It's possible you know this already, but in the manual, it says to turn off the flash while the LED is not glowing, otherwise, it will flash even when the ring is set to the "off" position. It's a normal quirk of the camera.
Loaded mine with Portra 400 and it was the most fun I had shooting film ever! 72 shots is so forgiving, along with the size/weight and ease of use in social settings. Lightroom is your friend for cameras like this, some of my shots came out unbelievably sharp and vibrant after some love on Lightroom!
@@exquisitearc8498 I tend to over expose my shots so first thing is usually bring down the highlights and up the contrast. Might also apply a simple s curve depending on the shot. I balance for colour temp based on the film stock (more blue for Fuji and more warm for Kodak). Then I look at vibrancy and saturation - make sure those are representative of the colours. Finally I might sharpen the image if my focus was just slightly off and/or crop the image to frame up exactly what I wanted. This is a very quick run down, obviously it’s a bit more nuanced and relies on me judging what the photo needs a bit more of. Best of luck!
Sorry to be a noob. Just got this for Christmas, after snowing my wife some videos. What is lightroom? Trying to get into novice photography! Any guidance is appreciated 💜 merry Christmas!
Your video is what the tutorial link they provide should go to, covered all the features it seems to have compared to the official which leaves a bunch out
Thanks , Bon, for the excellent explanation of how this simple camera works,and some very nice pics of my favourite parts of Toronto. I read there is a way to get a sharper image by using very high-end film. Am pretty sure it was one of the Fuji types.
Just got one from my friend, and I found your video. Great video, thanks for sharing. Fun fact, my friend said I can use it for my Canada trip, and I'm actually going to Toronto in two days, and that's where you shot your film. Haha!
Thank you for a great video on this camera! I’m looking in to getting a reusable film camera and I’m leaning towards the H35. I’m wondering, when you get your film developed and scanned to digital, are there 2 photos combined in one frame, or do the pictures all get sent as individual shots? PS. as a fellow Torontonian I love all the Chinatown/Kensington shots :)
Hey 👋🏼 I think most photo labs like Downtown Camera will combine 2 photos in a frame. And cool! You should check out Toronto Analog Friends on Instagram 😆 friendly bunch, we do photowalks and stuff
Thanks! For this, I had my film developed and scanned by Downtown Camera in Toronto 😊 once you get digital scans of your photos, you can then post them on your social media
Hello! I just got my h35. Question: can I use this camera without a battery? My understanding is that I'll only need the battery if I want to use the flash. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Your video was amazing! I have a question though, how does it count the photos? I mean, we bought this camera (we know nothing about cameras) and we're not sure if the numbers on the counter measure whole frames or just the "half frame" that composes then the picture. Because of that, we're not sure on what side of the frame we are and If the next photos will be paired with the prior one or the next one. We don't really get the dots between the numbers either. Idk if it makes sense but we don't even understand our doubt anymore hahahah
One count means 1 photo so it’ll count up to 72. That said, the gear ⚙️ in the film counter can’t have all of the numbers printed on it so it skips some and replaces it with dots (e.g., 1 • 4 • 8 … 72)
Hi! Thank you for the video. Can you tell me how big photos can I develop from this camera without losing a lot of quality. For example for a standard, oldschool fotoalbum 10x15cm :)
Fujifilm 400 is now produced by Kodak so it’s probably the same as Kodak 400 😅 unless you get the Fujicolor 400 made in Japan. Either way, they function pretty much the same, it’s just that they have different looks, Fuji tends to be neutral with greenish shadows while Kodak have warm tones overall
Thank you so much ! I found this camera at an island this summer in Greece and I have this I suppose the film was brand new ! When the film will be done I’m thinking exposing them and try finding the owner if there is a photo of the owner!
turning the wheel primes the shutter so its ready for the next button press and shot so if your going to be taking another photo soon you can advance to be ready for that but if your putting the camera away in the bag I suggest not advancing the wheel after your last shot to avoid the shutter from going off in your bag/pocket and then wasting a frame, happy shooting x
Hold up, wait a minute. This one may sound very dumb, but what if I wanted to shoot landscape? Should I rotate the camera and do it potrait so half the film exposure will be landscape?. Edit : nvm, albiet silent for the most part, the photowalk video explained everything for me. Thanks and subbed
You don’t have to worry about each half of a frame. You get a new frame every time you advance the film. Each frame is half a full-frame but are independent of each other when you shoot, (like, you’re not waiting on two frames to finish to get a photo) if that makes sense. You just shoot like how you’d normally shoot
Thanks! Unfortunately, not. The film needs to be developed to “activate” the image captured in it. The film will also remain light sensitive until it’s been developed so you can’t expose it to light until then
@@lutaxd1904 I think if you follow the steps in the instructions, it’s easy enough. You really just wanna watch your temperatures and timing (they have to be consistent).
