I've been watching these videos to try to decide if I need an Arrma. Those 'washers' and bearing are a Thrust Bearing Set and those 'washers' are the Bearing Races. It is interesting that they are used in this application. The Bearing probably allows very precise adjustment to the clutch and stops the Torque from changing that adjustment. It's great how you guys pass around information and take care of each other.
That little threaded insert goes into the opposite slipper hub. It acts like a little lock nut that the screw threads into. It makes sure your clutch doesn't become too loose.
Hey man great video... just wanted to share a little piece of info on an issue I had with mine... Maybe it could help someone... When threading the long screw with the spring...my spring end had little jagged rough spot on it and was hanging up on the inside of the assembly before bottoming out...so even tightening the screw down all the way and backing it out 3/4 of a turn gives you the illusion you have set it properly when in fact it's still slips like crazy...took me a while to figure this one out... Drove me crazy for quite a while...just would like to let everyone know if they are having this issue... Pull out that spring and make sure there is not a burr on either end of the spring... Because it will fake you out pretty quick... figured I would share...thanks for the vids man
That’s great information man appreciate that. Yeah I could imagine that would definitely drive you crazy, I was having tons of problems with mine but after getting it all sorted out and rebuilding the clutch the truck has been operating like a champ now.
@@BarstoneRC that's great man...I love mine...I just got done building a kraton 4s from a bone stock Mega brushed senton... spent some money doing it but man what a fun project..I have more fun driving this one than any of my other trucks...I love how interchangeable parts are between the brushed versions 3s line and 4s line are...this newly built one is a complete blast
Yeah it’s great how nice and easy they are to repair, and that the parts are interchangeable it it’s nice if a part breaks on one car and you can temporarily rob a part from something else to use that car.
@@BarstoneRC Thats the answer I was hoping to see. Glad you updated in the comments. Thanks 2 weeks ago my Slipper was almost completely out. So far it's holding but now I'm starting to have some Servo issues. Trying to adjust things but all out runs are not a great idea.
Really good job showing how to rebuild the slipper clutch! I did it on my Kraton 4s too and i am in honeymoon with it again....But....I did bought the stock pads kit and i also bought the aluminium pads from Hot Racing (Part #ATF15HN 3x for the 3s and 4x for the 4s) which i've installed instead of the cheap plastic parts and the clutch feels alot more consistent and the Kraton runs alot stronger....and maybe faster.I did the standard adjustment, to try to keep the stock diffs alive...The kit is alot more expensive, but i am pretty sure that the aluminium pads will be more efficient and more durable on long term use. It feels night and day on rough terrain as the clutch feels to send the power to the wheels more effectively and it doesn't feel like everything wants to strip or explode under the power load. The kit worth a try and i hope for the best on long term too.
Finally, a week or so later and about an hour and half of playing later, the rear diff died completely stripped out! I should loose the nut on the clutch a bit more. I've enjoyed every second playing with the truck, but i have to make a choice and decide if i'll go for the stock diff setup and loose the clutch's nut or keep it like that and upgrading to all metal diffs ,bevels gears and yokes!
A lot of the problem comes from the differential yolks twisting and it causes the play in the gears which makes it strip out with those hot racing aluminum differential yolks it gets rid of that, after I put those on mine I haven’t had any further issues.
I've recent aquired a Outcast 4s and owning 5 days now . I've run it twice and the rear diff went then the front, replaced both by RC store . Yesterday the rear again within minutes. Could not believe it . Turns out just like yours no BLOODY Spring in the slipper clutch , Must have been assembled on friday afternoon staff at Arrma Factory. So Greatful you made this video . Hopefully can get it resloved tommorrow . and the RC store that fitted the diffs comes to the party and replace FOC.
Yeah it’s bizarre there was some of them that rolled around missing the spring apparently and causes all kinds of issues but I’m glad you sorted it out hopefully she holds together for you now.
Saved so much frustration with watching this video. I’m missing the spring in mine as well. Where it’s at, I have no idea. But was having clutch issues and realized the spring is the issue. Parts ordered. Thanks a bunch brother!
Will do man. Ran across you channel and enjoy the videos. Didn’t know when I subbed a couple weeks ago, this video would be important. But glad I did. Sure I’ll be contacting you more. Love the stickers as well.
Jeezus....I myself realized after watching this video that MY spring is missing too. Been having problems with my slipper clutch as well and I've taken it apart many times. Feeling very sheepish...
I’ve had my Kraton for a month now and have ran 10 plus packs through it with no issues. At first my slipper would come loose after I adjusted it but after adding loctite on the screw and backing out 3/4 of a turn I haven had a single problem. Having that spring in there should definitely fix your problems!
