It was so helpful that you talked about which increase “use” a stitch and which don’t. I’d never thought about this or it’s impact on a pattern before.
This is possibly the most helpful video. I came across a pattern and as a beginner in knitting I was wondering what the differences were and how it looks in comparison. This just cleared everything up. Thank you
I am so gratefull for your kind, clear, and complete explanations. My knitting as a beginner is constantly improved by your advises. Be proud: you make me very happy and relaxed about a thing I used to fear ;}
I design my own patterns, and you answered a question I constantly run up against---how to increase (at the shoulders of a circular item) without making the front or back longer on one side than the other. I've only been knitting about fifty years and I'm still learning. Your tutorials are so clear, concise and probably my favorites to watch.
You are the very best knitting instructor ever! So helpful and clear, perfectly explained and demonstrated - I love all your Slow Motion videos and all your regular speed videos - whenever I need assistance I only look at yours now for everything! Thank you SO MUCH!! Ann from UK!
Great instructions, easy to follow too. I've been knitting for around 10 years, but have only ever been brave enough to make scarves, bags etc & have always been afraid of other more complex stitches & patterns. Not now. Your clear & concise instructions have made it possible for me to make sweaters & other clothes for my grandsons. I will definitely be following you on you tube for all my knitting tips. Many thanks x
This has become my “go to” video for increase stitches because of the excellent comparison of 3 types. My one suggested improvement would be visuals to identify the 3 (just numbers). That would make it easier to scrub through the video to find a specific stitch. That said, this has been very helpful so thank you! 🙏🏻 (And, yes, I have returned here several times because I am not an expert knitter so I am in need of review/refreshers on how-to between projects! 😝) 👍🏼
Thsnks, that was really brilliant to see them side by side. Also, thanks so much for not yelling. Non-Americans can find US RU-vidrs very loud, but this was very relaxing 😊
Many thanks for publishing a clear concise guide. I don't knit often enough to keep these stitches in my head. Appreciate being able to look them up when I need them!
Yarn Over 1:21 KFB 1:50 M1R 2:15 M1L 2:44 IMHO, this video is MUCH better for the Make Ones as your filming was better quality and much closer up. So Just watch here a few times.
Thank you so much for this video, as always your videos are so clear and easy to follow! I prefer your videos to all others! I must say that I am mesmerized by your hands, they are so beautiful!! If you ever need a second income, hand modelling is for you…😍
Thanks a lot for this great and helpful video! I actually discussed different increases about a week ago with a knitting friend and am now thankful to show her this as an explanation what left and right increases are. As a continental knitter I often find it difficult to follow some more complex stitches you demonstrate because I'm not really familiar with the english knitting. So it would be great if you could show a continental version of the more complicated things you demonstrate in the future.
Thank you for adding the explanation about the difference of kfb using up a stitch. I'm new to knitting and was planning to use kfb with a shawl pattern I found instead of what the pattern calls for (m1), and now I know to account for that! Great video!
Tyler Pittman I am 95% sure those are part of the Knitter's Pride Symphony Dreamz's set. Beautiful laminated birchwood needles. I'm as sure as I think I am because I use them myself and they are fantastic. Not only high quality, but KP cords are just phenomenal for both regular and magic loop knitting, and the needles themselves are this glorious slickness somewhere between average plant-based needles (like bamboo) and slick, treated metal (like Addi's); so not sticky, but not fly-off-the-needles slick either. I am obsessed. And to seal the deal, they're crazy, crazy affordable for an interchangeable set. I feel like I'm *this* close to reaching advanced knitting status, and I still think they're exactly what I want. Definitely check them out.
Thank you for this video. I have learned so many techniques from your videos. VeryPink is my go to site for everything! I did not know why certain patterns had KFB or M1, now I know. Thank you again!
I don’t know if you are still on RU-vid reading comments because you haven’t posted since early last year, but your videos have helped me so much and I wanted to thank you. I just hope you see this
I post a new video every single week! New video every week, still very active on my channel, checking comments and responding to them multiple times a day.