Hi there - Wondering if someone can help. Apologies if this is a stupid question. I'm hoping to find a digital camera that can produce the look of disposable camera photos, similar to this. I was thinking if I buy an ultra cheap older digital camera this may work? My reasoning behind this is I'm conscious of the environmental impact of film and personally I'd like to use a digital model but I really love the look of film photos - No hate toward film photographers, it's just a personal preference. Is this something I could achieve by doing the above? Thanks in advance
Older digital cameras will have their own distinct look (Like, you can tell when a photo was taken in the early 2000s and they’re very different from from the film look). I don’t think you’ll find a one-to-one mapping of the aesthetic of plastic film cameras with older digital cameras. If you want to use an older digital camera, you’ll have to settle with the look of older digital cameras instead (I used to a have a canon SD1000 which was pretty nice, but will definitely give you MySpace photo vibes haha). Other than that, you can edit your digital photos to make them look like they were taken with a toy camera. Or… this gave me an idea haha. You can try Lomography’s experimental plastic lenses like the Diana F+ Lens that you can mount on a DSLR/mirrorless. Maybe find an old canon dslr from 2009 and slap on the plastic lens and you might get some interesting looks.
@@Bonsees Thank you so much for that information! What’s got me thinking along this line is the “Papershoot” camera that keeps popping up on my Instagram. Somehow they’ve managed to give the feel I’m looking for - but the lack of viewfinder for a $120 price tag is kind of throwing me off. I just can’t figure out how they’ve managed to replicate the kind of photo look I’m going for with a digital device. And I was trying to find another avenue of doing this - but with a viewfinder!
Oh the papershoot camera is actually kinda cute. Have you tried the HUJI app? It’s a camera app so it’ll be a phone thing (which you might not like hence why you’re looking for a separate camera 😅), but I thought their effects look nice
@@Bonsees I really do love the idea of it. I think I’m just a little thrown by the fact the framing of your photo is pure guesswork I’ll definitely look into that app too! Thank you so much for your help
they're quite different besides being both plastic cameras. If you want full-frame photos, go for the Agfa ("normal" sized, 3x2 photos), if you want half-frame photos (double the amount of photos but smaller and a little lower in image quality), go with the H35
Hi! I loaded my film to the Kodak Ektar H35, but when I try and advance the film, the film rewind crank didn’t move. And I pressed the film rewind button 😢 and now I can’t use my new film. Any tips on whether I can reuse my current film?
If the film advance wheel stops, allowing you to take a photo, it’s ok. The rewind button will pop right back out the next time you advance the film. If the film advance wheel just keeps turning and you can’t take any photos, the film didn’t attach to the film take up spool. Just open the back and reload the same film, it’s still good. Hope this helps
I wouldn’t recommend, but if you really wanna do that, take note of how many photos you’ve taken, then rewind the film as if you finished it, but leave the film leader (the starting portion of the film that’s not the same size as the rest of the film) out of the canister. Then if you wanna continue, reload the the film as usual and, while covering the lens of the camera, shoot as many times as the amount you already shot, then shoot the rest as normal. If you don’t cover the lens, you’ll get double exposures. You might get an overlapping frame at the part where you previously ended shooting too
I hope you didn’t open the camera after taking photos… you won’t see anything on the film until you get it developed. Exposing the film to light before processed will destroy the photos shot on it
TLDR: if you want full frame photos go for the F9, if you want half-frame photos go for the H35. They both have similar image quality (the Ultra F9 just wins a bit with it being "full-frame"). The real difference is that the Ultra F9 will get you about 36 photos on a 36-exposure roll of film, while the Ektar H35 will get you about 72 photos (but half the size). This can save you some money. There's also the aesthetic choice, personally, I like how the Ektar H35 looks and it's also smaller. Hope this helps!
