a 1”x1” cube of hard felt block. I actually didn’t use it now. If you can’t find the felt try a wine cork

Thank you sir.

Wow you have inspired me to buy older junk knives and bringing them back to life! Thank you

Are you a pro sharpener? Where?

​@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER Mr. Pete, I'm a DIY home gamer in MD. I just do my own and help a few friends and neighbors with their sharpening. I have started with a Lansky and recently got a WEN (after watching you) and sharpen for fun. In a previous life I was an Operations Engineer. I appreciate the thoughtful build out of your pop-up vending booth. Especially the: Honda 2200 NHV isolation, work area layout/flow and custom design adaptation to your requirements. I find it interesting you incorporate lean manufacturing techniques in your work. Like Poka Yokes, the Buck-O Meter to used to "fool proof" your processes. And to complement you again; your free had work is beautifully done. -Bill

Yes

It happened all at once. For about 10 days. RU-vid must have been placing a video in feeds. But sadly the Rat still getting no love.

Tormek sj250

Indeed. I am more shocked he does everything freehand. Granted of 53K knives, you get some good muscle memory, but still. The stones on the Tormeks are always shrinking so keeping a consistent angle is different for every knife you sharpen.

Ha ha. I get it.

I generally use clues from how the knife made.

@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER What would I look for in terms of clues ?

@@danielbottner7700 Hard to explain here but I'll try. for example say you have a chef knife with a hammered finish. But the hammered texture is removed when the secondary bevel is ground in. It's generally less than 1/2 the knifes width, perhaps 1/3. So if this knife comes to me I would try to keep the new thinner secondary bevel the same width just thinner at the apex. Or if the knife is just smooth perhaps you thin 1/2 way up and blend the grind so the whole side looks smooth but slightly convex. As I did in the video. Sometimes I choose this because the knife had rust as in this video. Or perhaps you messed up making the secondary bevels match and just blending the whole side is faster. All this said many sharpeners only bring the thinner secondary bevel up 1/4". It's fast and greatly improves the cutting. If you rant charging this is reasonable to do at no extra cost. I do this when generally cooks bring cheap thick knives for sharpening and want their $10 chef knife thinned. Don't get hung up on how I decide. Im sharpening fast. I make decisions on the fly. Many guys really do a better job I can't afford to do. If your business gives you time to thin the knife more and that's what is wanted do it. You will gain skills. Now that I explained Im wondering if you were asking about the primary bevel edge and how thin to go? If that's what you meant I let the knifes condition tell me how thin. if it's a beat up apex then I leave it thicker. if its a very thin Japanese knife with no chips this I take it thinner. But when it gets real thin heat will blue the edge in one light pass.

Well let me explain it then. I'm not using dry stones! My process goes as follows. Tormek SG250 Second I go to a Very Fine/very Hard non woven abrasive wheel. It smoothes out the rough grind but is forgiving on the angle. This is important since hand sharpening is hard enough without having to NAIL the angle from one stone to another. These stones all wear at different rates. I go thru 4 SG250 a year and one SJ250 in the same time. And size matters when trying to match angles. After the non woven I micro bevel the apex with the SJ250. I don't need to match the grind but set the final apex. Lastly I do a light hone with a Rock Hard felt wheel covered with compound.

@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER very thoughtful procedure. many details there. SHARPENING LIKE ARTIST! BTW: in tormek video, they always use jig, so freehand is more efficient standing business point of view?

@@leox8888 definitely. Useing jigs will produce a finer edge but the time it takes is too costly. I work at farmers markets. 5 hr day generally. At 1-2 minutes a knife I can sometimes be busy the whole time. And that’s with a helper dealing with the customers. If I used jigs I guess I would have to charge triple or more to make the same. And I am told by the customers who are chefs that I consistently deliver far sharpener knives. During Covid shutdown i had a couple drive a hour to my house instead of going to the local guy in their area. Always check your work! Ps. The reason tormek uses jigs in videos is the videos are for people who don’t have the skills yet or are only sharpening a small amount of knives.

I’ll cover that in future videos. I just released a few days ago the first of that series. The first couple videos will be info on a startup equipment for the complete novice. Then the series will be covering more business info.

@@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER I look forward to seeing those. Thank you!