You talk about reducing costs because you can buy D76 or order it locally. Many of us don't live in the USA but in countries where we cant even order D76, so this video has made it possible for us to make it in the counties we live in where D76 is not available any loner. Thanks a million for all the wonderful tips!
Just discovered this channel and subscribed. I offer a tip and a nerdy correction. Tip: When mixing any developer based in part on metol as a developing agent and sodium sulfite as its primary preservative (that is, many modern developers), you start by dissolving a "Pinch" of the sulfite in the water before mixing in the metol. Reason: Water holds significant dissolved oxygen, which immediately starts oxidizing the metol as it is added. The little bit of sulfite will chemically bind the oxygen and prevent that oxidation. On the other hand, you cannot add all or a larger amount of the sufite before the metol, as metol will not dissolve in a sulfite rich solution. Nerdy Correction: D-76 will partly decompose and increase contrast and grain as it ages, however this results from decomposition of the borax, which is not a stable compound, not from the hydroquinone. While I moved on from D-76 about 40 years ago, it is a superb developer. I would minimize its aging issue by mixing stock in smaller amounts, then using it diluted 1:1 or 1:2 as a one-shot and toss. Then discard the remaining stock after 6 months or less. One big advantage of mixing your developer from scratch is that many alternatives use many of the same chemicals. You can mix and experiment with a dozen or more modern developers, film and paper, as well as fixers, from no more than a dozen chemical stocks. Many of those products are not available commercially, so DIY is the only option.
Awesome! I have heard of adding a pinch of sulfite before. Just never did it in practice. Thanks for the reasoning. I will def do it from now on. I mainly use D76 for tmax 100 in 4x5. So I usually just mix the d76 fresh to make it consistent. Thanks for all the insight!
This is great in countries where it’s difficult to get readymade chemicals but you still wanna process film. For eg in India these raw chemicals are readily available everywhere. Thanks for this.
Fantastic video! Making darkroom chemicals from scratch is a pipeline dream of mine and it's so great hearing people talk about it. Loving the channel, each video is better than the last and it already started so good!!
I was looking at another show composing D-76 developer. One thing the host did was put a scant of Sodium Sulfite into the first to keep the metol from partially oxidizing. Afterwards, the Metal was than dissolved followed by the Sodium Sulfite into the solution.
Yea,I have no idea if it’s significant in keeping the developer up to peak performance for a longer length of time. But, I’m going to try it anyway. Thought you might like to muse on it and either try it out yourself or just ignore it. I just want to delve into mixing. There have been times when I wanted to develop film on the weekend, after coming home from a field trip, but I was afraid to use an old batch at the bottom of the bottle and having no developer in reserve. Now I can make it, cool it and use it. From what I understand, the film and paper developers made from scratch can be used once cooled, rather than having to wait 24hours for the chemicals to go completely into solution before use.
Thanks for this walkthrough! I have been wondering about mixing myself - but figured also that there was little money to save by this, but as you say - you always have it on hand ready to mix.
I use beam balance scales, had them for around 35 years, work forever, no batteries to go flat or get a little inaccurate just as they are about to stop delivering their normal nominal rated power voltage. You may wish consider the Paterson chemical stirrer as an option over the mixer you have. The Paterson mixer has a flat bottom that enables one to crush chemistry into smaller pieces so it can go into solution quicker. Buying in bulk, I buy Sodium sulphite in 20kg bags, about 30% to 35% cheaper that way; I do use it a lot so it doesn't last that long. Possibly the best reason for mixing from raw chemicals is that it allows you to mix up exactly the amount of chemistry you require; in other words, no wastage.
I will have to look into the Patterson stirrer, sounds interesting. I have always meant to buy a hot plate / magnetic stirrer but just never found it completely necessary. Definitely want one but also do not have counter space for it to sit... Same reason for no triple beam. want one just not sure where I would keep it. Great reminder to change batteries often. I do have a calibration weight set and should have mentioned that in the vid. I should get bigger amounts of Sulfite for sure I go through a tone. I think I have been buying the 5lb. containers... Where do you order in the U.S.? ( I am assuming from the KG prob not.) Thanks for the info!
I have used a triple balance beam chemical scale for decades to mix photo chemistry, including B&W, C-41 and E-6. Years ago, the significant cos of a good scale was the primary barrier to DIY photo chemistry. Today, technology advances include simple digital scales, often available in office supply stores for postal metering costing less than $20. When I retired and closed my office a few years ago, I had one of these scales left over. I tested it as an alternative chemical scale. I concluded that they have range of weight capacity and an accuracy resolution, and consistency, to make them more than adequate for the purpose, and much faster working.
My ohaus electronic scale is on his 15th year, haven't got inaccurate just yellowed a bit, can store it on a small space, I charge it about 4 times a year the batteries needed replacement only once in 15 years. Yet it measures down to 10mg and can go to 1mg with a carbon fiber lever I made. I don't get the dislike for electronics and digital from some analog photographers.