Hi! I just got this camera and was trying to test out the flash without loading the film but the flash does not fire but the red light is on. I'm new to film and photography in general so I was not sure if this is normal and if the flash only fires if there's film loaded to the camera?
The flash will only fire if the shutter is cocked, which you can do by having film inside… but there’s a way to trick the camera that there’s film in it, I don’t really recommend it, but if you wanna try, open the film door and inside you’ll see a gear ⚙️ now as you wind the film advanced wheel, turn that gear to the same direction as the wheel and at some point the shutter should cock. I hope that doesn’t sound too complicated. Maybe I should make a shorts for this haha
@@Bonsees ah thank you! I was lowkey scared that I got a defective unit but I got it to work with your instructions 😄 a shorts for this would be awesome though 😊
Hello Bon, thanks for your explanations! How can I know if the pictures that I am taking will be in the same print or not? I want to make dipytchs, but the counter is very confusing.
It’s a bit hit or miss with the pictures being on the same print, but I’ve been 100% successful by making sure I start with the counter on 1, then 1&2, 3&4, 5&6, … will be on the same print. I just make sure to take two photos consecutively. Oh, and for the H35, it’s actually gonna be 2&1, 4&3, 6&5, …, because the film is being spooled backwards. I might have made this more confusing… but hope this makes sense 😅
It really depends on what you’re looking for. Like what I keep saying in my videos, these cameras are for those who want a disposable camera experience, which is barebones, without needing to think about technical stuff. Some people like the lo-fi aesthetics these cameras yield. Sure, there are better cameras out there but they’re also different different to use. I, myself, have older point and shoots which have better image quality, heck I even own expensive ones like Contax and Fujifilm Klasse W. but hey, I still enjoy “wasting film” on these plastic ones because they are different 🤷🏻♂️ if it’s not for you then, it’s not
It’s supposed to take ektar film which is iso100 which matches the camera iso. Any film you use above 100 will be over exposed by 1 stop. So 200 film will be 1 stop overexposed, 400 will be 2 stops. If you use 100 film you will get the best shots. It’s also ultra fine grain which helps the half frame negative create better prints 😊
film cameras don't have iso, that's literally what the film is for... shooting 200 or 400 iso film won't matter in this camera and it won't "overexpose" it. The camera is set to 1/100s shutter and f9.5 aperture. The film will give you the third piece of your exposure triangle, and whether the images are under or overexposed depend on the setting of where you're taking the pictures and the available light. this camera was named ektar just for nostalgia and branding. it has nothing to do with ektar film nor is it supposed to take ektar film to match it's iso.
im using my first Ektar H35 shot with Cinestill 400. I read the same thing @_ buttertigers has mention. We have 9.5 as aperture and 1/100 as speed. Which means our EV should be around 13 - 15 with ISO 100.( Perfect for sunny days ). If I use ISO 400 that will increase my EV around 9.5 - 11. (Perfect for afternoons or nights with a lot of street lights). We are talking about Exposure Triangle. @bonsees can you please confirm if this information is accurate? :)
Those of us who have been raised on cheap film cameras, fixed aperture and shutter speed, know that the third variable of the exposure equation is the film speed, or now ISO. There is no DX mechanism on this camera. You chose the film speed to match the subject light conditions. Generally, 100 speed is for sunny days, 400 speed is for cloudy days, and 800 speed is for indoors, your results may vary. @_buttertigers is completely correct.
I think the reason the flash still fires after it's turned off is because energy is still stored in the capacitor that powers the flash. Over time it will dissipate, but if using the camera immediately thereafter will trigger the release of that energy and the flash.
@@Bonsees -- I have an H35 and yep -- mine does the exact same thing. And it's correct that if the flash (capacitor) is charged, the flash is ready for another shot -- but all of my other various cameras "cancel" that when you close the flash or switch the flash off. So it's a minor oversight when they manufactured this camera, but not terrible. I enjoyed using it and for the most part the 1/2-size results looked about as good as similar full-frame plastic cameras.