Also if your still stripping diffs I’d recommend backing out least 3/4 of a turn, still puts insane power to the ground. I honestly feel like I could back it out a little more but haven’t had any problems yet
Yeah I have a turned out about 3/4 of a turn I guess and it seems to be running pretty good I guess time will tell, but all of my problems started when that spring vanished out of my clutch. I was running mine for a while today and it was running awesome so I have hope LOL
Bars&tone RC hell yeah man I hope it keeps running great for you. mine has definitely been a blast. Also your content is very helpful and easy to understand, and I can see it being very helpful for people. You deserve more views. Subscribed!
Thanks buddy I really appreciate that. I’m glad you like the videos but yeah the Kraton is a really fun car for sure, I had a blast with it today with it finally running right
That plastic threaded thing goes on the back side of the clutch. You may have to buy a new outdrive pinion gear, the new shorter pinion v3. Or get a nut to fit the screw and that will do the same with loctite!!! The plastic threaded thing you don't!!
Good video son very well explained, I normally do it all the way up and turn it one full turn back and leave it to set , Spot on videos very clear 💪🏽❤️👍🏽🇬🇧
So since I have been waiting for the new diff I have found I need to clean and grease my new sealed bearings and tear down my clutch. Man, this thing needs work even when it hasn't run in a month!
so decided to install the Kraton 4s metal spur gear assembly in my Typhon today since my 4s battery comes in tomorrow so stoked and thanks for the video brother stay safe and take care
I've got the same problem with my big rock. I basically had to thread lock the screw all the way down so it wouldn't over slip. It works like a locked center diff now. Lol.
Yeah I’m not sure what causes this problem all the time? But I tried doing that with just cranking it the whole way in and it works fine but then I start breaking drive shafts all the time so I’m not sure what the happy medium is here?
How i do it is i put the locktite on the rear slipper screw hole than on the threads itself to be sure XD the red stuff is hard to come out but does come out i use red on everything now in little wuantity no trust on blue anymore blue came csme loose on a few parts over time
At least somebody thinks about these things. very well done. I don't see any followup video so did this solve the problem?? Looks great. Hope it did in fact take care of the problem.
Yeah after rebuilding it and using a lot of Loctite on the center screw and I put heavy duty driveshaft on the back of the truck has been holding up awesome now.
Hi. May I know once the slipper screw been tightened up, is the clutch pad/spur gear should not be moving at all? I did my repair & after that the spur gear/clutch pad still moving after I tighten it. I'm not sure if I did this right or not. Can I get some advise. Thks
Well after you tighten the screw up all the way and then back it out one and aquarter turn it should still slip a tiny bit when you’re getting on the gas hard and stuff like that but if it’s crank down the whole way tight you shouldn’t have any slip really.
I’ve had my Kraton 4s since the day it was released, and I too have had slipper clutch problems. I never tore it all the way apart either, till now. Mine doesn’t have a spring either. How does this get assembled at factory missing such an important part?
@@BarstoneRC That’s a possibility they could have broken and come out without us knowing about it. I’m finally able to do a test run and it’s like a brand new truck. It’s never driven this well. So grateful I found your video man!
Not really you have to pull the slipper clutch completely apart to see it and make sure that it didn’t break also. Because attached to that bolt in front of the spring or two tiny roller ball bearings and a spacer
If you strip that out which happens a lot with those they have a clutch rebuild kit for like six dollars or something and it comes with a little insert that goes in the other side where the threads would be that gives you a nut to screw into again. The rebuild kit also comes with a new screw roller ball bearings and spring and maybe a clutch plate?
My Kraton also has the spring missing but I have it set half turn off tight and it seems to work fine but I only get about 15 mins from a 5000mah pack driving hard and my motor is too hot to touch for more than a second afterwards. Do you have any idea what could be causing this or is that normal? This is my first and only rc so any help appreciated 😊
Yeah at first mine seemed like it was working OK but then it kept loosening up and then I would tighten it too much and it would ruin the rear differential. So from my past experience I would get the clutch rebuild kit they’re only a few dollars and it comes with the new spring. But as far as the overheating problem if it’s not going into thermal shut down and the fan is running it’s probably normal they do get pretty hot. Yeah racing makes a fan for the motor that pushes a lot more air than the stock ones to help cool it.
Bars&tone RC Ok thanks for the advice I will order the spring, and no the motor has never shutdown I didn’t realise that was a thing so it must be fine. Anyway thanks for the help from the UK 🇬🇧 👍
Well The big problem is that the spring broke and I lost it apparently inside the clutch and that’s what started all of these problems with the clutch in the rear end.
Bars&tone RC surely having it completely tight with the spring is the same as completely right without the spring and I should probably loosen my slipper clutch a bit
No because when it’s completely cranked tight without the spring in there you’re now smashing down the bearing and it has no way to rotate or slip so as soon as you start gassing it hard it just rotates the screw back out. I tested it by hand and that’s what led me to realize there was something missing or wrong with the clutch. So make sure you keep an eye on that bearing that is between the two washers in the spring inside the clutch
After rebuilding the clutch yesterday with the new spring and bearing and everything I ran it for about an hour yesterday and the car worked beautiful now.