One potential disadvantage of mixing your own D-76 is that the classic 4-ingredient formula, at least, tends to gain activity over the week or so after mixing (it's an oxidation effect that results in increased pH, but I don't recall the exact reaction). That is, if you mix a litter of D-76 and use, say, 250 ml as soon as it's cool, diluted 1+1, to develop two rolls of 35mm film, store the remaining stock solution in a partially full container, and use another 250 ml a week later for the same type film exposed the same way, the second batch of negatives will have slightly higher contrast. If you're not a pretty structured darkroom worker, you might well not notice if you don't do your post at the same time, but if you find yourself printing or scanning all the negatives together, there's a good likelihood you'll be able to see the difference, either in needing different contrast filtration for printing or in needing to change scan software settings from one batch to the other. The second formula you give in the description is also known as D-76H, and doesn't have this issue -- but it also doesn't work exactly like standard D-76. Commercially packaged D-76 (or ID-11) has other ingredients that prevent this activity change early in storage, as well as sequestering chemicals that might be in your tap water that could affect the developer (calcium, for instance). Mixing with distilled or dionized water will avoid the latter. BTW, from 11:20 or so, it's been recommended for almost a century to dissolve a pinch of the total amount of sulfite before adding the metol. This avoids two problems: first, metol oxidizes very quickly in solution without the preservative, but second, metol doesn't dissolve readily in a solution with a lot of sulfite in it, so you can't just dissolve all the sulfite first. The way i recall it, you'd weigh out your sulfite first (or weigh all the chemicals into small containers like that bowl you have on the scale), then take a pinch (a gram or two) from the weighed portion of the sulfite and dissolve that before adding the metol.
Thanks for the input. It was my understanding that it was the Hydroquinone changing over time and that it was usually pretty stable for a week or two but after that contrast can increase especially on T grain films. Have not tested how much more stable the packaged products are. But would be an interesting experiment 🤔 When I use either version I always use it fresh and for consistent results do not use it after 2 weeks. I agree most people might never notice. 👍
Really great informative video! Ive always heard hydroquinone pronounced hydro - key - known, but I didn't find pronunciation affected my ability to understand the content. Keep up the great work!
That is an easy one, and good one. Flexible in relation to dilution you use. I also make D76 replenisher to use it for longer time. BTW, I am homebrewer too. : )
@@Distphoto Mostly I am using Ilford Delta 100 and I am very pleased with results. I prefer this developer to staining developers. Also with Ilford FP4+, Foma 100 and Fuji Acros II developer does a great job.
Revealing another facet of my checked darkroom past, I suggest that you try a variation on D-23 (7.5 gr of metol and 100 gr of sodium sultite per liter of water) by mixing a separate liter of water with 2 gr of borax or other accelerator agent. This is a two-bath, soaking the emulsion with the first (D-23) bath, then finishing the development in the 2nd bath. It's semi-compensating and if stored tightly, will last a very long time. You reuse both baths. See for more details: unblinkingeye.com/Articles/DD-23/dd-23.htm
maybe you can make a video on checking the shutter speed of your lenses large format and hasselblad lenses. I noticed on one of your video you were using an old shutter speed checker. thanks
Maybe you can try the D-76H divided formula? Then you can use the developer multiple times. You develop in part A and part B separately. Same dev. times for all films.
I have been thinking about trying out some more divided developers. Someone else mentioned Diafine. Maybe for another compensating test. Everything I have read says this is a better way for scanning and can leave the negs a little dull for darkroom work. But I imagine for a high contrast scene might work great. Thanks!
@@Distphoto By reason of how they work chemically, all divided developers are highly "compensating". This means they limit contrast build up during development. The way that works is that the film is first soaked in Part A, which contains the developing agent but not the chemical(s) which activate the developer, usually the alkaline component like borax or sodium carbonate. The Part A soaks fully into the emulsion. The film is then put in Part B, which activates the developer. As development progresses, the developing agent is fairly quickly consumed processing the highlight of the subject, being where most of the silver halide is oxidized to density in the negative. The areas of subject shadow develop slowly by comparison because there is not much silver density to be formed in the negative. As time passes, the developer which soaked into the highlight areas is used up and the process stops in those areas. The developer in the shadow areas is not exhausted and continues to build density in the negative until its chemical process completes by developing all the halide exposed in the shadow areas. The overall effect is that the shadows are fully developed, but the highlights are restrained and limited in the amount of negative density which can build up, i.e., automatically limiting contrast of the negative. Pros and cons: (1) It's practically impossible to overdevelop, since in the end you lose all control over the amount of contrast developed. (2) There is no "push" or :pull" option. (3) By separating the active ingredients of the developer, the two parts last nearly forever (4) Developing times and process are "lazy". Part A time is however long to soak up that solution. (Absolutely no "pre-wash" here.) Forget your film in Part A? No one cares. Likewise, process time in Part B is however long it takes to exhaust development of the Part A soaked into the emulsion. Go take a phone call. No one cares. (5) Because the 2 steps of a divided process "go to chemical completion", temperature of processing is relatively unimportant. Not too cold to impair the chemical process itself; not too hot to melt the emulsion off the film base. I tried divided D-76 and others in my early period (mid 1970s), but the loss of contrast control caused me to drop it in short order. No Zone System with this process.