Such an impressive little beast! The results you shared really took me back. I might even get one of these down the line and try compose my frames the same way you did back a couple of videos. Also how dare you load Ultramax into the Kodak EKTAR H35 Bon! Such sacrilege 😂
Thanks Brendon! In-camera Diptychs are fun, 10/10 would recommend haha and lmao what do you mean sacrilege 🤪 I should load Fujifilm Pro400H in next hahaha 💀
I just bought this camera along with Kodak Gold 200 and Ultramax 400 after watching your video!! The steps were very clear for me to load the film in and set up the camera
I showed this a bit on my video on the Vibe 501F (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FhE4Vm28XV8.html around 5:08), but always use the flash in-doors and in low light. If you’re outdoors with plenty of light, I suggest using it when your subject is backlit (i.e., the sun is behind your subject) or if the subject is in shadow
Hi! Quick question, since it uses half a frame, does it automatically stop to the second half of the shot once I advance it after taking a photo? I really do want to get this as my first film camera. Hoping for your reply! Thank you!! 🥰
I just developed my roll and got 36 shots only :( seems like when i advanced it, it went onto the next frame, so i never took half frames. Any tips? Am i not understanding it correctly?😢
I first saw that camera in a local store yesterday. It's form and function concept remind me of the 1963 Kodak 104 Instamatic. Minimalist controls in a smaller package than more complex cameras while producing a smaller image size. It lacks the easy load 126 film cartridge, but the built-in electronic flash replaces the old Flash Cube system. Thanks for posting the very interesting video and lovely photos.
all your shots are sooo beautiful! :') 💗✨ film photog is totally new to me, but just a noob question: were the sample photos u showed had any post-processing (?) in lightroom/ps? or were they purely straight out of the cam? i really loved the grains & bright colors, i just wanna know if they really come naturally with film cams hehe. thank you so muuuuuch!
I post process my photos on Lightroom. If you wanna compare my edits to the original, check it here www.dropbox.com/sh/cbv045udj9mgrml/AACiDgGoTMZjCP473MdlynKJa?dl=0
Thanks for your video! When the camera ready to shoot? I took 3 shots and I dont really know if it works because it is still on #1 And how do you know if you make a pair of photos ? Merci :)
It skips a few numbers (something like 1 • 4 • 8 … ) because you can’t fit all 72 numbers in the small gear counter ⚙️ It’s sort of a guess work, I usually just shoot 2 photos consecutively so I don’t forget or mess up the pairing 😅
Fantastic !!! I was waiting for this one. 🥰 My Ektar H35 ( same color as yours BTW ) is still loaded, wisely with an ISO 200 film as I have already seen from other reviews, that 400 is a little bit too much for this camera on a sunny day. A good chance for trying the new Adox Color Mission film. I already took quite a few pictures, but hey, shooting 72 frames seems to take forever … hahaha …
Hi! I’m really intrigued by this camera, & being new to film, I was wondering if you could explain what the portrait default means? Does it make a difference when developing your film? Thank you! Your videos are super helpful! 😄🎞️✨
It just means when you take a photo, it’ll be in portrait orientation (usually it’s landscape). If you wanna take a landscape photo, you’ll have to rotate the camera on its side. It doesn’t affect the development at all 😊
you know how when you take a selfie or pic of someone holding your phone the upright (as if texting, or looking to connect to signal), that would be how the photos from this camera would come out oriented, despite holding the camera how it's designed (laterally) so if you turn this Ektar to how you hold your phone, you should be able to capture landscape images!
Hi! Given that daylight photos are over exposed at iso 400, how do you think it would work for an indoor concert with venue lighting? Would 800 be too much? I've ordered this camera and I'm thinking of doing my first roll at a local gig.
Hmm I haven’t seen someone use this at a concert yet. I think it depends on how bright the stage is and how close you are. I know some folks who’ve used a similar camera (something similar to the Ilford Sprite II) to take photos of a concert and it looked good, but they were in the pit, close to the stage and the camera is “full frame.” I’d suggest using a black and white film like Ilford Delta 3200 if you really want to, it’ll be really grainy but it can be a look You can also test the light of the scene through a light meter app, put the iso of the film you’re using and aperture of somewhere around f/11 (or 9.5 if you can select it). If the shutter speed shown is less than 1/100 (e.g., 1/30) then the photo will be underexposed so I wouldn’t use the camera then Also check if the venue allows for flash, sometimes they don’t. Flash can illuminate a scene that’s within 3 meters ish
hi! question, if I take a photo on a landscape mode it will crop the photo right? so taking photos in a portrait mode is a must to get a fuller view? thanks!