My Gosh! I have been doing the Make one left and right very wrong all this time.. lol.. I would pick up a stitch in between the stitches and always made a gap.. Thank you sooo much for clarifying this for me.. :)
Thanks for this video on increases, and for the companion video on decreases. Makes things wonderfully clear and do-able. Increases :-) my stitch toolbox and greatly helps my understanding of patterns. Once again, great instructional videos, helpful indeed. Thanks Staci.
Thank you for this very helpful video tutorial. I found this very informative, as was the decrease video you posted last week. I was wondering if you were planning on producing a video which matched increases and decreases? For instance, if I were making a blanket using M1L and M1R as the increases, which decrease method would you pair with it? Being a new knitter the answer is not obvious to me and I would appreciate the insight of an experienced and talented knitter such as yourself. Crystal
Crystal Kopec - thanks for the note, and the suggestion. I personally like to keep things simple, and I rarely find a need to use an increase or decrease other than the six (three incs, three decs) I've shown in these two videos. If I was matching up M1 stitches with decreases, I'd use k2tog and ssk. Really, they're the nicest looking, easiest to work, easiest to remember, and good for just about everything.
I’m a little confused. When you knit make one right or left, it appears that you do the exact opposite of what you say ie; back to front and front to back, I watched 4 times. Can you help me figure this out? Could you help me in any way as I’m going to be using this increase soon. Thanks so much.
Thank you for this video, Staci. I am trying to wrap my head around the theory of knitting and wonder if the increase you choose (particularly m1r, m1l) depends on the direction you're working (i.e. if a garment is worked top down vs. bottom up)?
Thanks for the quick response, so instance... Thank you so much❤️ Judy Graham and you, I respected in the World of knitting. Love and God bless you all in the Name of Our Lord Jesus Christ. Amen❤️ A million thanks 💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
Have you heard if the twisted yarn-over increase? It ends up looking similar to the Make 1 increase but is a bit more invisible because it doesn't mess with the tension of the surrounding stitches as much. It has both left and right-leaning versions and is worked in a similar way to Make 1 increases, but it takes two rows to complete rather than just one.
Thank you so very much! I've been having some trouble in deciding which increase to use in other kinds of stitches like the seersucker for example. Is there any increase that is better for this?
Great video, as always! But I'm surprised you didn't include the raised increases. Those are my goto increases when I want truly invisible increases. Maybe you cover them elsewhere?
I was at the Goodwill Thrift store & I found a package of knitting needles that r of different sizes. They r the 1's that have the part that has the plastic cable that can interchange with each other. I paid $2.99 minus my senior discount. I think that it's everything. It came with the case.
Thank you for the tutorials, they are super helpful to a beginner like me who has taken on a bigger project that I was ready for! (thankfully the sweater is for my dog who doesn't care what it looks like!). I am assuming that lifted increases are similar to kfb in that you need to account for the stitch used in the pattern? The pattern I am using is very simple, just says increase on both ends of the knit rows, so I have been working the increases 1 from the edge... again the puppy isn't too concerned how it looks but is that the best place to add the increase? thanks
If I want to only increase say every 2nd or 3rd row, I guess the M1R/M1L version is best? I want a dress to flare a bit and the wool is mottled grey... Do I only increase at the sides or also in the front in back?
Staci, could you some time give a demonstration of how a M1L and a M1R look when paired on different sides of the fabric? For instance a M1L on the right hand side and an M1R on the left hand side compared to M1L on the left and M1R on the right.
when increasing a sleeve by one stitch for example,does adding that stitch on the sides or in the middle make a difference?which is best?great channel,i subscribed
How do you M1 in YO? Thank you for sharing your expertise 🌹🌹🌹 Eyelet row (RS) K1, P1, K1, *YO, K2tog, P1, K1 rep from* to last 3 sts, YO, K2tog , P1 INCREASE row (WS) K2(10) , *M1, K1; rep from * to last 10 sts, pm beg with a P1 rib to end .....
Is M1A and M1T also an increase and does it look different? This is what a pattern I'm making at the moment.So is M1A the same as M1L? I'm just not sure which one to replace with. Thank you for all you do to help knitters like myself.
