I took classes at Cerritos College with Carl. He is an amazing instructor and technician. There’s something special about wood on wood planing. The shaving are thinner and wood surface smoother. My favorite planes in my shop. Cannot wait to see the rest of Carls videos.
The blank needs to be flat sawn with the bark side facing down and the rings of the endgrain running side to side and forming a smile pattern. Any grain runout needs to run downhill from the front toe to the rear heel of the plane. The flat side is more durable than the quarter saw sides. By having the upped grain forming a smile on the endgrain you are placing the stronger outside arc of the growth rings along the middle of sole where the most wear occurs you lengthen the useful life of the plane.
I do agree that you want to avoid quartersawn surface on the sole, but I'll have to take your word for the rest. I have never been too concerned with the grain direction; it can be enough of a challenge to find a piece that's thick and wide enough to make a plane. Adding to that challenge to get the proper grain direction is too much for me. I have typically used dense woods for my planes so the wear has been negligible, although I probably haven't used them enough to really notice. Thanks for your insight.
Mr Carl, Thanks for putting this series together on the making of the Krenov planes. Very clear and concise ! I do luthier work and am in need of making some mini planes for the purpose of shaping down transverse braces after they glued in place. Could you offer any suggestions on making planes in a very diminutive size ? 🙏
You are welcome! After a bit (actually a lot) of thought, I think a miniature Krenov-plane is possible. Check out my blog post for the whole story - carlstammerjohn.com/?p=1109
@@CarlStammerjohn This is great ! Many thanks for taking the time to work this up 🙂 I dont suppose you could give the blade angle and projected mouth opening ? 🙏
@@TreasureCoastUkuleles We might be talking about two different things. I searched the web a bit and found a few comments regarding angles on finger planes, but all refer to normal or high cutting angles. Those can be obtained with a high bed angle on a bevel-down plane or a high bevel angle on a bevel-up plane. 37 degrees would make sense for the blade bevel angle on a bevel-up plane. That would yield a 49 degree cutting angle on a low angle plane (12 deg bed angle). You can't make that plane out of wood; the bed would be too thin. I hope that all makes sense. It was always challenging getting my students to understand what all these numbers mean.