Not sure what you mean by ‘crop.’ If you take a landscape photo, it’ll just be rotated on the film like this www.dropbox.com/s/oryh8xg7yfxp4wc/post%20-%20000069800014.jpg?dl=0
Hey! To get these developed does the film have to be mailed off or can they do it that day? Also where do you take it to get developed? I’ve ran into this problem with my last camera
Depends where you live. If you can find a good local photolab, I’d say go there, if not, then you’ll have to find a place that takes mail-in film development and scanning. I currently go to downtown camera in Toronto where I live (they also accept mail-in)
Hi there! Really awesome video! I recently picked this camera up as something to play around with. I am taking it on a trip to nyc and want to take some photos walking around during the day but also at night at a concert I am going to. The concert is very light heavy in terms of the production. I was wondering what ISO film would you recommend. I purchased iso 200 and 400 b&w film already. I have never shot with film before so this is just something to get me started. Thanks!
Thanks! Going for 800 ISO (like lomography 800/CineStill 800T/Portra 800) for colour, or 800-3200 (Kodak TMax3200 or Ilford Delta 3200 shot at 1600) might be a better option for night concert photos. They usually don't allow flash at those venues, so the higher the ISO, the better chance you'll get of getting good photos, especially since this camera has a small aperture that doesn't let a lot of light in (around f9). Good luck and have fun!
For a beginner to film cameras, which one would you recommend the most? I love the Ektar H35 and the fact that it's a half-frame camera (so more exposures!!), but I'm not sure if the portrait mode of the H35 will bother me. I'm currently looking at Ektar H35, the M35, M38 and Vibe 501F.
Personally, I didn’t mind the default portrait orientation of the H35, but I can see how that could bother someone. The M38 has a brighter flash than the M35, while the vibe is pretty much the same as the M38 (spec-wise). Among these, I’ll probably go for the M38 or H35. Hope this helps
Hi, at 4:26 you mentioned that the default is in portrait, so if I were to take a photo in landscape, would the sides be "chopped off"? So in the viewfinder I should put all my subjects in the middle of the shot so that the main focus isn't cut off? Thank you!
No, landscapes won’t be chopped off, but they will be rotated by 90° on the final image. Check this photo I took as an example www.dropbox.com/s/rn9o4w5g0somvls/post%20-%20000069800004.jpg?dl=0
Please don’t open the back until you finish a roll and rewound it, you’ll ruin the film 😅 if you do accidentally open it, shut it back as quick as possible, you’ll get light leaks but you could save some of the photos. If you can take photos, that means the film is getting advanced which activates the shutter, so I wouldn’t worry too much about the counter per se. The counter on this camera also counts like S • 1 • 4 • … 72 so it moves slowly 😅
hey buddy,. thank you for the awesome video.. it is a bit different to the other plastic fantastic cameras. i would like to see you make a video on a older camera that has a better Q glass lens... maybe a ''cheap'' something you find online or from a secondhand store... PS LOVE THE VIDZ
Thanks, Millad! I’ve been thinking of doing one for my Fuji Auto-7QD. I bought it for $5 in 2019. The prices has gone up now, but you can still find it below $100
Thanks for this video! I'm thinking about getting the Ektar H35 as a "camera to always have in my bag" since it's really small and seems lightweight. I just have one doubt about it: does it have a DX code reader in it? Most articles and videos say to use 100, 200 or 400 but I was wondering if other film speeds can also be used (like 800 when shooting indoor).