Gracias por compartir este conocimiento que es muy útil para países como el mío en donde encontrar materiales de la fotografía en film es cada vez mas difícil.
According to the book "Ilford Manual of Photography'' from 1950, ID-11 has double the amount per liter of Sodium sulphite than d-76 , the rest of the components are exactly the same. I suppose it is not exactly the same developer, anyway the formula is old, could be different from the new one.
Hey, thanks for this. Very helpful. I recently rescued some old developing gear which included a couple of envelopes of Kodak D-76 as well as fixer. They are the old "paper" envelopes, not plastic. No best before/expiry dates on them. I'm thinking they are pretty old. Any thoughts on how chancy it might be to use them? I'm a first timer and have a couple of rolls of Ilford 3200 eating to be developed. Thanks, again. Cheers.
So they are “probabally” ok… however I personally would get some fresh developer. Especially since it is your first time. Why chance it 👍 You can mix it up and do a small rebate test to see if it is still active but maybe wait till you have something not as important.
When you buy the bulk powders you pay shipping once. Buying factory developers made in small batches you pay shipping over and over. Shipping has become as (or more) expensive than the price of purchasing small items as one at a time.
Hey, my friend, thanks for the video. Are you familiar with using/spraying an inert gas (like butane) into the bottle so it sits on top of your homemade chemistry before sealing off with a lid? This extra step removes residual O2 from inside ensuring longevity?
Your video is excellent -as usual, About the cost savings regarding mix-it-yourself (MIY) developer; D76 has 4 raw chemicals, but with a 2 chemical Kodak developer formula like D23 -similar if softer than D76- (and perhaps a lot easier for a beginner to start learning how to MIY) the savings per liter -- or, gallon! -- become clear. Also, I wonder: In your comparison to buy the equivalent quantity of packaged D76, did it take into account *repeated* purchases (thus *repeated* payments of shipping?)... Lastly, I've always heard 'metol' pronounced as "MEE-tall (rather than 'metal'), and as a kid -because I have a propensity for stupid plays on words- I used to call it, "You short". Dumb, but at least a good memory aid for the pronunciation!
Thanks, glad you liked it... I looked briefly and was surprised that it was not significant in how I looked. I believe I get free shipping ( VIP 360 - expedited etc..) from Adorama. And from Photographers Formulary the shipping costs are a bit higher. I think it might depend on how much you buy etc... I think it is valuable to have this stuff on hand and that is the biggest benefit for me. I think I mispronounce a lot of things... but if it makes sense in my head I'm ok with it :)
@@Distphoto Thanks for the reply (have just seen it, so, sorry for the lag in responding!). Yes, I agree that -for those of us who mix up various chem formulas - it's good to have enough -and several types- of reagents in stock. But I assumed that your message was aimed at those who haven't necessarily done their own mixing before, so I was just trying to support the "cost saving" aspect of doing so. .. About pronunciation: no worries! We'll understand once it's written out, anyway! Keep up the good work.
@@Distphoto ECN-2 is the color process for ECN-2 Kodak movie film, currently sold as Vision 3 films, aka Cinestill color films. Cinestill proposes processing in C-41 and that the user eat the nominal color shift from such cross-processing.
No, however the official Kodak formulas for ECN-2 are available on line with a simple Google search. They are similar to C-41, but continue some formulas which pre-date current C-41 - easier and cheaper to prepare. If i recall correctly, there are some variations of bleach offered as well.
Takes me a week to get my chemical orders in. I need this book if i can buy these chemicals and they last so long and are always there ready to mix why not.
That is kinda why I made this video... it just kinda hit me that that is a really good benefit of being able do do this when you need to. And I do not think most people realize how easy it actually is!
Any of the several editions of The Darkroom Cookbook will be a complete resource for formulas plus a basic chemistry education and tips to help mixing chemicals. There is a significant set-up cost doing this for one time purchase of weighing scale, mixing beakers, bottles and related equipment. In the past, an adequate scale might cost more than $100, but modern digital scales can be had for less than $20; they are not as accurate, but consistency is more important than absolute accuracy. You may spend $50 -200 for initial chemicals. If you regularly develop film, and particularly if you also develop printing paper, you will realize savings fairly quickly. Good luck.
If you mix and store in one time use bottles, it is good for 6 months after which is deteriorates slowly. Partially full bottles have NO shelf life regardless of what Kodak says. Mine is mixed from scratch for around 20 or 30 years now and I have done careful tests. Be careful to mix and let stand 24 hours before use or your neg will be unprintable contrast. Cooling forced does not help.
Usually 4 oz filled to almost the top Mix with 4 oz water to make 8 oz to develop one roll of 35 mm in a stainless tank (original Nikor). Amazon or Specialty Bottle Brown tinted glass. Store in dark place. I make a liter at a time, for for 7 rolls. @@Distphoto
Genial, lo malo que comprar los productos a Rusia con el conflicto de Ucrania lo veo dificil, sabes de alguna web alternativa gracias y un saludo desde BARCELONA ESPAÑA.
@@teresashinkansen9402 lo primero que yo no he insultado para decirme capullo y segundo que no hace falta que me des ninguna web ya la encontraré yo mismo ala.
