Great video. I did the same carb swap, looks like the exact same part, but on a Scotts mower. Got it all back together and the choke sticks. I need to pull it all back off and find out what the heck is going on, but until then, just clipped a piece of copper wire to the choke linkage so I can pull it unstuck while I'm sitting on it while it runs. Other than that bs, the mower is back to running like new.
I did the same thing with my mower but now I'm consulting the internet because my engine starts to "run away". Following the choke, the engine starts to scream into HIGH RPM's, enough to blow up the engine (almost happened). I thought it was a loose governor spring but I've seen that the governor only changes while the engine is running. Any idea what the problem may be?
Woke up and went to mow my lawn and the mower was smoking real bad like really bad. So I checked the dipstick and the oil reservoir had gas in it. I ordered one of these and hope it was just a stuck float that flooded the engine. Ever had any problems like that?
It's very common to have gas gas flow back into your crank case From a stuck float pin...when you have too much oil on your dip stick that is usually the case especially if smells like gas
So, I replaced the carb on my craftsman rider. Everything looked just like the video. Put it all back together, but, engine does not start. Will not fire. Spark plug still connected. I put gas back in. Is there a chance I hooked the choke up wrong? The flap should close when I choke it, right? I don't smell any gas. What can I check?
Make sure it's not something simple like a gas shut-off valve closed. Make sure that there is a spark from the spark plug . Then try a little starter fluid directly into the openened butterfly of the carburetor . If it wants to bump over then it's possible that the carburetor solenoid is either not hooked up. Or stuck closed? If it has one they're located on carburetor it's a cylinder at the bottom of the bowl with wires leading to it.
@@JLafix Here is what I did this morning. Could not get it to fire (and I don't have any starter spray here). I made sure there was gas going to the carb. I could also hear the solenoid clicking when I turn the switch on. I still questioned the choke on the new carb. See 'before' picture. Butterly valve was not closing very far when choked. So, I pulled the new carb off and re-installed the old, leaky carb. Engine fired right up. I then put the new one back on. But, this time, the valve seems to be closing. See 'after' picture. It did close all the way, just did not get it in the picture. Maybe I had the linkage connected wrong? Put it all back together and it started and runs. Now, it runs very rough. See video. Thinking I need to 'tune' the carb? There are two screws on carb. Did not want to mess with them until I understand better what they may do. Could use some advice on how to smooth out the running. before photos.app.goo.gl/KpTLEdMUCPTThXPQ7 after photos.app.goo.gl/sui7eB8PxGSHrpAz7 video ru-vid.comL5-V2mp1y6w?feature=share new carb photos.app.goo.gl/22kU9J47WtqhQ9sc9
Looking closely at the choke, I see that when I connect the linkage to it, the linkage cable contacts a bar that limits the movement of the choke. If I connect the linkage on the flap closed side, it starts, but, as you said, it was choking the engine every second or so. If I connect the linkage on the flap open side, it is unable to close the flap completely and thus it won't start since it is not getting any gas. So, I cleaned up the old carb as well as I could. Installed the new gaskets and reinstalled everything with the old carb. Engine started right up and runs beautifully. Now, I just need to see if my leak returns or if the cleaning was all it needed. I have a defective new carb. I don't see how this one could ever work. I will be sending it back for a refund. Thanks for the help. Your video helped me understand how it all fits together. Defective carb with bad choke ru-vid.comayDQTmwJxFE?feature=share
The above carb is different from his OEM. It has a black plastic top on the choke lever and not the flat spring action version on the original Walbro. You can see his original vs the new and the difference. Instead of a spring, it has a metal bar to restrict distance. My linkage arm did not move like the above. I could get it on but it made the choke fully close (on). You might have the same problem. You see how he moved the choke linkage? I could not do that. You'd need someone to manually move it after you choke it. otherwise the choke will stay on (closed).
I always forget which way to go with it But loosen the set bolt then turn the shaft of the governor counter clockwise then re tighten the set bolt. Start engine if it's racing then re do it the other way.
Can some one tell me how long the choke linkage is supposed to be? I just bought one like this and the previous owner straighten them out for some reason.