It doesn’t have a DX code reader, you can’t adjust exposure settings (aside from the flash). You can use any ISO film from 100 above, so 800 will be fine in-doors (it will be blown out outdoors in sunny conditions though)
The counter resets if the film door is opened/unlocked. Not sure how you stored in overnight but maybe it got poked a bit? It’s probably ok if you can still wind the film & take more photos
Hi I really like your videos. It really help me pick out a camera that I like. I chose to buy the Kodak M35 because I like how your pictures turned out. I have a few questions regarding the film, Can I buy the 200 one instead of the 400 you use? Since the 400 one is quite pricey. I’m also a beginner and dunno what the numbers refer to so pls excuse my language. And also does the film have to be Kodak or can I buy other brands? Thank you in advance 💓 have a great day 😊
Hey, thanks! You can use other brands as long as they’re 35mm (135) film, not just Kodak. As for the ISO, I would recommend 400 for the M35, but you can use 200 on sunny days outdoors. Sadly, film prices had gone up a lot this year, maybe try Ilford black and white films? They’re relatively still cheaper than colour film right now
I love all your review! I've just buy it, and I'm using 200 iso Kodak Gold on it. Is it good for you? Another question is: you don't raccomend use 400 iso in this type of camera? Thank you!
Hey thanks! Not that I don’t recommend 400 for this camera, it’s probably good when it’s cloudy or when using indoors. It just looked over exposed when I used 400 ISO outdoors in sunny conditions
Hi Bon!! I bought this camera and it is my first time using film. I inserted corectly but when i click the shutter, nothing happens. No click, and the frame does not move to next slide. Also the “s” does not change into 1,2,3 etc it stays on S. Do you know how to take a photo? Lastly, how many times you have to roll the advance wheel to go to next frame? Thank u!
Does the film advance wheel stop when you turn it? You have to turn it until it stops, only then can you take a photo. If it doesn’t stop, that means the film didn’t catch on to the take up spool so you’ll have to reinsert your film. Turning film advance wheel should also move the counter forward
Does anyone have any info on why my film negatives came out completely blank?? I loaded it correctly and assumed everything was okay when I dropped them off to be developed and was given a call about them having zero images on them. I used it from October 2022 to this month and lost all those memories 😢
Oh no, I’m sorry to hear 😞 There’s a lot of reasons this could’ve happened, maybe ask the lab if the film looked like it was burnt (exposed to light) or if it looked like it didn’t got shot (blanks).
Hi, my film counter still stuck on “S” after taking several photos, and I think I insert the film correctly. What should I do? If I continue filming, does the photo will result good? 🥺
If you’re able to fire the shutter & shoot, the counter is probably broken, but it’s most likely fine and your photos will still turn out. See if the store you got it from have warranty or get it exchanged if you can
Like the film advance wheel? How many photos have you taken? The wheel will stop turning once you reach the end of the roll (48 for a 24 exposure roll or 72 for a 36 exposure roll)
Hi! I just tried testing my new ektar h35 with film to see if the flash can work then I rewind the film so I can put it back to its original canister. Did I made a mistake? i only took 1 shot then rewind it back.
I am really interested in buying this camera, but I am new to film photography. Can someone help me and explain what would be the best film rolls to use? Like brands and what works with this camera. Would love to take this camera on my holiday
kodak or fuji for colour film, and ilford or fomapan for black and white film ISO100-400 for sunny days outside, ISO400 and above is for low light but really grainy, I suggest using a 400 rated iso film as it'll be good in both situations
Film under 800 ISO are usually fine to go through airport X-Ray (avoid CT scanners though). I’ve had a few go though x-rays and they seemed fine, I wouldn’t let them go through multiple x-rays though (like if you’re going through more than one airport security)
Hi! Stumbled upon your video and I must say that it’s really informative!! I’m new to film camera and I’m considering getting this or the Ilford Sprite 35-II as my first film camera. Which one would you recommend? Thanks!
Go for classic grain film stocks. Like Kodak Tri-X or Ilford HP5 for black and white. You’re a bit more limited with colour film because most are new emulsions nowadays, you can buy expired film which could give you a grittier look, but you can also just stick to Kodak Gold and ColorPlus with warm tones that could look vintage. There are new film stocks like LomoChrome colour 92 and Harman Phoenix that look gritty with high contrast too if you wanna check those out. Hope this helps!
Hi! Im completely new to photography, especially film photography and this is my first camera. Can i switch to another roll if the exposure or situation changes during the day or do i have to take all 72 photos without wasting the rest of the film?
You’ll have to finish the roll of film then get it developed and scanned by a photolab so you can get digital copies of the photos that you can send to your phone
