KTM LC4 filter and oil change. Oilfilter: HF155 and HF156, or original filter Oil capacity: appr. 2,1 l ---- 0,6 l into the frame Larger screw 30 Nm, smaller screw 20 Nm
@@ANTERRO55 nice video ...i ve got 2006 640 enduro and i have to do a oil change this month ...how about performance of these bikes ...mine is in good nick but i was expepting more performance out of it
Getting to it without a bunch of pre- jabber is great. My only "possible" criticism is why wasn't the bolt at the upper frame not loosened before draining? And not a clear view of how the washer seats in the mesh filter? Not a big deal by any means! I just love the non -intro, and going right at it!!! All respect! I know you're a bad ass!
Thank you so much for this video, very helpfull and very detailed! I see that you use a dynamometric wrench, can you tell me please the tightening torque? Or Maybe it's written in the manual of my bike? Thanks
Thank you again. Apparently my previous 640, which got stolen and driven to a tree, had only that 1.5L oil. Engine started to make noises a week after i bought it and previous owner said he just did oil change. Now i have new 640 waiting for snow to melt :)
The upper screw for frame serveds to bleed the system... before screw it back in places... all the rest is OK. I still run a ktm LC4 640 SM 2002 red & black.
Links to the products you used would be nice. Like where to get the gasket or the tq specs for those that don't have the manual. Great video though, should help for my 01 LC4!
Don Karstedt He already did that, but if you're gonna do a vid like this, it helps if there are links to products you use so it makes it a quicker and easier experience for someone who's never done it before. It's like a recommendation on products to use.
Over time, the lid bends slightly. Simply place some sandpaper (200 or finer) on a flat surface, such as a sheet of glass, and lightly sand the lid by hand. Then simply mount it again with the new seal. I hope this helps you
Szia, ha jól értem, akkor először betöltöm a vázba a 6 decit, majd rögtön a blokkba a 1,5 litert és mielőtt visszacsavarom mindkét beöntőnyílást, így ugymond teleolajjal beindítom? Hány másodpercet járjon így? Gondolom nem löki ki az olajat.. mit kell figyelni ilyenkor, miközben jár a motor? Ha ezt az indítózást kihagyom, akkor levegős lesz és azt nem tudja kidolgozni utána? (Amúgy klassz videó! ;) )
Helló. Alsót lezárod, beindítod és nézed a váznyílásba hogy jön-e föl az olaj. Ha jön akkor jó beindult a vákuum. Bevilágítasz a lyukba és ahogy meglátod hogy jön az olaj leállítod, különben kifolyik. :) Ha kész minden járatod egy kicsit és utána ellenőrzöd az olajszintet.
No mention of "Burping" the engine in two places? I do this on my LC4 every time..You can get a air lock and damage your engine..After changing the oil& filters, loosen the banjo bolt with the braided oil line above the flywheel cover, start the engine till oil seeps out, then tighten it, then stop engine, then loosen headstock oil bolt, start engine till it seeps out then tighten..both won't take long to for the oil to seep out, 5-10 secs? This is common knowledge, I thought...
Should have put filter part number in description so i dont have to google it again : HF something something (2 of them). And also exactly how much oil goes in :P
I replaced the gasket with a small filter. I gave a new original KTM, and as you wrote a little sweat. What can I do with this?? at the beginning I will try to seal it a bit from the outsider (silicon)… and at the next exchange it's a seal as you proposed (loctile or something like that) ...
purging the chassis ok, purging the lower part of the engine doesn't make sense: think about it otherwise every time you add oil air would enter the circuit.