I'm not familiar with those increases...designers can sometimes use different abbreviations for stitches. I recommend contacting the pattern designer directly for clarity.
Does it matter if you use knit front back, along with knit back front? (KFB, KBF, if there is even any such thing?) Meaning do they need to be mirrored to look nice?
I don't think you need to mirror kfb with anything to have it look nice - you get a distinctive purl bump with this increase, but when worked on the two sides of a marker, it looks good.
It can be done on either side, in this video, I have increased on the right side of the work. Please follow your pattern for where the designer has placed increases.
I removed 6” from the bottom of a sweater (including the ribbing) to shorten it. I now want to just add the ribbing, k2p1. Would I increase the first pattern row, on the right side or back, and which increase stitch would be preferred?
It isn't necessary to increase before working sweater ribbing, but if it is necessary for your sweater, just make sure the increases are spaced evenly, and you like the way it looks.
Once again, clear and concise.. Thanks Also, I know you have told folks before, but I cannot find the info. The little wooded "pin" that you are using to point with.. where could I find some like that? Probably also would need the real name.. haha.. Thanks!
Karen Kimbler - thank you for the note, and sorry! I always try to include links to everything I show in the video in the video description field, and I missed that one (it's added now). The bamboo marking pins can be found here: www.amazon.com/Clover-Bamboo-Marking-Pins-pkg/dp/B003D7C83E/ref=sr_1_2?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1438473030&sr=1-2&keywords=clover+bamboo+marking+pins
My instructions say to do a M1P which is to make one purlwise with “the left needle lift the running strand between stitches from the front to back then pearl into the back loop of the strand” This doesn’t match any video instructions I’ve seen I am so confused. Can you please explain this increase that I’ve been instructed to do? Why is it called an M1P?
This is such a useful video! May I ask what kind of increase is best if a pattern says to increase one stitch at the end of each row (for widening jumper/sweater sleeves for example)?
omg, that was a very good question! And thanks for your response! I working on a baby sleeper and that is what is said to do for the sleeves, so i got on you tube to find how to increase...after watching this great video, I was going to use M1R....now i will do KFB
What is the best increase stitch when a pattern wants you to increase, say 30 stitches evenly through the row? Because in that instance, I am not sure the direction of an increase matters?
I'm left handed so in your swatch using M1L and M1R, would I do M1L k2 M1R or like you do the M1R k2 M1L.... what order would come out right for the increases in a top down neck line?
Being left handed won't make a difference - especially if the only difference is that you hold the working yarn in your left hand, but still knit on to an empty needle in your right hand. (Knitting on to an empty needle in your left hand is called "mirror knitting", and sometimes does change patterns.)
I have an old pattern with the title being " Fan-Stitch Shawl"; it is a baby blanket. I have knitted 100 rows and am now ready for the next row and it states to (k 4, * inc 1 st in next st, k 9. Repeat from * across, ending with inc 1 st in next st, k5--place a marker to indicate right side of work (110 sts). My question is which type of increase should I use? The next row is the pattern row.
+j glaze - you can ask the pattern designer for advice, but it's knitter's choice. Do you want a right-leaning increase (M1R) or a left-leaning decrease (M1L). Or if it doesn't matter, just choose one and do it throughout.
A toddler sweater states: inc,k1, slip m ( marker), k1, inc1. I’m not sure what method or what stitch to “ inc”. Could you possibly give me some ideas? Thank you.
You can use any increase you like - keep it simple, by using kfb (knit front/back) increases at both spots, or mirror increases (Make 1 Right on one side of the marker, Make 1 Left on the other side). You can contact the pattern designer if you want more direction specific to your pattern.
When a pattern says increase each end of next and every following fourth row do you count the increase row as row one then increase in fourth or do u increase then knit four and increase in fourth hope this is clear ty for it help in advance
I do always spell out the exact stitches when I'm teaching a new stitch combination (like a lace stitch or something). This particular swatch is just stockinette with a garter stitch border, and mirrored increases worked as I demonstrate in the video.